



the crackling of the plastic on the temperature control screen
Hey guys, I’m front southern Ontario Canada, looking at buying a 2012/2013 E350 with the OM642 3.0 V6 diesel. I’ve heard good and bad things, I know the oil cooler seal is bound to go, intake swirl flaps are useless, and the emissions are better off gone.
I’m currently driving a RHD TDI 6MT Audi a3 which is for sale if anyones looking for something different.
Are the OM642’s worth buying? Someone give me some tips and advice.
I’ve mainly owned JDM cars, recently purchased a 2021 A6 Allroad that I’ve built up a bit, and today I just purchased a 2011 E350 with 43k miles and 1 owner. Currently still at the dealer getting the curb rash on the wheels repaired and getting a deep interior clean. Everything checked out when I saw it this morning, just looking for opinions from people that have owned this car, pros and cons and what to really look out for. I’ve seen people talk about the motor mounts and timing chains, anything else?
My brother borrowed the car and backed into a wall 😔
I totally understand that these cars have to be driven (with m276 in particular) and low mileage is often not a good sign.
Putting this point aside, what would you recommend to check first of all, in which order - both due to age and mileage?
Car is from 2013, was not doing even 2k per year on avg.
I will be doing full inspection with independent MB specialist, and here are some points I am already planning:
- make sure that it is not in the recall list for rear subframe or any other,
- do full service - filters, spark plugs, engine oil, break fluid, coolant, belt check/replacement, break pads and/or disks
- gearbox oil service (?) if won’t have info about last time work
- differential oil (?) likely needs replacement due to age
- engine and gearbox mounts with any suspension work would be the last in priority unless inspection says different
I won’t be doing all at once, and need to prioritize critical most important work first , any suggestions would be appreciated a lot! Did I miss any other work?
I tried the "reset" procedure already (reset the transmission "habit learn").
After the car has been driving for about 30mins or so, the shifting becomes idiotic; when you slow down, then step on the gas to accelerate, it seems to "gear hunt" and the car shaky.
I thought to myself, ah perhaps a worn transmission mount, or something mechanical, so I switch to tiptronic. No issues with tiptronic.
So it seems this is a software issue?
Also this only happens randomly, usually after the car is warm enough after 30mins or so. Sometimes it doesn't!
Another important thing to note, if this is going to happen, it starts with the car doing a random "arrhythmia heartbeat" that you can feel at a stoplight (on D stepping on the brake, full stop).
Could it be a transmission computer "overheating"? I had a Mazda5 before and one if its issues is the transmission computer being mounted on the tranny bell housing itself, then it gets heated up and eventually gets literally toasted.
Just got a call from the wife that she hit something on her way home as she was pulling out from parking lot. Any idea what this may cost to repair? It’s a 2015 e350 with sports package.
As the title says I’m thinking about trading in my Mercedes e350 wagon for a 2024 Prius limited. I recently took a job offer that would have me going out to California from the Midwest and working all over the state. Work is paying for extend stay hotels because I’ll be bouncing around every few weeks for about little over a year. With these gas prices even here at home it cost $100 to fill up with 91 so I can’t imagine how bad it will be out there and the whole purpose of this move is to make a good amount of money and be able to settle somewhere after. I would get a beater but with all the bouncing around I plan to only bring one car and I want something reliable and safe so while I’m at work the wife can drive it around safely. Obviously the main reason I’m leaning towards a Prius is fuel economy but I also really like the look of the 5th gen and the lane assist would be nice for long drives. I feel like my wagon is the perfect roadtrip car just not for that state and I don’t know if I want to drive a Mercedes in California for safety reasons. I’ve never been to California so you can call me paranoid I’m here for feed back. It will be dog (50lbs pit), cat, wife and I all traveling together will we feel to crammed? Any better recommendations? I also plan to keep it as a daily driver once we move out of California. We plan to only bring necessities we figured 2 suitcases each possibly just 3 for both of us I also have a roof box that I would bring too.
Do you think a Prius is the right move?
I should add that I love my wagon but it does have 100k and would plan to get a newer e36 once we settled.
Hello all —
Writing this on behalf of my husband who’s currently in Syria; I currently live in USA and am planning on taking an OBD2 scanner for our car with me. He’s had issues with others in the past (tech issues, features not working, connectivity issues despite assurance it works for our model of car prior to purchase), and since I can’t really return it after such a long trip if it doesn’t work, I want to be sure that this will work before we invest in a good one.
I figure the best place to start is to come here and see if anyone has firsthand experience with these, ideally with the same model of car - Mercedes e350 w212 (2010)
I appreciate your responses in advance 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
I've always wondered what market these headrests were sold in and how I could get my hands on them, because I can't find any info on them besides seeing them occasionally in videos. I’d kill to have a pair as they look extremely comfortable and look amazing.
Hello guys.
I have to order new disc brakes for my 2012 E 200 CDI.
There are several discs to choose from. 28 or 32 mm thickness & 295 mm or 322 mm diameter etc etc.
It has the Anniversary special with the Classic interior & Sport exterior package. 18 inch rims and dual exit exhaust.
The front discs has drilled holes and the rear discs are solid.
In 🇳🇱, all seasons tyres are most practical.
I want to find all season tyres for my W212 but I cannot find the same models for front and rear, allowed setup with current 18” wheels is following:
Rear: 265/35R18
Front: 245/40R18
Alternative is to downgrade to another allowed 17” setup with 4 x 245/45R17. Then all-seasons are much easier to have from same brand
I have a 2015 e400 4matic w212 with 125k miles.
I gave it a full suspension refresh, installed high flow intake, staggered wheels with performance tires, and im about to install 4 piston brembos.
This car has the twin turbo m276 engine. It makes 330hp 350ftlb torque.
Other variants with this engine like the c43, e43, and 450 models push closer to 400hp.
It would be nice if I could make this car closer to 400hp but I dont want the car to destroy itself. Ideally I would like to get over 200k miles out of it.
Has anyone done a stage 1 tune on an e400 while sustaining reliability? What is my best option for a tune?
I was thinking about piggyback modules like the racechip but those have some mixed reviews about their power gains. I dont want to take it to a shop and want to tune it myself without a dyno. What's my best option here?
Should I do the tune at all or leave it stock? I feel like this car could handle a lot more power but I mostly drive it in eco mode anyway. It is my daily driver.
Hi W212 drivers!
Recently I encountered strange problem with my 2010 W212 diesel.
Happened two times in one month...
first time when I selected reverse and car stalled...check engine light on and this sign on the dash
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSqXd-CZzCA1D5BlC9CKXKrSixXCBcxO4pJMQ&s
after turn off car started normal and drives perfect. Check engine light goes off by itself.
Second time during driving....car goes to limp mode and check light goes on. Went to service to diagnostic and it says somekind of communication error.
What to check? Anyone had same issues?
I recently just bought a 2011 E350 bluetec car, changed battery, starter fuse, and a few other things. It will crank, but it’s like it’s not getting enough fuel to actually fire over. I put new diesel in as well. I hooked up my scanner to it, and saw it was only making 550 PSI in the fuel rail, they need 3000 PSI to start if I’m not mistaken. Would it be my fuel pressure regulator that’s bad? It’s a beautiful car and I’d hate to see it sit.
I have a faultcode regarding the air quality sensor and humidity/temperature sensor. I have looked online at a diagram of where the humidity/temperature sensor lives, and it says it resides near the rearview mirror undernath the cover for the cameras. I took off that cover and i for the love of me dont see the sensor whatsoever. I even took off the overheadpanel and nothing. I know how the sensor looks based off the pictures ive seen online, but im struggling.
In regards to the air quality sensor i have genuinely no idea where it sits.
2009 Pre-facelift w212 sedan.
I appreciate any help.