How can I repurpose/make something from this it was used to get wifi from nearby tower.

I want to make something cool out of it other than getting firmware out of it.

I’m working on a DIY cooling setup using an Eight Sleep Pod 5 King cover that I currently own (no pod) as the mattress-side water grid, but replacing/bypassing the Eight Sleep hub with my own external cooling loop.

The goal is cooling only for now. I don’t care about heating. I also don’t want a permanent bucket/reservoir sitting in my bedroom, so I’m trying to build this as a mostly closed loop with fill/bleed/drain ports.

I’m posting because I’d like people to tear this apart before I buy everything. If there’s a flaw in the flow rate, pressure, tubing assumptions, pump choice, chiller choice, noise, condensation risk, etc., I’d rather find out now.

What inspired this

The main inspiration was this Truffle Security post:

https://trufflesecurity.com/blog/removing-jeff-bezos-from-my-bed

They used an Eight Sleep cover and connected the tubing to an aquarium chiller. That made me realize the useful part of the Eight Sleep system, for my purposes, is really the water-circulating cover.

I also looked at a bunch of other DIY / repair / teardown posts:

• The 1/8th Sleep https://near.blog/the-1-8th-sleep/ What I took from this: keep the system modular and serviceable; don’t overcomplicate the mattress side.
• TechTeamGB DIY bed watercooler/heater https://techteamgb.co.uk/2024/11/18/i-made-a-custom-bed-watercooler-open-source-diy-bed-cooler-heater-eight-sleep-type-thing/ What I took from this: external cooling hardware can work, but building the entire pad/control system from scratch is more complexity than I want.
• Homemade EightSleep Reddit prototype https://www.reddit.com/r/EightSleep/comments/1heaeh2/homemade_eightsleep/ What I took from this: the concept is doable, but I’d rather use the real Eight Sleep cover instead of making my own tubing pad.
• Update to Homemade Eight Sleep https://www.reddit.com/r/EightSleep/comments/1nc50rr/update_to_homemade_8_sleep/ What I took from this: custom controls are interesting, but I don’t want to design a full appliance right now.
• Pod 2 teardown / repair discussion https://www.reddit.com/r/EightSleep/comments/1dnjut4/pod_2_teardown/ What I took from this: don’t trust zip ties as hose clamps. Use real clamps. Leak prevention matters more than saving $10.
• Pump swap / repair post https://www.reddit.com/r/EightSleep/comments/1i4ulwv/swapping_a_pump/ What I took from this: the Eight Sleep pump class seems to be closer to a small 12V brushless DC circulation pump, roughly 7 L/min / 3 m head / 6–7 W, not a giant aquarium or pond pump.
• Tubing material discussion https://www.reddit.com/r/EightSleep/comments/16s07wz/what_material_do_they_use_for_tubing/ What I took from this: making the pad from random tubing is probably the wrong path. Heat transfer and comfort are hard. Better to use the actual Eight Sleep cover.
• Watercooling / mattress chiller thread https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/1mjqoa6/been_looking_at_mattress_bed_water_coolers/ What I took from this: compressor chillers can work, but condensation and noise are real issues.
• DIY compressor-cooled mattress pad discussion https://www.reddit.com/r/vandwellers/comments/rj63ei/diy_compressorcooled_water_mattress_pads_air/ What I took from this: compressor cooling seems more practical than a weak Peltier setup if I actually want meaningful cooling.

Why I’m doing this

I like the Eight Sleep cover concept, but I don’t love being locked into the official hub/cloud/subscription ecosystem. I’m mainly trying to get a reliable cooling setup that is:

• quiet enough for a bedroom
• cooling-only
• serviceable
• leak-conscious
• not wildly expensive
• not dependent on a permanent open reservoir/bucket

I looked into thermoelectric/Peltier options because they’re closer to how Eight Sleep seems to work, but most DIY-friendly TEC setups look either underpowered, inefficient, noisy once fans are included, or expensive enough that I might as well use the official hub.

So I’m leaning compressor chiller.

Proposed build

Basic loop idea:

Eight Sleep Pod 5 cover outlet
-> small 12V brushless inline pump
-> aquarium compressor chiller
-> Eight Sleep Pod 5 cover inlet

Service ports:

High point:
T-fitting -> valve -> capped fill/bleed tube

Low point:
T-fitting -> valve -> drain hose to bucket

I do not want a permanent reservoir. I’m okay using a bucket only when filling, bleeding, or draining.

Proposed shopping list

Chiller

Poafamx / AL-160 / 42 gal / 1/10 HP aquarium chiller

Amazon examples I found:

• https://www.amazon.com/Poafamx-Aquarium-Chiller-Temperature-Constant/dp/B08C2X26S2
• https://www.amazon.com/Poafamx-Refrigeration-Compressor-Hydroponics-Freshwater/dp/B0C2Y22M1J
• https://www.amazon.com/Poafamx-Refrigeration-Compressor-Temperature-Hydroponics/dp/B0D17MKM3M

Reasoning: It’s a compressor model, relatively affordable, and some listings claim under 35 dB. I’m skeptical of that number, so I’d test it myself and return it if it’s loud.

Pump

TOPSFLO TL-B10-A12-0703 or similar 12V brushless DC pump.

Target pump specs:

12V DC
~7 L/min
~3 m head
~6–8 W
continuous duty
inline capable
not dry-run safe

Reasoning: This seems closer to the pump class used in older Eight Sleep units than a big aquarium pump. I originally looked at Sicce Syncra pumps, but they may be overkill flow-wise.

Pump power

12V DC power supply, probably 2A minimum, ideally UL-listed.

Tubing

Silicone tubing, but I’m not buying final adapters until I physically measure the Pod 5 tubing ID/OD.

Service fittings

• 2x barbed T-fittings
• 2x small ball valves
• caps/plugs
• drain hose
• optional flow indicator

Clamps

Stainless worm-drive or Oetiker clamps on every barb. No zip-tie-only connections.

Leak/safety

• leak tray / boot tray under all wet hardware
• water leak detector, probably Govee or similar
• GFCI outlet or plug-in GFCI adapter
• rubber/foam isolation under pump/chiller
• soft tubing near pump to reduce vibration transfer

Fluid

• distilled water
• some kind of compatible loop treatment / biocide

Still undecided here. I don’t want to use anything that might damage the Pod cover or tubing.

Things I’m unsure about

1. Is the Poafamx chiller actually quiet enough, or are the “under 35 dB” claims fantasy?
2. Is a 1/10 HP compressor chiller the right size for a king-size hydronic mattress cover?
3. Is the TOPSFLO-style pump too weak, too strong, or about right?
4. Should I add a tiny inline expansion chamber even if I don’t want a reservoir?
5. Is running this without a reservoir going to be annoying to fill/bleed?
6. Any reason this closed-loop design would create pressure problems for the Eight Sleep cover?
7. What’s the best way to avoid condensation if I’m cooling below room temp?
8. Any recommendations for safe biocide / loop treatment that won’t damage the cover?
9. Has anyone measured the Pod 5 cover tubing ID/OD or connector type?
10. Am I missing a better quiet compressor chiller under/near $350?

Basically: does this look reasonable, or am I about to build a quiet-looking but actually loud/leaky mattress aquarium?

Would appreciate any criticism, especially from people who have torn down Pods, repaired leaks, built DIY chillers, or measured the noise on these aquarium compressor units.

Trying to reverse engineer an old Overkiz / Somfy TaHoma gateway (Overkiz_KB1) to bypass the increasingly broken cloud/app ecosystem and hopefully expose local control for Home Assistant.

Board is based around an Atmel ATSAM9G20 ARM SoC and appears to run embedded Linux. Ethernet comes up, device gets DHCP, but most ports are filtered except 53/tcp. The system is bricket because the existing TaHoma Classic ecosystem seems half-dead and provisioning/login flows are unreliable.

Trying to

• re-use the gateway as a local bridge into Home Assistant
• gain UART / serial console access
• inspect boot logs / init
• dump firmware if needed
• look for hidden local APIs/services

I’ve already identified the following components:

• ATSAM9G20 CPU
• NAND flash
• probable RF daughterboard area
• several test pads / pogo pads
• labels like “GTO” / “GTL” near status LEDs but I don't know what they mean

I suspect there’s a serial debug console somewhere but I’m trying to identify the correct TX/RX/GND pads safely before attaching a USB TTL adapter.

Does anyone familiar with older Atmel embedded Linux boards or Overkiz hardware recognize likely UART/debug locations from these photos?

would love some pointers!

Found this network controller in the trash in our laundry room and I was just wondering if there is anything cool or useful I can do with it?

https://imgur.com/a/h1u8IK5

Tenho visto alguns projetos bem interessantes de pequenas máquinas assim, que são muito compactas e não dependem de internet, mas vocês acham que seria algo viável em uma situação de necessidade diante de alguma emergência?

I wanted to see how my USB-C multimeter drew the display, it had a dirt-cheap PY32 micro-controller but the LCD was stamped with their brand name, after a great deal of time probing and logic analyzing (totally missed SPI...) I gave up. Some time later I was looking at JLC PCB parts library I saw something that looked familiar (N096-1608TBBIG11-H13). I dismissed it as a custom-designed LCD with some difficult protocol, but it was your standard ST7735S SPI driver chip.

The long short of it, this was a passion project to dig into C, SWD debugging/flashing, and PCB reverse engineering. There's a lot of constraints with this POS (piece of) MCU and the button is the only externally accessible GPIO, but working around these restrictions, I believe is the heart of hardware hacking.

MCU Specs:

- MCU PY32F002A, TSOP-20
- CPU 32-bit ARM Cortex-M
- Flash 20 KB
- SRAM 3 KB
- Display 160x180 SPI TFT, RGB565

Write-up / Video / Code: https://github.com/dc336/USB-C-Multimeter-Hack

I’m trying to get it to broadcast its WiFi signal or to get root type acces without WiFi by hardwiring in rs485 with esp32 this is all experimental only

My Dyson V15 battery locked up after I used it until it completely died. To fix it, I opened the pack and manually balanced all the cells to the exact same voltage level, but the BMS is still locked.

Is there any way to clear this lockout flag while keeping the original firmware intact?
If there is no way to keep the original firmware, can I flash an aftermarket firmware?
Thanks for any help!

So guys that do the diy Powerwall let’s break it down for me 1.BMS (2) voltages (3) actual connections to system ac <-> dc and now the inverter

And is there a way to completely disable sunnyboy grid requirements there is no grid at all where this is going

Yes ground is soldered to wall it’s just a metal shed that’s all

When I filmed the receiver for ChatGPT, he told me about your community and suggested that I could do very terrible things with it, and when I entered this community, I discovered a new world that I didn't know about, please help me, what can I do with this piece and how do I get started?

Catching my attention something that ChatGPT told me about One of the most powerful projects is to download the OpenWrt system (Professional Router Operating System) on receiver boards that have an Ethernet or Wi-Fi port Is this the piece that I have that I can do this with and if not they suggested some things to me

Thank you all🩵

Hello,

I am trying to get control of a headless device with a serial console. It starts just fine and when I connect screen or minicom to /dev/ttyS0,38400n8, I get the POST messages and can interact with the comBIOS on the device.

But when I try booting from USB (Debian installer, with serial console configured), all output characters are confined to the left-most column, eventually overwriting the previous in the lower left-hand corner, as shown in the animated GIF.

This is unfortunately unusable. I spent two hours trying to make an automatic, unattended installer, but it fails at some step, and I cannot debug this sensibly.

I am a bit at a loss as to what I can do. Do you have an idea of what is going on and how to get output to be displayed properly?

Thank you, martin