r/johndeere

1976 John Deere 100 mower runs fine, but when I engage the mower deck it only runs for about 10 seconds and then disengages….looking at the belt on it, it seems as if it sits at an odd angle and don’t seem to be level…also getting a little belt dust on the deck, but not really sure what to adjust? I don’t ever really plan on mowing with it, but if I ever sell it, I’d like to say the mower deck works!

First off, I’m super ticked off. I have been saying for months there is a problem with the tractor and been ignored now it hardly runs and will shut off at random with this error message. Is there anything I can do about it? I’m not mechanically knowledgeable at all so if there is a fix your going to have to break it down for me like I’m a kid.

Hello all sharing how I converted my loader frame to fit an All-wheel steer while keeping it compatible to go on a 4ws.

I want to start off with some numbers for the concept. I will not put all the math in here as it will be too long.

First is the stability. A standard 445 2ws and 4ws have the same tipping coefficient in a straight line. All these numbers are with the bucket fully in the air. At a slight turn the 2ws is at 95% compacity while the 4ws is at 90%. For a full locked turn, the 2ws is at 85% while 4ws is at 70%. The acceptable industry standard is 35%.

Next is onto the loader frame. Calculated with the rated load, the loader frame will normally force 3k-6k lb. to the attachment frame with rare spikes up to 15k lbs. Calculated from the steel thickness of the frame and hardware. The frame is rated to 25k lb.

Onto the modifications.

With standard turf tires for 4ws machines it will just miss the frame. I have AG tires so the lugs contact the frame slightly, this would require about ½” shaved off. Instead, I opted to add BM22725 wheel spacers. This spread the tires 1.5 inches on both sides, also improving the tipping coefficient.

The left side frame was the only frame to be modified. In the picture I show where the bracket was clearance for the steering mounts. An l-bracket was re welded to add strength back. The bottom bracket was cut off and moved 1/2” inch then re welded with support.

 The lower cross beam was cut and extended by 1.5 inches. The factory rating for this bracket was 25k lb., and by extending it the compression strength was reduced to 17.5k lb. to stiffen this back up a 1/8 angle iron was stitched along the bottom. This increased the strength to 32k lb. of compression, higher than original. You will notice one side is on the outside of the bracket. This is due to not wanting to change the geometry too much of the left bracket. The factory two bolts have a stretch strength of 10lb. Just under the compression strength of the cross bar. I changed these to grade 8 which have a stretch strength of 14.2k lb., getting us back to the acceptable range.

Next is counterbalance, the manual states 650lb minimum is needed. On a 4ws the maximum wheel weight of 300lbs combined to both sides. This machine also has a recommended rear ballast maximum of 500lbs. In comparison a tiller on a three point hitch is 370lbs. The rear pivot bushings are $16 a piece and the bearing is $7 if the wear is a concern. I will be increasing the 25-hour axle greasing interval to 10 hours when the rear ballast is installed.

Also see the pictures of all the clearance concerns that were addressed. Some of the photos were in the middle of the project to highlight what was changed. I do not have my weights on it in the photos. I also compared the tippiness with the tractor I bought it from to this tractor and it was comparable.  

Thank you all for the recs and advise on my last post. Some of yall mentioned maybe looking at a x5 series….well I found this one, though a few things.

- I am interested in better pulling power and reliability for transmission. The backyard has a lot of clean up and maintenance. Lots of old oak trees (leaves). Old cut up tree trunks and general maintenance. I feel I will be towing to get the yard in better shape and maintained.
- it is 2.5 hours away, no big deal. Wife is ok with me heading out this weekend.
- it is being sold from authorized dealer, so able to finance though at used equipment rates. 5.5% - 60 months vs 4.9% for 60 months for new.
- no service history…red flag? Previous owner traded in for a zero turn mower.

Thoughts? Good deal?

From previous post, 1st riding lawn mower. House is now on .8 of an acre. I’ve been researching and have read to stay with x3 or better but now looking at this x5.

I have a 2004 L110 I’ve been keeping alive for quite some time. I just did an engine rebuild and when I removed the blade deck the pictured spring came out, obviously broken.

So far going through schematics and parts lists i have not been able to identify it for replacement or where it goes/function.

OD measurement is 1/2 inch,

overall length without the missing portion is 4 inches

Total noob for this stuff so any help is appreciated thank you!

I have 1.7 acres, need snow removal on long driveway in winter and mowing in summer.

Never in my life did I think I’d find myself buying a John Deere Mower (fairly newish home owner), but here we are and I regret not doing it sooner. No idea what I’m doing with it but thank goodness for YouTube university 🤣

Found this piece of flat oval foam on the floor under the rider. Looks like it was chewed by mice. I don't recognize the part, but I want to make sure it's not from the rider before my first mow of the season.

My average slope is about 10°. My lawn is mostly downhill. I took about 10 measurements throughout my lawn using my phone level and a 2x4. I prefer a zero-turn mower, but it’s not 100% necessary since the slope is too steep. I was looking at the S140 or a Z330. MTD burned me once, so I’m not in love with them. I stopped by local dealers, but the offerings in my price range mostly come with a Briggs or Kohler engine. Tried to buy used, but it’s either overpriced or has unknown history. Any advice?

This hill is most definitely steeper

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQbufhpPSZQ&pp=ygURTW93aW5nIDIwwrAgc2xvcGU%3D&ra=m

Hello! I got this John Deere series 100 from my dad a while back. I was about 20 minutes into mowing when I shut it off to clear some dog toys out of the yard and when I went to start it back up again it was doing... this.

Things I did (that I understand):

• Checked the gas tank and topped it up. It's currently full.
• Checked the oil, it's fine.
• Checked the fuse, it's good.
• Used an air compressor to blow grass out of the engine

I also looked at the spark plug and it looks fine to my eye but that's probably not saying much. Everything appears to be connected.

Any advice is much appreciated! I was halfway done mowing so I'd love to get this guy up and running to at least finish the job before I have to have it serviced or something. I'm a woman with zero small engine experience but willing to learn 😭 Thanks for your time!

Edit: I fixed it!! I eased up off the choke as I was turning the ignition and it started 😆 I’ll leave this up in case that (probably obvious) answer helps anyone else lol