I have a 2000 xl sportster. My problem is that lately my clutch can change disengaging with almost every gear I change. Like someone is changing the clutch tension between every gear on the road. What can that be?
I was doing the TET and crashed my 690. The impact on the crash pad caused the engine mounting plate to crack.
It can either be fixed on the bike (removing the radiator, ABS pump, etc.) and bent back and welded, or the whole frame can be removed, the engine mounting plate CNC-cut and welded in, the frame powder-coated, and everything reassembled.
The former is obviously faster (about a week) and cheaper (3x I assume). I’m leaning toward this option because I don’t want to wait a month or so for the by-the-book way.
That said, I’m wondering about the resale value. When I sell, I’ll tell the buyer what happened (with photos) regardless of how it’s been fixed — but how would options one and two affect the price?
I got my first bike (83 Magna V45) and the turn signals went from working occasionally to not at all, only the front right running light stays on but goes out when setting the signal for right. I’m thinking the relay could be bad? If anyone has a good yt video that shows what I’m looking for that’d be great or any other tips cause idk what’s wrong exactly and I can’t find anything terribly useful. I have the maintenance manual but the descriptions and pictures are difficult to read.
When I got the bike they did work but now it’s just nothing and I ain’t skilled enough to keep using hand signals, I don’t think it’s legal either.
I’m trying to go 8 over on my sportster, but I can’t get these bolts out literally no matter what I do using an impact, heat and pb blaster, any suggestions ?
Hey guys, looking for some insight on this rattle on my 2006 Honda Rebel 250.
Context on how this started: The bike was heavily overfilled on oil by accident and got really hot, which built up crazy pressure and violently blew the crankshaft snout oil seal completely out of its seat. I took everything apart to fix the leak, but ever since reassembling, I’ve had this persistent mechanical rattle.
I’ve had the flywheel off 4 times now trying to get this right. Here is exactly how it's currently put together:
>The starter sprocket and flywheel were bench-assembled (twisting past the rollers) so everything clicked in right.
>The whole assembly was slid onto the crankshaft snout together on a good woodruff key.
>The main flywheel bolt is fully torqued to spec at 33 lb·ft using a chain strap wrench to hold it.
The engine idles completely smooth and steady with the choke off, but the rattle is super clear at low idle. When I give it gas or pull the choke to speed it up, the noise seems to go away or get masked. Also worth noting: when I pulled the flywheel off one of the times, one of the starter clutch rollers completely fell out like it was loose.
Airbox is bone dry, and the oil didn't look foamy when it originally leaked out. What am I missing here? Did the extreme heat/pressure warp my starter clutch housing, drop an idler gear bushing, or is it something else entirely?
Any help is appreciated!
This normal? The blue kind doesn't do it and neither does the supposedly same stuff in the different style bottle. Looks like an old bottle style and seems off.
2016 fz09
Hello guys if anyone here is active and has the same problem as I mentioned in the title with the forks, in every little hole on the road makes this annoying clacking sound and I can feel something is wrong with the forks especially off road when I was last time on a rocky terain it felt like the forks had no oil at oil inside and just hearing this metal clacking so annoying and so bad feed back from them
Hi everyone,
I have a TVS Apache RTR 160 4V, and the bike is only 20 days old with around 190 km on the odometer. I bought it in my town and brought it to my workplace, and in these 20 days I have used it only about 6–7 days due to shipping to my place. This is just additional context
I noticed some orange/brown discoloration and what looks like rust/pitting inside the silencer outlet. There also appears to be a small opening/spot near the bottom of the inner exhaust section.
I’m not sure whether this is:
normal heat discoloration/oxidation,
a normal drainage hole in the exhaust, or
premature rust/corrosion or damage.
I’ve attached photos of the silencer outlet.
Is this normal for a new RTR 160 4V with only 190 km? Should I take it to the TVS service centre and ask them to inspect/replace it under warranty?
Any advice from other RTR 160 4V owners would be appreciated.
As the title suggests im looking for some answers about my yamaha xj6 head gasket.
Symptoms are a very brown chocolate colour oil.
Coolant level seems consistent and is clean (blue).
No bubbles from an open radiator cap on cold start.
No froth or foam of any kind in coolant or oil.
Oil has a noticeable dark grey shimmer which i am 90% confident is caused by use of mos2 additive.
The bike runs fine with no sweet smells. Just very brown oil colour. (Oil is motul 7100 with 2500 miles)
Does this sound like a head gasket or do I need more regular oil services?
Hello everyone. My interceptor 650 2023 with 19k kms started showing “Check engine light” after a ride in rain.
I thought this was common as it was NOT affecting the working of my bike. Everything is working fine with zero issues.
Now out of curiosity I went to my local mechanic who has a OBD scanner tool. He plugged it in but it was showing nothing, the scanner was unable to connect to my bikes wiring harness. Then he checked the fuse and the ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION Fuse would stop working everytime he would connect the OBD scanner to the port on my bike.
Pulling the fuse back out and reinstalling it without the tool plugged in would fix the bike immediately. But the check engine light would stay on.
Anyone knows anything about this issue please let me know your thoughts.
Wondering if I'll have to split the case.
Motorcycle would not roll in N after a rebuild (unless I pulled the lever). I decided to remove the clutch, at which point it rolled free. I tried to reassemble it a bit looser, and the same thing. No roll.
I now have the clutch basket and plates, the clutch cover, and the chain off the bike, and it moves, so it wasn't a rear wheel bearing, or front sprocket output which spins freely by hand with just a hint of resistance from the weight of the gears.
Is there anything else I can do outside of the case? If it was just the chain, I do have a replacement. If it was the clutch, I have that also. But it wouldn't roll still even after.
I replaced the engine case bearings, and the flywheel spins freely with the proper resistance so I know whatever it is, it is either outside the engine or inside the gearbox itself. Shifting feels perfect too, so I really don't want to have to remove and replace this engine today.
What could I do to narrow this down any further? If it is something inside I will do what I gotta do but how can I make sure I don't split the case for nothing?
Hello again! I’m still trying to get this baby up and running the way I want to, today I tried to wire a starter button, I saw a guy do a bypass method where he simply wired the button to 2 of the prongs on the solenoid and it cranked and I tried the exact same thing when a button came in the mail and it did infact crank, wires and button got warm so I took them off so it could cool and I put it back on and it never cranked again with that button, so I decided imma have to do it the hard way and actually wire this mf, I got a new button from advance auto parts and I know that I need to wire a yellow and red wire to one end but I don’t know exactly what to wire to the other end, I cut a yellow and red wire off of a connector thinking that was the one that led to the solenoid but it ended up just going nowhere lol and I found out I had 2 yellow and red wires (I did end up finding the one that goes to the solenoid) if anyone can help me and let me know what color wires I need to add to the other end of my button that would be extremely appreciated!!! I’m seeing a lot is vids say the white and black and green and black but none of those videos are working on a vt500c and I just wanna know before I screw up. Attached are photos of the wire(s) my button I’m planning on using and the wire I cut that led to nothing(it actually lead to the oem but there was no start button so the wire led to nothing)
My husky had a leaking left fork seal so I thought eh why not do it myself I have the tools. Well I installed it all together and even used my AER pump to make sure the air was good. Pump it’s very stiff when I put my weight on it. Could anyone help me diagnose it it goes down about 1/3 and jumps back up with my weight on it. Is this normal or did I need up?
Please help me
Hi, I'm changing the front pads on my rs660. I (obviously?) can't fit the new ones in like the manual suggests, but I need to remove the calliper to reset the pistons. The manual says I have to bleed the whole line to remove the calliper, but I for the life of me can't figure out why I should. Am I dumb? I just want to unscrew and move them 3cm off the rotor to do the job. Thanks
Hello, yesterday I tensioned the timing chain on my YUKI SM 125 (same engine as Suzuki GN 125, 157FMI). I tensioned it probably wrong, without seting the piston in any position, even thou the manual doesnt say to put it in to any position.
Today I went on a ride and after a while it started to feel like if there was no fuel/no spark, started squeking, and then locked up the rear wheel. I stopped, and after a minute I started it back up and it acted as if nothing happened. It happened about 2 more times before I decided to head back home after about 2 miles/3 km. I rode home with very little to no throttle and pulling in the clutch as much as possible.
I thought it could be happening because of too much tension on the timing chain, so I completely removed it and reajusted it 1 milimeter back and put it back in.
Then I went on a test ride but It happened again, no power, squeking and locked up rear wheel.
I dont know where to start looking for solutions, I dont think it has anything to do with fuel/air. The only thing I did was tighten the cam chain and put a bigger chain sprocket in the front (on the engine).
Thank you for any thoughts on the problem.
My Chinese motorcycle i kid you not will not start. No lights no nothing. Had it for a while. I’ve always had to bump start it which is annoying. So I got a new battery thinking mine was dead. Still nothing. Connection is good on the battery. Read somewhere to check the fuse. Checked the fuse. Looked fine, but got a new one anyway. Replaced it. Still nothing.
What could it be? It’s irritating because i am trying to sell it.
Got my 2017 R6 professionally dyno-tuned. The bike has about 16k miles, and I've always kept up all basic maintenance meticulously. Everything was good for one weekend. I went to a meet, revved the engine, and the check engine light came on; now it has this loud ticking sound. Scanned the ECM, and the code was for "EXUP servo motor circuit", code 194. I cleared it and ran the bike, and it didn't come back. The tick has always been there, but it used to be MUCH quieter. The attached video is what the ticking sounds like. Is this just the infamous Yamaha tick, or is this a lifter tick, or what?
Ive bought a cbr400rrn that hasnt run in over 20 years. Im gradually cleaning and rebuilding the carbs.
The bike has an unbranded aftermarket can on it. It appears a little sooty inside the outlet. When i open the airbox, it had a K&N air filter in there.
The carbs are running main jets that are stamped '.110' that i take to mean is a 110 jet. The slides have Dynojet needles that have the e-clip on the second groove from the top.
The fuel mixture screws are only 1/2 a turn out from fully seated.
From what i have read none of this is right for a std nc29 or a dynojet setup.
I havnt got all the seals etc to try and make it run yet, but id like to get it close upon assembly.
Does anyone habe any base settings?
2018 Kawasaki Versys X 300 has a slightly slow idle. Seems that my idle screw makes no adjustment when adjusted. Are my throttle cables routed incorrectly? ChatGPT says it is but I’d rather trust internet strangers. Thanks a bunch!