
r/analogphotography

canon giii ql-17 question on battery requirements
Hello!
I’ve always been fascinated with rangefinder cameras and never had the pleasure to shoot with one so I found what looks like a very nice quality canon gii ql-17. However the seller said in the listing that a battery was required to operate the shutter:
“One thing the manual is not clear about however is that the shutter release is electronically controlled, so if there is no battery installed, or if a battery is dead, the shutter will not work. At that point, the shutter release button can be “forced” to be depressed, but then the mechanism is broken, and will require repair.”
I have been unable to confirm this with searching, is this true?
Thank you shooters!
My first real disaster after developing hundreds of rolls of film.
On the one hand, I think the light meter on the Fujica GS645w was completely off yesterday; and on top of that, something went wrong with the development time during film processing.
Up until now, I have always been able to rely on the camera 100 percent.
The film was Fomapan 400 Ortho, which remains valid until 2027 and had been stored in the refrigerator.
I developed the film using Adox HC-110, at 20 degrees with a development time of 7 minutes. The stop bath was 20 seconds—as always—and the fixer was an Adox mixture of 1:7 for 7 minutes; so, everything exactly as usual.
Other rolls from yesterday turned out a little better, but they are also overdeveloped; I have never achieved such a poor result with this film—or with any film, for that matter.
Some of the images on the film are the exact opposite—they are completely underexposed. I suspect that the light meter batteries need to be replaced.
I also can't imagine that the developer is bad, since just two days ago they were still producing excellent work.
Where To Find Analog Portraits Of Everyday People? Portfolios, Online Profiles, Databases, etc
Where do ya’ll recommend I look for portraits of average, random people. Specifically, close up portraits of people that focus on the face itself. Looking for more interesting faces to use as reference.
I know Martin Schoeller, but he does a lot of celebrities and I’m really just looking for people you’d see in the street everyday. I’ve also got a lot of portraits from Internet Archive and yearbooks.
Thank you!
Using Expired Film
I bought this "lot" from a retired photographer at a very cheap price. It's all expired, most dates from the 2000s to 2010s, but seemed like a deal. I'm not used to taking pictures with expired film, as I understand you have to overexpose them. Anyone with experience with expired film? Any recommendations?
Expired Ektachrome advice
Hello!
I have bought a roll of Ektachrome 160T that expired in 1992 for 4 bucks. I never tried a roll that was this old. What should I expect from it? Should I even expect it to produce anything? Should I expose it at the original 160 ISO or try to overexpose it (say at 200 or 400) to compensate for the gel being less reactive after time?
The only experience i have with long expired films is that the red degrades faster than the other colors, giving it a green tint, but it was not Ektachrome
Did my self fully handmade photo book
52 pictures on Fomabrom Variant 111, made with a hand made light mask. All pictures taken with a Canon AE-1 in Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan
Followup: I made a thing (remote trigger for analog cameras)
Quite some time ago, I asked for feedback on a project of mine, because I wanted to extend the functionality of my film cameras.
It was a long ride, but in the end there is now a device, RS1, which allows you to connect your phone to your film camera (mechanical & electrical shutter, Super 8… you name it). At the moment there are some simple modes like a single shot remote, a timer feature, interval, and a mode for film cameras like Super 8.
Because of the last feedback, the device now has a screen, so you can use it without your phone as a remote and control it via that. Maybe there will be a future version without a screen, much smaller. But we will see.
I also fixed the problem of compatibility with different lengths of the pushing pin for mechanical shutters.
This is only a sneak peek — there will be a YouTube video coming soon with more information and deeper insights into my journey.
Should I make this open source? Let me know what you think about it. Cheers.
PS: These are renderings, but the device exists already as a V1 fully functional. No advertisement, i only want to contribute something to the analog community.
Konica Z-Up 140 Super | Ultramax
Had some fun with this 90s point and shoot at Venice Beach Skatepark. Nephew in the shot 🤘🏼
Pentax P3N + Ilford Delta Professional
Camera: Pentax P3N
Lens: SMC Pentax A 50mm f/1.7
Film: Ilford Delta Professional ISO 100
Developer: FA-1027 (1+9) w/acid stop
Time: 6’30”
Scanned negatives using an Epson Perfection V600 photo scanner and reversed images in Adobe Lightroom Classic.
TMax 400 + 3
Pentax 67 | TMax 400 + 3 | Kodak XTol | Band: Krisp
Still seriously loving the look of TMax pushed. Definitely need to shoot it more, love the way it renders light
Portra 160 / Olympus OM-1 / Zuiko 50mm 1.4
Scan with Fujifilm XE-4.
Comments, constructive criticism and even appreciation are accepted 😅. Thank you 🙏
Top of Mt.Isola Rusutsu JP | Fuji Klasse W 28mm + Porta400
Was up skiing and had some awesome light right before the last run of the day ⛷️
Langzeitbelichtung auf ADOX CMS 20 II Film
Da ich nur einen Lee Big Filter mit einem Verlängerungsfaktor von 1000 bei hatte, musste ich 56 Minuten belichten - Das Foto habe ich mit einer Canon EOS 30 aufgenommen, das verwendete Objektiv war ein Canon EF 50mm f/1.8. Der Film war ein ADOX CMS 20 II. Ich habe den Film mit Adox Rodinal entwickelt.
After a Forest Fire #2 – 9x12 Sheet Film
Shot with my Chamonix C45F-2 Camera and a Tominon 4,5/105 lens.
I took this picture on Fomapan 100 Sheet Film and developed it with Adox Rodinal 1+49.
Here, after the forest fire, almost all the trees were felled so that they would rot more quickly.
Easy to use alternatives to CineStill Developers?
So I’ve been using CineStill Duo for color developing, and the monobath for B&W with success. However I’ve read that there may be some better chemicals out there hopefully that are just as easy to find and to use. I already have that CineStill Sous vide machine and two mixing beakers if that helps. I’ve noticed quite a bit of grain with the B&W chemicals.
River View ~ Taken with a 4x5" Camera
Shot with my Chamonix C45F-2 camera and a Rodenstock Sinaron S 72° 5.6/210 lens.
Used with a roll film adapter cassette for 6x7cm prints. The film used was Fomapan 400 Ortho.
I developed the film using Adox Atomal 49.
I think the picture turned out very well.
After a Forest Fire – 9x12 Sheet Film
Shot with my Chamonix C45F-2 Camera and a Tominon 4,5/105 lens.
I took this picture on Fomapan 100 Sheet Film and developed it with Adox Rodinal 1+49.
Here, after the forest fire, almost all the trees were felled so that they would rot more quickly.