r/Turfmanagement

Anyone sad that Jaguar 4G seed is hard to find :(

Hey guys, I've been using Jaguar seed in my front yard for 5 years now. I absolutely love the grass. Very sturdy & germinates well.

Prince corp. Is who sold it mostly & they got auctioned off last year. So buh bye to that seed.

Didn't know if anyone has used the seed & may know of another seed variety that has a similar look & can tolerant good amount of sun.

I'm not a fan of most of the mixes out there. They always have too much of a wide blade fescue.

Jaguar has such a thin blade & it's beautiful when it gets full.

I'd appreciate anyones input.

Taker easy & if she's easy take her twice.

reddit.com
u/Over_Coat_2686 — 2 days ago

New NTEP trial explorer tool

Firstly: this site is 100% free, no sign up required, no ads or affiliate marketing, no data harvesting (just Google analytics to see how the tools are used). We made this site with the sole intention of being genuinely useful with no strings attached.

Figured y'all could get some use out of this. I was frustrated with how basic the umn ntep trial explorer tool was... It was a good step, but it left a lot to be desired.

Won't yammer about the features, the tool speaks for itself.

Happy to hear any feedback (especially regarding any missing data... I think it's all there?), criticisms, or feature requests.

Oh, and while you're at it, there's plenty of other tools on the site that do what greencast does and more... Without paid subscription for the extra features. Feel free to compare the data with greencast, but we have done a lot of testing and we're pretty happy with the accuracy. Made some backend choices (mostly u/arc167) that we feel are improvements, or atleast comparative to how greencast handles weather data.

P.s. messaged mods of r/turfmanagement a few days ago and didn't hear back. But given how fully free the site is, I don't think this is in danger of being considered spam.

lawn-answers.com
u/nilesandstuff — 3 days ago

2 year old Fescue, No irrigation system (Transition Zone)

We moved in September of 2024 to our new build and I’m pretty proud of were we’re at two years in. I’ve only had to drag the hose out a handful of times this year due to the timely rains my area’s been getting. Hang in there everyone, the days be gettin shorter!

u/fussyturbo — 5 days ago

Bermuda football fields

I’m a coach at a small school. I’m told I’m in charge of setting my own irrigation schedules for the game and practice field. They are Bermuda fields. The game field is mowed with a reel mower two to three times a week, the practice field is mowed once a week with a regular mower. How much should I be irrigating these fields in this 100 degree heat? They are getting twice a week right now for 45 minutes/zone. Any help is appreciated

reddit.com
u/Yuki-Karyudo — 7 days ago
▲ 3 r/Turfmanagement+1 crossposts

Rabbits destroying my lawn — prevention + repair tips?

Located in North Texas. Rabbits have become a serious issue over the past month. They’re tearing up my lawn — leaving small patches where grass has been pulled/dug up, plus a ton of droppings scattered around. The worst part... they do it at night so I'm never awake to catch them.

Looking for advice on two fronts:

Prevention — how do I keep them from continuing to trash the yard?

Repair — what’s the fastest way to fix the damaged spots?

Any tips from people who’ve dealt with this would be appreciated!

u/TimeToGoToWork21 — 10 days ago

Weed ID

Don't know what these are, they are two distinct plants:

photo 1 is mostly a problematic producer of spiny little stickers

photo 2 is a viny grass killer with a deep green leaf covered in an almost waxy substance. The trunk lines are a reddish pink

u/What-the-Hank — 9 days ago
▲ 3 r/Turfmanagement+1 crossposts

TTTF/KBG blend or Total Eclipse 100%KBG

In WNY. Originally bought 25lbs of Turf Tuff After Dark blend from Twin City. But now really wondering if since I’m doing a lawn renovation I should just go straight KBG. I have irrigation so water isn’t an issue. Can’t decide 😭

reddit.com
u/Bettycrooked05 — 13 days ago
▲ 5 r/Turfmanagement+1 crossposts

Fungicide Strategy Systemic with Contact.

Hi everyone,

I have a question about fungicide strategy and I'm curious how other superintendents approach it. I'm sure there will be a lot of different opinions.

I'm a younger superintendent and recently took over a course with a pretty tight budget, so I have to be very careful about where I spend money on chemistry.

Here's my question:

Do you always pair a systemic fungicide with a contact fungicide whenever you spray?

I was brought up with that as a general rule. For example, if I was applying something like Banner MAXX (systemic), I would almost always include a contact fungicide like Medallion. That approach made sense, but it also adds a significant amount to the cost of each application.

At my previous courses, the budget allowed us to routinely tank-mix products, so I never really questioned it.

Now that I'm managing a much tighter budget, I'm wondering if that's still the best approach. Is it reasonable to save money by using a single product when disease pressure is low, or is consistently pairing a systemic with a contact worth the extra cost in terms of control and resistance management?

For those of you managing lower-budget courses:

  • Do you routinely pair systemics and contacts?
  • If not, when do you decide to use just one product?
  • Where have you found the biggest opportunities to save money without sacrificing turf quality?

I'd really appreciate hearing how experienced supers balance disease control with a limited chemical budget.

reddit.com
u/Perfect-Progress3357 — 14 days ago

Horrible truegreen experience ,stay away from them!!!!!

True Green is the worst lawn company around, your yard looks even worse after they do whatever they do, the manager of True Green told us to put palletized lime in our backyard and it’s safe for animals, we did we soak the yard as it says on the bag four days later our dog has third-degree chemical burns on his paws and he is going through treatment. Currently this is ridiculous. I would not recommend them for anything. I don’t care if they paid me to come to my yard never again!!!! also when I went to cancel our service today, the manager had already done it,guess he feels guilty but his text to me pretty much said he’s not taking any responsibility.The manager’s name is Norman Young.

u/Mobile_Ask_6038 — 13 days ago

Best scenario?

Hey everyone, looking for some advice on geographic moves and career progression.
I’m currently a 1st Assistant in a major Sunbelt market working at a high-budget, multi-course private club. I’ve been out in the warm-weather climate for a few years, making good money and getting great high-budget experience, but I’m burnt out on the 365-day grind and managing bentgrass in 100°+ heat. My long-term goal is to settle down and land a Head Super job back in the Northeast (cool season).
I’m weighing two different paths right now and trying to figure out the best strategic play:

The Predicament: People often say search committees back East won’t hire a first-time Super straight out of a warm-climate Sunbelt club, and that I need to relocate East as an Assistant first before applying for Head jobs.

Option 1 (Move now): I have a potential lead on a high-paying Assistant position back East with employer-provided housing. It’s in a very rural area (fairly isolated), but it would let me sell my current home, stack cash, and get back onto cool-season turf immediately. My concern: Leaving my current club after just ~1 year might look like short tenure/job-hopping to conservative committees.

Option 2 (Wait it out): Grind out another full year at my current Sunbelt club to show a solid 2+ year tenure on my resume, then apply for jobs back East next hiring cycle.

For those who sit on hiring committees or have made a major regional jump:
Is moving directly from a Sunbelt 1st Assistant to a Northeast Head Super realistic, or do you almost have to be on local turf as an Assistant first?

Does a 1-year stint at a major Sunbelt facility hurt you if the clear narrative is "returning home permanently"?

Appreciate any perspective. Especially if you’ve made similar moves

reddit.com
u/TebuconazoleCoffee — 12 days ago

We spent 18 months on a new course build. Here is why the dirt work always costs more than the grass.

We are AV Golf Design, and we do turnkey golf course construction and master planning, mostly across India and the Middle East. We know posting from a company handle looks suspicious on Reddit, so we will keep this purely technical and skip the sales pitch.

We just wrapped the earthwork and civil phase on a new 18-hole site, and we wanted to share some real numbers because most golfers (and even some developers) have no idea where the money actually goes.

Earthwork eats the budget alive.

The land we started with was relatively flat agricultural soil. To get fairways that roll naturally and greens that drain properly, we moved just over 420,000 cubic meters of earth. That is not an exaggeration. Every contour, every swale, every gentle rise you see on a finished hole was carved out by excavators and bulldozers working 12-hour shifts for months. The fuel bill alone for that phase was staggering.

Greens are built like underground tanks.

A USGA-spec green is not grass on dirt. It is a 16-inch deep engineered structure. We excavate the basin, lay a gravel drainage blanket, install perforated pipe networks sloped to exact fall rates, and then import lab-tested rootzone sand. One green takes about three weeks of pure civil work before the agronomy team even shows up. When you play a green that is firm the morning after a storm, that is not luck. That is a drainage system we spent days calibrating.

Irrigation is a plumbing project at city-scale.

Our last build required 44 miles of HDPE mainline and lateral pipe, plus 380 individual sprinkler heads. Every head is mapped to wind direction, elevation change, and soil infiltration rate. One zone might be pure sand and need high precipitation rates; the next zone is heavy clay and needs slow, low-volume drip. Getting that wrong means dead turf in six months.

Bunkers are money pits and we all know it.

We love how bunkers look on a routing plan. We hate building them. The drainage underneath has to be perfect or monsoon rain turns them into concrete. We use synthetic liners and imported silica sand now, but the construction cost per square meter is still one of the highest on the entire property.

The invisible 60%.

If you are ever involved in a course development, understand that the clubhouse gets the attention, but roughly 60% of your capital is buried underground in earthwork, drainage, retention lakes, and pipe before a single blade of grass is planted. We have seen developers blow their budget on fancy stone facades while cheaping out on the drainage plan, and then they wonder why the 7th fairway floods every July.

We are happy to answer technical questions in the comments about shaping, drainage, or course construction. If we do not know something, we will tell you.

reddit.com
u/avgroupinternational — 14 days ago