r/Victron

Not sure how better to title it, but if I connect the charger as soon as I get home and the cars on or awake or whatever. It will charge.

If the cars been off for a while I need to have the key fob on me to engage charging, so seems like the handshake only happens in an awake state.

The basic travel charger that came with the car does not have this issue.

It’s a Chery Tiggo PHEV.

Not seen anything in the victron app that helps.

I’ve loaded up EVCC as well and the power on connect feature in the hope that presumably full power wakes the car, allowing a proper handshake, but no joy.

Any ideas/suggestions would be great.

Hi

In my boat i have 2 batteries for usage and 1 for starting.

All lead acid, might go lithium on the 2 usage batteries in the future.

Manual switch to isolate the start battery.

Installed a 110w panel to keep batteries topped up as I dont have shore power availible at my dock.

Wired the victron 75/10 to my 2 usage batteries but I also want to use the excess power to help maintain my starter battery.

Should I use a cyrix or orion? Or some sort of trickle charger?

I have a Grand Cherokee and a little travel trailer that we run a 100a/hr LiFePo4 "house battery" for LED lights, phone charging, and a small RV fridge. totally fine for weekends but I am looking at doing a longer trip and am thinking of setting up a charger for the lithium battery, and my question may be super obvious but I cant find any information on it.

my 7 pin harness has a 30amp fused aux pin and I was thinking of installing the DC-DC 12V 18amp Orion-TR smart charger to charge the lithium battery on the highway.

My jeep has a smart alternator, sits at 13V cruising down the highway and only pumps up above 14V when coasting. does the Orion convert the DC to AC and step it up before rectifying it again to get 14.5V required for charging from the 13V coming from the jeep harness? if not, how will the battery charge?

As the titel says. I have a cerbo Gx and i want to use 4 relays .It only has 2 relay output. Is there any way to do it?

Thank you in advance.

Im in the process of setting up a UPS system with a Multiplus ii 48/3000, the intention is to provide a battery backup for my sump pumps in case the power goes out. During some recent rain falls the sump pump is cycling on every 3 min or so, that means if I loose power for 10 min or longer, my basement will flood. The pump continues to cycle like that for about 2 days after a good rain storm before it starts to slow down.

So my question is, for a basic battery backup system using 4x 12V VRLA batteries in series for 48V nominal. Do I need a Cerbo, or a smart dongle to program the Multiplus? Sump pumps are 1/2hp, and controlled by a basic float switch, I dont need true UPS, I can afford a brief drop in power during the switch from grid to battery.

I have tried to integrate openESM in shadow mode (should not write anything to the modbus) with my victron system and something broke. The next day the MPPT would have healthy voltage but there would be no current. The same situation was across all 4 strings. And also the battery would happily discharge but is not willing to charge. It's right now 11% even though my minimum is at 20% and it's still discharging (slowly at -30W but consistently discharging).

I have 3x MultiPlus II, SmartSolar MPPT RS 450/200 and 3 pylonech batteries.

I tried to set the battery minimal soc to 70% and also grid setpoint to 1000w but the battery is still discharging. And the house load is going from the grid (~200w).

I rebooted cerbo and installed the latest firmware but that didn't help.

I'm happy to share more information / full configuration if possible somehow (didn't find that option in the VRM).

I did not install this system myself, but I was studying manuals and I'm trying to learn about the system so that I can extend it later myself.

What is the best way to debug this?

As above, I figure the Orion will draw around 6A @ 48v, so a 10-20A megafuse is required but I can’t find any this small. I don’t really want the expense of a 40A megafuse + updated 10-16mm^2 cable + midi fuse holder and 10A midi fuse if I don’t have to. What is the general work around for this problem?

I have victron system, cerbo, couple of mppt's, multiplus and lynx shunt and distributor. Before I used AGM batteries, and have now switched to a heated 310Ah 12V LifPo4 battery. I decided to go with a heated battery since I am located above the arctic circle and during winter we have long periods of below -10 degrees Celcius.

I was last summer I installed the new battery and made sure I put in all the correct parameters of the battery into my system. My issue is that the shunt pretty soon miscalculates the SOC because some of the power from my PV system is used to warm the battery without the shunt recognizing this. Is there some settings i could tweak for this, or would I be better of using the internal BMS of the battery to monitor SOC?

And if I use the battery internal BMS, would I really need to buy a specific ethernet cable from battery manufacturer or could I use a regular CAT cable from the "cable-drawer" in the attic?

thanks in advance.

I have a popup camper and the converter went out. The cheapest option is to just replace the converter BUT my wife wants to boondock...

I have no idea what I am doing!!!
But I found a Victron MPPT 100/30, a LiTime 12v 300ah and a Victron 15A battery charger.

After a ton of research, I am lost!

I told my wife that it will cost thousands to boondock! For things like a multiplus as well as all the communication devices, wiring, breakers, fuses, etc.

But then I got to thinking... What IF: I only use the 12v system for things like the propane heater/fridge, vent fan, 2 lights, water pump and a 12v USB?
Then I wire Shore power separately to all my outlets. BOOM DONE!

2 systems!
One for when we are at a KOA and the other 12v only.
What could go wrong??? really, what am I not thinking about?

My Victron MultiPlus II has been working perfectly with no issues until recently. Now whenever I connect to shore power, the 30A circuit breaker on the dock pedestal trips as soon as the charger kicks on.

I connected to VEConfigure and lowered the shore current limit from 30A down to 20A, but it still trips every time the charger activates. The inverter side seems to work normally when running from the batteries. I already tried using two different cord connections and the same result occurs.

Things I’m wondering:

Could this be a failed charger component inside the MultiPlus II?

Could the AC input side be causing a surge or fault when charging starts?

Is there a way to test whether the issue is the MultiPlus vs. the dock power?

Are there specific VEConfigure settings I should check besides the shore current limit?

What troubleshooting steps would you recommend before pulling the unit or sending it in?

Thanks!

I'm interested in a MultiPlus for some portable use cases around the house. But the wiring ends seem to be made for stationary installations - like in an RV. I'd like to make it so the MultiPlus can be used as a portable inverter - allow me to use ring-terminal cables to hook up to 12V batteries, and plug in 120VAC receptcables for things like TV's and small fridge. I might use the UPS functions at some point too. So both the charging plug, battery connection, and 120VAC output needs to be unpluggable.

It's been hard to find someone doing that with a MultiPlus. I basically want to make use of the MultiPlus in a more flexible way than permanent installations, like an office UPS + battery charger + portable inverter combined.

I updated my FW on the Cerbo a couple of days ago. Before I did this, wifi connection to the 4g dongle I have in my camper was stable - no losses for as long as I can remember.

Since the update, it's dropping connection which only seems to come back if I power cycle.

It is quite an old unit - serial number HQ2148.

The other issue I've had since the update is a total loss of bluetooth so all my Ruuvi sensors are now offline - hoping to resolve this with a bluetooth dongle.

So I guess question is - has anyone else experienced this, and is my unit too old for the new FW to be stable?

( I did the update so I can use the Mopeka Pro 200B).