Recommend me the best gaming laptops (no budget limit)
hello everyone, what gaming laptops can you guys recommend? any price will do.
hello everyone, what gaming laptops can you guys recommend? any price will do.
Hey all! First time pc builder here, and it’s gone really well, but my computer just won’t recognize my gpu.
My hardware:
- PNY Geforce RTX 5070 Ti
- Gigabyte B850 Eagle Wifi6e
- AMD Ryzen 5 9600X
- MSI MAG A750GL PCIE5, Fully Modular Compact Gaming 750W Power Supply
- Manta XSky DDR5 32GB
Current State:
- Gpu light turns on but fans don’t spin
- Black screen when monitor is plugged into GPU
- Device manager does not detect GPU
- Nvidia driver installer does not detect GPU
- Computer works on integrated AMD gpu
What I’ve tried:
- Changed gpu slot from PCIEX16 to PCIEX1_1
- Turned on hidden devices in device manager and scanned for new hardware
- Tried to install nvidia drivers (but couldn’t complete because it didn’t detect the gpu
- Changed pcie from auto to gen 4 and 5 manually
- Reconnected power cord and adapter
- Updated bios
- Installed Gigabyte Control Center and installed all recommended drivers
- replaced gpu with a friend’s 5070ti to see if there was a problem with this specific card (no difference between the two cards noted
- Connected PSU directly to GPU using a 12v 6x2 connector
- Resetting my CMOS
- Trying a new PSU (it seems to still work the same as the previous PSU)
- Using Display Driver Uninstaller to clear any traces of drivers
Things I haven’t tried:
- trying a new motherboard- This feels like the next stop, and I obviously feel really reluctant to try that. I guess it’s technically possible that I somehow damaged the pcie slot in the motherboard, but my guess is that an accidental scratch wouldn't lead to the motherboard just fully not recognizing that the gpu is there? I could be wrong
Any thoughts? As i said, this is my first time, so if there’s something obvious i might have missed, please let me know! Thank you!
Photo links:
So as the title says my ram suddenly does not show up anymore in GCC and rgb control went away. I have the B850 AURUS elite 7 WIFI ice and corsair RAM. I have never had any issues with it showing up. Now after i saw the issue i did all the updates of drivers and bios and it does not make a difference.
I did not install icue, I do have Lian li software and nzxt for my fans and aio.
What could be going on?
Hey Guys, I need some help with a very specific situation.
First of all my PC:
RTX 2070
Ryzen 7 2700x
Gigabyte X470 Aorus Ultra gaming
Wraith Prism CPU Cooler
16gb DDR4 3000mhz G.Skill Dual Channel RAM
be quiet l8 500w PSU
SATA SSD
Panorama Case with 7 PWM ARGB Fans (3 in Daisy Chain and another 4 in Daisy Chain, so separate chains)
I initially tested only a single daisy chain with 3 fans. Since the fans use standard 3-pin ARGB with a missing middle pin, and my motherboard only has VDG, I used an adapter that converts ARGB to VDG. I connected everything and plugged the VDG into D_LED2.
I recently bought my motherboard used. An important detail: the jumpers on both DLED_V_SW1 and SW2 were missing. At that time I didn’t know this, because I wasn’t aware that such jumpers exist or that they are important.
I then powered the PC on for the first time with only the 3 fans connected. It booted normally into the BIOS. However, the fans did not light up at all. Looking back, I now know this was due to the missing jumper, but at the time I obviously didn’t know that, so I shut the PC down.
I then looked at my motherboard and noticed that directly below the DLED_2 header there is an almost identical header, also with 3 pins. I thought I had made a mistake and that this was actually the correct header. So I connected my VDG cable without any issue, since the missing jumper did not physically block it.
As it turned out later, this was the DLED_V_SW2 header.
I then powered the PC on. My power supply immediately went into hiccup mode (as the AI called it). It started clicking repeatedly, sounding a bit like a machine gun (for those who know it, similar to a BTR-80A cannon sound).
As far as I remember, the three case fans did not flash or spin at all. My CPU cooler fan’s RGB flickered, and the fan itself spun unusually slowly. I shut the PC down after about 3–5 seconds using the PSU switch.
There was a burnt smell, but no smoke or visible damage. From my nose, I could trace the smell directly to the DLED_SW2 header.
After about 2 hours of leaving the PC completely powered off, I disconnected the VDG cable (the PC was of course not powered on at any point during this). This confirmed that the smell came from the header and the cable connection.
Visually, both the 3-pin header and the VDG connector still look mostly fine. The only visible damage is a small spot further up the cable (about 5 cm away from the connector), where the thin outer layer is slightly damaged and some silver-looking material (similar to aluminum foil) is visible, but it is a very small area.
After leaving the PC completely unplugged for 2 days, I tried to start it again (with all ARGB components disconnected). I plugged in the power cable and switched the PSU from (0) to (I). Immediately there was a change: normally the motherboard lights up either briefly orange or stays orange (RGB logo/lighting). This time it flashed white briefly and turned off immediately.
My mouse also lit up for about 0.5 seconds after the motherboards flash and then turned off again (note: I had not pressed the PC power button yet, only switched the PSU on).
I then pressed the power button, but absolutely nothing happened, as if the PC had no power at all.
I removed the CMOS battery, left it out for 10 minutes, and reinstalled it.
Now, when I switch the PSU to (I), the same behavior still happens. However, when I press the case power button, the CPU LED flashes red briefly and nothing else happens. If I press it again, nothing happens at all. I have to switch the PSU back to (0) and then to (I) again in order to get the same brief CPU LED flash when pressing the power button.
I honestly don’t know what to do now. Can someone please help me? Thank you very much. If anyone needs more information or has questions, I’m always available. Btw AI said everything should be fine, except for the DLED_SW2 header and DLED_2 header. If needed I may can provide some pictures, but my camera isn't that good.
Bom, galera, venho compartilhar esse problema que talvez muita gente sofra e não saiba. Se você tem a Aorus Master Ice e usa o software para controlar ali o painel LCD e, principalmente, as informações de GPU, temperatura, etc., ele está conflitando nos jogos. Passei meses buscando o que travava no meu PC e descobri esse serviço. Já tentei de tudo e, infelizmente, não consegui resolver. Basta desinstalar esse software que o PC roda liso. Minha configuração é RTX 5080 Aorus Master Ice, processador Ryzen 9800x3d, placa-mãe x870 Aorus Master Ice. Vou anexar um resumo do que acontece quando ele está ativo, vídeo anexado no Google Drive. Alguém consegue usar ele e está funcionando de boa?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Gm8popd9yQg_BPc6yJPOXuyQPUKRzysJ/view?usp=drive_link
Hi everyone, I know a lot of people have run into this same error and I wanted to ask for your help to fix it. I re-downloaded WZ, but when I try to play, I get the following message at launch: "BIOS Firmware: Update required."
I have a Gigabyte Z590 Gaming X (rev. 1.0) motherboard with an Intel i9-11900KF processor.
I've already tried the following:
Will it be necessary to completely format my PC, or should I contact Gigabyte or Activision support?
I'm clueless why this is happening on my laptop. anyone know a fix for this? Gigabyte gaming a16 r7, 16gb RAM, rtx 5050 8gb.
Does the SSD tool in GCC work only with GIGABYTE's SSDs?
Hey all,
I was comparing these 2 monitors and deciding which one to buy, the asus is 1300 euros while the Gigabyte is 900.
At first I was really happy with the MO32U24 as it allowed me to save 400 euros since I don't really care about DP2.1 or usbc power... so I thought I will be saving money on feature I don't need anyways, but when I compared them more https://www.displayspecifications.com/en/comparison/9a21348f2f I found that Gigabyte MO32U24 is missing HDR10 and dolby vision, now i know dolby vision is not needed for games (at least for pc gaming) but missing HDR10 is really holding me back.
So my questions are, what is HDR10 ? what difference does it make and is it worth the price difference in this case ?
is ultrawide worth it for gaming? it will be 3440x1440 34" 1800r qd-oled. just it seems the sweet spot between 1440p and 4k (rtx 5080 user here) and is more immersive. im just worried it will look too soft, especially dlss, as im used to 140ppi, and not all my games might support it
Hello, so i enabled expo a few days ago on my gigabyte gaming b850 wifi6 with 32gb of kingston fury 6000mhz ram cl36 and a ryzen 7 7800x3d. I ran into some minor boot problems but after a retry everything booted and worked. Now 2 days later i played Battlefield 6 and the screen went black and all of my gear went off but the pc was still on with the cpu led on. At this point i couldnt get the pc to turn off so i cut of the power on the psu. Since then the pc wont even post and i tried everything. The ram led is always on but all the fans spin and the gpu lights up
#This post was written with the help of AI for translation-purposes.
>TL;DR:
Gigabyte Support tried to downplay a hardware-related issue by simply disabling the protection mechanism. It was assumed that the display error regarding the VRAM amount was the cause of the problem. After a well-founded objection, a replacement for the card was arranged. The replacement GPU was delivered in terrible condition.
Hey everyone.
Today I want to share my ongoing RMA incident with Gigabyte.
I am currently fighting a battle over my broken RTX 4090. It died from a clear VRAM failure; not caused by me, but likely just through material degradation, voltage, temperatures, or whatever else. The fact is, I had a hardware problem and turned to Gigabyte support, hoping to get it resolved quickly and easily.
I want to share my experience with you today, structured a bit like a short story. I tried my best to write it in a way that both tech-savvy folks and non-techies can easily follow along.
I hope you enjoy the read. Maybe you have similar stories? I would be really happy if you shared your own experiences in the comments below.
It all started in early March 2026. I was just having a good time playing a heavily modded session of Fallout 4. Suddenly, my screen went completely black. It wasn’t your typical system crash where the PC reboots or the audio starts looping aggressively—the speakers just went quiet, and the screen went dark.
I was a bit skeptical, so I just sat there and waited. After a few minutes, my regular Windows desktop simply reappeared. The game had closed itself, but there were no error messages, no weird visual artifacts, no driver crash pop-ups. Nothing. I didn't think much of it, assumed it was just a random mod conflict, restarted the game, and kept playing.
About half an hour later, it happened again:
Black screen, a short wait, and back to a perfectly normal desktop.
Still no graphical glitches or artifacts whatsoever.
At this point, I decided to look a bit closer to see what was actually happening in the background. I opened the Windows Event Viewer to check the system logs. That’s when I noticed several errors pointing directly to my GPU. The most critical one was a hard hardware error reported by the Nvidia driver itself:
At
>\Device\00000106
GDDR, Uncorrectable DRAM error in FBPA 5 subpartition 1 physAddr 0x045f2840
Working in IT, I know my system inside and out. My rig isn't just for gaming; I also use it for local AI research and testing on a smaller scale. Because I need maximum stability for those workloads, I had manually enabled the ECC (Error Correction Code) state for my RTX 4090 in the Nvidia Control Panel about two years ago, and it has been running like that ever since.
Since I knew an "Uncorrectable DRAM error" in the Event Viewer is a massive red flag, I decided to dig deeper into the logs. Sure enough, I found two more errors pointing to the exact same issue:
>Error_ID: 14
Event_Data: \Device\00000106
Row Remapper: New row (0x00000000045f2840) marked for remapping, reset gpu to activate.
>Error_ID: 14
Event_Data: \Device\00000106
GPU recovery action changed from 0x0 (None) to 0x4 (Drain and Reset)
I started researching what "Row Remapping" actually means.
Long story short:
The Nvidia driver registers a specific chunk of memory as faulty and physically blocks it during boot. This prevents the system from accidentally writing into that dead chunk during normal operation, which would otherwise crash the whole PC.
When I read that, my hair stood on end. If a chunk is permanently blocked, my total available VRAM must be lower.
I distinctly remembered my Task Manager always showing 24 GB of VRAM. I panicked, opened Task Manager, and checked the dedicated GPU memory.
Lo and behold: I was suddenly sitting at exactly 22.5 GB of VRAM. 1.5 Gigabytes of memory had just been sliced off to keep the system stable.
I just thought, "What the f***."
The SMI Logs Proof
I needed hard proof to confirm this, so I turned to Nvidia's command-line tool, nvidia-smi. I ran a detailed report, and the output confirmed my fears. While the volatile errors (for the current session) were at 0, the aggregate (lifetime) logs showed the undeniable hardware failure:
>==============NVSMI LOG==============
Timestamp : Sat Feb 28 08:42:29 2026
Attached GPUs : 1
GPU 00000000:0A:00.0
ECC Mode
Current : Enabled
ECC Errors
Volatile
DRAM Uncorrectable : 0
Aggregate
DRAM Uncorrectable : 2
The "Aggregate DRAM Uncorrectable: 2" was the smoking gun. My VRAM was physically dying, and the driver was amputating pieces of it to keep the card alive.
After gathering all the logs, screenshots, and information, I decided to contact Gigabyte. I had registered my card for the extended 4-year warranty right after purchase. Since I live in Germany and the card was in its third year, I had to deal with Gigabyte's manufacturer support directly rather than the retailer (MediaMarkt).
I filed an RMA request with the German support team. They sent back a form asking for a summary of the error, serial number, and proof of purchase. I did exactly that and received an RMA number. I was told to ship the card to them. I carefully removed the GPU, packed it into its original packaging, and documented everything with photos. The card was in absolutely pristine, mint condition—it looked brand new.
Then I waited. Three weeks passed with the status stuck on "Processing." When I finally asked for an update, Gigabyte sent me screenshots claiming:
>"No error found (NTF). We are returning the card."
Their excuse? They claimed the missing VRAM was just the ECC function taking up space for error correction. While that's technically true for RAM, it doesn't work that way for VRAM without losing capacity unless there's a hardware failure.
I knew that before the crash, I always had 24 GB shown even with ECC active.
I even crosschecked on a friend's RTX 4080 with ECC also activated, but still shows the full 16 GB of VRAM.
I refused to accept their findings. I looked at their "test" screenshots and realized they were running generic stress tests on a system with an Intel i5 CPU that couldn't even push the 4090 to its limits, let alone systematically test the memory. They basically just turned off ECC, which reset the blocked rows, making the 24 GB reappear in Windows, and claimed it was fixed.
I pushed back, provided instructions on how to actually test it (using MATS/MODS or OCCT), and told them they need to bomb the memory with read/write operations to provoke the failure.
After another week, Gigabyte caved and offered a replacement: an Aorus Master RTX 4090 (Keep that in mind for later...), since my Gaming OC was "no longer available." They called it "refurbished but functional." I accepted it because their alternative was simply sending back my broken card. I thought at least I'd get a working, equivalent product. Boy, was i wrong...
After over two months of back-and-forth and patiently waiting, I finally received the package with the RTX 4090 Master inside. Today, on May 11, 2026. From the outside, the shipping box looked completely undamaged, so I opened it up.
Inside, I found the exact same black box I had originally used to send my RTX 4090 Gaming OC to Gigabyte. It still had the same tape I used, just re-sealed with a single new strip, and the RTX 4090 Master was practically squeezed inside.
I didn't think much of it at first. I pulled the card out to inspect it. At first glance, it seemed like a decent card, but as we all know, those anti-static bags are usually dark greyisch or blue-isch and blend in pretty well with the dark color of the GPU. But looking closely through the bag, I noticed something was off.
It looked... bent. Like it had a slight curve pushed inwards.
I took it out of the anti-static bag and inspected it from all angles. I looked at the corner where the anti-sag bracket is supposed to attach, and it didn't line up. It was physically bent. A piece of metal was literally sticking out. I checked the cooling fins and saw that in some places—especially right next to the high-power connector—parts of the heatsink were also bent. Then I checked the parallelism between the cooler and the backplate and noticed massive irregularities; in some spots, they were closer to each other, in others, the gap was wider. The backplate itself was sagging. It looked as if someone had installed the GPU and just dropped something heavy right on top of it.
Then I looked at the thinner part of the card where the third fan is located. It wasn't just slightly warped; it was severely bent. There was a literal N-shaped crease in the metal.
After the initial shock, anger and absolute disappointment took over. I immediately photographed and documented every single bend, crease, and scratch. I replied directly to the RMA email thread, explicitly stating that the graphics card is not free of material defects and that I refuse to accept it.
They promised me a "refurbished and functional" replacement, not a physically mangled safety hazard for my pc. I don't want to risk, that the 12VHPWR-Connector starts burning inside my case, because PCB is clearly warped arround this connector.
Honestly, I am beyond disappointed with how Gigabyte handled this entire situation. They tried to twist facts, gaslight me, and treat me like an idiot. And when I fought back, they tried to sweep the problem under the rug by sending me a visibly damaged, structurally compromised card to get rid of me.
I understand the current state of the world and how incredibly expensive hardware is right now. But I also spent a massive amount of hard-earned money to afford this GPU. I have rights as a consumer. The extended 4-year warranty was the exact reason I chose Gigabyte over Asus, Zotac, or anyone else.
I’ve had good experiences with Gigabyte in the past, buying their products for 15 years since I was a teenager.
But now, that one time I actually have a critical issue with one of their most expensive flagship products, Gigabyte showed me my true value to them:
>Absolutely nothing.
As long as you hand over your cash and keep your mouth shut, you're a "good customer."
But the moment you point out flaws in their repair or diagnostic process—even when you're literally helping them do their job—they try to mislead you just to save face and wiggle out of the warranty trap they set for themselves.
If any of you are dealing with a similar issue, I can only give you this advice:
Hold your ground.
Don't let customer support brush you off or gaslight you.
If you feel something is wrong with your product, and you've tested and documented everything to the best of your ability, stand up for your rights.
This day and age, our dignity and our own integrity are sometimes all we have left.
We aren't crazy, and we aren't clueless kids anymore.
As an adult who actually understands technology, do not let them belittle you and talk their way out of it.
Since I received the card today, on May 11th, I immediately reopened the RMA case this very same day. I am now eagerly waiting for Gigabyte's reaction to the pictures and documentation, and to see what they have to say in their defense.
If they try to weasel their way out of this or claim they have fulfilled their duties, I will explicitly reject that and very likely take legal action, as I firmly believe they are trying to dodge their contractual obligations.
If anything else comes to light regarding this situation, I will gladly keep you all updated here.
Thank you for your time.
I have a pc build with a Gigabyte Eagle AX B650.
Other specs:
(ryzen 5 7600X, RTX 3080, 32GB corsair ram, seasonic 850W PSU)
In the middle of the storm while THE PC WAS OFF AND UNPLUGED FROM the outlet, my internet cut out. I went to check the modem and after restarting when the weather calmed, it started to work again but the ethernet ports are dead. 3/4 don't show any life and the 4th shows two constant leds but no trafic. Leds are on even if nothing is connected on that port.
The modem is cooked but I went to see internet status on the PC (to check what is happening on the other side since the WIFI is working), I plugged my computer back to the wall, turned it on and smelled the "electronics burning" smell that I recognized from burning electronics in projects.
The computer fans spin, all leds (case fans, AIO, graphics card, USB RGB hub and RAM) light up but it does not boot and diagnostic lights show up as following: first the DRAM led for some time, than VGA for some time, than quick CPU and back to DRAM, than at the end it goes to VGA and stays like that.
Monitor detects the source but only that, it stays black. My phone shows "Can't connect to DESKTOP-XXXXXX" for the bluetooth. I removed the GPU (since VGA was lit) and identified that the burnet smell was on one part of the graphics card. I pluged HDMI to motherboard video (procesor has integrated graphics) and exaclty the same symptoms happen.
I have tested the voltage on the PSU and that is all normal.
My connection is that PC and modem died, and PC was not in the wall. Eather I am extremly unlucky or could the modem be the cause for the damages?
What are your toughts, suggestions?
Hey all,
I want to upgrade from a ryzen 3600 to a ryzen 5800xt. In order to do that, need to update my bios on my b450 Aorus Pro Wifi rev 1.0.
On the website there is a warning under bios version f40 that says before you update to that version you have to install “ec fw update tool.” Here’s the link:
https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B450-AORUS-PRO-WIFI-rev-1x/support#Support-Bios
My current bios version is f42a which doesn’t show up on that page. Originally I believe I had this board bios updated to support Ryzen 3000 by someone else.
Am I ok to just update from f42a to the most recent version? I don’t know if I should or not or just wait and buy a new b550 board.
So, I recently got a pc with a Ryzen 7 2700x, an Nvidia 1070ti, and an X470 Aorus Ultra Gaming motherboard.
The motherboard was on bios version F3, so after installing windows 10 I began the update process from @rod6700's comment in this post (https://www.reddit.com/r/gigabytegaming/s/KUmgUw7goz). I updated my chipset, then updated the bios version to F31 using a usb and the Q-Flash function in the bios. My computer restarted, and now it freezes on the boot screen and throws the VGA light on the motherboard.
I don't know, apparently, what I'm doing. The 7 2700x does not have integrated graphics, so I cannot remove the graphics card and use the motherboard port; I attempted to clear the cmos by removing the battery for 20 minutes (didn't work) and by jumping the clr_cmos (also did nothing).
The only conclusion that I can draw is that I should have updated the drivers on my graphics card before updating bios?
Regardless, is there any way to fix this? Do I need to rollback the bios somehow (I don't know how to do that when it's not posting)?
GIGABYTE AERO GeForce RTX 5070 Ti OC 16G (GV-N507TAERO OC-16GD) WHITE EDITION
GIGABYTE AERO GeForce RTX 5070 Ti OC 16G (GV-N507TAERO OC-16GD) WHITE EDITION
Elevate your gaming and content creation with the GIGABYTE AERO GeForce RTX 5070 Ti 16GB GDDR7. Featuring a sleek white and silver aesthetic, this card is the perfect centerpiece for a premium white-themed ("ICE") build. Powered by the latest NVIDIA Blackwell architecture and 16GB of lightning-fast GDDR7 memory, this card delivers, smooth, high-FPS performance at 1440p and 4K with next-gen AI capabilities (DLSS 4).
I picked up my Gigabyte Aorus Master 16 BZH (RTX 5090 / Intel Core Ultra 9 275HX) about six weeks ago. Compared to the competitors in my area (ASUS HP, Lenovo), it was about $900-$1000 cheaper brand new. I researched the laptop pretty well and knew of the not so great reviews due to the price point it was released at in contrast to the companies, but it was very hard for me to justify spending an extra $900-$1000 for a better reviewed laptop that essentially has the same innards.
After purchasing it and spending some time with it I observed some weird issues and that the performance wasn't where it should be. The GPU would downclock during sessions, and the CPU was hitting 105°C at only 20-30% usage would core thermal throttle a lot! I know these chips run hot, but those numbers were definitely not okay.
The Investigation
I started monitoring everything with HWInfo64. While the GPU core stayed under 87C (the thermal limit), the Memory Junction Temperature was pinning at 104°C every time I gamed or stress tested. This was causing the GPU to throttle down to 1700-1800MHz, even in Performance Mode with the fans at full blast.
I decided it was time to open it up. I couldn't find any specific teardown guides for the Aorus Master G16 on reddit or YouTube, so I had to fly a bit blind.
The "Smoking Gun"
After disconnecting the battery and removing the heatsink, the culprit was staring me right in the face: A factory assembly error. Gigabyte uses thermal pads for the memory, and one of them was folded over on itself. It wasn’t making any contact with the memory chips at all.
As for the factory paste, it wasn't liquid metal, but also not the typical thermal paste that's used. Maybe it was PTM? Maybe it was a type of mixture? I cleaned everything up using 99% ethyl alcohol (isopropyl is hard to find here) and coffee filters.
The Upgrade
CPU/GPU: Thermal Grizzly PhaseSheet PTM.
VRAM/MOSFETs: Thermal Grizzly Thermal Putty Advanced (the blue stuff).
The "Heart Attack" Moment
After putting it back together, the laptop wouldn't post at first. On the second try, it booted, but the dGPU was missing from the system. I panicked, thinking I’d used too much putty and prevented the heatsink from seating, so I opened it up and thinned it out. Same result.
The Fix: It turns out that disconnecting the battery and holding the power button clears the CMOS. My BIOS had defaulted back to integrated graphics only. A quick trip into the BIOS to re-enable the dGPU (and switching the MUX back in the Gigabyte Control Center) fixed everything.
The Results (After 2 days of "curing")
Please note that PTM requires about 10 cycles or more to reach max cooling potential and settle so that it can get to those microscopic areas on the surface of the die.
The results have been great.
Fan speeds: On Performance mode (very loud), I was previously seeing RPMS hit 6900, now they mad out at 5900. So a major improvement for acoustics there. I rarely ever play with Performance mode on unless I'm hooking up to a 4k display and want the extra power or benchmarking. I typically play on balanced and I'm sure that has gone down as well, but don't remember what the before was.
CPU: In Cinebench and gaming, it now stays around 80°C–90°C (down from 105°C).
GPU Memory: Maxes out at 84°C during stress tests (a 20°C drop!).
Clocks: The GPU now sustains its full boost clocks in both Balanced and Performance modes. My temps when stress testing with Furmark stay at 77c and lower in other games and stress tests. In the Furmark beach, I was getting 184-190fps and now I'm getting 208-210. 3DMark graphics score at 24,700 when it used to be 22k-23k
Choosing the Silenced mode undervolts the card down to about 685mv and the clock speeds to about 1800 max, so it doesn't get very hot and that's why it's so quiet, and also msi afterburner curves don't really work there since GiMate takes control. Never really had an issue with the GPU on Silenced pre-pasting since heat and clocks were already low. I will say though now, after the repaste my performance on Silenced is actually better. So I can game quietly (even quieter than Balanced) without sacrificing too much.
Because the thermal overhead is back, I was able to undervolt and overclock via MSI Afterburner. I’m currently running a curve at 785mv / 2300MHz. In Crimson Desert (1600p Max Settings), I’m seeing 70°C–74°C on Performance mode and 75c-82c in Balanced mode. I expect these to go down even more in the coming days when the ptm has settled.
Moral of the story: If your high-end laptop is throttling, don't trust the factory assembly. Check those pads!
(I’ve attached photos of the folded pad and the new putty application below.)