r/NavyBlazer

Frustrated with the search for penny loafers. Vintage Bass Weejun identification and small loafer size rec's.

I'm frustrated. I've been on a search for penny loafers as part of an improvement in my overall wardrobe. I've currently purchased Bass Weejuns and a couple Meermin offerings. The biggest issue I'm experiencing is that I have smaller feet. My Brannock size is 7.5C and nothing I seem to like comes in that small of a size. I'm hoping this isn't too simple of a question and that it's worthy of a full thread of recommendations.

The look that I want is the classic Bass Weejuns Larson. I bought a pair earlier this year size 7M and they were slightly too big. The leather seemed stiff and uncomfortable and I read that the brand quality has fallen off. But I love the style. This is what I want a loafer to look like.

I also tried two Meermin shoes. Both were Goodyear welt. One was the naked kudu on their Nova last in size 7 (UK size, too big) and the other was the expresso on the Ron last in size 6.5 (which is a 7.5 in the US). I found both of these shoes too big, but the shape of the toe on the Ron last was too narrow.

My next pick is the burgundy heritage shell cordovan from Meermin. This is their Sway last, which seems to have a wider toe box, which I would prefer. My problem is that they don't have my size in stock, which I've signed up for notifications of.

I'm frustrated with being the "wrong size" for shoes being made. Like I don't get to be a part of the thing I want. But I know there's something out there for me that'll scratch my itch. So I am looking for help and I'm hoping you folks here have some advice.

  1. I know vintage sizes are somewhat smaller overall than sizes today. Say, a 7 in 1982 would be tighter than a 7 now. If I want a Bass Weejun, is there a specific year break I can look for that would allow me to find ones that are higher quality while being closer to my Brannock size? Additionally, is there a specific guide somewhere, or special search terms I can use on ebay to figure out how to distinguish new resales from vintage Weejuns? Or brand logo changes or stamp differences on the inside of the shoe?
  2. What other loafers that are similar in style to the Bass Weejun style are available in smaller sizes? I'm open to any brand and price point at this stage. I live in Nashville, TN, and don't have the luxury of walking into a major shoemaker in NYC or London for a fitting. So I recognize trial and error will be part of it. I hope that custom shoemaking isn't where I'm going to wind up...

Any help in my search is greatly appreciated. I'm at my wit's end here.

reddit.com
u/Baron_Boroda — 13 hours ago

Vintage Tie Brands We Should All Be Hunting Ebay For?

I managed to secure a Bank Teller job in the late 90s at 17 and my uncle, a long time banker and then mortgage broker, gifted me a few dozen ties from his very large collection as a 'congratulations and welcome'.

Back then the significance of the YSL, Perry Ellis and Nordstrom in house (all MiUSA, France, Italy items) that had been bestowed upon me was lost. After graduating college I shifted into another industry where business casual was the standard and I *gulp* gave everything to Goodwill. A treasure trove gone, pearls before swine (young me).

In the years since I've rebuilt a decent tie collection of old Perry Ellis, YSL, Brooks Brothers and the like, mostly from eBay, but occasionally a vintage store or traveling (a Harris Tweed tie from Scotland!). Earlier I found myself thinking back to one specific gold YSL tie that was particularly handsome, lamenting it's absence and that I won't be able to pass it on to one of my sons, yet hoping some stranger looks dapper to this day because of it...

And that got me thinking about this sub that I mostly lurk in, about what you all like to hunt for when it comes to tie brands and about which may get slept on. What are some of your favorites?

In addition to the names above, I hunt Drake's, but the name is well known, so the prices are typically higher. I've shopped J Press, but have yet to add a tie. Anyone have other brands they like? Or similar collections from their Uncle/Dad/Granddad where they were wise enough to hold on?

reddit.com
u/MostlyJustOK — 1 day ago

Vintage Brooks Brothers Navy Blazer Fit

Hi guys, I don’t mean to hijack the sub, but I trust your advice more than any other source. My final request (for awhile anyway) is advice on the fit of my recent eBay pick up of a Vintage Brooks Brothers “346” Made in USA Navy Blazer. Any advice on fit and what needs to be altered, would be great. Thank you all for your critique on my O’Connell’s suit fit from yesterday, much appreciated.

u/xpulse101x — 1 day ago

Black wingtips as dress shoes?

I have the Allen Edmonds McAllister black wingtip. Would it be appropriate to wear this shoe with a navy or charcoal suit? What’s the trad view of wingtips? If not these shoes, what kind of black dress shoe should I wear with a nav or charcoal suit?

u/Various-Selection691 — 3 days ago

O’Connell’s Suit Fit (Renewed Post)

Hello again! I posted yesterday asking advice on to whether tailor or resell an O’Connell’s Worsted Wool Suit I picked up at a bargain. My pictures and stance were terrible, so I had my lovely daughter re-take pictures of my full suit. The trousers are too cropped and need to be taken out, so hopefully you can still judge the fit as is. My main concern is the jacket, where I think might be too big. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Here’s the link to my previous post. Thank you! https://www.reddit.com/r/NavyBlazer/s/djvHraFIjV

u/xpulse101x — 2 days ago

Vintage Brooks Brothers, Worth altering?

Hi all, I recently picked up a vintage Brooks Brothers 346 suit. It’s in a lovey Grey Herringbone. unfortunately it’s a bit large on me and I was wondering if it’s worth altering considering the complexity of the pattern? Many thanks.

u/HHHornblower — 3 days ago

Interesting Find

Hello,

Posting here with the hope that I can gain some insight as to the origin/history of this find.

I donated some items at a local charity shop recently.

While I was waiting for my turn in the queue, I decided to take a quick browse.

I came across this wool herringbone piece and decided to purchase because it fit and the label seemed interesting.

Can anyone wager a guess as to the approximate age of the piece? It is a keeper but curiosity has the best of me at the moment.

Details:

Item: Wool Herringbone Sport Coat
Brand: Gant for The Prep Shop Jacob Reed and Sons Philadelphia
Misc: Leather Wrapped Buttons; Dog-Approved

Cheers!

u/Cake_and_Coyotes — 3 days ago

O’Connell’s Worsted Wool Suit Fit

Hi there. I picked up this O’Connell’s Worsted Wool Suit on eBay for an absolute steal. It’s my normal RTW size, at 42R, but I’m unsure of the fit. I’ve been mostly used to cheaply made slim suits, and I’ve been looking to upgrade to a well made American Sack. Apologies for the bad photos, I threw on the jacket over my work clothes and added my Alden’s. Given the price, I have room to spend on alterations or resell it and buy a better fitting suit. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

u/xpulse101x — 3 days ago

What to get from J Press?

I am a Brooks Brothers loyalist (i know their clothes aren't the most authentic or adventurous but I buy it since it's actually very affordable when on sale) and am looking to get a nicer OCBD or chino or something that you can't get at BB. I am interested in trying out J Press, especially after Carlson took over and there is a sale right now. What is still unique and good quality there nowadays? Maybe I should look at their knits instead of OCBDs? I am looking for something that would be a step up or not available at BB.

reddit.com
u/NondualEamesChair — 3 days ago

Look what you made me do

When I had a tuxedo made for a wedding, I decided to go with a classic style with very high waisted full cut trousers. It was a particular classic look for a particular classic garment that I didn’t expect I would like or want to wear in anything other than the tuxedo. I was very surprised how good it looked and felt, and now I can barely wear my “regular” low and mid cut pants anymore.

For obvious reasons, I can’t really walk around in a tuxedo every day, so I’m now on a mission to build out a more casual but classic and elevated wardrobe. I’ve gone down quite the rabbit hole researching brands, cuts, fabrics, construction etc and this sub and other resources like YouTube have been really helpful. It’s been fun but surprisingly difficult to find reasonably priced, well made stuff. Ordering online hasn’t really worked for me so I decided to just go to suit supply and build from there.

Pictured is what I picked up from there today: stupidly high waisted full cut pleated linen trousers, double breasted navy blazer and a custom shirt with a special collar, paired with a pair of Meermin horsebit loafers. Overall I’m pretty happy, some minor nitpicks would be

* it took some convincing to get the rep to go along with just how high and full I wanted the trousers
* the pleats are kind of underwhelming, I wish they were more dramatic
* I have a pet peeve about jackets not entirely covering my seat, this one does but I wouldn’t mind it an inch longer in the back
* I don’t love the way the jacket comes “out” in an hourglass shape when it’s buttoned with only one button. I may button both to cinch it closer to me all the way down even though that’s a bit frowned upon

But none of them take away from my enjoyment, I can fix them with the next garments, and I still felt like a million bucks walking down the street wearing this outfit and drawing stares. Next, I will be getting a brown tweed houndstooth sports coat and pants.

When I say stupidly high waisted pants, I really mean just that. A lot of “high rise” pants aren’t really that high at all, not even getting close to the navel or actual natural waist. These pants come to well above my navel. I haven’t measured the front rise yet, but it’s significantly longer than even Kit Blake front rise. I have short legs and a long torso, so with the crease line, this visually elongates my legs and harmonizes my proportions. But it’s not for everyone, and if you don’t like or look good in that cut, don’t wear it. But I do think more men should at least try it.

Anyway, thank you r/navyblazer for helping opening my eyes and sending me on this journey to elevate my style.

u/bedobi — 4 days ago

Beijing Menswear Guide

Hello, I've been living in Beijing for two years and figured I'd put together a little guide on where to shop.

Bespoke/MTM

This is China's specialty, but for every half-decent tailor, there are 50 places that will make you a low-quality suit for $150USD. My suggestions:

Brio

The most highly regarded tailor house in Beijing (and maybe China). The prices are eye watering ($2000+ for a bespoke sport coat), but if you have the money it's worth the trip.

Xianxianshengsheng (先先生生)

They make a lot of bespoke clothing for Chinese celebrities, and come in at a lower price point, around $800+ for a bespoke suit.

Principle M

Well known online tailor, but their physical location is in Beijing. You can check prices on their website, they're around the same as 先先生生

Moonland (木兰)

Another midranged tailor. If you like wider cut, more traditional style, they do this quite well. I do swing dancing with some 1930s Americana lovers, and they all get their suits made here. Double pleats galore!

Ready to Wear

Beijing struggles here, there are not many good options for RTW. I've compiled a few good ones:

Street复古店

This is my favorite, they have a lot of reproduction brands, so a lot of old military/college style.

798 San Shang Shou Gong (798三上手工)

Excellent leather shop, a must visit if you're looking for a new leather bag.

Beams/Brooks Brothers/Ralph Lauren

All foreign brands of course. These are really the only places to get RTW trad clothing.

Footwear

Again, not a ton of options, but a few solid ones:

Medallion

Offers international brands as well as their own models. They also do bespoke for about $1200. Prices start around $200.

Tassels

Carries all the usual international brands, as well as a small selection of belts, shirts, sweaters, etc.

TG北町

One of Beijing's only local footwear brands. Prices are a bit lower than the big brands.

Vintage

A growing sector in Beijing. There are a few excellent, excellent vintage stores:

Utopia the Shelter

Incredible selection, with their second floor dedicated to vintage designer pieces. Beijing's best. Owner grew up in New York, so speaks perfect English. Prices sit around $50-$200, $150+ for designer.

Vintage Mr. Bai

A close second. They are less curated, but have lower prices and more selection. If you're patient you can find something good, like my vintage Armani overcoat that I'm so proud of. Prices are around $10-100.

Barnhouse Leathers

As the name suggests, a vintage leather shop. Run by the same people as Mr. Bai and just down the road.

798 Arts District Vintage Stores

There are tons of vintage shops around this area, just walk around and you'll find a good one!

Gulou Da Jie Vintage Stores

Similar to 798, a street with many small vintage stores.

Hopefully this is helpful if you find yourself in Beijing. If you need any further advice, let me know!

reddit.com
u/ametornado — 4 days ago
▲ 11 r/NavyBlazer+2 crossposts

What is the most versatile color/pattern for a tweed coat?

Hi, I’m considering buying a tweed Balmacaan coat and I’m undecided about which pattern is the most versatile and suitable for different occasions.

Specifically, the two patterns I like best are brown houndstooth and dark gray herringbone.

To give some context, I already own a navy herringbone coat and a green loden coat, so I’d like a coat that complements them in both color and pattern.

As for my style, I dress smart casual for work (OCBD, sport coat, chinos/corduroy/gray flannels depending on the season), and in general, I like the style of Drake’s and similar brands.

Right now I’m considering these models; if anyone owns any of them and can give me feedback on any of them, I’d appreciate it.

I’m also open to other suggestions in this price range (up to roughly €500 on sale) as long as they’re easily purchasable from Europe (no duties/taxes).

Thank you so much!

Sebago Beam

https://www.sebago.com/it/products/jackets-unisex-beam-pied-de-puole-beige-brown-dk-navy-73127mw-a02

Walker Slater Watson

https://www.walkerslater.com/watson-coat-belted-harris-tweed-wide-herringbone-charcoal?srsltid=AfmBOoqUy-WmEbUQaMCHVgKsfbe8v49L8NVI5ghReD2h3Ltrp\_yZoINR

Gloverall Hynes

https://www.gloverall.com/it/products/mens-hynes-harris-tweed-overcoat-charcoal-herringbone

https://www.gloverall.com/it/products/mens-hynes-harris-tweed-overcoat-brown-houndstooth

u/Spirited_Panda2067 — 5 days ago

If I buy high waisted trousers/pants like these should I get it to my natural waist measurement?

Like the title is saying, should I use my natural waist instead of my hips which is the common “waist” measurement in modern clothing when buying clothes vintage?

u/Round_Scarcity_1698 — 5 days ago
▲ 9 r/NavyBlazer+1 crossposts

Shop recommendations in Stockholm

Hallo all. I’m in Stockholm for the week and wanted to check out some nice shops, do you have any good recommendations?

reddit.com
u/BeanBoy200 — 5 days ago