Ironman print with copper finishing
Printed an IronMan helmet - used automotive paint and activated clear coat for blue and electroplated copper for face and jaw.
Printed an IronMan helmet - used automotive paint and activated clear coat for blue and electroplated copper for face and jaw.
I'm trying to do some electroplating at home and trying to figure out what I'd need better than my set up. It's not evenly coating
Wondering if anyone has any experiece replating old watches? My friend has a kit and would be doing the plating but i want to prep it for him. Most things would be like this watch shown. The Watch Case is some sort of brass mix Seiko used. The bracelet is stainless steel. Would I have to pop out the crystal before plating? Im worried I wont find a replacement should It break during replacement. This is an Acrylic "hardlex" crystal most likely as theres some light scratches and Sapphire crystals wont scratch.
Hi everyone, I’ve got some MKs with upgraded brass and gold plated hardware. I’m worried about the hardware oxidising as I heard this can happen with brass.
Does anyone have advice on:
\- The best way to store your MKs/birkins?
\- Any products to prevent tarnishing/oxidation
\- Whether anti-tarnish strips or silica packets help?
Also, if anyone has long-term experience with their gold-plated brass hardware, has yours oxidised? Did you do anything to prevent this?
Thank you!
I recently restored a lighter which was made of brass and I nickel plated it with no issues at all.
Another vintage lighter which I picked up, I began the same sanding and preparation process to nickel plated it but I believe some or all of the parts are made of zinc. Some white rust formed on the sanded part overnight leading me to believe it’s actually a zinc base. There’s are still some plated parts on it which were unaffected from white rust.
Would anyone be able to confirm how I can electroplate the parts if it’s made of zinc and maybe what metal plating is already on the lighter? Thanks
Hallo everyone. I am trying to co-deposit nickel with MoS2 in brass for my master thesis and test it afterwards. I am newbie in electroplating and that sound silly. My problem is that after the first two depositions that last 2 and 20 min, the next two seem like they did not have any MoS2 on them. Is it possible to measure the MoS2 of the bath between the depositions and add the missing in order not to make new bath for every try ?
Any tips appreciated!!
Hello everyone,
There are many positive photoresists available from various suppliers. However, I’m not sure which one is particularly suitable for metal deposition in alkaline or acidic electroplating baths, since almost all of them claim to be suitable for electroplating.
In my application, I first deposit a layer of metal—such as silver or copper—onto a silicon wafer or similar substrate using PVD, then spin-coat the photoresist and pattern it. I then deposit gold via electroplating. The photoresist resolution needs to be below 1 micrometer, with the highest possible aspect ratio and as vertical sidewalls as possible. So, which photoresists should I use?
Additionally, if I use a silicon wafer as the substrate, how can I optimize the adhesion between the PVD-deposited metal and the wafer?
Thank you all.
Has anyone ever gold plated mulberry hardware?
This is a leather bracelet but I’m unsure if the silver part is nickel and the base brass?
Does anyone know the metal?
Sorry if this is a silly question. I’m new to plating.
Thanks!
Afternoon, all! I am doing research for a large project I hope to complete next year, which is 3d printing and electroplating a set of armor for a cosplay.
I want to do this specifically for the feeling of authenticity (as it will feel like metal when touched) and for the durability compared to paint.
The question I have has less to do with electroplating and more to do with achieving a specific color when done. It seems that the metals you can (relatively) easily electroplate at home are not metals that are able to be anodized for colors (like titanium can be). Thankfully, the color I am hoping to achieve is orange-y and could potentially be passed off as anything from orange, brass, bronze and even a brownish color.
I see on Caswell's site that they sell browning solutions, and was wondering if anyone has used them before. I was also wondering if my best bet is plating in nickle or copper, and then browning to a brass/bronze/brown, or if it's possible to electroplate to brass or bronze directly (getting mixed answers on this with google searching). Some people mentioned plating in zinc and copper and then heating it, but I am unsure if the 3d print can handle those temperatures.
Any ideas or advice anyone has would be much appreciated! I have a t on of time before I start to undertake this, and am just doing fact finding at the moment 😄