I have a 2007 Honda CRV ex. I want to take advantage of the warm weather while we still have it. Should I replace these now, or can I wait until spring? I have no long trips planned and I mostly do highway driving on the weekends only. Probably do about 10,000 km in the next 6 months. I've been hearing a squeal sometimes but not sure if it's from cold starts or what. Thanks all
Hi all,
My wife's 2011 Mini Cooper S Countryman has a flooding issue. I researched it online and it said the sunroof drains and cowl drains might be clogged, so I unclogged them. Now the floor boards are soaked and I can't figure out how to drain it out. I read I had to remove the A pillar to see if the drain hose got dislodged? Or peel back the fender cover and look in there? What would I be looking for if I decide to remove the cover? Anyone have experience with this? I was planning on using a wet vac to suck it up but I don't want it to reappear again if it rains.
Thanks!
Hi all,
My wife's 2011 Mini Cooper S Countryman started running rough and had a check engine light, so I changed the spark plugs. I just changed these like 5 years ago and apparently they are already due again. This time, there is heavy oil saturation on the threads. Am I right to assume that she needs a new valve cover gasket? She's at 176,000 km and to my knowledge has never been replaced.
I've had this can in my garage for like, 15 years. I'm sure it's older than that. Is it still safe to use or should I discard it? There's no expiration date on it from what I can see. I have a 2007 Honda CRV.
Has anyone done this? Should I do the full amount? I read the fee was $25 USD but you had to have $100 USD in the account? I don't want to over-convert because I'll never end up using the remaining USD lol.
I ordered some front sway bar bushings and I asked a local shop to replace them for me. Long story short, they ended up putting the bushings on the rears instead, and threw out my old ones.
I called the shop and they said the parts I provided were for the rear, so they put them on the rear. I said no, the rears are a different part number and that I had ordered the correct ones. At no point did they apologize, they tried to gaslight me saying I ordered the wrong parts and they were asked to replace the provided parts, so they did. They said I could bring it in again and they can check and verify. I'm pretty upset that they're wasting my time with what I thought was a simple task.
So instead of calling me to say I ordered the wrong parts, they went and put them on anyways. How do they know I ordered the wrong parts? They obviously didn't Google the part number on the box. Do shops actually verify customer-supplied parts?
These are the bushings I ordered (https://a.co/d/0drO75fQ) and the kit comes with new brackets. I cannot find replacement brackets for the rear, and the shop threw mine out. What should I get them to do if we can't source out new brackets? There is a pick n pull 1 hour away, should they try there? Or is this on me?
I want to get them to correct their mistake, but what can they do for me if they cannot order new rear brackets? What's a fair suggestion? I don't really want to pay any more than I already have.
Curious what others would do, or what I should say. I think they should make it right and get me my OEM rear brackets back so that my rear sway bar isn't loose. I've already re-ordered a new front bushing kit and new rear bushings, but I can't find the rear brackets!
2001 HD Sportster XL1200S, I am replacing the air cleaner with an aftermarket one and the new breather bolts have a weird banjo bolt hole in the side, whereas my OEM bolts do not. The shank is also a bit shorter and the hollow body hole isn't as wide. Are these aftermarket bolts a better design? Or should I stick with my OEM bolts? Curious what others think. I was just going to use the OEM ones but I am curious if the extra hole is beneficial at all. Seems like it would make an even bigger mess on my knee going down the highway. Lol.
Hi all, some questions about my seated dumbell shoulder press that I've never really given much thought to, until now. Always room for improvement! Before moving up I weights, I want to make sure I'm doing these correctly as I've suffered through some neck/trap/shoulder pain a few times now and it sucks.
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How is my form here? Is the slight curve in my back okay? And is the bench upright enough? Is the path of the dumbbell going up straight enough relative to the bench angle?
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For context, I'm using 45's and I'm trying to tuck my elbows in as I press at a 45 degree angle and trying to use leg drive by keeping my legs tight and on balls of feet. I never noticed the curve in my spine until I filmed but I guess it's just habit. Should I straighten out more? Any suggestions or tips to avoid future neck pain? Thanks!
I was just about to change my fork oil when I realized my forks are different than a normal sporty. There is very limited YouTube videos available for this, but one guy said to remove the handlebars and the front wheel. Is this the correct way or is there an easier way? Anyone know?
Hi all,
First time buying a tube amp, I went with a Vox AC10 for home use. After about 6 months, the amp started to make white noise when on. I tried different outlets, cables, guitars, etc. and the issue remains. I have done some research and it seems the Internet is saying it's either the power tubes or filter caps? I want to try swapping out the tubes first before I explore the filter caps. I apparently need EL84's.
My questions are:
- where do Canadians get their tubes? I'm not sure about ordering from the Tube Store or Tube Depot as they are in USD and shipping is expensive. It looks to be about $60 USD for a pair. Long and McQuade would apparently be $60 CAD for JJ's if they ever get them in, but I don't have one in my town and the closest one is 2.5 hours away. Amazon has them for $78 CAD right now, or $67 for EHX.
- I think I'm leaning towards Amazon, unless someone knows of a better site? Can I trust Amazon?
- should I replace my 12AX7 pre amp tube as well?
I'm not in a hurry, so I don't mind waiting if it gets me a better deal.
Thanks! 🙏
2007 Honda CRV, I had my power steering rack replaced in October ($1,600) and the guys said they did an alignment. When I first got the car back, everything felt really tight and stiff and it creaked during turns. That all slowly disappeared and settled back to it's pre-alignment driving style (non-creaky, pulls to the right). Last weekend (about 7 months later), I finally got under my car for an oil change and checked out the rear end. My questions are:
are these first 2 pics the alignment bolts? Is the shop able to perform a proper alignment with these rusty parts?
what would be the reason for the alignment to be stiff and creak, and then eventually return back to it's pre-alignment condition? Should I be looking at the
is there anything else I can do or replace to improve my handling on the highway? I've tried to attach some pics.
My car has 300k km and would just like to prioritize maintenance this summer. I poked around with a pry bar to check the sway bar, control arms, ball joints, etc but either I did it wrong or it all seems solid to me so I don't know what to replace. Thoughts on the sway bar bushings? (Pic 5)