I'd like to hear opinions from people that haven't been sent a machine for testing or are posting for internet points. Is the M1D kickstarter campaign worth investing in? Whats your assessment of the risk? Whats your experience with Sovols previous models? Be brutal.
My local meshtastic group is starting a project to build and distribute "the people's repeater" to our towns and neighborhoods free of charge. We're all relatively new to the mesh scene, so we're looking for input.
- The network is meant to be open to the public. Default settings on LongFast is 906.875 MHz with client and client-mute roles, strategically. Does this seem like the best settings for the general public?
- Can anyone suggest the best way to monitor our mesh with as little backend maintenance as possible? Selfhosting software on a vps is an option, but we're using the nRF chip with no wifi (for power consumption reasons), so we're not sure how to keep a close eye on network health without a direct line to the internet.
- We already have a few farther reaching nodes with better functionality with the plan to add more in the future. Is there a way to "bridge" disconnected clusters of nodes together over the internet?
I was gifted a 1938 Tula (7.62x54r), but it needs a little work. Nothing crazy, but it's missing its bolt. Any suggestions on where to get a reliable used or newly fabricated one?
There has been almost no news since the announcement six months ago. Im cautiously optimistic, but the silence is deafening. Is anyone aware of any leaks or news that Ive missed?
https://www.mrmixer.store/parts/p/bowl-arm-raise-gacyd
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Im attempting to recreate this part, which is notorious for breaking in Kitchen Aid mixers. The plan is to make it out of a harder material. The second link shows an odd curve that im not sure how to measure or plot in autocad. Any advice would be helpful.
Recently it's been a goal of mine to break free from big tech and surveillance capitalism as much as possible, replacing services like Google and sticking to more open source alternatives.
My current projects is building a smart tv replacement using an SBC of some sort. Perhaps turning a dumb tv into a smart one while maintaining complete control of the software. Does the odroid or some other ecosystem fit for this application?
What are the best products and processes for aftercare for rust and corrosion prevention. Im specifically interested in things that would fit my current projects, one of which needs to be cosmetic grade/body safe. The other project is deeper etching for guns. Any suggestions?
Im relatively new to laser marker. The ComMarker website has some suggested settings for thee 20W setup, but not for the 50W. I guess my question is where do you folks get your starting points? The tests I've run have showed me a lot, but i have a lack of scrap and sacrificial material and would like my starting settings to be based on what the community suggests for specific materials. Any advice on how to start would be helpful.
I dont own a filament tester yet, so I'm depending on the TD values listed in HueForge's filament library. Is there a difference between Sunlu's PLA Plus and PLA+ 2.0? I assume the library isn't referring to 2.0.
I'm currently trying to help my dad replace the ignition switch in his riding lawnmower. At some point, he removed the old one to replace it with one he bought from a local dealer.
The problem: the ignition switch connection has an 8-pin connector and the mower's male end has the same connector, but only 3 pins are usable. The rest are blocked off and unusable (see picture). The cub cadet website, Amazon, and the dealer all say this is the correct part, but it can't be.
Also note that the old ignition switch is gone and dad cant seem to find it. He is having cognitive issues so I jave to be forgiving. Id love to compare it to the old part, but its not possible.
Here is all the info I have on the mower:
Cub cadet xt1 13apa1ct056
Enduro series
Lt46
Kohler 7000 series
22hp
