







$500 swap project
Stumbled onto a cheap donor. Time has come to rebuild this trailer park princess. Its going to be slow but I'll post most big jobs.








Stumbled onto a cheap donor. Time has come to rebuild this trailer park princess. Its going to be slow but I'll post most big jobs.
93 Z28
Ive replaced the opti 3xs
New Fuel injectors
New spark plugs and wires
Adjustable TPS
Water Temp Sensor
Redid all the grounds
Fuel filter
Has 40lbs at turn key at Schrader valve
Swapped PCM with chip swap. Nothing
No CEL but before It did say No Injector Pulse
Coil ✔️
New ICM
So far im at a loss and ready to set it on fire.
I rescued this 94 almost three years ago, it was a no start/crank/rotation situation that we got running again. I've always suspected that I would need to replace the injectors (along with a complete rebuild/replace), but part of the rehab process in '23 was replacing the Opti and water pump with AutoZone units. Opti is vented.
Lately it has been a bit difficult. It will either start up instantly, or I will have to flood the gas pedal to get it to start - and it will then run really rough for a bit then start to be ok. When cold, it will stumble when raving from idle. The last couple times I've driven it though, I've gotten the random shutoffs. It will start back up instantly, though.
That last bit to me says Opti, but what I've seen others say is that theirs don't start back up like mine does. Having to flood doesn't sound like the Opti, but I don't have a lot of experience with this. I think I've put a total of a thousand miles on it in the three years.
I have an oscilloscope, bought when I was trying to get the engine to work again. I just don't have a lot of spare time lately, thought I would ask some questions first.
Thanks for all the advice on getting these 315 to clear. Turns out all I had to do was lift the car from the rear end to keep the axle centered 🤦🏻♂️ live and you learn!
Next up is clear headlights and turn signals and then on to lowering this monster truck an inch or so.
Figured I'd post to document my build for anyone interested.
Tick SNS Stage 2 227/235, 241 heads with .660 springs and trunnion upgrade, FAST 90 w/ 92mm throttle body, bosch 0280155811 injectors, 1 3/4 headers, catted y pipe with cutout, and magnaflow exhaust. Self tuned with hptuners.
I've owned the car since 2007 and finally got around to building it exactly the way I want it. Other mods include ATS Brembo upgrade, bilstein shocks, subframe connectors, LS7 clutch w/ tick speed bleeder, c5/c6 power steering, and late model lighting LEDs. Besides that, just normal maintenance and repairs.
Overall happy with the setup. Scheduled some dyno pulls to see where its at now before I do 243 heads this winter.
406hp/396tq currently, but it was a rich on the dyno due to cat overtemp kicking in (forgot to disable it during the dyno runs).
Was able to go to the tow yard and strip alot of parts couldn't get under the hood or under the car to look to see where the breaks failed but I was barely able to get my hand under to unscrew the break fluid and stuck my finger in it I didn't feel anything. I dont really understand how I could have lost the fluid I recently changed my back drum breaks and i didnt see any leaks and the spot where I park for my apartment is also dry apart from some oil how the break fluid is gone I have no clue my only guess is that the front rubber finally gave out but I changed my front breaks 4 months ago and they looked good. For how bad the crash is im genuinely surprised on how well the car protected me i hit the guard rail on the driver side and that slingshot my into a concrete bridge support on the passanger side. If i had the space to do so I would have dropped it in nutural and hit the handbreak but by the time I realized the breaks were gone I couldn't get back on the highway the exit was boxed in and in about a good 70ft from where I stopped there was a sharp turn witch had no guard rail just those yellow signs and there was a good 15ft drop into a ditch so thats why I decided to put myself into the guard rail.
The amount of people talking bad in the comments is sad this could have turned out alot worse.
Now the gauge is completely on the left after it overheated and theres some smoke and is dripping liquid. Is this a bad sign
Picked up a Dashskins overlay this week. I did a test fit and it's tight!
So tight that I'm worried about it staying down after I install it.
I'm not new to general car repair and using silicone or gasket maker, but this is my first dash.
Should I seal up cracks on the OG dash or just lay this on top?
Any tips and tricks that worked for anyone here?
Thank you in advance
Car has 236k miles and suspension was completely shot
Just finished replacing:
-Upper and lower control arms
-Tie rod ends
-Koni srt.t struts, eibach lowering springs in front
-Koni srt.t coils and shocks in rear
-Brand new bmr front sway bar.
-New rear sway bar links.
-All new brake lines including rubber lines
-Painted wheel wells
-Sandblasted and painted spindles, hubs, and upper control arm plate.
So much work but im so happy with how it turned out so far. Still have to bleed the brakes but this car is going to feel completely Brand new again.
Attached is before and after 😎😎
My mom bought a 1986 Camaro Z28 brand new a loooonnngggg time ago. Back in 2000 she stopped using it as her daily, then it was on and off sitting not being driven until 2005. The last time I can recall it being fuly started was around the 2010’s. My mom passed away a few years ago and the car has since been given to me. Ive been having an internal battle about keeping (attempting restoration) or just getting rid of it.
Ive decided to get rid of it. I need advice on a price point or if it even makes sense to try and get more than junk value. It was kept outside so its been weathered over the years.
Looking for realistic ideas/prices.
Thank you all in advance because im lost.
Idk it all happend so fast. Might try to save it or not ik its just a v6 but it was a ment condition 104k mile no rust and perfect interior
First time using vinyl wrap, unfortunately I bought cheap stuff and I don't think it's going to last very long. Looks sweet though. The pictures ruin the color of this car.
After I drain some fluid and put in new Prestone Dex-Cool orange 50/50 should it be fine? Or is there a bigger issue that I should look into
Dude helped me at the parking lot. He opened it and the coolant came up and he just said I need more coolant. What should I do? V6 btw
Maybe I need a pricing reality check?
Transitioning from winter to summer we realized we didn’t use it as much as we thought.
Let me lead with, I know this thing isn’t a looker, but mechanically it’s nice and tight. I spent months looking for a reasonable priced 6 speed car that wasn’t clapped to hell. I saw rust, leaks, just downright neglect in my price range.
I finally found this unit that was a slow pace project for a guy who stumbled into a WS6 and decided to move it before dumping more money in it. When he started it was an all stock SS with a slung rod. When swapping to a gen 3 he painted the bay Mopar PBM with intentions of going the full car. Unit has a clean title with no damage.
GMPP hot cam, tsp long tubes, aluminum radiator/catch can, hawks master, Texas driveline stage 2 t56 kit, various umi parts, fresh tires, no ac and the fuel gauges dances sometimes.
I’d like to walk away with $6500? Is that too much? Seems like I’ve had tons of trade offers or “I’ll come look tomorrow” with no follow up, and a handful of “$5000 cash money” offers. I can find a dime a dozen 4l60 cars in this range with ‘decent’ paint, but no 6 speeds.