r/autorepair

Pretty much what the title says. I had a mechanic work on my car -not only was the issue not fixed, but the car was worse after picking it up.

I tried to have him re-check his work, but he kept saying it must be another problem with the car.

It took me paying for a diagnoses of the first mechanics work at another shop to get confirmation that the first guy installed at least one wrong part and could have damaged the car if I had continued driving it.

The original mechanic continued to deny that he made a mistake, but finally accepted a refund on the wrong part and refunded me.

However, the car is still not running right, so he hasn’t fixed the issue. I’m assuming it’s the other part he put in, since I now realize how absolutely clueless he is with more technical repairs.

I want to approach him about the fact that the car is still not running right, and even ask him to potentially return/refund that second part as well.

However, he has gaslit me so much throughout this process, on top of being unwilling to double check or warranty his work or the parts.

I would like to get the remainder of my money back since he didn’t resolve the issue, and now I have a $650 useless part I’ve paid for, not including labor.

I’m going to need to start fresh with another -more reputable - shop.

Any advice on how to handle this very uncomfortable situation appreciated!

2002 Chevrolet Trailblazer LTZ - Inline 6 Cylinder.
Little over 100K miles.

My father's car.
His battery died and was replaced, which birthed two issues.
First his duel climate control zones broke, driver was cold, shotgun was hot.
I fixed this by resetting some fuses.

MAIN ISSUE: Turning on AC at idle causes the engine to drop RPM and die.
When revved up to about 1,000RPM or so, and then the AC is engaged, the system works stable. Engine stall only happens at low RPM (idle).

I can see the AC compressor turn on, spin a few times, and then turn off, the RPMs drop and usually the engine cannot recover.

Thought maybe the throttle body was the issue, not enough air into the engine to compensate for the extra load at idle. I took the airbox off and cleaned the throttle body, at the same time I unhooked the battery and waited, reattaching it so the regulator can re-learn idle.

No luck. Still dies. This is either a bad AC compressor, or a bad throttle body. I'm out of troubleshooting steps so that's why I'm here. Any help?

Before

After

Airbox off

Assistant

Key is frozen in ignition so I need to replace the ignition lock cylinder. My question is how is it that I can find the part coming complete, with new keys for 250 and its OEM. Yet through napa its not original and would cost 950. Am I missing something?

I have a 2018 BMW 330e, which has been pretty good to me. Sometimes when I go on longer trips my car will be at full operating temperature and the temp will slowly go down to all the way cold, stay there for a bit and then go back up to normal operating temperature. it does this process at the same speed that it normally would warm up. just in reverse. I've checked the coolant I checked inside the car everything looks okay in the engine from what I can tell and I'm imagining this is just a sensor. There's no check engine light. I asked my local AutoZone to read the codes on my car but they said there's no check engine lights so they don't think they'll find anything they basically refused it was really weird. Car runs fine, has full power and like I said it doesn't do this when I go on trips from like let's say home to work. It just does it on really long trips. Is this normal behavior? I looked in engine and checked coolant levels, I recently got my coolant pump and bracket fixed with brand new parts from a BMW dealership.

I called Firestone and set an appointment to do the sensor they made me wait till next week cuz they said they were busy today and I can only go in on the weekends. I know that there are a few sensors I should change now that my car is at 90,000 miles so any advice would be appreciated maybe I can get them to do them at the same time.

Was driving home at 2 am on backroad and my headlights all the sudden turned off. I stopped the car and put it in park, then they came back on. I made it home just fine, but how do I even check this? The lights seem to be good now, but there are no streetlights on these roads, and it's deep in the woods. I just don't want it to happen again. It was freaky. 1998 Grand Marquis

My Kia Forte 2012 has rusted brake lines that leaked. It's not covered by a recall. I had the car towed on Monday June 29 to the a repair shop's parking lot after talking to the repair shop staff the week before.

On July 1, we had rain flooding areas of the city. The shop was closed on July 1 and 2 for a holiday. I called on Friday July 3 to ask about the flooding, she said the water didn't touch the underside of the cars. They will work on my car on Monday July 6.

Saturday evening I went to look at my car. It was no longer in the parking lot. I could see through the garage door window that it was now inside their garage with the car doors open and with 2 fans blowing.

I suspect they will not tell me my car got wet inside during the flood. I'm not sure what to do come Monday.

Hoping someone can help me out, had to get a jump from my accord because it would start, went to oreillys, battery is fine, but despite receiving charge from a ram 3500 it just wouldn’t start, twice the starter would click once, then it would give a whirl or two but never get past that. Currently it refuses to charge and the entire vehicle has no power whatsoever. What could be the issue?