I am interested to buy M1D - it will be my first Sovol printer ever.

I asked Claude to make the below comparison table and explanation (I fed it with specs published on their official site). I used Sovol SV08 Max to compare as it seems like SV08 is their best printer (Max because I am also interested in a bigger printer and if there is an available toolhead upgrade for Max, I am happy to consider it.)

I used Bambulab A1 as benchmark as it is the only printer I currently have.

In short, it says here M1D will be almost at the same speed as Bambulab A1 - in which I will be satisfied if that's the case but this comparison made by Claude use the features and specs published by Sovol. In general "max" specs are just marketing - but do you think Sovol is always true to their spec words?

Since it will be my first Sovol printer if ever, what should I expect in general?
I heard there's a lot of tinkering needed to Sovol printers to get the print right, how difficult it will be?

Master spec table (confirmed data)

Category	Sovol M1D	Sovol SV08 Max	What it means
Concept	Multi-material IDEX + 6-toolhead changer	Big, fast, single-color CoreXY	Different problems entirely
Kinematics	Cartesian, aluminum frame	CoreXY, Voron 2.4-derived	CoreXY = lighter moving mass = speed
Build volume (single)	300×300×350 mm	500×500×500 mm (450 Z w/ enclosure)	Max is ~4.6× the printable air
Build volume (dual overlap, 7-head)	240×300×350 mm	—	Both heads on one object = narrower zone
Build volume (mirror / copy)	138 / 178 ×300×350 mm	—	The fine print on "print two at once"
Max speed	600 mm/s	700 mm/s	Nearly meaningless — see below
Acceleration	10,000 mm/s²	40,000 mm/s²	The number that actually matters: 4× gap
Max flow	30 mm³/s (PLA, 260°C)	50 mm³/s	Max melts ~1.7× faster
Nozzle	300°C, hardened steel, ceramic heating	300°C, ceramic heating	Tie on temp; M1D wins on abrasives out of box
Bed	100°C, 800W AC, PEI steel	100°C, 1300W AC, 8mm aluminum	Tie on temp; both fine for ABS, marginal for PC
Leveling	Eddy current + real-time Z offset + camera XY calibration	Eddy current + pressure touch points	Both fully automatic
Cameras	4 total (chamber + 2× motion calib + XY offset)	1 (720p, Obico AI)	M1D's cameras are load-bearing, not a luxury
Enclosure	Optional kit + top cover (correction: not enclosed by default)	Optional kit (costs 50mm of Z)	Both open-frame machines
Heated chamber	Up to 60°C — M1D Advanced variant only	$69 module, no stated target temp	M1D Advanced has the better-specified chamber
Materials	PLA/TPU/PETG/PVA; ABS/ASA/PA/PC w/ enclosure	PLA/TPU/PETG; ABS/ASA/PA/PC/CF blends w/ enclosure	PVA (dissolvable supports) is the M1D's ace
Electronics	5" touch, Wi-Fi/USB, 32GB eMMC, OrcaSlicer	Klipper, TMC5160, CAN bus, Wi-Fi/Ethernet/HDMI, 1GB/8GB	Max has richer connectivity; M1D has no LAN
Power draw	~450W total	1300W bed alone	Max is a space heater on long jobs
Footprint	715×626×1100 mm (tall — spool on top)	700×710×750 mm	Both huge; M1D needs height clearance
Price	$1,199–1,499 early / $1,799 MSRP; Advanced TBD	$1,099 sale / $1,299 + enclosure + $69 heater	Comparable money, Kickstarter vs retail
Availability	Kickstarter, unproven, Sovol's first campaign	Shipping now, reviewed	The biggest non-spec difference

The five verdicts that matter

1. Size: SV08 Max, no contest. 500³ vs 300×300×350 — helmets, furniture parts, full props in one piece. And remember the M1D's volume shrinks further in its signature modes: mirror printing caps parts at 138mm wide, copy mode at 178mm. If your dream was mirror-printing two large armor pieces simultaneously, the spec sheet quietly kills it — that trick is for smallish parts only.

2. Speed: SV08 Max for single-color, M1D for multi-color — and the M1D is not "slow." The confirmed 10,000 mm/s² acceleration and 30 mm³/s flow make the M1D exactly a Bambu A1-class mover (A1: 10,000 mm/s², 28 mm³/s) — a perfectly respectable modern printer that looks slow only next to the Max's 40,000 mm/s² / 50 mm³/s CoreXY monster. But flip to multi-color work and the hierarchy inverts: the M1D's ~5-second dedicated-nozzle toolhead swaps versus the purge-and-reload ritual of single-nozzle systems (a minute-plus per change, hundreds of changes per print) means the M1D should demolish any AMS-style machine — and the Max can't do multi-color at all.

3. Enclosure & chamber: now genuinely interesting, and I had it backwards. Both ship open-frame with optional enclosure kits. But the spec sheet reveals the M1D Advanced gets an actively heated chamber with a stated 60°C target — the sweet spot where ABS/ASA stop warping — while the SV08 Max's $69 chamber module never states a target temperature and has to fight half a cubic meter of air. On paper, the M1D Advanced is the more credible ABS/ASA/nylon machine per cubic centimeter; the Max still wins if you need those materials big, accepting more warp risk at the extremes of its bed. Caveats: Advanced pricing is unannounced, upgradeability from base M1D is unknown, and six parked toolheads living inside a 60°C chamber is exactly the kind of thermal design that only real-world units will validate.

4. Materials: closer than expected. Both hit 300°C and 100°C bed. The M1D counters the Max's raw size with a hardened steel nozzle standard (carbon-fiber-ready day one) and official PVA support — dedicate one toolhead to dissolvable supports and print geometries that are miserable on any single-nozzle machine. That's arguably the M1D's most underrated spec.

5. Risk: the widest gap of all. The Max is a shipping, independently reviewed product from Sovol's most successful product line (the Voron-derived SV08 family), with known flaws — rough software, weak documentation, an inactive LAN port at launch — that the community has already mapped. The M1D is Sovol's most mechanically ambitious machine ever, on their first-ever Kickstarter, from a company whose historical weaknesses (firmware polish, docs, fading GitHub support, slow logistics and warranty friction) are precisely what a camera-calibrated seven-toolhead system depends on. Their SV04 IDEX heritage helps; nothing else about the risk profile does.

Final recommendation, updated

• Big things, one color, engineering materials, want it now: SV08 Max + enclosure + $69 chamber module. ~$1,400–1,500 all-in, proven, fastest machine here by a real margin.
• Multi-color/multi-material is the whole point: M1D — and specifically consider the Advanced trim, since the 60°C chamber is the difference between "PLA rainbow machine" and "genuine multi-material workstation." But treat it as a bet: put down the refundable deposit, then wait for production units in backers' hands and independent reviews before committing. With Sovol, the spec sheet has historically been the honest part; the software and support around it are where the gamble lives.
• If you can only justify one machine and print mostly functional single-color parts with occasional color accents: the boring truth is the Max covers more real-world ground — and a proven A1 Combo beside it would cover the multi-color itch for less than the M1D's early-bird price, today, with none of the risk.

>can you please dig deeper on the speed? I dont understand the numbers but its seems that m1d is much slower? can you use Bambulab A1 with AMS Lite as benchmark to compare the 2 sovol printers?

Great instinct to ask — because here's the twist: once you put the Bambu A1 next to them, the M1D suddenly doesn't look slow at all. It looks exactly as fast as an A1. The confusion comes from marketing speed numbers measuring the wrong thing. Let me build this up from zero.

The three speed numbers, ELI5

Think of the printhead as a delivery truck driving around a city dropping off plastic.

Max speed (mm/s) is the truck's top speed on an empty highway. The A1 claims 500 mm/s, the M1D 600, the SV08 Max 700. Sounds like Max > M1D > A1, right? Problem: prints aren't highways. They're city streets full of intersections.

Acceleration (mm/s²) is how fast the truck gets back up to speed after every stop sign. And a 3D print is thousands of stop signs — every corner, every direction change, the head must brake and re-accelerate. Here's the real table:

	Acceleration
Bambu A1	10,000 mm/s²
Sovol M1D	10,000 mm/s²
Sovol SV08 Max	40,000 mm/s²

The M1D and the A1 are identical. Here's why this number dominates: at 10,000 mm/s², reaching 500 mm/s takes 50 milliseconds — during which the truck travels 12.5mm. So on any print feature shorter than ~25mm (which is most features — walls of a phone case, letters, small details), the head physically never reaches top speed before it has to brake for the next corner. The "500 vs 600 mm/s" difference between A1 and M1D is largely fictional in practice; they spend their lives in the same acceleration-limited zone. The SV08 Max's 4× acceleration means it gets up to speed in a quarter of the distance — that's a difference you actually see on real prints.

Flow rate (mm³/s) is how fast the factory can load the truck — how much plastic the nozzle can melt per second. Doesn't matter how fast the truck drives if it's empty:

	Max flow
Bambu A1	28 mm³/s (measured @ ABS)
Sovol M1D	30 mm³/s (@ PLA, 260°C)
Sovol SV08 Max	50 mm³/s

Again: M1D ≈ A1, nearly identical. The Max melts almost twice as fast, which is what lets it actually use its speed on big prints with long straight runs — and a 500mm-wide print is exactly the kind of "long empty highway" where top speed and flow finally matter.

So for a single-color print of the same object: SV08 Max clearly fastest, and M1D ≈ A1, essentially tied. The M1D never was "much slower" — it's precisely A1-class motion. It only looked slow standing next to a CoreXY monster. (There's a structural reason both are 10k: the A1 is a bedslinger flinging a heavy bed back and forth, and the M1D drags two extruders plus a tool-gripper on its gantry. Heavy things shake if you accelerate them hard, and shaking = ugly rippled walls. The Max moves only a single light toolhead on belts — that's what CoreXY buys you.)

Now the part that flips everything: multi-color speed

This is where the A1 + AMS Lite comparison gets genuinely interesting, because the AMS approach pays a brutal hidden tax that never appears on any spec sheet.

How the A1 + AMS Lite changes color (the "one crayon" method): it has one nozzle. Every single color change means: stop printing → drive to the side → cut the filament → rewind old color all the way back to the AMS → push new color all the way in → purge (squirt out plastic until the old color stops bleeding through, into a waste chute or purge tower) → resume. That's roughly a minute or more per swap, plus wasted filament, every single time.

Sounds tolerable? Multi-color prints don't change color once. They change color on every layer where two colors appear. A two-color logo plate 200 layers tall = ~200 swaps. A four-color model can hit 500+ swaps. At ~a minute each, the printer spends more hours swapping filament than printing. It's completely normal for an AMS multi-color print to take 3–5× longer than the same object in one color, with a fist-sized pile of purge waste next to it. This is the single most common complaint A1 Combo owners have — the printer is fast, but multi-color turns a 4-hour print into an overnight job.

How the M1D changes color (the "seven crayons" method): every color has its own dedicated, pre-heated nozzle. Swap = park one head, grab another — ~5 seconds, and since each nozzle only ever touches its own color, there's (nearly) nothing to purge. That same 200-swap print: the A1 burns ~3+ hours on changes; the M1D burns ~17 minutes. Same 500-swap monster: ~8 hours of swapping vs ~40 minutes.

So the honest speed ranking depends entirely on what you print:

Scenario	Winner	Why
Big single-color part	SV08 Max, by a lot	4× accel + 2× flow + no color logic at all
Small/medium single-color part	Max still wins; M1D and A1 tie	M1D and A1 have identical motion specs
Multi-color part, few color regions	M1D slightly ahead of A1	Fewer swaps = smaller tax either way
Multi-color part, many changes per layer	M1D, massively	5-second swaps vs ~1-minute purge cycles, hundreds of times
Two identical/mirrored smallish parts	M1D	Copy/mirror mode literally prints both at once — neither the A1 nor the Max can do this at any speed

Two honest caveats on the M1D side. First, all of this is Sovol's claimed behavior — no independent reviewer has timed a production M1D yet, and tool-changers historically add their own small overheads (nozzle priming after pickup, occasional alignment moves). "Nearly zero waste" will realistically be "very little waste," not literally zero. Second, remember from the spec sheet that copy/mirror modes only work on parts ≤178mm / ≤138mm wide, so the "double speed" trick applies to smallish objects.

The one-paragraph takeaway

The M1D isn't a slow printer — it's exactly an A1-speed printer (same 10,000 mm/s² acceleration, same ~30 mm³/s melting capacity, and those are the numbers that actually govern print time) whose 600 mm/s headline invited an unfair comparison with a genuinely faster machine. The SV08 Max is the true speed outlier of the three, but only for single-color work. And the moment your prints involve frequent color changes, the entire hierarchy inverts: the M1D's 5-second dedicated-nozzle swaps should demolish the A1+AMS Lite's purge-and-reload ritual, which routinely triples or quadruples multi-color print times. Fast at what is the whole question — the Max is fast at big monochrome objects, the M1D is (on paper) fast at colorful ones, and the A1 is the proven, polished baseline that both are trying to beat from opposite directions.

Hi there,

After having a mare of a time with the Core One L (mediocre print quality, constant clogging, & a nozzle crash within less than a spool's worth of material), I am looking for an alternative to purchase once my return process for the C1L is complete.

The SV08 has caught my eye as an alternative Core XY printer with similar capabilities, and even with potential for INDX support, which is one of the reasons I got a C1L.

I've had a browse of the sub but I haven't quite scratched the itch on wanting to hear from people who actually own an SV08, so I'm hoping you guys can help me out. Primarily I'm looking to understand how reliable the machine is in terms of things like failed prints, nozzle clogs, and overall print quality. Secondary to that, if the printer is failing on any of these aspects, eg. print quality, what the 'quality ceiling' is for the machine is in these terms, i.e. is it possible to bring the print quality on par with industry leading machines as long as you calibrate your print profiles correctly?

Thirdly, any other feedback and information would be very welcome, especially around recommend auxillary equipment or upgrades that should be obtained from the get go for the best user experience.

Thank you for your time!

Hi,

Is it possible to restore the build plate on the SV08? The pei on my sheet is damaged and I want to restore it without replacing the entire huge metal sheet. I can only think of sanding it down and then using acetone, but I've heard you can freeze some other sheets and just peel the pei off, but I don't think this is applicable for the SV08. Has anyone done this?

This will possibly be my first printer and I just want to know what it will take to make it print reliably and reach high temperatures and at what cost. I mean 120C bed, 350C nozzle, 60+C chamber.

I know some stock things are not great and I will probably need to replace the bed with r3men, which takes care of the 120C bed.

- are there quality problems with other parts that need to be replaced like motors, belts, rails, electronics?

- which other mods I need in order to reach reliable printing with high temperatures? Like which hotend?

- can these mods be installed without having second printer for parts?

Hi! I'm getting a secondhand SV08 on saturday. This is my first personal printer. I have a little experience with Bambu A1s, but no experience with enclosed printers.

I'm planning on making a DIY enclosure for the SV08. I want an enclosure for three reasons: 1. noise reduction, 2. prevent the cat from getting in, 3. prevent dust/animal hair from getting in (I know hoovering helps but there's only so much you can do if you have two dogs and a cat).

However, I don't plan on printing ASA or other high temp materials. I mainly just wanna print PLA (I ordered Sunlu PLA matte and Sunlu PLA 2.0). I've heard printing PLA with an enclosure can be problematic cause it would get too hot.

I see people say they just open the door or the top cover with a hinge when printing PLA, but then I'm worried our cat could get in again.

As I see it I have three options for the enclosure:

1. Put some vent holes in the enclosure, maybe by adding the hat. I could put a filter behind it to prevent dust and stuff from getting in.

2. Add an exhaust fan.

3. Make the enclosure out of more thermally conductive material. I planned on using acrylic glass for the door, top and maybe the sides, and a printed cover for the other sides. But acrylic glass is a pretty good isolator, so I could swap this out for another material.

These options might also have issues. For 1 and 2, noise reduction is lessened so noise could be an issue again. For 1 and 3, I don't know if it would help enough in terms of cooling to print PLA.

I've also heard contradictory things about how much of a problem printing PLA with an enclosure actually is. Is it even that much of an issue? Am I overthinking it? If it's only for very long prints, I could just temporarily move the printer to the shed where the cat doesn't go or something.

Does anyone have material ideas for the third option? I'm thinking maybe normal glass, but that's obviously a pain in the ass to work with. Polystyrene is also more conductive than acrylic glass, but not by that much. Maybe aluminium plates?

If anyone has any input, please let me know! Thank you!

I am looking at purchasing the M1D when it becomes available. I don't know anything about Sovol machines and was wondering about reliability and quality. Also, will it not be enclosed? I currently have a BL P1S, but I'm very interested in the idea system. Any input or knowledge would be appreciated.

EDIT: Thank you for all the insight on the Sovol machines. I do not think these will be the right machines for me.

Hey everyone! Our next SV08 MAX upgrade video is premiering in less than an hour! ⏱️

This is on the much requested auto-refill setup using three BIQU Panda feeders. I also figured out how to power all three cleanly from the original buffer's CANBUS port.

We finally got to insulate the internals of the printer for high temp printing, and improved the LOAD/UNLOAD macros (for the time being they are not as automatic as Demon Klipper Essentials).

There is a lot more, join us in the live chat for the premiere shortly! 👇 https://youtu.be/AcxmdtjM0X0

Hello

I got my MAX in September 2025 and since day zero I had inconsistent first layers. Here is my sovol's forum topic from 2025 First layer cumulative X Y error (same pattern on first layer are common problem with MAX owners)

Since than I had days with perfect first layers and days with first layer peeling of or nozzle almost scratching the bed.

I modded my MAX really hard, even with some mods that were crafted entirely by me. Mods that include: custom enclosure, custom feeding system, macros, mainline klipper and new eddy probe.

https://preview.redd.it/xx3nu8fjk9ah1.jpg?width=1920&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8db2a3387105cbab5881f0b7cb586de0e6f9d4ea

Long story short the issue is SV08 MAX eddy probe (I suspect that SV08 have the same issues).

This probe have no temperature sensor so no thermal drift calibration which seems to be huge issue with 500^3 build volume. I bought EddyDuo from BTT and created custom PA12 mount for it (with sacrifice of auxiliary fan). The USB cable for BTT eddy have just enough space to fit inside of toolhead.

https://preview.redd.it/yjxxox3lk9ah1.png?width=1289&format=png&auto=webp&s=da15b95c3152a3d55be4eddec698461d6d766d75

https://preview.redd.it/r6qgp14lk9ah1.png?width=652&format=png&auto=webp&s=5a88d5e98a07efda2033d2532975e5d6a27d4514

https://preview.redd.it/ynezhv3lk9ah1.png?width=823&format=png&auto=webp&s=c1b5d56db2fc329cd98b5c274f34a62b2863b3b2

https://preview.redd.it/feqs5x3lk9ah1.jpg?width=1920&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7649bff866002e13c9d59384916529c61929655b

https://preview.redd.it/bpynlx3lk9ah1.jpg?width=1920&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=225d57d39ca05905f3733e97e4c9ce7860d3d080

After 1 day of prototyping mount and 2 days of testing I can confirm that on 250x250, 350x350 and 400x400 you will get perfect first layers.

Results:

250x250

https://preview.redd.it/i54cnn7bk9ah1.jpg?width=1920&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6553096b9f00838a304019f9f0d349ebc9b26a6a

350x350

https://preview.redd.it/smfd5r8ck9ah1.jpg?width=1920&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=930a2be43ee003874fd02e678185d0a703ed945b

https://preview.redd.it/gtw15w6dk9ah1.jpg?width=1920&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f7a5a0788dc8f2656ab655c7255a41dee6098136

400x400

https://preview.redd.it/vpn6bqhek9ah1.jpg?width=1920&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d92add3c8ffb32b460568efae9f8e924fcf670d6

IF YOU DECIDE TO USE THIS MOD YOU ABSOLUTELY HAVE TO CHANGE CFG FILES!!!
for example you must change max X from 502 to 496

I used eddy (EddyDuo via USB)
I will contact SOVOL about this because, in my opinion, choice to use eddy with no temperature calibration was engineering mistake and people do notice. I saw posts about first layer issues all around the internet.

If someone want to use this mod here is step file (Print it in PA12, and you need 2 M3 inserts)

EddyDuoSovolMaxMount4.step (99.1 KB)

global.bttwiki.com

Eddy - BIGTREETECH WIKI

https://biqu.equipment/products/bigtreetech-eddy?variant=42480826777698

Hi, I'm wondering if this store called "Sovol Official Store" on ebay is actually the official Sovol store. I'm not very experienced with ebay, and I can't find a link to this store on Sovol's own website, so I'm kinda wary of it actually being the official store. They're also selling Creality products on their page, which makes me even more skeptical. Could someone here confirm it is the official store or not?

Link to the store: https://www.ebay.de/str/sovolofficial

EDIT:

I emailed Sovol and they answered, confirming the ebay store is an official Sovol store:

"Yes, the store you found on eBay is indeed an official SOVOL store.

However, please note that we have different teams responsible for different sales platforms. As our Shopify team does not have access to order details or customer information from other platforms, we are unable to assist with inquiries related to eBay orders directly.

For any questions regarding warranty, order status, or after-sales support for purchases made on eBay, please contact the eBay seller directly through the eBay platform. They will be able to provide you with the specific assistance you need."

Has anyone gotten a self hosted Obico to work on the SV08? What do I need to do? I have already changed the moonraker-obico.cfg to point to my server, but the only way I can get it to connect is if I SSH into the printer and force it to, even then it Obico claims the plugin is offline.

Guys, I can't make up my mind—please help. I want to buy a new 3D printer with a tool-changing system (a minimum of 6 tools is a must) and a print area of ​​300x300 mm (though smaller is acceptable). I already own a Sovol SV08 Max and an Ender 3 (though I’m constantly modifying the latter, so let's not count it). This has raised a few questions for me: 1. Which tool-changing printer should I choose? 2. Is the cost justified? 3. Or should I go for a custom build—like a Voron 2.4—and modify it for tool changing? 4. What are your thoughts on this?

To give you a better idea of ​​the situation: I am an engineering student at an aviation institute—currently pursuing a master's degree—who loves modifying and upgrading machine tools and creating something new. I look forward to your comments and ideas.

Hey all! I'm getting a used SV06 Plus soon and I need a table to put it on, as id rather keep it off the floor. I've seen conflicting information about its minimum table size, as my room is a bit size limited. Would the IKEA Lack side table work? Thanks.