Just removed from a 2003 Honda Nighthawk 750. I tend to keep the choke open a little longer than I would like. Spark plugs were in for about 6 months. Gap unchanged from install Gap. Lean or just about right?
Hey everyone,
I’m hoping someone with experience on the Honda Shadow VT1100 can point me in the right direction because I’m stumped.
The bike had been sitting for several years before I got it. I’ve been slowly bringing it back to life.
So far I’ve:
Removed and thoroughly cleaned both carburetors.
Cleaned the jets and passages.
Installed a new fuel pump.
Verified the bike starts and will idle.
Adjusted the idle speed to a steady idle using the remote idle adjustment knob.
Current symptoms
Starts without much trouble.
Idles indefinitely and never stalls while just sitting.
Fuel pump clicks every few seconds while idling (not continuously).
The moment I begin opening the throttle, the engine bogs and dies.
It doesn’t matter whether I snap the throttle open or roll it on slowly—the result is the same.
I also get some popping from the exhaust.
It's a marauder 250 K6, I believe the timing chain might be loose due to the tensioner being stuck, anyone got a clue ?
So basically the bike has been slipping/jumping in 2nd gear only
I’ve notice it usually happens when the bike is tipped over but it still does happen when straight
Clutch plates have been replaced but the issue still persists
Bike mileage is about 32,000Km
Any ideas what could cause this?
I was poking around and saw that this cable connecting to the carb was loose. I think there may be a piece missing as it wont sit tight. Any insight is appreciated
Hello, I do not know if this is the correct subreddit for this but I want to start getting into motorcycles. Not just the anatomy of it but also learning how to ride so that in the future I can make for example custom mods on a future bike knowing it all at the back of my hand.
However, I have watched a RevZilla video and Im still confused and my youtube searches just show how to ride a motorcycle and not a "Motorcycle 101" type of video that explains it all like how I see those kinds of videos for cars on youtube.
So how do I start?
TLDR: I want to learn the anatomy amd riding a motorcycle at the back of my hand
I recently filled up my Beta RR 50 Tracks gas tank with about 7 l of gas. When I was supossed to put the 2-stroke oil in I accidentaly put a 2.7% mix of coolant. I then rode about 650 m with no problems until I came back home. When i realised it at home I panicked and poured about a 7% mix of 2 stroke oil in the tank to lubricate it. Can I ride the bike without it sezing or something else permanent? I don’t have the equipment and I don’t know how to empty the tank.
I have seen the Motogadget Mo.Unit, Axel Joost modules and other wiring solutions with integrated voltage controls and digital 'fuses' to replace old wiring but they are overpriced imho this Finnish adventure bike owner's solution is by far the most versatile, ambitious and customizable one.
Using open source code and methods mostly.
You simply install the control HUB somewhere on the bike, route all wires to its terminals and software and hardware baked inside of it takes care of the signals. All electronics and logic are baked on a dedicated PCB. Interesting development (he is in the process of making it available as Open Source as well).
https://youtu.be/xM0yZbBjOCg?si=NWEbY8rpaMnXulzj
The 'CTRL-MC Digital Motorcycle Wiring System' is explained in full detail in other explainers on his channel (like this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QElHGgWnjcQ )
Hi all, I recently purchased a 2013 Daytona 675 with about 20,000km. I’ve really enjoyed the bike so far. Definitely one of the favourites of all time.
I took it to the mountains today and tried opening her up a little bit. It doesn’t misfire or anything like that at all. It just won’t rev past 9k rpm. Not the rev limiter kinda sound either. It just hits a wall. It basically holds the speed until I change gears. It’s the same in all gears. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you in advance.
Hey everyone. Just got my first motorcycle, it’s a 1980 Honda goldwing. I replaced the battery today but it still fails to run. I’m thinking ignition coils could be the issue since the bike was sitting in a barn for over a year or so. Hopefully not the carbs. Then again, I’m not entirely educated on motorcycles. Any advice would be helpful. Thank you in advance.
Hey guys just got myself a 2013 tiger800xc. I didn’t check the oil before I left the location and rode it home about 30 Miles. Probably put another ten miles on it this morning then checked the oil to realize it was empty. Rookie mistake, hoping for some encouraging words but really just the straight up truth. Is the bike okay? Put oil in and it runs fine but worried about long term impact.
I’ve been going in circles with mechanics for months and nobody can properly diagnose this. Laying out everything I know in detail hoping someone here has dealt with this before.
The Bike
2016 Kawasaki ZX6R 636, 19,000km. Black and green. Previous owner removed the catalytic converter and fitted an SC Project slip-on exhaust with stock headers. No retune was done after this modification.
Pre-existing Issues When I Bought It
The bike has never hit the rev limiter since I owned it. It just hits a wall around 10-11k RPM — not a hard cut, not a limiter, just stops pulling. Above that it’s like riding into a wall.
It also always ran extremely rich. Standing behind the bike at idle my eyes would burn and the fuel smell was overwhelming. Fuel consumption was consistently 13-15L per 100km which is terrible for a 636.
I also had a DB killer fitted on the SC Project for a while before removing it. This caused significant carbon buildup throughout.
What’s Been Done
After a lowside crash I took the bike to a shop for a full restoration. Here’s everything that was done across two visits:
Visit 1 — New forks, fork seals, fork oil, front axle, both tires, brake pads, full fairings reinstall, throttle body sync, radiator flush with coolant change, full detail. Bill was around AED 12,400.
Simultaneously I sent the ECU to Moore Mafia for a tune. The tune instructions specifically say to remove the O2 sensor. The O2 sensor is still plugged in. I only realised this recently.
Visit 2 — Injector cleaning, spark plugs replaced, secondary air reed valves decarbonized, ABS sensor diagnosed as faulty. Bill was around AED 2,271. Power issue still not fixed after this visit.
Current Symptoms
This is the important part:
In neutral — bike revs freely and cleanly all the way to 11-12k RPM. Zero issues.
In gear under load — hits a wall around 8-10k, RPM won’t climb, and under full throttle the bike actually loses speed rather than accelerating.
Heavy carbon buildup throughout from the DB killer period and rich running history.
On startup when the key is turned to ON the subthrottle actuator makes a stuttering sound during its calibration cycle instead of a clean smooth whirr. This is a known symptom on 636s.
O2 sensor still plugged in despite the tune being designed to run without it.
ABS warning lights and KTRC issues were also present but traced to a wheel speed sensor disturbed during the fork and axle work — new OEM sensor on order and this appears to be a separate issue.
My Current Theories
Three things that I think are working together:
O2 sensor plugged in while running a tune designed for open loop — sensor is fighting the tune’s fuel maps causing rich running, erratic fueling and inconsistent power delivery
Subthrottle actuator failing — the stuttering calibration sound on startup is suspicious. This is a documented failure point on 636s and would explain a specific RPM wall under load. In neutral the engine doesn’t need full airflow so the stuck valves don’t matter as much
Exhaust backpressure from carbon buildup — DB killer used for extended period, lots of rich running, potentially heavily carboned exhaust internally causing restriction under sustained full load
What I Haven’t Tried Yet
Unplugging the O2 sensor — doing this immediately
Disconnecting the subthrottle actuator connector to test whether the valves staying closed is causing the RPM wall
Physical inspection inside the exhaust for carbon buildup
My Questions
Can a plugged in O2 sensor fighting an open loop tune cause power loss and rich running this severe?
Has anyone on a 2013-2016 636 confirmed subthrottle actuator failure — is the stuttering startup sound a definitive sign? Did disconnecting it fix your RPM wall?
Has anyone experienced exhaust carbon buildup severe enough to cause a specific RPM ceiling under load but not in neutral?
Given that the bike revs fine in neutral but hits a wall in gear — does this point clearly to one specific cause in your experience?
Anything else I’m missing given this history?
Bike is in Dubai so options are limited. Already spent significant money at shops that keep treating symptoms without finding the root cause. Trying to properly diagnose before spending more.
TL;DR — 2016 636 never hits rev limiter, walls at 10k under load but revs fine in neutral, rich running history, O2 sensor plugged in despite tune requiring removal, stuttering subthrottle actuator on startup, heavy carbon buildup history. Three shops haven’t found the cause. Help.
Post this in r/Kawasaki, r/motorcycles and r/motorcyclemechanics for best coverage.
Have an exhaust leak behind the slip joint on by Bandit 600. I presume it has rusted away. Can this be fixed or am I better off getting a new exhaust system?
was cleaning my chain and I noticed i have side to side play in the master link on my chain. im assuming that this is really bad and means my chain could come off at any moment. is this fixable or do I gotta buy a whole new chain. im a newish rider so some help on this would be appreciated. is a 2019 benelli bn 125 thanks
I have a 2004 Yamaha Fazer fzs 1000 and it starts fine but the clocks go blank and then come back on.
Also when riding I lose the instrument panel for a second and then back on and the indicators blink for a second
Any ideas where to start looking ?
I have a Vulcan 500 2009 and I can’t seem to get the boot in any farther, it’ll stretch out but just slide back straight to its original position. Any ideas or should I leave it alone
So I’ve got a 1982 Honda CB650 that I’ve been working on as a project but I’ve run into a problem now. I put all new jets in the carbs and have fully soaked all of the carbs in an ultrasonic bath. When I run the bike I can run perfectly at idle when choke is MAYBE 1/4 of the way on, or if i put tension on the throttle when choke is off (Idling around 1200-1500). The minute i release the tension on the throttle with no choke, she dies. Vacuum’s are showing “late valve timing or leak at intake manifold”. What would be the best ways to go about checking what could be wrong? Stretched throttle cable? Cracked boots? Need some advice as I’m not familiar with these at ALL and should have done more research but we all start somewhere…
Hello I'm new to motorcycles. 1978 Yamaha xs110. Noticed what looks like a stress crack near the seal of the tire? Can I still ride or does this mean new tire
This is a mate I’m helping with his bike, sounds like it’s bogging due to too much fuel. I’ve took off the carb and I’m going to check the jets and everything. But I would assume it’s not that, I took off the powervalve cover and made sure it was all okay everything looked fine. I also checked the reeds and they looked okay. The bike is a Husqvarna TE250 2015