r/Sovol

I'm about to start building my SV08 Max that's had to sit for a couple of weeks before I had the time to start the build.

I know there's a fair number of modifications / improvements possible but there doesn't seem to be a comprehensive list along with "howto's" on available mods, therefore I'm going to make one for my own usage and will make it available for anyone to view.

Please post your suggestions below with any links you have (and if such a thing already exists, please point me in it's direction).

Thanks in advance.

Picked up an SV08, have been going through the calibration process before putting it to work,

I have calibrated my E-steps, and found that my E steps were slightly over extruding, so I adjusted the rotation_distance to 6.44 from 6.5

Running the Flow Ratio calibration test in Orca using the Archimedean chords and I had to lower my Flow Ratio from .98 all the way to .9 for just basic PLA (Sunlu).

This this normal? I have three other printers (Bambu Labs P2S) and none of them drop below .97 for any filament.

Print was going well until it wasn't. Need help to figure out what is going on. Logs and video linked as a zipped file.

1. This is a new SV08 MAX with enclosure.
2. Filament is Overture PLA Pro. The filament was dried in the SH03 filament dryer with stock settings according to instructions.
3. Default profile on OrcaSlicer 2.4.2 for both the printer and the filament was used.
4. I manually slowed the print down to 70% about 10 seconds after the print started.
5. I have had other "tall" prints fail in much the same way. Only big prints like this one (400mm wide and 400mm tall range of objects) are failing. Small prints are fine.
6. One thing I have noticed is that the printer is generating so many G-forces that the magnetically locked glass doors RATTLE during the print. The whole workbench wobbles from it (hence the printing speed slowdown I did).
7. Code modification: I've done are tweaking the auxiliary filament feeder to not make as much noise (slowed it down).
8. Code modification: Changed the heater bed to include a PWM Cycle change to 49Hz (can't remember the exact code but that's what it does) to eliminate lights flickering in my house from the bed heating up.
9. I've noticed strings and small blobs occasionally being thrown out. I've done a full days worth of calibrations but opted to use stock settings for this first run.
10. I've run a full set of calibrations on the machine itself (including PID).
11. At time 19:00 or so there is a dip in memory from a steady 579k down to 542k that does not occur anywhere else. I think this corresponds to the error in printing but I am not sure.
12. I have also noticed a temperature spike in the Host that occurred during the memory dip at 80C. I know that around that temp magical things start to break other magical things. Do I have a motherboard cooling issue??

https://preview.redd.it/eeupg6l14ujh1.png?width=706&format=png&auto=webp&s=e27e3d700079efaa73dead34933fb503d3df74ab

I'd like to hear opinions from people that haven't been sent a machine for testing or are posting for internet points. Is the M1D kickstarter campaign worth investing in? Whats your assessment of the risk? Whats your experience with Sovols previous models? Be brutal.

Looking to upgrade from a Prusa MK3 to something bigger. SV08 or maybe SV08 Max seem like a good option, but I am seeing people disagreeing about taco bed fix, references to Klipper mainline, alternate hotend compatibility, etc. Is there a wiki or forum with guides with consistent information that people are generally in agreement about?

Questions for this crowd:

- People seem happy with Max including all of the upgrades that SV08 should have, but underwhelmed by the print quality. Is Max just not sturdy enough for its size?

- Is taco bed actually fixed on currently shipping SV08? Aside from the fan, what other upgrades does it really need?

- What is the hotend/nozzle compatibility situation? I print mostly PLA/PETG, but occasionally abrasives or TPU. How hard is it to swap nozzles or open things up to clear jams/clogs?

- How is compatibility for upgrades in general? Can I generally assume that stuff designed for Voron 2.4 will work for SV08? Multi-material isn't a huge priority for me, but is there a multi-material option that most people agree on?

- I realize answers in this sub are probably a bit biased, but are there other large printers anyone would recommend? Not interested in Bambu's walled garden and Prusa XL is just way too expensive.

Edit: a lot of good feedback. Pretty sure I'm going to get a Voron kit instead. Thanks /r/sovol lol

I am using my printer offline, can't really change printer.cfg or Macro.cfg on the printer, only extracted these from the 2.5.0 firmware images. After a good start, my SV08 printed terrible, with the nozzle too close to the bed every time.

I checked Z after homing and found it to be perfekt, on Z = 0 the nozzle was slightly over the bed. And still, when printing, the first layer was squished so terrible that the pressure buildup caused blobs in the first layer.

The configuration from Sovol I imported into OrcaSlicer had this machine start G-Code:

G28
G90
G1 X0 F9000
G1 Y20
G1 Z0.600 F600
G1 Y0 F9000
START_PRINT
G90
G1 X0 F9000
G1 Y20
G1 Z0.600 F600
G1 Y0 F9000
M400
G91
M83
M140 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] ;set bed temp
M104 S[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer] ;set extruder temp
M190 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] ;wait for bed temp
M109 S[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer];wait for extruder temp
G1 E25 F300
G4 P1000
G1 E-0.200 Z5 F600
G1 X88.000 F9000
G1 Z-5.000 F600
G1 X87.000 E20.88 F1800
G1 X87.000 E13.92 F1800
G1 Y1 E0.16 F1800
G1 X-87.000 E13.92 F1800
G1 X-87.000 E20.88 F1800
G1 Y1 E0.24 F1800
G1 X87.000 E20.88 F1800
G1 X87.000 E13.92 F1800
G1 E-0.200 Z1 F600
M400

So mesh-bed leveling is "hidden" in the START_PRINT macro.

Now I am using this:

M140 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single]
M104 S150
M190 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single]
M109 S150
G28
BED_MESH_CLEAR
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
M109 S[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer]
G90
M83
G92 E0
G91
G1 Z5 F600
G90
G1 X100 Y10 F9000
G1 Z0.40 F600
G1 E3 F300
G1 X250 Y10 E12 F1200
G1 Z2 F600
G92 E0
M400

So heating the bed to final temperature first, which is at 80°C for me as I am printing PETG, then home, then do the BED_MESH_CALIBRATE macro.

As the BED_MESH_CALIBRATE macro in Macro.cfg has this: variable_bed_mesh_calibrate_target_temp: 65

The bed is now heated to 80°C and then cools back down to 65°C. Yeah, looks like I need to hook up a keyboard to the printer and copy a modified Macro.cfg to it from USB.

But here is the thing, this already made a huge difference, with this I went from bad prints to ok/good prints.

Maybe this is old news, I have not found a solution as simple as this so far though.
And my expectation was that a printer manufacturer would provide a working set of settings.

Hey everyone!

Quick update on our M1D prototype. I know many of us are following the Kickstarter, so here’s a quick TL;DR of what I’ve learned after running a bunch of multi-material prints and troubleshooting some early prototype quirks:

• Zero Purge Waste: No poop, just a small prime tower. So it's just almost zero waste, but zero purge waste. Compared to my Bambu H2S on the exact same model, the M1D was 3x faster with 5x less material waste (though I might have messed up on that model printing it with bigger layer hight. Still the closeups and mechanics will be interesting). Someone suggested turning off prime tower for 2-tool idex prints. That's coming next.
• IDEX + Toolchanger Advantage: Printed a PETG lightbar with PLA supports. Because one head holds the base material while the carriage swaps tools, the entire 3-material print only needed ONE single tool change. And how those supports popped off!
• The Calibration Bug & Fix: My Dual X-stepper calibration kept causing T1 tool-grab crashes. The calibration measured a 39.13 rotation distance vs default 39.00. On my early prototype bed, that offset caused a ~1.4mm physical misalignment at T1! Forcing rotation distance back to 39.00 in the config fixed it completely (416 toolchanges with 0 crashes since).
• 7-Tool Redundancy: When T1 acted up during a 700-color Spider-Man print, I just remapped White PLA to one of the 2 spare tools in Orca, hit resume, and saved the print.
• Two Essential Slicer Fixes for PETG + PLA:
  1. Snapping Prime Towers: Enable "Tower interface features" so the PETG/PLA layers interlock.
  2. Warping/Bed Adhesion: Orca automatically heats the bed to 70°C for PETG support interfaces, which warps the PLA sitting on the bed. Manually force the PETG support material's bed temp down to 50°C in filament settings (there might be a better device level setting, still learning).
• Filamentree PLA Blaster: Got a bit of fine fluff/hairy stringing on this tough PLA (both on the M1D and on the H2S too). Someone suggested printing it at higher temperatures to eliminate that, so I'll be testing higher temps next!

The video has the print closeups, footage of the mid-print crash, and the camera firmware flashing process here:

https://youtu.be/w3iACo9yOcE

Drop any questions below, correct me too, please. And as always I am happy to dive into the configs or mechanics!

Does anyone have any good reccomendations for SV08 hotend fan kits? the sovol site seems to have them sold out all the time, but i find that they are not lasting as long as id expect - i have already replaced two of them! it would be good to have two full sets sitting here as spares ready to go, but sorcing quality ones is proving difficult.

I am not interested in changing the hot end at this point in time. I am sure someone is going to suggest it, so im heading that off up front.

It definitely doesnt look like it? But the kick starter says it can print tpu, but i thought to do that the extruder had to be on the carriage?

I'm getting back into the printing game after a few years off and I want to try out Orcaslicer but for the life of me I can't find a profile for it, anyone can point me to one?

Hi! I just bought a new SV08. I built it, made couple small prints, then it started giving off error 7 and shutting down. Disassembled heater block, heater seems fine. Sensor is ok. Connectors are plugged in. PID has been tuned multiple times. Heating starts fine, then suddenly temperature drops (curve gradient is consistent with heater being off, despite it being at 100% duty cycle).

Is the ceramic heater to blame? I already have ordered a new one (70W 24V ceramic, flat) from another brand; will recrimp end connector once it's home, but I desire a second opinion

Thanks.