r/Watches

007 First light Chronograph Seamaster confirmed!
â–˛ 205 r/Watches+1 crossposts

007 First light Chronograph Seamaster confirmed!

The Seamaster Chronograph from the 007 first light video game finally gets an official reveal. There were rumors for so long but they actually finally made it! Pretty cool. I believe this is an omega first as well.

u/DiavoloXJoJo — 12 hours ago
â–˛ 59 r/Watches

[Omega] Grail Status?

Long time lurker. Got seriously into watches about 3 months ago, had since acquired two Rolexes, a santos and now the omega speedmaster. The speedy had been the number one option for me and the second I found an example I liked, I jumped on it. I am very keen to hear your opinions on this watch and specifically the 1861 movement with the haslite crystal.

u/zerothprime — 11 hours ago
â–˛ 7 r/Watches

[Longines Spirit 37mm or Citizen AQ4080] Help me decide over silver/ champagne GADA watch.

Hi all,

I used to own seiko snxs73 years back, I loved the dial but sold due to uncomfortable exhibition caseback. It was so weird to wear it.

I finally decided to get a replacement buy I'm torn between Longines Spirit 37mm Champagne or Citizen AQ4080-52A. Both dressy-casual, my sweet spot.

All opinions welcomed

u/AdSame584 — 10 hours ago
â–˛ 66 r/Watches+1 crossposts

[Omega Speedmaster] NWD: 1973 Speedy.

I've always loved speedmasters, but never really felt like chasing one until I saw this '73 Professional. It came with an aftermarket band (already sourcing a bracelet), repro (repop?) hands, and some bezel wear, but it was a good price and somehow exactly right for my collection. Just serviced, too. All that being said, it's def not perfect, but I love this watch.

u/gmerrick — 11 hours ago
â–˛ 21 r/Watches

[Rolex] 36mm on 7.5 inch wrist?

36mm on a 7.5 inch wrist… thoughts?

Not going to lie, I’m kinda feeling it.

My sweet spot is usually 38 but I think smaller watches are very much making a come back right now.

Also I didn’t really rate this dial at Watch and Wonders, but it actually looks a lot nicer in better lighting.

Currently interested in a Bruce Wayne, Sub (date or no date) then a DJ in either black or mint green.

Great visit experience at this AD in Bangkok too. Very nice team super helpful.

u/SupJoshy — 12 hours ago
â–˛ 86 r/Watches

[Seiko] Discontinued SARB Fumé dials from the 2000's

These are lesser known SARB models from the 2000's discontinued after a short few years of production and were the predecessors to the more common SARB033/035 variants.

u/AudaciousCo — 11 hours ago
â–˛ 11 r/Watches

[Hanhart 417 TI Desert Pilot 39 mm] A two month review

TLDR: a decent addition to a moderately sized collection, but too opinionated as a first/second watch.

It’s been almost two months of owning this piece, I was super hyped to get it once it was announced since I was eyeing ES models for a while (maybe even a couple of years already). I really wanted a Type 20-esque chronograph given how distant its traits are from more popular/hyped watches ie Daytona and Speedy. Also, the fact that some models come with flyback movements was adding fuel to my desire, this is a really quirky detail in my opinion given how it is mixed with anachronistic features such as friction fit coin bezel in one package. Also 39mm is a nice fit for my 17 cm wrist, which is rarely a feature of a modern chronograph - the closest we can get among mainstream offerings are recent glassbox Carreras in 39mm (no flyback tho and retarded lug witdth).
Before my subjective review, a few facts about the place of this watch in my collection: this is the first chronograph I own; this is the first manual wind watch I acquired not through inheriting my grand dad’s 60s-70s dress watches; this is the second titanium (first in Grade 5 - does anyone care about the difference if we’re not talking heavy duty machinery?) watch; this is the first watch with see-through caseback; this is the first “strap-only” watch, although I instantly put my Pelagos 39 on an aftermarket strap. So it sounds like a really diverse addition.
In fact I got almost exactly what I expected. Few neutral things: dimensions are about right for my wrist; the chronograph is well … timing things; it is fun to observe how the watch functions through a caseback (for the first 10 times), although I would trade it for a solid caseback with reduced overall height.
Few positive things: color scheme and overall tone are really nice for my subjective view; so far I’ve bought two straps and they fit the head very well; flyback function could be a cool party trick but I don’t party with watch geeks; however, I won’t be worried handing it over to someone who doesn’t know that “a regular” chronograph should be stopped before reset; winding is super smooth, some ASMR tactile levels.
Few negative things: the watch is not regulated according to my expectation, on a timegrapher it shows +6 to +11 depending on position, which is a good enough variance for a chronometer so it is a shame that the watch was not factory regulated to actually sit within chronometer range; there is a small almost negligible play in pushers, which I guess is fine for any chronograph but still gives me unease; OEM strap is ok but the keepers are ass and barely hold the loose end of the strap; lume is triple ass, they announced it on the website, which is fair, and I don’t actually need it, but at that point why bother applying lume at all?
Overall verdict: I usually keep two watches in rotation for a month or so and I’m wearing this one right now after the honeymoon has ended, so no ragrets - especially since I want to add more chronographs to my collection at some point. But for anyone chasing this particular edition, I would suggest settling on regular issues such as “Moby Dick” or “Reverse Panda” since it will give the same flyback functionality, the option of a closed caseback, and bracelet versatility on top of strap options.

u/kaktusgt — 10 hours ago
â–˛ 81 r/Watches

[SOTC] It's time to get a new box... or replace the MoonSwatch.

7 years after the first watch I've ever bought for my 18th anniversary (the Tissot one), I just filled my box yesterday with the Tudor being my last addition. And yes, buying the MoonSwatch was a mistake.

The true question now is what should be the next one ?

The ProPilot Coulson was my daily driver for the last 2 years and this time I wanted to diversify myself into other brands. But I think it's kinda obvious which one got my heart over the years haha.

u/ItSp4rky — 15 hours ago
â–˛ 161 r/Watches

[The Citizen AQ4100-57C] A Hidden Gem from Japan 🇯🇵

Man this watch looks even better in person. The way the polishing catches sunlight is honestly crazy and kinda hard to capture properly on camera. Been wearing this AQ4100 a lot lately and every time I look at it outside, it just feels super refined. Lightweight, comfortable, insanely clean finishing, and that quiet luxury vibe that makes you appreciate it more the longer you wear it. Definitely one of my favorite watches to just sit and admire lol.

u/Dry-Experience1674 — 15 hours ago
â–˛ 47 r/Watches+2 crossposts

[Poljot De Luxe] Grandfather's old watch

Last year my grandfather passed away, and knowing I was interested in watches, my dad passed his old poljot watch down to me to restore. I got it serviced and, apart from the small crack in the crystal, it's looking good as new. Incredibly thin, easy to dress up, and very sentimental, it's quickly become my favourite watch.

u/Thewardoctor1 — 12 hours ago
â–˛ 36 r/Watches

[Daily News] Omega Releases First Bond Seamaster Chrono; Alpina And Watch Angels Help You Calculate Holding Patterns; Awake Is Getting Better And Better; Trafford Perfects The Crossroads; New Ferdinand Berthoud

It's Thursday and I’ve been avoiding the vast majority of the 007 First Light content because I loved the Nintendo64 version of GoldenEye so much. In fact, I remember it being a bit of an issue — I would rather not sleep than not play the game. So I was hoping to skip the First Light hysteria, but here goes Omega, and pushes me closer to the game.    

If you like these updates, and would maybe like to subscribe to the newsletter so you get them in your inbox every day, you can do so by clicking here.

1/

Omega Releases The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light, Their First Bond Chrono

The Omega x Bond relationship started with GoldenEye in 1995, which means it started with Pierce Brosnan and, for anyone who grew up in the late '90s, it started with a Nintendo 64 controller in hand. I spent an embarrassing number of hours in the GoldenEye game, and the Seamaster on Brosnan's wrist was the coolest watch in the world before I knew anything about watches. So yes, I have feelings about this. The new Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light is launching alongside 007 First Light, a standalone origin-story game from IO Interactive (the Hitman people) and Amazon MGM Studios, due out May 27th, and lauded as a possible N64 GoldenEye successor. It is also, notably, the first chronograph ever worn by James Bond in any medium.

The case is the existing Diver 300M Chronograph introduced in 2019, so no surprises on the architecture: lyre lugs, curved crown guards, a conical helium escape valve at 10 o'clock, ceramic pushers. It measures 44mm wide and 17mm thick, which is a big watch — lug-to-lug comes in just under 53mm. Even bigger. Polished and brushed finishes, sapphire crystals on both sides, and a unidirectional bezel with a black ceramic insert and white enamel 60-minute diving scale complete the package. The only external differentiator from the standard black reference is the caseback, which carries the 007 First Light logo in black metallisation on the underside of the glass. Water resistance is 300 meters.

The dial is all new. The base is the standard polished ceramic with laser-engraved waves, but the sub-dial ring at 3 o'clock gets a PVD bronze-gold treatment, and the same finish carries over to the central chronograph seconds hand. Everything else — indexes, remaining hands — is rhodium-plated with white Super-LumiNova. The Seamaster name is done in red. It's a restrained edition considering the IP it's tied to.

Inside is Omega's calibre 9900. It's an integrated automatic with column wheel and vertical clutch, co-axial escapement, antimagnetic components rated to 15,000 gauss, Master Chronometer certified, and running on two barrels for a 60-hour power reserve. The watch ships on a NATO strap in black, grey, and beige, and Omega is offering six additional game-inspired NATO options separately.

The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light is a special but not limited edition, priced at CHF 7,300 without taxes. See more on the Omega website.

2/

Alpina Teams Up With Watch Angels For First Pilot Chrono That Can Calculate Holding Patterns

Most pilot's watches borrow aviation aesthetics, and we love them for it. Whether it’s a recreation of a vintage pilot’s watch like Laco has been known to make, or a full-on homage to flight instruments like you can buy from Bell&Ross. This new watch from Alpina, made in collaboration with the Watch angels, the Startimer Pilot IFR Chronograph, looks like a traditional pilot’s chronograph, but actually has a novel mechanical complication. This watch will help you calculate how to enter and fly a holding pattern. A holding pattern, for the non-aviators among you (me included), is the oval loop aircraft fly while waiting for landing clearance — one of the more demanding phases of IFR flight, where pilots must determine the correct entry type (direct, teardrop, or parallel) based on their current heading and the inbound course. That procedure has now been translated into watchmaking hardware, which is either the most niche complication in recent memory or the most practically useful one, depending on whether you hold a pilot's license.

The case is 44.5mm wide and 15.8mm thick, built from stainless steel with a bidirectional black ceramic bezel and an anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal. The finishing combines vertically satin-brushed lugs with mirror-polished chamfers, and the lug-to-lug comes to 51mm. The IFR calculation system lives within the case components themselves — a push-release coupling bezel and an inner multi-level turning component that serves dual duty as dial ring and entry pattern calculator. Setting the watch involves two steps: align the inbound course on the bezel, then release and align the heading. The watch then displays the required entry type via color-coded apertures at 12 o'clock: orange for direct, red for teardrop, blue for parallel, along with all the courses and headings needed to fly the hold correctly. Water resistance is 100 meters.

The sunburst blue dial is busy, as any pilot's watch tends to be, but here’s there’s even more justification for it: polished metallic applied Arabic numerals filled with white lume, black hour and minute hands also in white lume, a 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock, a 15-minute counter at 12 o'clock, a running indicator disk at 9 o'clock, and a central orange hand for UTC. The two apertures that display the holding pattern entry type sit just below the 12 o'clock position. 

Inside is the Sellita SW531b column wheel chronograph calibre, beating at 28,800vph with a 62-hour power reserve and 25 jewels. Each watch comes with two leather pilot straps — one light grey, one camel brown — both with stainless steel pin buckles and a quick-release system.

Orders open today, May 21st exclusively through the Watch Angels website at CHF 4,295 with shipping, local VAT, and import duties included. Limited to 300 pieces. See more on the Watch Angels website. 

3/

The New Son Mài Guilloché Main Just Proves That Awake Is Getting Better And Better

The French independent brand Awake has been building something interesting since pivoting away from its limited-edition space-themed releases toward the Son Mai permanent collection built around Vietnamese lacquered dials. I’ve loved pretty much every one of their releases in the collection, but the new Son Mai Guilloché Main is a bit special and a bit fantastic, bringing in a second ancestral technique to the mix: hand guilloché, executed in Italy by the Renzetti family on 19th-century rose engine and straight-line lathes. 

The case is familiar, 38mm wide and 11.5mm thick (10mm without crystal), down from the earlier 39mm by 11.8mm. The concave bezel is pleasantly rounded, the lugs are short, and the case alternates polished surfaces with brushed flanks. The screw-down crown ensures the water resistance of 100 meters.

Each of the three dials is completely distinct. The Sunset features a drape-moiré guilloché pattern from the 1930s — vertical waves engraved by straight-line lathe, then covered in natural lacquer with pink, violet and blue pigments in a gradient. The Alba dial has a helical guilloché radiating from the centre, then sent to Hanoi for sunrise-orange lacquering. The Borealis uses a complex, fluid guilloché with acid green, light green and yellow lacquer layers meant to evoke the Northern Lights. Awake's signature lume treatment carries over from the Frosted Leaf: indices and hands are blocks of SLN BGW9 capped with polished faceted steel overlays, so the luminous material glows from beneath. 

The movement is the La Joux-Perret G101 automatic, which we've seen in earlier Son Mai editions. It beats at 4Hz with a 68-hour power reserve, which beats both the ETA 2824 and the Sellita SW200 on that front. This one also gets a customised tungsten rotor. Each version comes on a colour-coordinated Alcantara strap by Jean Rousseau with Awake's new micro-adjustable pin buckle allowing 3mm on-the-fly adjustments.

Each of the three versions — Sunset, Alba and Borealis — is limited to 200 pieces and priced at €2,650 excluding tax. See more on the Awake website.

4/

Trafford Watch Co. Perfects The Crossroads, Now Much Thinner And With Great Colors

The Crossroads is an important model for Trafford Watch Co. The Austin, Texas brand has built a following on the back of its Americana-inflected design language and Nathan Trafford's obvious eye for color. The newly announced Crossroads S makes the collection even more important in their lineup. Not only does it perfect the retro rectangular case, now significantly slimmer, but it’s also the brand's first Swiss Made watch.

The case comes in two sizes — the Crossroads S 40 (35x36mm) and the Crossroads S 36 (31x32mm) — both 9mm thick, with a lug-to-lug of 46mm and 40mm respectively. You might ask why Trafford calls these models 40 and 36, insinuating they measure 40mm and 36mm, but are actually much smaller… That’s because the watches wear like 40mm and 36mm round watches. I like that communication. Both are made out of 316L stainless steel with a hardened coating. Up top is a double-domed sapphire crystal with an internal anti-reflective coating. Water resistance is 100 meters. 

The dials come in six colorways across three paired sets: Surf and Seafoam in oceanic teal and blue with yellow accents, Fern and Flora in forest green and pink, and Vine and Vellum in white and burgundy with light blue details. Each has a ribbed, sloped central section that casts a shifting shadow as the light changes across the dial, with polished applied Arabic numerals at the hours and syringe hands, both filled with color-matched lume. The result is clean and legible but avoids the trap of being boring. The color-matched lume is a nice touch. These dials clearly weren't assembled from a generic parts catalog.

The movement inside is the Sellita SW210, a hand-wound no-date movement that beats at 4Hz with 42 hours of power reserve. It’s also regulated to ±5 seconds per day. Each watch ships on a color-matched or contrasting Crazy Horse leather strap with contrasting stitching and quick-release spring bars. A full stainless steel bracelet with solid end links, a butterfly clasp, and an on-the-fly micro-adjuster is available for an additional $249.

The Trafford Watch Co. Crossroads S is priced at $899 and available for pre order right now. Go get it, quickly. The Flora, if you ask me. See more on the Trafford website.

5/

Ferdinand Berthoud Launches the Chronomètre FB 2TV Flying Tourbillon, Kicking Off The New Mesure du Temps 1787 Collection

Ferdinand Berthoud has been doing things the hard way since Karl-Friedrich Scheufele revived the brand in 2015, and the watches have been worth it. The inaugural FB 1 won the Aiguille d'Or at the GPHG. The FB 3SPC became the first wristwatch with a COSC-certified cylindrical balance spring. Last year's Naissance d'une Montre 3 pushed the movement architecture somewhere few would dare. Now comes the Chronomètre FB 2TV Flying Tourbillon, the first watch in a brand new collection called Mesure du Temps 1787, named after a treatise on timekeeping published by the historical Ferdinand Berthoud in that year.

The case is 44mm wide and 15.46mm thick, made out of ethical 18k white gold, and takes its shape from the 2020 FB 2RE Remontoir d'Egalité. It's a round watch with two box sapphire crystals front and back, and the portholes that characterized the FB 2RE are gone. 

The hand-wound calibre FB-TV.FC measures 35.60mm in diameter and has 1,240 components, 777 of which belong to the fusée-and-chain alone. The flying tourbillon runs at 21,600vph, measures 15mm in diameter, and has three arms alternating between flat and sloping sections. Its variable-inertia balance uses four 18-carat gold fine-adjustment screws and a Phillips terminal curve spring. The fusée-and-chain has been entirely redeveloped with new geometry and a double superimposed Maltese cross stopwork system, while a differential mechanism keeps the movement running during winding. Power reserve has been extended from 53 to 60 hours and can be wound in roughly 6.25 turns of the crown.

Two details stand out as genuinely unusual even at this level. First: a stop-balance function that halts the movement when the crown is pulled, allowing to-the-second time setting. Second: a coaxial pusher on the crown that resets the seconds hand, either when the movement is stopped or in a flyback mode while the movement is running, enabling short interval measurements up to 60 seconds. These are rare features in a tourbillon. The time display is off-centered with a white varnished dial base, an engraved black varnished minutes track, and a 25.80mm central seconds hand that reads against a white lacquered inner bezel ring. The finish of the visible dial plate is hand-sanded natural nickel silver. The watch comes on a hand-stitched alligator strap with a white gold double-blade safety folding clasp.

Nearly 300 hours of manual finishing per watch, combined with the workshop's capacity, means Ferdinand Berthoud expects to produce 10 to 12 Chronomètre FB 2TV pieces per year, but it shouldn’t be a limited edition. Price is €383,000 including taxes. See more on the Ferdinand Berthoud website. 

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Watch Worthy - A selection of reviews and first looks from around the web

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If you would like to receive some additional watch-adjacent content, as well as this news overview, every morning Monday-Friday in the form of a newsletter feel free to subscribe. However, there is absolutely no need for you to subscribe, as all the news from the newsletter is posted here. It is only if you want to receive a couple of daily links that are not strictly watch-related an occasional long form article and possible giveaways.

u/dreftzg — 11 hours ago
â–˛ 4 r/Watches

[Junkers Bauhaus Automatic] German engineering, one budget

Just wanted to share a quick review of my Junkers Bauhaus Automatic (Ref. 6060-5). I’ve been wearing it on and off for a while now, and it’s a really interesting piece, but definitely has its pros and cons.

The main reason to buy this watch is the simplicity and legibility. For under $300 preowned you are getting a lot for the money.

The cream dial is very clean, and even with the power reserve indicator and the 24-hour sub-dial, it never feels busy or hard to read. On the wrist, the wearability is great. It is very light weight, but the best part is the case design. The lugs tilt sharply downward, which helps the watch sit completely flat and flush on the arm without any awkward gaps at all.

However, I am really not a big fan of the factory leather strap. It feels a bit bland, stiff, and cheap compared to the watch itself. The biggest issue for me, though, is the heavily domed crystal. It looks beautiful and vintage, but it is made of hesalite, so it scratches very easily. If you accidentally bump a door frame or desk, you WILL get a scuff. Mine already has some edge scuffs at 8 and 11 O'clock . I could try to polish it out with polywatch, but it is definitely high maintenance.

Overall, it is not a bad watch at all. It runs a reliable Miyota automatic movement and has great style. But because of the scratch-prone crystal and dressier look, it likely won't be a daily driver for me. It’s more of a specific choice for office days or cleaner outfits.

Anyone else daily a Bauhaus style watch? Did you swap the strap? Let me know!

u/Sukomoto — 10 hours ago
â–˛ 42 r/Watches

[A159WGEA] I traveled to Japan but couldn’t afford a Grand Seiko

When in Rome (Japan) you do as the Romans do (buy a Casio JDM-A159WGEA).

I know that the Casio A-168 is getting all the love, but I how small the dial is and how much the gold pops (and that it’s actually made in Japan, unlike tons of lower-end Casios that are produced in China).

It’s my first Casio and I’m definitely looking to add more to my collection.

u/Rich-Smoke-4873 — 13 hours ago
â–˛ 10 r/Watches

[ Tudor ] Black Bay 58

I have been wearing this Tudor Black Bay 58 for almost five years now. It is still and will be my favorite watch. 39mm case size , red triangle on the bezel and warm tones of gilt dial are my favorite of this watch. I don't mind the rivets on the bracelet and it never bothers me.

u/ZawZaw20Zaw — 10 hours ago
â–˛ 20 r/Watches+1 crossposts

[Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT]

Newest addition to my collection.

My watch collection has fluctuated a lot over the past 18 months.

Managed to get into the luxury space, realised it wasn't too much to my taste and ended up losing a lot of money.

Finally finding my feet as to what I actually enjoy and I have to admit, this CW feels superb on the wrist.

u/bourneidentityy — 13 hours ago
â–˛ 18 r/Watches

[Omega]Speedmaster Hesalite 3861

Bought the Speedmaster 3861 Hesalite on Saturday, and it hasn’t left my wrist since. The look and feel of the Hesalite crystal, the dial, and especially the movement really check all the boxes for me.

The pushers also don’t require much force to engage; they have a bright, positive click. And the little seconds-hand jump from the lateral clutch engagement surprisingly doesn’t bother me that much. Maybe because I mostly use it to time pasta and instant noodles.

The original fabric strap with the deployant buckle had a pretty aggressive taper, which I personally don’t love, so I changed the strap right after I got home. That said, the build quality of the original strap was really good.

The watch wears small because of its short lugs, and it wears thinner than the specs suggest thanks to the case design and how well it distributes its visual weight.

My favorite part of the watch, which I never expected to like this much, is the white-painted hands. They’re legible in literally any environment. Now I can’t stop noticing how hard polished hands can be to read in certain lighting.

u/BULLGOD147 — 12 hours ago
â–˛ 3 r/Watches

[Tissot PRX Powermatic 80] First Watch

I recently earned my professional license and decided now was the best time to start building a watch collection. After extensive research I landed on the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80. Let me know how I did! I have totally caught the watch collecting bug and am already looking for my next watch. Would love to hear any suggestions. Looking for something a bit more casual and was thinking the Hamilton Khaki field watch might be a good choice.

u/Perfect_Oil_4228 — 11 hours ago
â–˛ 19 r/Watches+1 crossposts

[Rado Golden Horse] Crimson and Gold

Probably the most beautiful watch I own.

Rado Golden Horse from the 60s.

36,5mm of diameter.

Slick and thin. Doesn't scream for attention but yet can't get my eyes out of it.

Between classy and casual.

A very good daily for me.

As summer is coming and skin gets tanned, gold is even better.

I'd love to read your opinions about it!

Ps: I don't even like modern Rado watches.. I just like their old models haha

u/Biche_XXX — 15 hours ago
â–˛ 143 r/Watches

[SOTC] Rate my Collection

Hi! I’m 25, just graduated in Singapore, and I started collecting watches back in 2018. Over the years, I’ve slowly built up this collection across dress watches, divers, integrated bracelets, field-style pieces, and a few more vintage-inspired choices.
I’m curious how the community would rank my collection overall. Feel free to be honest — I’d love to hear your thoughts! (rankings, anything you'd sell or buy, what is missing, etc)

u/PoetInitial8385 — 21 hours ago