I was wondering if anyone here can tell me with 100% certainty if this is a vinyl or screen print. I want to know before I buy and attempt to remove it. I hear vinyl is WAY easier. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much!!
Idk why. But After i the UV light sesh the screen just had a hole in it… its a 90T Screen and i Never Worked with it before. Are they more sensible?
Are these any good? I’m worried they fit of them will exclude the Bigger Folks, thanks yall!
I know it's low-key kind of mid, I printed 7 and they took so long, wanted to test out water based ink with warp drive on polyester, it's hold up really good on the wash! So much fun!
This is a show case, it has already been printed and I can't change anything, open to criticism but changing the design in general is impossible at this point lmao
Messed up my magenta screen and just kinda rolled with it! Printed using speedball ultra blue, process yellow, and black.
Before anyone posts a link to Amazon which I’ve already searched, I am looking for a 2 pack of WHITE 200 mesh. The only ones I’ve found on Amazon are an 8 count bundle and I don’t really need that many right now. I reclaimed one of the ones I had, but I want one or 2 more. Any others on Amazon are only yellow mesh and I don’t have the right light for that. Can anyone please send me a link?
I have collages I want to print onto screens but I don't know how I'd go about making the screen itself be able to print shadows and everything like that. i don't understand how photo emulsion is able to make the silkscreen do that. like how is it able to print grey when the person only used black ink?
is it because of the way the picture is made of tiny dots? if so, what website or whatever can I use to make a picture look like that?
I was reading a website online, and they say any artwork that’s text based has to be converted to outlines or “rasterized” to be approved. Does this make a huge difference? I want to print simple text in Arial font on a 200 mesh screen with Chromaline blue. I’ve had far more success using 200 with the blue. I really hope I don’t need to get all mixed up with Adobe software to make the text into an outline.
I have been short on frames lately and had made a post recently that included a picture with one of my roller frames and someone asked what i was using for a frame so i thought to include a few pictures of the process of me putting some 230 mesh on some empty frames i had in the shed. I believe i need to invest in some better fabric soon and have been looking at this but would love to hear if anyone has other fabric source recommendations.
Roller frames have gold and silver nuts one is normal thread the other reverse creating a system that all nuts will spin in the same direction to tighten or loosen depending what side of the frame is up. I like to use the big wrench on my left side starting with the left nut loose and using the big wrench to hold position while i loosen the right side 2nd and then stretch the fabric with my left hand on the big wrench all while right hand is still on small wrench (right side) waiting to tighten once i feel good about the stretch then back to left with small wrench to tighten. The frames are subject to warping at the corners due to uneven tension but with practice you can get them very flat and with the cheep amazon fabric i have I can get over 20 newtons pretty easily I just normally need to do a second stretch after letting the frames rest from the first stretch. If you use roller frames do you have any other advice?
Happy 4th!
I hate these boxes so, so, so much.
Coming from embroidery and setting up a full screen printing operation from scratch. Trying to settle the cap film vs emulsion debate before I lock in a workflow.
Curious what people actually run day to day and why. Interested in:
If you switched from one to the other, what pushed you? Will be running mostly tees and hoodies.
I'm looking to start printing my own designs, initially for personal use but eventually to sell. My budget is around £1,000, and I'm based in the UK.
I'm hoping to produce high-quality, full-colour designs on T-shirts and hoodies, but I'm a bit overwhelmed by all the different printing methods (DTF, DTG, sublimation, HTV, screen printing, etc.).
With a budget of around £1,000:
What printing method would you recommend?
Which printer and heat press would you buy?
Are there any UK suppliers you'd recommend (or avoid)?
What other equipment or consumables should I budget for?
If you were starting again with £1,000 today, what would your setup look like?
I'd rather spend a bit more on equipment that's reliable and has room to grow than buy something cheap that I'll need to replace in six months.
Thanks in advance!
Ok these are my first ones, so I have LOTS of room to improve and learn from my mistakes. However I do wish I would have paid more attention to the clear glaze. It was way to thick ( you can see the haze in the corners )
Lessons have been learned 🤣🤣
Screen printed a layer of transparent base mixed with antique silver pigment and powdered graphite then flocked with crushed pearl powder 😮💨 a fun little challenge with lots of learning!
Tl;dr: Affinity is good + Adobe Fonts workaround
Been using Adobe since 1999. Bought my physical copy of CS6 for Windows in 2013. Switched to their subscription model around 2019 because of updated software + Adobe Fonts.
Pricing sucks, but it was never bad enough to have me look for alternatives. Even losing Pantone libraries wasn't a dealbreaker since you could work around it with saved swatches.
Learning new software sucks hard. There are Adobe keyboard shortcuts in my fingers that my brain doesn't even know about. But with the push for AI, bloated updates, system crashes, and cancellation fees for subscriptions, it finally felt like enough was enough.
So a couple of days ago (still somewhat reluctantly) I decided to install and try out Affinity. I was expecting some watered down meh alternative that would just feel off. But it was everything but that. As of now I see no reason to go back to Adobe.
Also: it's free
Font workaround
Since I do client work I need licensed commercial fonts, and I believe Adobe Fonts is still one of the best curated font libraries out there. So here's the workaround I ended up using:
(Maybe this is a gray area?)
Adobe InCopy is the cheapest single app Adobe subscription (in my region) that includes Creative Cloud access + Adobe Fonts. It costs about 70–80 EUR per year.
Install Creative Cloud, activate fonts there, and they show up as system fonts. That means they work directly in Affinity like any other installed font.
So now I basically run:
Affinity for vector design work + film positives with Printfab
Adobe InCopy as a font gateway
hello i am a sort of beginner screen printer (16yo) and i recently started using wilflex amazing bright tiger white ink. every time i print with this ink it always crack while trying to pull it off my board or it starts washing off in the first wash. and when its done curing its mat i thought plastisol inks were supposed to come out shinyish. can someone please help me the only thing i use to cure my ink is the vevor flash dryer at 260c and i print on either american aperal AL1301 or Gildan G500 please someone help me am i doing something wrong or is it the material
I’m trying to make my prints more registered. Someone suggested ternes Burton reg pins. All I can find are the plastic ones and reviews are negative for those. I’ve seen videos for the round metal ones but can’t find any online (sold out at the one store I found). Any suggestions? Anyone use the plastic pins?
I enjoy teaching that skill. I could do merp
Hello there!
I would like to try some alternatives to store-bought inks to print on paper. I have a lot of powder pigments and I was wondering if any of you have tried making their own water based inks from scratch and what to add in the mix.
Also, I mostly use 80-110t screens so I have to find the right thickness for the ink to pass through.
Any tips from DIY printmakers out there ?