As posted in title, we just had our well drilled about a month ago and received our water test results back.

Trying to navigate what is needed for a whole home system? From what I read it seems it needs oxidation and filtration possibly? Would a Reverse Osmosis system be useful or not needed?

Any advice/recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Edit: Water Hardness is 47.2 mg/L, I don't know what pH is as the government testing lab didn't report on it.

I live in a 2-3 person household with 3 full baths. Company is providing a 30k grain 1.0 cu ft Clack WS1 and since my city water uses chloramine, I am also getting a backwashing WS1 catalytic carbon tank.

They also did not think a pre-filter is needed for my set up. Is this fine for a city water with no iron concerns? They would otherwise install one for $500 if i wanted to.

Also for the carbon tank, they said the price of a 1.0 cu ft vs 1.5 cu ft catalytic tank is the same price (not sure why) and said I have a choice of either if I wish.

What are pros and cons to getting a bigger catalytic carbon of 1.5 cu ft which is 50% more media than the 1.0 cu ft? They suggest the lifespan is around 7+ years for the carbon media.

Thanks

Hi everyone! I moved into a new apartment a year ago. A couple months after moving in, I noticed a sulfur odor coming from the water in my shower and bathroom sink. It would usually come from the hot water; the cold water would only smell bad if I ran the hot water first. The sulfur smell was intermittent; sometimes it would be really bad right when I turned the water on, and other times it would take ~10-20 minutes to kick in. It would sometimes get worse over time if the water continued running and sometimes go away. I got maintenance to come and they flushed out my water heater with pressurized air (the water was yellow when it came out the first time time), but the smell didn’t go away so I had them order an anode rod and replace it as well. The smell went away for a bit, but I think it’s back now. I’ve cleaned the shower head (and it was recently replaced) and I keep my apartment very clean. Does anyone know what I can do? Thank you!

Title basically.

I am a water plant operator and the I&C tech (self taught, no degree) is leaving soon so I want to get more involved in troubleshooting PLCs, SCADA, Networking and installation of sensors/transmitters/actuators I dont have much knowledge outside of calibration, any tips would be appreciated.

I have well water here in central NC. I have a pretty basic DIY setup with a 50 micron spindown and a single 10" big blue with a 5 micron polypropylene. It has served us well for the last 7-8 years, but I'm wondering if I can make some simple adjustments to improve things.

Clay is our main water contaminant, especially after rain. The PP filter handles this well for the most part. The main issue we see in the actual house is sediment when filling the tub (clay in the house is rare). Whenever we see this, both filters are inevitably clogged and need replacement/cleaning.

Should I perhaps try a different filter on the 10" canister? I know I would benefit from an extra filtration stage, but this requires a bit of re-piping I'd like to avoid.

Potentially dumb idea. I haven't found any guidance on this yet, so I'll try asking you all!

I have a 6" well of unknown depth; ​no records and my 30ft rod didn't hit bottom​, and I'm not equipped to pull the pump.

Issue I am having is iron bacteria. I have disinfected the well a few times over the years, and it feels like it's making the situation worse. I used a test kit to hit concentration, recirculated, etc... and the problem goes away for a few weeks or months, then seems to come back worse.

What I am considering is using a 1,000 gallon water tank I have access to, to backwash the well. The plan is to fill the tank, disinfect the water, wait a few days to let the well recover (if it even does, I've never had a supply issue), disinfect the well following normal procedures, then drain the tank back into the well (at concentration levels).

My concept idea is to get that bleach water into the pack(?) around the bottom of the well and disinfect it. I don't know if this is going to solve the problem entirely, but if it gives prolonged remediation, it might be worth the effort every couple of years or whatever?

Lemme know what you think.

hi i want to buy a reverse osmosis counter top that can give me cold water, and also highly rated on oasis? (if no cold water its okay) i need one for university my budget infinite

I'm a homeowner and I'm hoping to cut through some of the noise for getting a good system for my house. My water hardness is 19 gpg. The first video I watched was a guy saying, 'You can't run that through a filter. You'll break it.' I'm at a loss of what to do for a system if my water is terrible and I just want one system for the whole house. I'm on Indianapolis municipal water. Thoughts?

Hey guys, I’ve been digging through Reddit threads and a community-aggregated product score site to see what people actually like when it comes to reverse osmosis (RO) water systems (you know, the stuff people install under their sinks to cut out chlorine, lead, PFAS, and whatever else).

Here are three models that come up a lot, along with how they actually feel in day-to-day use based on Reddit chatter + sentiment:

1) Express Water Reverse Osmosis System

• Frequently mentioned as a solid entry-level option with a mostly positive vibe in discussions.
• People say it’s straightforward to install and performs well for basic drinking water needs.
• Lots of mentions in threads about replacing bottled water cheaply.
• Downsides in some comments: filter changes and waste water are normal parts of RO systems,  not unique to this one.

Basically great for someone who wants good water without spending a ton or dealing with complicated setups.

2) APEC ROES-50 Reverse Osmosis System

• Often near the top of recommendation lists.
• Redditors regularly call this out for reliability and solid performance compared to other budget/ mid-range units
• It’s a classic 5-stage system,  keeps things simple but effective.
• People say filters are easy to source, which is a big deal long-term.

Basically a set it and forget it vibe for many users

3) iSpring RCC7AK Reverse Osmosis System

• Also gets recommended, especially when water taste and mineral balance matters.
• Reddit threads point out that this one’s remineralization stage can help the water taste less flat (something a lot of RO systems are critiqued for).
• People talk about being able to drink straight from the tap water once this was installed.

Basically a good choice if you care about drinking water taste without extra additives, and you want a balanced profile.

https://preview.redd.it/jji57utej0bh1.png?width=504&format=png&auto=webp&s=0f773da606edee86f739f4d788fc958a2b3e2a63

A few questions I have:

• When you installed your RO system, were you primarily focused on taste, contaminant removal, or long-term maintenance
• Did any of these feel noticeably better/worse than expected after a few months?
• Filter cost and availability. How much of a factor has that been for you in choosing or sticking with a system

Would love to hear real-world experiences since the tech side of RO sounds great on paper, but user experiences differ a lot depending on water quality and installation setup

https://preview.redd.it/ha2d60uej0bh1.png?width=1936&format=png&auto=webp&s=40d726a5ce9cd26e15022abcdd6795a25c58de37

Hello all!

Our current softener (WP WHES33) is on its way out. Looking to replace with something that will protect our appliances and cut down the scale (we are on water heater 3 after 15 years).

25.7 gpg/440k ppm

.30-1.66 ppm chlorine

.02-.14 ppm iron

.013-.051 ppm manganese

7.4-7.9 ph

4 in household

(ranges given as taken from utility report)

Any suggestions appreciated!

https://preview.redd.it/0y72nqpr5uah1.png?width=1232&format=png&auto=webp&s=3023b278a1c35e9d4c1e5dc266c03c93be5648bf

https://preview.redd.it/0y72nqpr5uah1.png?width=1232&format=png&auto=webp&s=3023b278a1c35e9d4c1e5dc266c03c93be5648bf

Hi all,

I'm on public water.

Hardness = 5 grains
Chlorine = 0.4mg per liter

Looking for 1.5 cu for the softener and carbon tank each.