![Screen time. [Mamiya RB67 ProS, 65mm f/4.5, CineStill 800T]](https://preview.redd.it/5u3zzocyshbh1.jpeg?auto=webp&s=29cc2d336b34ad713a270c981d76e63647b8adc9)
r/analogphotography
![Screen time. [Mamiya RB67 ProS, 65mm f/4.5, CineStill 800T]](https://preview.redd.it/5u3zzocyshbh1.jpeg?auto=webp&s=29cc2d336b34ad713a270c981d76e63647b8adc9)
Andalucia on Ektar 100 and Colorplus 200
Some shots from Málaga, Seville, Cordoba and Granada (Spain)
Taken on my Olympus Pen EE-2 and processed/scanned by Analogue Wonderland
Really quite pleased with how they've come out as it was only delivered from a China ebayer the day we were leaving
hardcore grain, film technician blames quality of film, Kodak Gold 200/Canon Prima af-8
I'm analog photography amature hobbist since forever and I never seen something like this.
Film technician blames quality of film but I'm not sure if this is the case. Isn't this just a lot of micro dust?
Ektachrome weird issue
Hello Reddit, I come to you in a time of need.
I shot some fresh E100 35mm two rolls from the same batch with an F5 and 58mm 1.4, and send them to a guy that develops E6. Haven't had an issue before, but this time 1/3 of both rolls have these weird curved squiggly lines that in a weird way follow specific patterns of some tones of the film. To the naked eye they look almost like a matte surface of small specs. I've also attached a frame with light reflecting on the emulsion side and next to it the actual photo to demonstrate how it follows the shapes and patterns. I've never seen something like that, and it kind of seems like a really weird issue to be an emulsion defect. Has anyone heard or witnessed something like this before, is it possible that it's bad chemistry or user error in developing and if so how? I have an event I am shooting next weekend, and Ektachrome is my favorite and main film I use, but now I don't know what to do, because these two are unusable. Guy said that he used the same chemistry a few days ago on some 120's and they were fine, but didn't bathe any other with the two I gave him, so we don't have another random person's film as reference.
50 year old Kodacolor-X developed
I got a Yashica C off of eBay that still had a roll of film. After a bit of research it seemed unlikely I could get C-22 film processed. I developed it instead with D-76 developer and ended up with several B&W exposures. No idea who these people are but seems to be early 70s. The building in one was suggested to be the California Capitol. Thought this sub would find some interest that it did develop.
1 month with my Pentax 645N- love
Many different stocks used- many cinestill400D, Portra 160, cinestill 800 and Portra 800. All scanned and developed by me.
How to dispose thousands of 35mm photos
Hi All!
I inherited thousands of 35mm photos. When I say thousands, I mean 10 40 gallon storage tubs full. My mother got into developing her own photos and photography in general so she took pictures of every thing. There are some family photos in the mix but vast majority of pictures of people I do not know. Only good part about filtering through them all is they are from the 80”s but it is a chore.
I may digitize some but the vast majority can be disposed of in my mind. Problem is how? I am superstitious about dumping them in the trash and feel I need to thoughtful with the enviroment .
All suggestions are welcomed and my thanks in advance.
Loading the first film into the camera Nikon fe
I hope everything works out for me.
First roll ever shooting on Film SLR camera
My first time shooting on film on anything other than a disposable camera. Using the Fujica AX-3 on Kodak Gold film. This was a test role to check for light leak. Just ordered a repair kit to patch it.
Do You Have A Mamiya 645 Camera
If you own this camera, please tell us why you chose this camera. Tell us what you like and dislike about this camera. Would you recommend this camera to someone getting into medium film format, why or why not.
Waikiki. [Leica M6, Voigtlander 35mm f1.4 Nokton Classic II, Portra 400]
Taking a photo - Art or a Snap?
I often find myself walking around and seeing a frame or a scene that I like but when I take the picture, it doesn’t live up to expectation. I see an image I want to take but it ends up looking like a “snap” or any old photo you may have on your phone.
I will often lift my camera to my face then change my mind and not take the picture, especially as I don’t want to waste a frame on something that isn’t worth it.
The attached picture for example (Full disclosure, it’s from a digital camera but that’s not the basis of the question) looks great in my head but I couldn’t transfer that into a photo. Maybe someone will say it’s amazing, maybe someone would want to frame it? I doubt it and maybe that’s what stops me taking the picture
How do I lift myself out of this? Is it skill, experience, editing or is it a mindset?
If the answer is Cartier-Bresson’s 10,000 photos then I’ll shut up and keep going!
A spring afternoon in Elizabeth, NJ on 110.
Photo taken on Lomochrome ‘92 110 film using a Pentax Auto 110 SLR and 24mm f/2.8 lens.
FIRST shots on Minolta x700 (50mm f1.4; 28mm f2.8; 135mm f2.8) Kodak Gold 200
Loving this camera! Wish me luck, im still waiting for low light photos that i took with ilford 3200 and candido 800.
Springtime Pastels - [Canon Sureshot 90u ii - Fuji 400]
Testing my new P&S [Canon Prima Mini II, 32mm f/3.5, Gold 200]
What to do with five moving boxes of slides from the 70s and 80s?
These are mostly travel photos from river trips before I was born and some while I was on the trips to Central America. I seem to be in a small portion of the samples that I looked at, but so incredibly overwhelmed with how to even scan these which is why they’ve been sitting in storage for 15 years since I got them. 🤣
I’d love to digitize them and keep them but not sure how feasible that is.
Any suggestions?
C1 film scan feature
I’m wondering if anyone using nee tools in object. Following C1 advices I anyway frequently see tinted vignetting. So I just invert through rgb curve after neutralise wb on negative border using after linear response curve. First picture is with C1 new negative tools, second using “old way”. With Nikon D850 a 60mm 2.8D macro and Valoi 120 with cinestill CS Lite +l