Mechanic says its loose, its it that loose to be a cause of concern?
2015 Hyundai Sante Sport
2015 Hyundai Sante Sport
Im a L1 ASE, Kia Senior certified with 20 years of Experience and this is the my 2nd year I’m barely going to hit 40k at most, is it even worth it?
i just tried to lift from the little hump and it made a kinda loud noise.
I got a 2000 Nissan Quest and I just changed the oil today. Put 3.5 quarts and the dipstick shows that I’m good (oil is in the halfway). When I checked the coolant, it was really low so I topped that to the max line. The car has a slow oil leak somewhere but no coolant leak that I’m aware of so that was odd. But when I started it up, there was a lot of white smoke coming from the tailpipe and, more importantly, a pretty rough idle. Like the car is skipping heartbeats.
Im 100% confident the rough idle was always an issue and had noticed white smoke in the past so the oil change didn’t cause anything but I did a little talk with GPT and it suggested that the coolant was maybe leaking into the cylinders? I was going to replace the spark plugs because who knows how it’s been but can I get a real mechanics insight on this?
What is the general opinion on preferred engine temp for removing spark plugs? Ive heard different things. Just wanted to get a read from this sub.
Got hit on my way to school is my car fixable? 2022 Toyota Camry
Driving in my street down my home then it just shut off. Had a mechanic come by and said that engine was screwed. I’m posting in here to see if I could get any second opinions? I know it’ll be harder to diagnose over a video but I figured I’d give it a shot
2000 jeep Cherokee 4.0 I6
(08 Chrysler PT cruiser)
2014 Nissan Versa Note S. 1.6 L
Manual transmission
Whining noise from what I imagine is potentially the clutch pulley on my compressor. Looking for feedback.
When I first got the car, the AC was intermittently warm. Seems like perhaps the clutch is only engaging at certain times. I planned on doing the pressure switch but ended up getting AC vacuumed out and recharged.
Recently belt has begun squealing leading me to believe it is indeed an issue with the clutch on the AC compressor, but I’m still unsure.
Started this whining yesterday
looking for a cheap one obd 2 scanner. recently got a 2006 smart car and it has one. im guessing obd2 is the most common these days? just want to be able to read codes on most cars and clear if need be
I’m in the market for a Tacoma. Found a 3rd gen TRD sport with the 3.5L V6 and 120,000 miles. The car fax shows regular maintenance, oil changes every 4,000-6,000 miles. Asked for a video of it starting up. Is this a normal sound for it? Or should I avoid this one and keep on looking? Possibly thinking it’s rod knock or the fact that Toyota calls for thin oil and this video was taken in Miami while the car was sitting outside in the heat wave. Thanks in advance for any advice :)
I cannot believe a collision at 12mph caused total loss. Thought it was just going to front hood, headlight, front + quarter. Turns out it resulted in a pretty bad kink in the front frame, AC compressor, and prb more in damage. 4.5k in initial estimate to 11k+. Sucks. Representative in phone even said that she seen cars get totaled for just need suspension re-work - is that possible??
2015 Toyota Camry SE 2.5L 4-Cylinder
Hey guys, I recently rear-ended someone and need to repair my car. I was planning to take it to a mechanic, but I’m running low on money, so I’d like to try fixing it myself if possible. Does it look like my bumper needs to be replaced, or is it just coming loose and needs to be reattached? Could there be a loose part underneath or behind the bumper that I need to fix? I’d really appreciate any suggestions or advice on what I should check before buying any parts. Thanks!
So I just replaced the brake pads and rotors on my 20510 Ford F150, and now when I speed up it sounds like a literal train speeding up, it only comes from the left side. I really do not know what to do. I have take it apart three times and can’t find the issue.( when I look it up it says that the rotor is tighten by the wheel and the nuts). It sounds very faint but it’s bc I took the video on the left.
2016 Chevy Cruze LS
So recently, my manual Chevy cruses gear shifter started to show it was time to get a replacement (picture one). I had used to drive jeeps and other cars where you could just screw the thing off and put on a new one. So I go into this thinking that and by time I have the it off and I get a good look. I realize it’s held together by plastic fasteners and clips (kinda pic 2). I still need a new shifter but I wouldn’t know how to attach it minus some bootleg stuff like supergluing it on. Would anyone be able to point me in the right direction?
If anyone knows about any cool shifters they’ve seen please put them in the comments! I’m not sure what I’ll replace it with but I’d love any parts/inspo
2023 Kia stinger gt2. Can’t tell where it’s leaking from. Only making 10 psi max. Checked all connections. Have intakes and bovs. Stops instantly when throttle lets off. Sounds normal in park when revint.
I drive a 5-speed manual 1998 Honda Civic HX. Originally, I bought the car with a Kenwood BT-350U head unit; after EXACTLY a year of ownership, the audio would randomly cut out. No radio static, no beeps when going through menus, and no sound coming out of my speakers at all. It would randomly go off on random days of the week, then come back on after a few hours of the car being off. It continued like this until one day the sound stopped for good. After a few Google searches, I see that it's probably my internal amplifier going out. So I replaced my Kenwood with an Eonon X3U (6.36"). Got all of the wires connected: speaker wires, my battery+, ACC, and Ground. I tried it out, and the sound quality is nice and whatever. I see that the old Kenwood's cage is in the way and restricting the X3U from fitting nicely in the little head unit slot, so I turn off the car, unplug the head unit, and take out the cage. After plugging everything back in, I turn the car back on, and NOTHING. No radio static or anything. A little while passes, and after playing a round of golf with my friends, I go back to my car, and try to reset the head unit. I reset it, and the sound works again... But only for like 30 seconds, before it shuts off and I have no sound. We go out to eat. I come back to my car, turn it on, and I have sound again, but only for 30 seconds... WHY. I checked my wiring; it's all good. I do have some wires not connected to anything. Like the Key 1 & 2 wires, the power antenna wire may be shorting. I DON'T KNOW. I HATE IT. I WANT MUSIC. I HAVEN'T LISTENED TO MUSIC IN MY CAR FOR 2 MONTHS. I MISS IT. I JUST SO HAPPEN TO LIKE MUSIC A LOT.
Also I currently have no AC in my car. All my freon leaked out due to a faulty schrader valve on my NEW discharge line I JUST installed. For context, my discharge line was leaked so I replaced it, vacuumed the whole system, made sure it held the vacuum and recharged my system with 22oz. After a month I saw the new schrader valve was leaking, tried to unscrew the old one, and accidentally hacked off the little ears on either side of the central pin off the schrader valve so now I can't unscrew it. HOW do I take that broken schrader valve out and SHOULD I get a new AC drier????
PLEASE HELP.
Hello, my truck has started making this noise creaking noise whenever I apply the brakes. The truck is a ‘19 Chevy Colorado 3.6L Z71 with 75,000 miles. I checked the undercarriage and didn’t see any loose bolts. The rotors look and feel smooth. The brakes are also working fine.
Can anyone help me identify the problem before I start pulling the suspension apart.
Just recently moved to TX and have had a sudden change in mpg for my 2024 Audi A3. I was averaging close to 440 to fill and am not barely touching 325. My drive has gotten a bit longer for work but is mainly highway driving. So not sure where the drop could be coming from. I had a change in tire pressure a few weeks ago, but now are all the same.
Car feels a bit laggy (heavy) when trying to shift up near 50mph but nothing that is too excessive. I first criticized the heavier traffic that I experience, but notice my miles till fill still drops heavy after a mile. It’s closer to every mile gets a five mile drop.
I just recently bought an additive (S-Line) thinking that could help clear a few things out but was wondering if anyone thought of something better. I have no check engine lights. I had an oil change at 20k and am not sitting at 21,100 with change appearing around 20.6k.
Help..
Someone’s selling me this fixer upper. A/c blows but doesnt cool. Mechanic said it has a leak outside, is that what’s in the pic? Thanks v8 2016