I’ve had my 2006 Scion tC for about 8 months now. It has 135,000 miles. I only get about 200 MPG. It lasts me about two weeks since I only drive it a 8 miles everyday Monday-Friday, in a 2 mile radius since I’m a Maintenance Tech and only need to drive to certain properties. I barely drive far, could that be the problem? I feel like I could be getting more out of it.
I changed my alternator bc my battery was draining while driving to the point my lights inside & headlights were flickering on and off. It completely died when I got to my house. We got the car to start once after replacing the alternator, but it died within 30 seconds. Now it won't start at all.
It was intermittent on my last trip. I made it 70 miles away before it started. Then the battery light started coming on randomly, it was dropping voltage unless I was accelerating for 30 miles. Then I drove fine with no issue until I got another 40 miles back towards home.
Obviously I’m doing something wrong or something deeper is an issue but I’m not losing hope or excitement for this car I adore it and have loved every minute of working on it and learning. Any ideas on why my radiator would blow again new thermostat and water pump installed.
As title states. I'm not too mechanically inclined, anyone have any idea why this may be happening?
2nd gen Scion tC, 2AR-FE, ~176k miles. I’m getting a P0302 only at about 80 mph in 6th gear around 3250 RPM under steady cruise. It doesn’t happen at 75 or 85 mph, and I can run through 3250 RPM in every other gear without any misfires. I can’t hear or feel it happening, but live data shows cylinder 2 accumulating misfire counts while cylinders 1, 3, and 4 stay at zero until it eventually sets the code. I swapped the cylinder 2 coil with another cylinder and the misfire stayed on #2. NGK iridium plugs have under 5k miles, and compression tested around 11 bar/160 psi evenly across all four cylinders a few months ago. The car has an HPS intake with a K&N cone, the MAF was recently cleaned with MAF cleaner, and I recently tightened all the intake connections. LTFT has been around +18% at light throttle for as long as I’ve owned the car and drops toward 0 as throttle/load increases; lambda is usually around 0.99. The P0302 started recently after using fuel-system cleaner and an oil cleaner/additive. Freeze-frame data also shows zero misfires on every cylinder when the code sets even though I can watch #2 accumulate counts in live data. Toyota says Injectors and PCV require removing the intake manifold on these cars, so I’m trying to narrow this down before tearing into it. Any ideas?
Looks clean it’s got the 2.5 I’ve heard it’s tourqey but kinda gutless? I suppose it’d be better than my 140hp civic anyways with 180hp. Would it still be reliable with 190k km?
I own a Scion tC RS9.0 I'm #1638 out of the 2,000 made. It's paid off and I have the title.
Nothing is wrong with it. Looks brand new. I've owned it for 11-years this month.
What's a fast way to sell it? It's currently uninsured with expired tags.
Found out this morning that my scion needs an engine. I was quoted 1k in labor and would have to buy the engine as well.
Wondering if it’s worth it. What are the long term benefits or issues I could face.
I'm going for a more aggressive look for my '14 tC and have been shopping around for wheels. I asked ai to mock up some pics and decided on bronze. I am looking to close the wheel gap and fill the wheel well nicely without any suspension mods, fender rolling, etc. I want to keep the ride as close to stock as possible. I want a set of dark bronze deep/concave looking wheels without it looking like a monster truck. I've never purchased wheels before so everything I know is from recent research. From what I can tell, in order to achieve the look I'm going for, I should be looking for 18x8.5+35 to +38 or 18x9+35 to +38 which seems to be the sweet spot for daily driver set up for the tC. But I'm not sure, would I run into any problems with 18x9.5, +35 which seems like it would help me achieve the look I'm going for even more? Then when it comes to the tire, in which instance would I get 225/45ZR18 vs. 235/40R18 ?
Hi all, hoping there may be more technical minded folks here who can help me out. I'm trying to replace a shredded belt, but after I removed the 20% of the degraded belt that was still hanging on, I noticed this bit affixed to the tensioner that I turned to remove the belt. Anyone who's done this before, does this look like a shredded pulley wheel or some other part, or is this just a severely dried out belt bit that has bunched up by the tensioner (car has been sitting in the heat in NorCal for a few months).
It's really hard to tell, so I don't know if I should just cut it out and then the replacement will be straightforward as it's just leftover belt or if I'm going to need to replace something more substantial like an entire tensioner wheel. Thanks in advance. I can try to get more pictures tomorrow if this is too indecipherable, it's starting to get dark.
2014 Scion Tc
Looks more bad ass now haha!
*The sound in question turns off around 20 sec into the video*
I have a 2013, Scion, tC, automatic with about 180k miles. Starting about a month ago, after a cold start the car will make a sound, which would shut off after a few seconds of starting and won’t come back unless the car sits for +15hrs. Was curious what this sound might be if anyone has any ideas lmk! I’d love to fix it before something bad happens lol. Never had any issues with it (so far), I don’t drive the car hard and kept up maintenance on it.
Edit: Added more clarification
I would like to install a nice rear anti sway bar and see how it affects my cornering, any recommendations?
Bonus clip at the video's 2:30 mark.
I got sick of driving a pickup truck all the time and eating up gas outside of my construction job, so I got this little fixer-upper so I could have a more fuel-efficient vehicle to drive outside of work. She needs some love, but she's still got pep. Squirrely as hell with no traction control and ABS that doesn't work, lol! I've already fishtailed and spun it out on the highway once to avoid someone swerving into me with no signal, but I didn't crash and drove away unscathed. took a bit to get used to how sensitive it is to steering input after driving a full-sized pickup every day for 10 years.
Her name is Simone. Got her about two months ago.
Hi guys! I'm looking into buying a 2008-2010 tC as a beginner in the car scene. I'm wanting to learn to do my own maintenance and am wondering how challenging the first gen tC is to work on. (As someone who has never worked-worked on a car)
What parts tend to fail? What parts seem to never give up?
Also what do you guys like and dislike about the first gens?
How much should I be able to get for my TC? Bought used in 2013 and I've have as a weekend driver. I have a company so I've never needed to commute to work.
New all Michelin Crossclimate2 tires.
Automatic trans
Subwoofer and Pioneer stereo
Power stop red calipers and upgrade rotors/pads
Only 85494 miles driven
Motor mounts replaced
Tinted windows
I'm in Washington state
I think it looks pretty good now it was much worse before 😂 I also posted what I used as well last pic!