So I finally started it...
It’s a 12 x 12 shadow box.
- Roughly 12 hours to design
- 150 stacking layers (no glue)
- Extra 30 floating layers that (need to glue on)
I’m 75 layers in, half way, and just ran out of time this weekend to finish. It’s currently 0.75in thick, and 2lbs (just the cardstock)
This is.. a lot. lol
I have an EA2 and for some reason, the calibration works perfectly fine but when I cut my works, it does not read the lines. I have tried matte stickey tape, white crayon, matte photo top but cuts are still wonky! How to I do this??
My last minute shopping for something to wear on the 4th was hard especially since I wanted something 250 to commemorate the milestone 4th of July. Got lucky that Walmart had everything I needed, gildan cotton shirt in my size, and both red and blue cricut HTV that was also on sale! I don’t use my maker 3 too often but moments like these really feel like a win and make me happy so I wanted to share my small success :)
For background, I'm fairly new to cricut machines. I use a cricut joy xtra. Recently, I got commissioned for some custom stickers, but everytime I go to load up a sticker sheet template, there's a border/frame around the entire template (the gray border around the grid), and I can't figure out how to get rid of it for just a plain canvas. I tried to move my graphics to the grayed out area to see if it would go over, but it just cut the sticker off within the border. Is there a way to get rid of it, or what's the purpose of it? Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you in advance cricut community! Picture attatched below of what my canvas looks like.
Hi,
I have a cricut easypress 2 since december. I use it mainly to sublimate coasters. It all worked really well until I unplugged it and moved it to a different space. Since then all prints come out way darker. I checked it with old and new printed paper and old and new coasters but all have the same result. I tried a temperature of 190 celsius for 40 seconds instead of 205 celsius for 40 seconda. But the issue persists.
I also see some marks on my easypress which weren’t there before sublimating today. I think my easypress is overheating, but it also doesn’t work on a lower temperature. Does anyone know what is the problem and how to fix it?
For comparison I added one of my older coasters (that is the one above or on the left). As you can see the image is darker and the coaster is also yellowish where it should he white.
Just here to say it’s fucking insanity that they charge for a background remover
Remove.bg
I'd like to create custom puzzles for young children using printed images.
The challenge is that the printed image needs to be attached to a sturdier material so that little kids can't bend or tear it easily, but it still has to be thin enough for my Cricut to cut.
My first idea was to glue the printed image onto thin cardboard and then cut it, but I think the paper layer will start peeling off quickly.
Has anyone done something similar? What materials or techniques would you recommend to make the puzzles durable while keeping them thin enough to cut?
Hello there! I got this machine pre used and it’s only ever turned on this far (see video). The power cord is one I got from a silhouette studio machine but it’s the same cord and works totally fine on the silhouette machine. Not sure if anyone has had this problems or could give me some advice on what’s going on thanks.
Edit: solution found! It belongs to the trash gods now Ty for the help everyone :)
I got an explore 5 for wedding DIYs which will require A BUNCH of print the cut situations. I opened it today to start fiddling with it (I have an original joy so I know basic DS and cricut uses) and I CANNOT find any information about the new calibration image. All I see online is the one with the the lines and large squares, but when I go to calibrate it has one small square. I also doesn’t give you options to select if it did a good job or not like I’ve seen with the other image. I’m trying to decide if I need to return it for a replacement or what. Attached below is an image of how my calibration went, it’s not bad but as you can see there is still black left on both the left and right side of the square and I don’t know if that is accurate enough or if its supposed to be right on the line of the square which is my assumption. Please help me while I’m still in my return window 🫣.
Edit: it’s taped down because it ripped and curled when pulling it off of the mat.
Hi I’m new and I’m struggling.
I have an Explore 5. I took it out and set it up, did the test cut, all good and dandy.
Then I decided to just throw a shape on the canvas to play with it some more. I clicked make, did the settings, then hit continue. Then it says “Explore 5 Connected!” Then it takes me back through the setup. I tried again, and it did the same thing.
I called customer service and we tried a bunch of things. The last idea was to update my computer (MacOS) but we ended the call because that was going to take awhile. It worked fine on my phone, so it seems like it’s the design space app on my computer not connecting properly.
Has anyone else had this problem? I’ve attached pictures if that helps.
I’m also not sure why it’s showing as two different machines for when I tried with Bluetooth versus USB. Idk if those machine numbers are sensitive so I blocked them out just in case.
I’m trying to use the print then cut setting on my cricut on magnetic paper but for some reason when I put it through the printer, it doesn’t print fully on the page. The first copy is when I use the settings glossy photo paper on the magnetic sheet. The second copy is when I use the settings copy paper and the third copy is just regular copy printer paper. Why is this happening? I’m using a MacBook Pro, cricut explore 5, and canon mega tank g3270.
I'm normally very bothered hidden size and position dialog boxes that used to be easily accessible but disappeared about a year ago (if memory serves me). I normally design in Illustrator and then save to SVG so I only need to size/position in Design Space - which used to be simple, but now is tedious - the simplest of tasks is now tedious!
Occasionally, if I'm just making a simple text decal of on or two words I'll type it in Design Space in order to cut quickly if I don't need to kern or adjust spacing. Today I was trying to make 3 words on 3 separate lines but wanted the third line text smaller. Whenever I tried to highlight the bottom (third line) word it would highlight the top line and when I changed the text size it then changed the entire box. Is this the normal function? Can you not change a single character or line in Design Space? I feel like I'm using a worse version of Adobe Pagemaker from 1986 - that's 40 years ago and was slightly better than Design Space!!!
i built a little axidraw style plotter simulator that runs in the browser. it's open source on github. just drop in a svg and it will plot it for you, no wasted ink or paper!
GitHub: https://github.com/KilledByAPixel/VirtualPlotter/tree/master
Demo: https://killedbyapixel.github.io/VirtualPlotter/
seriously though, would you ever use this for anything? what other features would you like to see added? i'm thinking about modeling real pens next including limited ink levels, failures, paper types, and other parameters that would be fun to mess with.
Hi! I am looking to make a keychain like this but am un sure of what material to get that is hard enough and not flimsy, but still able to be cut. I’ve seen different types of acrylic and acetate but am not sure which one. Any recommendations will be helpful!
So I used Cricut printable iron on for dark fabric. And my design had light gray (just the default from the colors box) in the print then cut background of a flattened image, when I pressed it on a navy tri-blend shirt, the light gray came out very green when pressed.
I thought using the stuff for dark fabrics was supposed to help prevent that? I guess not entirely, how do I know which colors are going to change?
If I use light blue will that change? Should I just stick to white or black?
I'm new to this so just trying to figure this out without burning a lot of material testing. I guess this shirt can be my test shirt, but don't want to waste expensive printable sheets. Anyone have any advice or experience with this? Appreciate any helpful tips.
Hey all - my son is a QB and we are prepping a bunch of footballs for his school. Part of the process is using painters tape to cover the laces, and these new balls also have the school logo on them. Previously, we've sort of cut/ripped painters tape to cover everything prior to applying mud (yes, actual mud, for those who aren't familiar with the process). I had a lightbulb idea that I could get the shape into MS and then use my cricut to cut. I also came across sheets of painters tape, but it appears to be for 3D printers more than actual "paint" work.
Any recs here? I suppose I could also use vinyl for stencils but the painters tape works so well. My idea was to just cover my mat with tape (overlapping strips) and just cut it that way. Or maybe putting it onto a piece of film so there's a backing?
I’m over on the wedding side of Reddit and didn’t even think to post this on the actual subreddit for Cricut!
I wanted our invitations to feel like a little vintage road trip/national park keepsake, so I decided to make them all myself from scratch.
Was this a sane choice? Debatable.
Did I become emotionally attached to tiny paper mountains? Absolutely.
My wedding is all DIY so this Cricut is definitely getting a workout!
I’m in the learning curve of my first Cricut. An explore 5 that I got for my birthday.
I’m sure I’ll try a print then cut eventually. Until then I keep getting to the Make screens and have to cancel out to go back and change it back to just a Basic cut.
Please and thanks for any advice.
I have had no issues up until today - for some reason the blade will not retract between and after cutting each sticker and its slicing through all of my designs.
I have tried unplugging and turning the machine off and on. I have also tried replacing the blade
Edit: i did a calibration and its perfect except for a couple of the small lines the blade didnt lift between
For my wedding I’m making bookmarks that double as name cards
It will be an acrylic piece with a paper piece held together with a tassel.
What would be the best method to seal the paper bookmark?
