What causes this? The teeth are super worn down. I was running my brushed Gorgon on some medium grass and it started making a grinding noise. The pinion had come off despite some red Loctite and this is my spur gear.
It's a cheap and easy repair, I just want to avoid doing it again in the future.
Front diff shot, I guess that will happen with giant MT tires and 4s power on a 665 Typhon. Somehow the rear is still intact for now. Metal diffs are on their way.
Hi all just got me self a arrma Mojave 4s just for some fun at work. What battery’s you all running I only have a 6s 3s and a 2s battery lol.
Looking for a good 4s uk based cheers
Looking for a battery to put in a new Kraton 6s? Any suggestions
Just bought my first Arrma!
I chose Fury 223s and like it!
I've already went for a short ride on gravel road and that's a great car! As I supposed rear wheel drive is harder to control but I do believe that it adds more fun!
I was choosing between full wheel drive and rwd. Rwd was cheaper and that's why I chose it.
Specs
HOBBYWING max10 140amp 4s combo
0.1~sec/60deg 21kg servo
GRP wheels
It's lifted about 5-25mm (depending on 85 or 100mm wheels)
SCORCH titanium skid plate
ARRMA steel 57t spur gear/slipper clutch
GPM motor mount
A rally tune
and a few other small updates
It doesn't have rally tires because the ground is so hard and dry that is basically concrete with a bit of sand on it in the summer
And the is in good condition the pictures are just bad im not selling it because is old or bad i still drive it a few times a week and the tires are almost new
And car at a similar msrp sell for about 200 the 450 depending on the condition
New ones at my country are about 650 to 800$ It will come with spare for all of the upgrades I made and the files for them are available
I can’t imagine how a Vorteks could be abused to cause two ESC bullet connector solder joints to fail.
There is even solder splattered on the inside of the body and on the differential inside the car.
The car has only ever been run with genuine Spektrum G2 3S 11.1V 5000mAh 50C hard-case LiPo batteries.
As far as I understand, the battery itself cannot force excessive current through the ESC; the ESC determines the current draw.
The car is only two weeks old, and I’ve only run about five or six packs through it. It also hasn’t been bashed particularly hard.
Does this look like a warranty case to you?
Yes, I plan on going brushless 3-4s max. Probably see what 2 and 3s feels like and try to stick with whatever can last the longest without over heating.
Did the hobbywing 1080g2v2 esc cus I had it in a tt02 along with the radio and receiver just so I could see if it was any better. I also stole my castle sidewinder esc fan and added that to the brushed esc.. the volt meter thing was already on the hobbywing esc from the previous car it was in and wanted to keep using it. I like it. The digital color green believe it or not is seen the best while in the sun. The yellow is the worst. The esc is no longer the heat bottle neck like it was before only letting me drive for literally 60 seconds before It was hot to touch. Now the motor is the heat bottle neck but I can get like 2 or 3 minutes now lol. I just don't wanna catch anything on fire yet. I'm taking it kinda easy with light jumps and light grass use for seconds at a time.
Can't wait for brushless and whatever other stuff I need along the way. Not sure what the goal hear is but I just wanna be able to bomb around my yard for at least 10 minutes before worrying about checking the heat. Maybe I'm asking too much? Low 2000s kv motor and 120amp esc on 2s and 3s.
i've been playing around with the idea of picking up an Infraction 6s for a while now... was digging around after getting home from the bar and saw that they are doing a sale! guess who just ordered their Infraction 6s?
with the Infraction 6s not in stock on amazon as of late, the only place to get it is from their site(s). with the discount i was able to pick up four 3s lipo's AND the truck for what the truck alone would have cost me from their site. done deal.
Got some full sends in this morning. Was hitting triples (and also the tree lol). My steering is worn and loose so I need to get that fixed so I can keep a straight line easier.
Anyways, I'm having issues with the ec5 connector popping out. I know I'm full sending it but even doing small jumps it wants to pop out. Anyone know why that would be and how to fix it?
After the third jump the motor cut out and wasnt wanting to turn the wheels. It was super choppy. Got it home and pulled it apart (only live like 3 mins from the park). It's definitely the motor. Did I just get the motor a bit too hot? I'm pretty new to RC so I've never had that happen before either.
Trying to decide between a few RC cars and would appreciate any recommendations or opinions.
I’m currently looking at:
Arrma Outcast
Arrma Kraton
Traxxas X-Maxx
Traxxas XRT
8s or 6s?
I’m looking for something that has a good balance of speed, durability, and all-terrain capability. I mainly want to drive on gravel, grass, dirt, and rough terrain, and I want something that can handle hard bashing without constantly worrying about breaking parts.
I’d also like something that’s good for jumps, flips, and general abuse, but still fun to drive fast. For those who have experience with these, which one would you recommend and why?
Thanks in advance.
Replacing this shaft but am unsure how to get this u joint apart to get the screw into secure the axle.
Was ripping on the grass today with my new Talion and suddenly I only had FWD. Inner bearing is gonzo and the raceway is stuck in my bulkhead. Gears also got a little wear on them in that short burst too.
What a weird thing to have happen. Oh well, I’ll file a warranty claim and get it all dealt with. No worries, all part of the tour. Happy bashing guys!!!