I’ve been using FSD for almost 97% of my miles and have achieved a perfect score of 100. However, I’ve noticed that the savings I’ve accrued from using FSD are negligible, amounting to just $0.00. I’m wondering if this is a deliberate attempt to artificially inflate FSD usage.
I am a DoD civilian PCSing to Germany for 3 years. Planning to buy a Tesla financed through Tesla’s Wells Fargo Auto partnership and ship it as my POV under SOFA with US/USAREUR plates, returns with me, not a permanent export.
TRANSCOM needs a lienholder authorization letter from the finance company before shipping a financed car. I can’t confirm Wells Fargo will issue one, as I’m not a WF account holder yet, so their reps just transfer me around.
I have excellent credit and can finance elsewhere, so if Wells Fargo is known to be a headache on this, I’d rather find out now than after I sign.
Anyone financed through Tesla/Wells Fargo and shipped a POV overseas?
Did WF issue the lienholder letter without a fight? How long did you have to wait, any fees? If you used a different lender, who was easy to work with for an OCONUS move?
Appreciate your help based on experiences in a similar situation.
My 2021 Tesla Model 3 was damaged in a not-at-fault collision while it was parked. The at-fault party is insured by GEICO.
I took the car to a Tesla-certified collision center. The shop says that, as a Tesla-certified facility, it is required to use Tesla OEM parts for the repair. However, GEICO is only willing to pay based on the cost of alternative/non-OEM parts, leaving me with a $1,130.95 difference.
GEICO told me they are allowed to base their estimate on the most cost-effective parts available. The problem is that the Tesla-certified shop says they cannot use those parts and remain compliant with Tesla's repair requirements.
I wasn't in the vehicle when the accident happened and I had no fault in the collision, so I'm confused about why I would be responsible for more than $1,100 of the repair cost.
Has anyone dealt with this before, particularly with GEICO and a Tesla-certified repair shop? Is there a way to challenge the parts determination or recover the difference from the at-fault driver's insurance?
I'm in Wisconsin, if that matters.
I’m currently with GEICO and paying $240/month for insurance on my 2020 Model Y that I purchased last month.
Previously I was paying $120/month for my Civic, and when I called for a quote to remove the civic and added the Y using the vin from the dealership I misunderstood my new premium because of the way the agent worded it, saying I was going to be paying 800-something for 6 months and so, nearly the same price per month. What she didn’t make clear was it was $800 more than my previous rate, which I didn’t realize until I already signed the paperwork on the car during Purchase and was adding it to my policy with my other car.
I started shopping around for lower rates and 240/ month was the cheapest I found still except with Tesla Insurance which is $144.
I want to make the switch but I’ve read some things about driving behaviors/road trips that affect their rate. I understand my rate will fluctuate based on safety/miles driven etc, but should I wait a month until my two small road trips are over before I make the switch, or does it not matter. I’m not sure if it looks at past driving data to determine rate or only will use my driving data once my policy is in affect to determine it.
Any help or suggestions or info would be super helpful.
Soon to be Model Y Performance owner. Curious how good / bad the Tesla Insurance is in California (SoCal specifically). I've read pretty bad feedbacks on here but wondering if it applies to CA as well lol
Yesterday, I hit a pole while backing up near one of those covered apartment parking spaces in an area I wasn’t familiar with. No other parties were involved and the pole is fine. Obviously I’m at fault, but it’s definitely frustrating since the pole was in my blind spot. This is a 2014 Model S without 360 cameras, so I had no idea it was there.
There appear to be at least three damaged areas/panels: the two obvious ones, plus the black trim underneath the door that’s now falling off. There’s also a sensor located exactly where the crush occurred. Funny enough, I don’t remember that sensor beeping at all when the accident happened, but it constantly beeps when I back up now.
I have full coverage through Tesla Insurance and filed a claim within a couple of hours, providing all the requested photos and a description of what happened. I also uploaded the same photos along with a video through CCCIS.
A few hours later, I received an email asking for additional information to “confirm if coverage applies.” The email requested the same information and photos I had already submitted, so I’m hoping it was just an automated request or that the systems haven’t synced yet.
I can see that an adjuster has already been assigned to the claim, but since this happened Friday evening, I won’t be able to try contacting them until Monday.
Is it normal to receive an email like this after an at-fault claim? Should I be concerned that they’re investigating coverage, or is this pretty standard?
Also, any thoughts on whether this could potentially be a total loss, or an idea of how long something like this typically takes? I wouldn’t be concerned with traditional insurance, but seeing people’s stories with Tesla has not been encouraging. The car is still drivable, but Autopark is unavailable, and I don’t feel comfortable using highway Autopilot with that sensor damaged.
At work
Go to my car after work. It's 10:30pm
I'm last one in parking lot for my job
My car has a flat
Don't have my tire pump on me. 12PSI flat
Call roadside - I have "roadside plus" with tesla insurance
The rep says only option is to send a tow truck.
Rep then places me on hold and says "no tow truck available till 7am" says "You are very far from tow truck companies"
I'm in Baytown, TX. 20 min from downtown Houston. 20 miles away from downtown Houston.
Tf you mean "very far"
Hate this insurance with a passion man
I think I’m on hold right now. No music, no ringing, no voice loop, just silence. Anyone else get to live this joyous of a phone call? Should I hang up and try again? Will the call just drop? The first number co-pilot provided was a porn site. Anyway, I’ll update this shitstorm and update the results. I just want to cancel my insurance. I’ve already enrolled with Costco’s American Family Insurance. It was over $200 less for 6 months. Hello…? Anyone…?