
Paddle shifter
Do you know how can I reduce more the space to match the distance of the T598 paddle shifters? I have already removed the spacers

Do you know how can I reduce more the space to match the distance of the T598 paddle shifters? I have already removed the spacers
Has ANYBODY in here had zero faults from the T598. Like anybody's still going strong frequent use after a year?
Come dice il titolo, sto cercando di migliorare la mia postazione, attualmente ho anche la tlcm quindi vorrei rimanere nell ecosistema thrustmaster, quale alternativa potreste consigliarmi?
So che ci sono problemi con il t598 ma avendo letto parecchi pareri negativi qui ho desistito dall acquisto
A Friend recommended me this pair of gloves but idk if the material is good or bad for my steering wheel.
What should I look for when choosing a pair of gloves?
Even though FH6 is an arcade game rather than a sim, it can be a lot of fun, however all the settings I found online made the steering wheel feel like it was submerged in butter. It was hard to get a sense of what the car was doing. It’s much better now, though still not perfect.
My FFB settings for the Thrustmaster T598 in Forza Horizon 6.
Steering wheel settings
FFB 3
Master 80 to 100%
Mode E
Inertia OFF
Boost Low +1
Boost High +1
Speed Mid
Wheel Damper 0%
Game Damper Gain LOW
Spring 0%
End stop MID
In-game FFB settings
Steering Axis Deadzone Inside 0
Steering Axis Deadzone Outside 100
Steering linearity 50
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Inside 0
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Outside 100
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Inside 0
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Outside 100
Clutch Axis Deadzone Inside 15
Clutch Axis Deadzone Outside 90
E-Brake Axis Deadzone Inside 10
E-Brake Axis Deadzone Outside 100
Vibration Scale 0,5
Force Feedback Scale 1.4
Center Spring Scale 1.2
Wheel Damper Scale 1.2
Mechanical Trail Scale 1.00
Force Feedback Minimum Force 1.2
Force Feedback Load Sensitivity 1.0
Road Feel Scale 1.0
Off-Road Feel Scale 0.7
Steering Rotation 720
Steering Lock Multiplier 1.00
Steering Speed Sensitivity 1.00
i wrote all the info in the 2nd video, it also shows more of the items, if you have any questions just ask in the comments 👍
I purchased the Raceline pedals iii as an upgrade from my Logitech pedals hoping they would just be a usb connection, considering it says on the box they are compatible with pc. Nowhere does it say I would need to have a thrustmaster wheel base for it to work. Guess I should have done more research.
I am looking at getting the t.rj12 to usb adapter but it has mixed reviews. Thrustmaster says it isn’t compatible but I can’t see why it wouldn’t work if it has the same connector.
Has anybody tried to use the adapter with the Raceline pedals iii? And if so, what happened? Did it work?
So I purchased a TM T598 earlier this year, and i am now experiencing lots of problems, first the power supply cuts because of loos connectors, so I added tension, but still at times disconnects, then my pedals randomly start to get no input, which is frustrating, and the cherry on top, randomly my wheel will jerk like it losses force feedback for a split second, or sometimes it just stops entirely, and im left guessing my turns as I cant "feel" what the car is doing. please someone help 😭
Hi, is this related to power cable or usb?
Edit 1 : I don’t think it’s due to cable issue since it works all good when I remove and reinstall the wheel alone. I think it’s something to do with wheel alignment.
tl;dr; Random disconnects weren't fixed by replacing the PSU. Real issue was USB port which wasn't properly soldered. I woided my warranty and fixed it myself by resoldering the port.
From the very first day I received my preowned T598 there were issues. After unboxing and mounting it on the Playseat it just wouldn't turn on. After lots of frustrating troubleshooting and couple of different USB cables it finally turned on. I continued to use it with that cable for some time, but there were still random disconnects so I contacted Thrustmaster and they sent me a new PSU since my unit was eligible for a replacement. I also bought a high quality Ugreen USB cable just to be safe. With new PSU and USB cable everything worked fine until I decided to do a FW update over PC (the wheel was previously only used on PS5).
Plugging the unit to a PC resulted in wheel not being recognised by the TM program. I tried multiple USB cables and somehow made it work by holding the connector pushed towards the PCB while running the update. Once updated I connected the wheel back to my PS5 only to discover that it once again won't turn on. In a moment of frustration, I decided that my TM warranty wasn't worth a thing so I opened the unit to fix it myself. After removing the MBO it was clearly visible that pins on the USB connector were still gold in colour which indicates that they weren't properly soldered. Inspection under microscope confirmed that as most of the pins moved freely. Using precision tip on my soldering iron, I soldered all the pins and fixed loose traces and since then there were no issues with my wheel.
So how did this happen?
There just wasn't enough solder paste on the pads. Connector pins weren't making a connection with the paste which prevents the solder paste to flow over the pins leaving them unsoldered and golden in colour. This type of issues are normal, but should be discovered in preproduction batches and the stencils need to be adjusted before massive production.
More importantly, a lack of proper automated optical inspection and QC results in these defective units being put on shelfs and sold to customers.
All this is based on my experience with my wheel, but I feel safe to say that this is not an isolated case as there are a lot of users facing similar issues.
Why does it sometimes work with different USB cables?
My guess is that different USB cables vary in length of the connectors. Plugging a bit longer connector pushes the pins towards the solder and makes a connection. This connection is loose and might get interrupted due to vibrations caused by force feedback resulting in wheel disconnect and player being sent to the shadow realm.
Is this a DIY fix?
Firstly, doing this type of repair WOIDS YOUR WARRANTY!
It is also important to note that I deal with this kind of repairs daily and I possess both the skills and equipment to do it. If you don't have experience with microsoldering, I'd advise against DIY. Therefore you have 2 options, send the unit to TM and hope that they can fix it permanently or take it to a reputable repair shop.
How is Thrustmaster dealing with this?
Based on a huge amount of posts regarding T598 disconnects on this sub, it seems that TM is linking most of these issues to a bad PSU connector. This is a part that they are doing right, they acknowledged the PSU issue and getting a replacement unit is fairly easy. But there are lots of issues related to USB connection, and they haven't made a statement about that. Also, a bunch of users sent their defective units to TM for a repair just to receive them back with same issues. It is possible that all those issues are related to early units and have since being fixed, however lots of defective units were sold to early adopters and fans of the brand, and I don't feel like TM is doing all they can for those customers.
To be clear, I love my T598. It is my first DD wheel, and since the fix I've enjoyed it a lot. T598 is an amazing product, but Thrustmaster needs to do better.
Hey everyone, this is gonna be my first wheel and as you can tell i have no idea what is what. I found this used wheel for suspiciously cheap and was wondering if it's a good pickup. I will mostly play GT7 is this a good wheel?
Recently bought a T598 refurbished from a eBay dealer with 1 year warranty for £250. Within two days started seeing the wheel getting disconnected.
I’ve ordered a 3d printed usd and power cable mount to screw the bit and keep the cables in place.
Due to arrive in 2 days, if that doesn’t work then I’ll return the product for a refund and buy Fanatec gt dd pro. 😤😤😤
Hooked it up to the PC and it works for NFS Heat pretty well but I feel it isn't sensitive enough. Maybe thats why they thrifted it. Was wondering if anyone knows if I can tweek its sensitivity for PC
So I decided that I wanted to change the look of my Ferrari wheel to something a little different so with the help from the guys at SimStickers and Sim Racing Mods they made it a reality 😏 really please with how it’s turned out!
Hi everyone,
Looking for some advice or to see if anyone has resolved a similar issue while I wait for Thrustmaster support.
Setup:
- Thrustmaster T300RS Servo Base
- Formula Wheel Add-On Ferrari SF1000
- Raceline Pedals III
The Issue:
My setup worked flawlessly for a few weeks, but today it suddenly failed:
- Calibration fail: The base only turns left during startup calibration and stops (doesn't complete left-right-center).
- SF1000 screen stays completely black.
- No wheel buttons, steering rotation, or pedal inputs register in the Control Panel test tab.
- Force feedback resistance is felt when turning manually, but software doesn't register rotation.
What I've already done:
Complete driver & firmware reinstall (Firmware 34.00 / Driver 2.11.57.0).
Resolved Windows "T300 Bootloader" Code 28 error.
Power cycled, tried different USB ports, verified PC mode (Green LED).
Windows recognizes it as "Thrustmaster Advanced Mode Racer" with Status OK, but still zero input response.
Has anyone experienced this specific issue where calibration gets stuck turning left and the rim screen stays off? Is this a known Hall sensor/encoder or internal PCB fault?
Thanks for any insights!
Finally, I bought my first proper sim racing setup! 🏎️
Thrustmaster T598 + Playseat Trophy.
A lot of people were concerned about the mounting situation, especially whether the T598 base would fit the Playseat Trophy wheel plate without drilling.
But apparently, Playseat may have quietly released a new revision of the Trophy, because all four mounting holes on my T598 line up perfectly with the existing holes on the cockpit.
I’ve attached photos as proof - all four bolts fit without any drilling or modification whatsoever.
I also wanted to mention the pedals.
The pedals can still technically be mounted using only the two lower mounting points. However, there are additional holes underneath the pedal plate that can very easily be drilled out for M6 bolts.
It took me literally two minutes to drill them, and now the pedals are completely rock solid.
The whole cockpit feels very stable. Another advantage is that the T598 base sits lower than it would if I had used spacers, so the overall driving position works really well for me.
For now, I’m really happy with the setup. ❤️
Now comes the difficult part - actually learning how to drive properly with a wheel. 😂
Thanks everyone!
Hey everyone,
I recently bought a used Thrustmaster T598 and have it mounted to a Playseat Challenge X, playing mostly Gran Turismo 7 and Forza Horizon 5 on PS5.
I’m running into a frustrating issue and finally figured out the exact pattern, but I need help figuring out the permanent fix.
The Setup:
Wheelbase: Thrustmaster T598 (Direct Drive)
Pedals: Raceline Pedals LTE (came with the wheel)
Rig: Playseat Challenge X
Platform: PS5
The Problem / The Pattern:
Everything works perfectly until I have a heavy impact (like dashing/crashing in FH5 or hitting a wall hard). When that sudden jolt of FFB hits:
I’ve had my Thrustmaster T598 for only 4 days. It was completely fine for the first 3 days, but today I started noticing this buzzing/grinding type of noise whenever the force feedback kicks in hard, especially during fast corners or when the car starts sliding.
Firmware is up to date, and I even lowered FFB from 5 to 2, but the noise is still there whenever the wheel is under load.
Does this sound normal for the T598, or should I exchange it while I’m still within the return period?
So when I am racing on my ps5 the wheel keeps disconnecting at random times. has anyone else had this problem. if so how did you fix it.
Update: I found a friend to 3D print the pieces that one of you recommended. And so far it’s working. What a goat
So i just bought a used one t300 rs and the owner said it just kinda falls lower and rubs so i just need to tight the screws on and it will work just fine but when i opened it up it looks like on the pics, any help on assembly?
BTW all metal balls and little metal pieces were on the bottom.