r/carquestions

Hi everyone!

I’ve been having issues with my 2008 RAV 4 Limited (standard 2.4-liter four-cylinder) for nearly two weeks now. 06/23 my car would crank but not start and I took it to the shop where they said my car immobilizer system was activated and anti theft prevented the car from starting. For about a week I didnt have any further issues until this Friday when I had another crank no start.

This time I waited 10 minutes to see if it would start and it ran! I was a bit confused but i parked my car and started it two more times without issue. However the next morning it cranked without starting yet again. Instead of trying to drive it I’ve left it alone until the weekend passes and I can take it to a shop.

I checked up on the car today to find the battery completely dead. I cant lock my car through the car door no cranking no start everything is dead.

Any idea what could possibly be wrong?

When I took my car to the shop they ran a diagnostic and didnt see any issues with my battery (which is also only a couple months old). What could have caused my battery to go out?

At first I thought the issue was with my key fob when it was just a crank no start but now with the battery dying completely out of no where (I checked and none of my lights were on) im wondering if I have an alternator issue.

Any guidance is greatly appreciated!!

I recently lost my smart key to my 2018 subaru impreza. I don't have a spare key for it either. I'm told that without the second key they're going to have to do so much more to reprogram it to my car, and Subaru said they'd have to charge me $1400 for it! My insurance says that I can only get it fixed with technology from the dealership.

Is this really my only option? Am I able to get this fixed somewhere else where I don't have to sell my first born child?

I REALLY can't afford all that right now, and I REALLY need my car ASAP!

So my first car I’ve had for about 3/4 months a 2007 Hyundai Veracruz with 280,000 miles on it and drove fine to my knowledge fine. The transmission blew and in total with labor and warranty is 2,500. I also have an offer from a mechanic friend who will sell an 2011 Toyota Camry with 200,000 miles on it and drives fine what do I do?

Every summer in the last few years, we’ve had at least one day where the temperature was 100°F. Consequently, the car temperature would be higher. This has caused a lot of problems with driving since I drive an old car, my parking lot at both work and home have no shade, and I commute long distance for work. I have a windshield cover which works well in 80° weather but makes no difference when it’s 100°. Yesterday, my car was 110° when I was getting ready to go home.

The only thing that seemed to help was to keep the air conditioning off and windows open during the first 20 minutes of my ride which is brutal during a heat wave. The car seems to drive better when its temperature hits below 103°. If there was a store parking lot with shade near my job, I’d be happy to park there and just walk a little farther to the building but I cannot even do that! The town I work in is an industrial wasteland with no shade or tall trees at all!

I don’t think it’s worth it to change any parts in my car since it works fine in normal summer heat (<95°F). I just need to figure out how to manage on those very extreme days. Any tip helps!

Hello, I was just wondering how many miles do I need to drive my car after changing the battery so it can pass inspection? The mechanic said 150+ miles but google says a-lot less.

A little disappointed that this corolla's digital display will show avg speed, mpg, visual cruise control/lane assist, an eco meter thing that fills when you accelerate fast (not completely sure what it is yet), time elapsed, but NOT speed.

I'm gotten used to digital speedometers, so the analog feels a tad bit more slower to read/process in my brain.

I was thinking it might be as easy as guys programming calculators to play video games, but it most likely isn't. So, I was wondering if you guys have recommendations?

Do obdii speedometers lag or drain the battery or anything negative like that? Are iphone apps reliable/lag free, and if so which ones? A HUD? Something else?

Right now it only recognizes IPods for USB aux, any chance there’s is a software update to make it recognize my iPhone? I only ask since there’s no aux port.

I bought a used Civic 2014 1.8 petrol.

When I drive for an extended period of time, my speedometer begins to show wrong speeds, way below my driving speed. After some time, it goes to 0kmh.

I also have an orange check engine lamp, and occasionally I'll get an orange lamp with a steering wheel and exclamation mark on my dashboard. Sometimes it will go into limp mode on a highway, but it resets after the speedometer shows 1kmh at least.

What's the fault here? Did anyone have this problem?

2002 accord, alarm constantly goes off the second I put a new battery into my key fob. removing the battery stops the alarm. How to solve?

okay if i get a mustang what years should i look into getting and what should i know about the car (common issues, maintenance at what mileage, what mileage should i buy it at, etc.)? also are they reliable enough to be a daily car? i’m 20F since that matters for insurance, i dont want to be spending more than 700 a month on insurance and car payment. thanks!

So I have an na Miata with 150k miles. The previous owner garage kept it (so I was told). I’ve had it for almost 2 months, it just arose. Earlier today I drove the car from work and it was perfectly fine, the drive was two hours. I turned the car on, put down the e brake, press the clutch and the shift nob didn’t want to go into any gear whatsoever. It completely works fine when the engine is off however. I turned it off started in first and got going. When I was driving, the only way I was able to switch gears was by pushing it into gear with considerable force. Help would be much appreciated on what to do to make it running properly and smoothly again. Thank you!