r/JeepJK

As the title says, the 2013 JK won’t start. Turn the key, no clicking, no noises no nothing. Battery is good about 2 years old. Then fast forward 8 hours later, and it turns over no problem and starts over and over. A week later, doesn’t start.
Any thoughts? Is the starter going? Is there a security thing between the key? I have two keys and neither start it when it’s dead.
Has happened like 3 times now.
Recently replaced an oil pressure sensor and O2 sensor and have a EVAP leak due to a loose hose.

I have found different things online from forums and reddit post regarding this. However I can't seem to find what my issue is. I get an ear ache on just my left ear, no one else in the family seems to have an ear ache just me. It is also just in this Jeep.

2016 Jeep Wrangler JKU with a hard top, 102,000 miles.

I have installed kilmat on the floor, DEI boom mats on the ceiling, I have a horizontal bar on the rear cargo area for the hart top (saw it on a youtube video). My Weather strips look good, I replaced the exhauster on the tail gate.

I have birdgestone dueler 255/70/19 tires, where the back driver tire has more wear than the other 3, because previous owner probably changed them at different times.

I seem to develop an ear ache on my left ear, in traffic and side streets. The streets in my area are pretty beat, so its not smooth.

Just wondering if anyone else has had anything like this or have a solution?

I can mitigate some of the pain with airplane ear plugs, and cracking the driver window when traveling below 35 mph. Freeway driving with our traffic is ok on my ear.

Does this look like a JK riddled with issues? Carfax shows two emissions failures in TX and several reports with radiator related work.

https://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/ar20/LNwRqdjpgVoCHrNNO5XnyUfQvwRFcWhwjL7UF77uI6cpxVD68aT1Tnhs5h06RH6tAMDqW3aWYKyel2_IyCEh6oUAP7JqvDMlcsFjmxOG

Non-routine work performed (excluding oil changes, tire rotations, inspections, alignments, etc):

• 01/04/2017 (9,307 mi) — Powertrain control module reprogrammed
• 01/07/2019 (26,121 mi) — Battery replaced
• 03/13/2020 (39,351 mi) — Failed emissions inspection
• 06/22/2021 (57,256 mi) — Ignition lock cylinder replaced
• 06/26/2021 (57,280 mi) — Intake manifold gasket(s) replaced; right airbag assembly replaced; valve rocker arms replaced
• 05/17/2021 (56,179 mi) — Battery replaced
• 02/09/2022 (64,039 mi) — Thermostat replaced
• 12/30/2022 (73,078 mi) — A/C refrigerant recharged; air filter replaced; intake manifold gasket(s) replaced; PCV hose replaced
• 10/28/2023 (82,509 mi) — Battery replaced
• 02/22/2025 (94,774 mi) — Antifreeze/coolant flushed/changed; radiator hose(s) replaced
• 01/07/2026 (99,948 mi) — Failed emissions inspection
• 01/08/2026 — Battery replaced
• 03/05/2026 (100,158 mi) — ABS/TCS module reprogrammed

Hi Al, just hoping someone can assist this is my first Jeep Wrangler and I have waited 30 years for the string but I know that there is a lot that I should be learning and there are tips and tricks especially to avoid spending thousands on unnecessary mechanical repairs. I noticed the other day I had pulled my wiper lover to clean the windshield and the fluid came out, but the wipers did not automatically come on. I had to manually turn them on and then when I turned them off, they would just turn off at whatever point they were at instead of going all the way back down has anybody had this happen? I hate to have to try to replace a whole motor if that’s not it or if there’s a trick to it somewhere appreciate it all thank you.

I have the dreaded c2200 code along with the ABS, brake, and traction control light on the dash.

I don’t really care about ABS so I can live without it but I really want the lights gone.

Is there any way of getting them to turn off?

Thanks!

I want to swap rubicon D44s into my JKU Sport in the future and want to know if thats a good idea or not. Currently on 3.21 gears with 33’s and it sucks. I gotta be on it all the time to keep up with traffic. I can get both front and rear rubicon D44s for 3k and ball parking 1-1.5k for labor. Main reason I choose this over regearing is because by the time I do gears and lockers in the future I will probably end up with the same price but still have a D30 up front which is weaker compared to D44. I definitely use my jeep but I almost never thrash and bash around. The end state would be an overland style rig on 35s. Any insight is appreciated!

I've got a 2018 JK with the 3.6 Pentastar and ~93k miles. I never intended to get to the camshafts but what started as a radiator replacement turned into a timing cover leak fix and viola here we are. I'm not seeing anything terrible on the camshafts other than the one scoring mark highlighted. Nothing I'm able to feel though. I intend to replace the rockers and lifters while I have it open ($300 is a lot less than new cams) but do these look okay to leave as-is or should I replace while I'm in there. For background - I've had this since new. Been religious about maintenance. No codes but it will have a rough idle at times (already have coils, plugs and injectors for it). I did notice a drivers side valve cover leak and the default oil filter housing leak (both of which will be replaced). I intend to keep this for a lot longer and would be open to an engine swap later on because the body is in great shape. Thoughts?

Scoring? Can't feel it though.

Passenger Side

Metallic powder on tone ring for camshaft sensor. Driver's side.