r/Ioniq6

So about 5 months ago my wife's Ioniq 6 popped the "Check electrical system warning" message. Turns out the HV pack failed and was replaced with a remanufactured pack.

Original post: https://www.reddit.com/r/Ioniq6/comments/1pxl9lu/p1ab000_hv_pack_replacement/

My wife charged her car up to 100% last night in preparation for a trip to Spokane to see our daughter. We live about 60 miles north of Seattle. She has made this trip in her car at least 4 times so she knows what to expect, where she has to stop to maintain her personal comfort zone, etc.

Well guess what? It looks like this remanufactured pack has also failed. I can't check codes because the car left my wife stranded 160 miles away at the Tesla Supercharger in Cle Elum!!

The first clue something was wrong was the car was reporting 3.1mi/kW efficiency yet it took 80% of the battery to go only 162 miles so she wasn't going to make it to her normal EA stop. So she stopped at the Tesla SC in Cle Elum at 20% remaining. This is very typical behavior for a bad/weak cell and/or out of balance pack.

The next clue something was wrong was the atrociously poor charging speed. I realize the max speed on a TSC is 97kW but she got a peak of 20kW and settled at 13kW. This is barely faster than our L2 at home. Next clue something was very wrong was the car started reporting something impossible. The SOC was 50% yet the car was saying it would be done charging to 80% in 1 minute. At 13kW. Yeah right!

50%-80% in 1 min at 13kW? Yeah I don't think so.

Very soon after that the car quit charging completely and then popped another "Check electrical system warning." Unlike the last time, this time the car was really unhappy with something because it would not go into D or P. In addition it would not close the contactors to maintain the 12V. I bought my wife a power point volt meter and with the car ON (NOT accessory mode) it would only show 12.01 volts. This is definitely NOT ICCU.

Not what you think it is!

To add insult to injury, there was no Lyft, Uber or even a taxi that could take my wife the 25 miles to Ellensburg to grab a rental car from Enterprise. She was forced to get a ride from the tow truck driver to the tune of $300!!

Thankfully the tow was covered by Hyundai roadside. They have to tow it to the closest EV certified dealer. Which is in Auburn! Bud Clary to be precise. I hope they treat us better than their Yelp reviews indicate.

It always sucks when a car breaks. Things happen. I get it. The thing that pisses me off is that I told my local dealer that I had serious misgivings about the reman pack since historically reman EV packs seem to have issues. The way I see it they had a chance to fix it the first time but they chose to go the cheap way and use a reman pack. Now we are both paying the price for that.

If Hyundai does not reimburse for out of pocket expenses on this I'm not sure what I can do about it other than spend the rest of my days bad mouthing Hyundai on every social possible. I mean can you sue a manufacturer in small claims court? Would a person prevail? No idea and I hope I don't have to find out because Hyundai did the right thing.

Edit: I looked into the Hyundai roadside trip interruption assistance. Turns out this event qualifies by the skin of our teeth. Trip Interruption kicks in at 150_ miles away from home. According to Google maps the distance between our address and the Cle Elum TSC is 155 miles. Talk about cutting it close!

https://preview.redd.it/vzispz7ayl2h1.png?width=1347&format=png&auto=webp&s=9c43700b75abc58a0fe399bdc2be47a36c2488e9

I bought a 2023 from northern California and noticed a moldy odor coming when I turned in the air. I replaced the air filter and everything was fine for a few weeks. Now that it's warming up the vent odor smells like urine. It goes away after a few seconds of the ac blowing, but yuck. Any tips on a permanent solution?

Hey guys, I'm looking for some advice regarding my upcoming road trip from Orlando to Fort Lauderdale. This will be my first long journey in an EV since getting my Ioniq 6, and I have a few questions.

So far, I've only ever charged my car at the free station in my home community. For this trip, I'm wondering:

1. Charging Stations: Are there specific charging station networks that are better or more compatible with the Ioniq 6? I want to make sure I use stations that won't harm the battery.
2. Charging Levels: I've heard that it's best to only charge up to 80% on a fast charger to preserve battery health. Is this correct?
3. Payment Methods: How do I pay at public charging stations? Do I need to download a specific app, or can I simply use Apple Pay?

Any other suggestions for a first-time EV road tripper would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance.

My manual - 2023 Canada - says coolant flush at 200,000 km, then 40,000 thereafter. My dealer charges $1000 CAD for this.

1. why is the interval so much shorter after 200k? Do I really need every 40?

2. does this need to be done by a dealer or can it be done by an independent shop?

3. is this price reasonable?

I drive a lot - over 50k/year, so this is making me question the "EV maintenance is cheaper" narrative.

1000 bucks every year would pay for a lot of oil changes...

Has anyone had luck within the last few months getting a Bluelink subscription transferred after purchasing a used vehicle?

I got mine a couple weeks ago and have gone from no response to a mailbox full response. I know Hyundai has been in the news for crap service times, but this seems extra bad.

How much did you end up owing at lease end? On top of the $400ish lease end return fee.
My ionic6 lease ends in three months and I’m not sure what to get next. I’m under the lease mileage, but a little bit of rim scratches and a couple minor scratches. Thanks

This happened once before Christmas, too. Car is dead, 12V battery reads <3V. Internet tells me anything under 10.5V is a damaged battery - but in December we had the breakdown service out, he charged it up and said it should be OK to go and it obviously held charge for a few more months so I don't know what to believe on that front.

In the short term, I've tried "jumping" it with a small portable jump kit. This allows the car to turn on, but the jump kit will only apply current for something like 20s at a time. Clearly during this time although the car's electronics come on, it does not start charging the 12V battery from the traction battery. Eventually the jump kit discharges, at which point (just now) the battery was reading about 3.25V, but presumably will settle somewhat lower. This seems an unfeasible way of proceeding. The kit charges via USB (at 1.5A only!) so this is effectively charging the battery at 7.5W, requiring (presumably) many cycles before the battery is charged enough to keep the car on long enough to make up its mind and use its vast 800V battery to charge the small one.

We can get the breakdown service to come again and charge the battery again, but I'd like some more ideas. Would it in fact be better to just go to a parts store and pick up a replacement battery? Do I need to buy a proper battery charger anyway, regardless of what I do with this battery, in which case, should I just buy one and try it on the battery in there?

Does anyone know what logic governs the car charging the 12V battery from the main battery - in an ICE car as soon as the engine is turning under its own power, you're good, but this is clearly more complicated.

EDIT: ordered a new AGM battery. I'm still interested in knowing whether it's advised to get a battery charger or whether they make it unnecessary.

I've noticed that you don't normally see many Hyundai Ioniq 6's. I'm wondering why people don't buy more of this car?

I like the look of the Ioniq 6 which is why i'm doing some research before I buy this car.

This is for USA.

Recently bought a CPO 2023 Ioniq 6 Limited this weekend with 25k miles for $27.7k OTD, 29.5k with the CPO Wrap.

I didn't purposely intend to get a CPO but the price was very good compared to what's available on the market right now. The battery and power train are still covered for subsequent owners at 10/100k for used Ioniqs.

The finance manager was very transparent, the cost cost for a 10 year/100k miles $0 deductible Platinum CPO Wrap directly from Hyundai is $1503.

The finance manager sold it to me for $1760, which I think was completely fair and honestly I probably would have accepted even if it were a little higher.

I wanted to share this so it can help others be better informed in their decisions and not be taken advantage of.

The CPO Wrap is also transferrable to the subsequent owner.

If you would like proof I can post when I'm home after work.

Hi! I have a 2024 Ioniq 6 AWD select. Monthly payments are ~550. I have this lease through Aug '27. I would love to get out of it early if possible because my mother-in-law is gifting us her car, so we no longer need the lease. Do I have any options here or am I just stuck with the lease until next summer?

Edit to add: if anyone here is actually interested in taking the lease over, it's the silver version, 15,000 miles. I'm in Westchester County, NY.

For those of you who own the car in a city and park on the street, how is the car with parallel parking? I've read that the Ioniq 6's turning radius isn't the best and was wondering how this applies to street parking. I've driven my dad's ioniq 5 and I really had no issues when I tried parallel parking (honestly more trouble turning into a tight spot).

Was wondering if any owners could provide some insight into this and thanks in advance!

Got my eyes on two I6s and would be a first time EV owner. Do you think the AWD is worth more than the trim upgrade? I currently drive an 00's truck so pretty much anything I buy is going to be a technological leap, I don't need all the bells and whistles, but I just don't know how big a gap the difference is between these trims.

I've heard the AWD is a much more fun car to drive and I believe it would have the heat pump while the RWD does not. I live in MD so it doesn't get too cold usually in the winter where I'm at, but I do have a 150 mile round trip to work when I have to be in the office. I feel like either option should be fine for that drive.

Meanwhile I've also heard they removed a bunch of options between the '23 and '24 SEL models, so a '24 SE is probably even more stripped.

Basically, are there any features on the '24 SE I'm really going to regret not getting the SEL? Or do you think the AWD is more beneficial in all circumstances and it'll just be a better ownership experience when it comes to winter temps and range?

Edit: both those vehicles sold as of this morning, so I guess I'm still looking, lol. Appreciate everyone who has commented so far though!

Sooo i really need you folks, i have been having trouble with this car from day 1 . I need to know if any of you did some range test because mine max i got was 200km in winter and 400km with 18.4kw/100km now without a/c or heat on and dealer is telling me its normal and i drive on eco mode like i have all the time in the world. So example

Highway driving from 100% to empty Ideal condition 100km/h cruise control

Highway/city from 100% to empty ideal condition

Highway driving with A/c 100% to empty

Highway driving with heat 100% to empty

City driving with A/c 100% to empty

Ect ect ect … I need some statistics my fellow redditors please!! I am not getting near 500km or up .. i doubt its even possible . I need proof to show this useless dealer that something is actually wrong with this car .

Intense cracking crackling noise in the headliner… stayed at the dealer for 3 weeks , they said it was repaired, i take the car , 30min later the noise is even worse . Now to add to this , when stoped , you accelerate and it makes a nasty clonkk noise under the car and when you the regen kicks in another clonkkk . Thats me picking up the car after 3 weeks of waiting . The car only have 6000km on in .

Dealer has one near me listed for nearly 17k with 100k miles.

I think this is too steep, it’s a ‘24 SE RWD. I don’t want to fork out the cash for one with less miles but I don’t see too many examples of higher mileage cars for sale.

I’m specifically looking for a 24 or newer any trim if the price is right

Hello all!

My wife and I just bought a used 2023 Ioniq 6 Limited Trim. We absolutely love it. We're still getting used to everything, but it has been way better than anything else we have driven.

Now for our question: is there a way to get a replacement mechanical key? Since we bought it used, the car only came with 1 Key Fob and no mechanical key, since I guess the previous owner didnt give it to the dealer when they sold it.

Side question: is there a way to open the V2L outlet in the back seat without the mechanical key? Or do we need that specific key to open it (we just lost power at home and that has sent me down this rabbit hole).

This is our first car we have purchased, so we are completely new to this. We have a 2008 Honda Accord that my parents gave to me 6 years ago and thats pretty much our only experience with cars.

Any help is very appreciated!