u/Known-Advisor-2000

I recently mounted a Floodlight Elite PoE camera above my garage doors. It works great overall, but during heavy rain at night it occasionally sends a "Vehicle detected" notification, even though the car has been parked in the driveway for hours and hasn't moved. It also turns on the floodlights.

Motion notifications are disabled. I only have Vehicle/Person/Pet detection enabled.

This seems odd to me. I understand that heavy rain creates visible motion in the image, but since generic motion detection is disabled, I don't understand how the camera ends up classifying it as a "Vehicle event". I would expect it to recognize that the vehicle has been stationary the entire time.

Has anyone else experienced this? It feels like a software bug, but I'm curious if there's an explanation I'm missing.

My setup is:

Router → PoE switch → RLN36 NVR + all PoE cameras (each camera appears twice in the system: once as a standalone camera and once through the NVR)

After running into a few issues, I think I may have figured out the correct workflow for adding new PoE cameras to an already working system. Can someone confirm whether this is the recommended approach?

1. Turn off the NVR.
2. Connect the new camera to the PoE switch.
3. Initialize the camera as a standalone device and set its password.
4. Verify that you can access it directly in the Reolink app.
5. Turn the NVR back on.
6. Add the camera to the NVR via LAN discovery and enter the camera's password.

Why do I turn the NVR off first? When I previously connected a brand-new camera while the NVR was already running, the NVR discovered it automatically before I had a chance to initialize it as a standalone device. I never got the opportunity to set the camera's password. Later, when I turned off the NVR, the camera in the Reolink app prompted me for a password that I didn't know, so I couldn't access it directly.

Is it possible to initialize a brand-new camera and explicitly set its password while the NVR is running, or is powering off the NVR first the recommended approach?

I'm a little confused about how the RLN36 handles cameras connected over the LAN.

My setup: PoE switch connected to the router, RLN36 and all of my Reolink PoE cameras connected to the PoE switch. So in the app I should see every camera twice (as a stand alone camera and inside the NVR).

Here's what happened:

1. I initially connected the RLN36 to a monitor and added two cameras.
2. Then I disconnected the NVR and installed several more cameras. At this point I saw all cameras in the App as standalone cameras. The two cameras that I previously added to NVR were offline. So far so good.
3. Later I plugged the RLN36 back into the network.

Now the NVR only shows one camera. The second camera that was previously added is still offline, and none of the newly installed cameras appear. I don't see any option in the Reolink app to manually add LAN cameras.

Do I need to reconnect a monitor (and mouse) to the RLN36 to add cameras that are already on the same LAN, or should this be possible entirely through the app? Am I missing something?

Also. I'm pretty sure I set RLN36 to "Auto add" all cameras that are on the LAN. I guess I can't see that settings (or change it) in the Reolink app. I will need monitor for that?

I've seen a lot of reviews claiming it can't work like a normal motion-activated floodlight.

The Duo Floodlight can keep the lights off, automatically turn them on when motion is detected at night, then turn them off after a set time.

Can the Elite Pro do the same? If so, are those reviews just outdated or incorrect?

I'm considering the Reolink Elite Floodlight WiFi (AC hardwired) and have a question about 24/7 recording reliability. I want to record continuously to the NVR, not to SD card.

Does continuous 24/7 recording to NVR work reliably over Wi-Fi? I'm planning to hardwire the power but use Wi-Fi for the network connection. I measured the WiFi signal at the camera location with my phone and it's -58 dBm for 2.4 GHz, -82 dBm for 5 GHz. My assumption is that the camera would likely stay on 2.4 GHz anyway, since the 5 GHz signal seems pretty weak.

Does anyone here run WiFi camera recording 24/7 to an NVR? If so, how strong is your wifi singal and does work reliably?

Thanks!

I was pretty much set on buying the RLC-1224A for my backyard. My yard is very dark at night (too dark for a CX820 unless I rely on the spotlight), so I was looking at IR-capable options.

Then I stumbled across the RP-PCT8M and RP-PCT12M. On paper, they seem superior to the RLC-1224A in several ways, yet I can barely find any reviews, comparisons, or coverage from the usual YouTube channels. They also seem oddly hidden on Reolink's website compared to the more popular models.

Am I missing something?

If budget wasn't a factor, would the RP-PCT8M or RP-PCT12M be the obvious choice over the RLC-1224A? If not, what's the downside or trade-off?

btw. I use RLN36 NVR with Reolink PoE switch

I know I probably don't need shielded cable for a residential install, but I already have a 500 ft spool of TRUE CABLE Shielded Cat6 (23 AWG solid copper F/UTP), so I might as well use it. Because of that, I'm planning to use shielded keystones as well.

I'm wiring a house for PoE cameras and a ceiling-mounted AP, and I'm trying to decide between:

• Cable Matters Shielded Cat6A/Cat6 Keystone Jacks (12-pack for ~$45) + buying a punch-down tool (~$40)
• trueCABLE Shielded Cat6A Toolless Keystone Jacks (12-pack for ~$67)

At first glance the Cable Matters jacks are cheaper, but once I add the cost of a decent punch-down tool, the trueCABLE toolless option is actually less expensive overall.

For those of you who have used both styles:

• Are toolless keystones as reliable long-term as traditional punch-down keystones?
• Any issues with PoE/PoE+ or PoE++?
• Is there any reason to choose the Cable Matters punch-down jacks if I'm only doing a handful of drops (AP + several cameras), not wiring an entire office?

Curious what you would choose and why.

I'm in East Setauket and mainly want ABC, FOX, and NBC. From what I've been reading, ABC seems to be the tricky one since it's on Hi-VHF.

I'd strongly prefer an attic install rather than mounting something on the roof. If you're getting those channels reliably, what antenna are you using? Are you aiming at NYC or CT? Any amplifier?

The ClearStream MAX-V PRO seems to get some decent reviews, does anyone here have experience with it?

https://preview.redd.it/qxvimsvqyo5h1.png?width=1814&format=png&auto=webp&s=e6a73b09fef32a7c056dd8349defedf6a243b255

I’m mostly interested in LI-based roles, but if you work in NYC, please mention that since I think it makes a pretty big difference

I’ve been working at the same company for a little over 10 years. Overall I like the job and the stability, but lately I’ve been feeling like my raises have mostly just matched inflation with a few years without raise at all (this year was less, which is probably why I'm posting here), so I wanted to get a better sense of what other devs are making these days and and whether I’m falling behind or not. I make $160k today, with 10y at the company and 15y experience overall (Full stack, mostly .NET and JavaScript).

If you’re open to sharing, it would be helpful to know your experience level, years at your current company, tech stack, and approximate base/total compensation.

Just trying to get a realistic picture of the local market. Thanks

I’m building premium media cabinet (not kitchen) and trying to match what’s typically done in higher-end cabinetry. The cabinet box is only 18" heigh, there will be one shelf. Do most shops just drill standard 1/4" shelf pin holes and use metal pins directly, or do they use shelf pin sleeves like these? Sleeves require drilling larger holes, which is kind of irreversible compared to standard holes, so I’m wondering if that’s something pros actually do or more of a niche approach.

Are sleeves considered more “premium,” or are they mostly for repair/durability cases?

Curious what’s actually common in professional premium builds vs overkill.

I’m building premium media cabinet (not kitchen) and trying to match what’s typically done in higher-end cabinetry. Do most shops just drill standard 1/4" shelf pin holes and use metal pins directly, or do they use shelf pin sleeves like these? Sleeves require drilling larger holes, which is kind of irreversible compared to standard holes, so I’m wondering if that’s something pros actually do or more of a niche approach.

Are sleeves considered more “premium,” or are they mostly for repair/durability cases?

Curious what’s actually common in professional premium builds vs overkill.