I'm curious as to why this broken trunk gets enough energy to seal itself, whereas a defoliated branch would just die and rot. Is it because it's connected directly to the roots?
Thanks! Any help appreciated.
This oak (I think) in my yard in Maryland has all this apparent damage to the bark near the bottom four feet on one side. I just noticed how bad it looks! One spot is oozing a black slime. There are also apparently wasps that have set up a home in one of the cavities. How bad is it?
Ontario, Canada. New-build house. Tree was ringed with rock, dead leaves for the winter and spring.
We are going to be making a lawn and ring the tree all nice, but we want to make sure we keep the tree safe. And you can see a small offshoot that was cut off.
Any suggestions? Keep digging to expose more roots? Or could we just add a tiny layer of soil or mulch and ring it?
River birch with leaf spot. Swamp white oak with prune at base. I doubt these issues are dooming, but i bought them online and am disappointed in their quality. I usually buy locally, but needed smaller specimens which were not available. Would raising a stink be justified or will these be fine if planted well?
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Hi,
(See attached picture)
My partner and I are First-Time Buyers and we've come across a property we really like, its a mid-terrace property valued at £360k. But there’s one main thing giving us pause: a very large mature tree in the back garden. Home is in South East England.
As you can see, the tree is quite tall—definitely taller than the adjacent house/building—and sits near the back/side boundary of the lawn.
We suspect (or are waiting to confirm) that it might have a Tree Preservation Order (TPO) on it.
As first-timers, we're a bit unsure about what this actually entails long-term, so we'd love to get your opinions and experiences:
Would a tree this size / potential TPO be a dealbreaker for you?
For anyone who bought a house with a TPO tree: How much of a hassle is maintenance? Is getting permission for pruning a nightmare with the local council?
Property/Structural Concerns: Should we be worried about roots near building foundations, drains, or potential storm damage?
What specific surveys should we prioritize if we proceed?
Would love to hear how other FTBs or homeowners view this. Are we overthinking it, or is this a genuine red flag?
Thanks in advance!
Never dealt with large sweet gums but I had to cut up a bunch recently and need any advice or information I can get is this dark center normal for a large sweet gum tree
I live in zone 4b, and I have 7 trees.
One weeping birch
One maple
One plum tree which has leaves but hasn't bore fruit in the past 2 or 3 years
Four ash trees
I live in an old house so these trees are all 40-60 years old as far as I know. The youngest I believe are the ash trees, but those are still at least 30 years old.
I don't know how often and for how long I should be watering them, if at all. Where I live it gets very cold in the winter and very hot and dry in the summer, we get very occasional rain , but it's mostly dry and smokey in the summer.
Devastated after my favorite tree was partially cut down after being damaged from a dead tree removal of another tree. Is there anything I can do to increase its chances of coming back? Or maybe I’m just looking to commiserate as a pregnant lady who has lost half of her favorite tree 😂 Third and fourth photo are how it used to look.
I’m looking for a shadbush and Arbor Day Foundation has them but ships in November.
Can I store this until spring for planting?
I live in CO and we have a very old, large Norway Maple in our front yard that has started showing cracking and bark separation on one side of the tree.
This year has been extremely warm and we are on drought restrictions so we have only been able to water the yard/tree twice a week.
Is there anything we can do for this? Should I be worried about this large branch dying completely and snapping off?
*this is a city tree on our yard but it their automated system is saying time for response/review of the tree is 6-8 weeks
Sapling was planted in May 2026 and have had pretty severe drought the past couple months where it was neglected (we live in Salt Lake City). I am now watering it with about 5 gallons of water in the morning and at night. Is it even salvageable? If so is there anything else I can do to help it?
Hi all,
My wife and I just moved into our new house in the Baltimore area and are working on quotes for a few of the bigger projects in our backyard, including tree trimming. We have a gigantic pine tree that shows some signs of distress - yellowing pine needles, what looks like some sawdust/small wood chipping and some white sap on the ground under the tree.
All of the licensed tree experts from trimming/removal companies that gave us quotes on trimming referred us to a local company for a quote on treating for boring insects - someone from that company had a look and agreed but came back to inspect with their on-staff LTE. That person believes that the tree is dying from metal that was put into the tree sometime in the past(nails or whatever for a tree house? Nothing specifically visible), but the person we plan to hire for trimming work(also an LTE) says that the scientific consensus doesn't support metal toxicity as a likely/common cause for tree death.
My uninformed research online sees support for both positions, so now I'm wrestling with whether to treat for borers and cross our fingers or go straight to tree removal and spend at least $5,000(and remove a portion of fence, but that's not a huge problem, just more cost). I can't get a good feel for how much the contact person's role at the company that handles borer treatment is sales vs expert so I'm unsure of who to trust. What does this community think about metal toxicity killing trees?
Thanks in advance!
**EDIT** for added photos. Sounds like everyone's in agreement, but I worry it's too late for successful borer treatment anyway, I wish the contact guy hadn't dragged his feet so much.
Newbie here, and stoked to get a microscope for my upcoming birthday! But I want to get one that is best for my interests: grass seed, tree sap, and soil. Thoughts on what to get?
Hello! I am a new manager for the tree and shrub department at a local garden center. For a little backstory, the longtime owners sold the business last year to some people who, and I can't stress this enough, absolutely don't know what they are doing. I'm in charge of taking complete care of the thousands of trees, shrubs, and various other live materials we carry.
I am new to understanding container appropriate fertilizers for these plants. In the past, the owners had used Apex Cool Weather Special 21-7-6 with GAL-XAe ONE and 21-3.06-4.98. They typically did one application a year on all deciduous and evergreen trees.
Recently I was informed that Apex does not produce this fertilizer anymore and I am tasked with finding a replacement for it. We currently reside in a zone 5b high desert area where the winters can be unpredictable. If we have leftover stock, we generally will store it outside in a wind protected location.
The new owners have been suggested to use the Osmocote 21-4-8 12-14 month release.
I am skeptical about it because there seems to be key differences between the two and I just need professional input on whether this would be a smart alternative or a huge mistake. Thoughts? Suggestions? I'll take any guidance at this point. Thank you!
