r/ToyotaPickup

Coolant draining from oil pan. The timing guide broke so guessing punctured a hole in cover. I don't have time to fix this for months.

Should I just refill with oil and pour oil over the valves for protection? ...Until I can fix it. I'm not driving this and I already removed the radiator.

Edit: I'm not driving it.

Will a 55411-89109 bezel fit my 1994 Toyota Pickup?
I have a 1994 Toyota Pickup with the 2.4L 4-cylinder, 2WD, and 5-speed manual transmission. I found an instrument bezel listed as OEM part number 55411-89109, advertised for 1989–1995 Toyota Pickups and 4Runners.
I’ve had trouble finding the correct bezel and want to make sure this one will fit before spending the money. Does anyone know if part number 55411-89109 will fit my exact truck, or should I be looking for a different part number?
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

Honestly I was a little impressed with my old 89 2wd(auto) 22re. I loaded 8 totes ranging from about 100-120lbs. It got on the freeway and cruised at 70mph no problem. Is this the heaviest thing I've seen someone put these trucks through? No, but it was nice to find out how capable the truck is. The more I drive it the more I love this truck

As the video shows, I'm having a terrible hesitation in my '87 4Runner - the engine feels like it's about to stall when I give it quick gas. When applying throttle very gradually, it seems to rev up pretty well.

Here's what I've checked to date:

- Checked fuel pressure at rail - 40 psi at idle with vacuum removed, 30 psi at idle with vacuum applied. Fuel pressure does not drop when punching the throttle.

- TPS is fairly new Toyota unit (I performed all the FSM tests, all passed)

- I performed all the AFM tests in FSM, all passed. One small concern is that when I opened the flapper gradually, it did have one small resistance dropout at the nearly fully open position (which I'm thinking does not come into play when just giving it gas like this, but maybe I'm wrong)

- Replaced all vacuum hoses with OEM hoses

- Adjusted all valves to 0.007"/0.010".

I'm not sure where to look next. I'm almost to the point of checking wire continuity from AFM to ECU, or just replacing the ECU. But is there anything else I'm missing that I should look at?

Just done the booking for my truck to be shipped to Colorado, couple of questions for these 22re

-how’s the road salt, I hear they salt the roads, I’m afraid of my truck rusting away more than it has
-should I switch to 5w30 oil, currently running strictly 10w30 in Hawaii and the antifreeze I’m using is Napa green
-is smog strict?
-if anyone wants to hit the trails once I get the truck with CO plates hit me up!

I’m new to owning a 22re. I recently gapped the valves, but they’re making a tapping sound that’s seems abnormal compared to what it sounded like right after the work. Am I overthinking it, or is there something wrong?

Been checking out people’s hassle with Yoshiparts on a subreddit. Anyone buy windows online and have good results?

Any electrical whizzes in here can give me some information on why/if the sense wire needs to be a certain gauge? Apparently the highlighted wire off the regulator is spliced into the charging wire and reads battery voltage. Old alternator managed to melt the harness and i gotta rebuild. I'm sending a new larger 4ga wire to charge the battery from the alt. Ive got a set of connectors that will happily fit 14-20ga wire for the regulator harness. But the sense wire is a 12ga, it wont fit. It's just a sense wire though, should be able to hit battery voltage without issues right?

Where would I find replacements for these broken handles?

Just got a 32/36 installed on a 22r. Filter feels loose, should there be screws in the four empty holes?