r/monopoly

Image 1 — Bought the wartime edition set for £20 at a car boot sale
Image 2 — Bought the wartime edition set for £20 at a car boot sale
Image 3 — Bought the wartime edition set for £20 at a car boot sale
Image 4 — Bought the wartime edition set for £20 at a car boot sale

Bought the wartime edition set for £20 at a car boot sale

Stumbled across it on a stall selling old watches and knew I had to get it. I couldn’t believe the price since it was less than most modern sets. I have the Beatles and Peterborough sets but this is definitely the absolute coolest Monopoly set I own!

u/your_mum_1705 — 15 hours ago

This post is me bitching over a long forgotten electronic port from 20 years ago that was poorly received even at the time

Monopoly for nintendo ds is not a game. It is a torture device in disguise, a wolf in sheep’s clothing. The AI’s goal is not to win, but to conspire against you, simply so you lose. It will offer the absolute worst trade deals ever that only benefit them and you none whatsoever, and make same trade deals with other AI, giving the richest one color sets for practically free.

If you wish to play this game, avoid playing against more than 1 AI player at all costs.

I genuinely don’t think there is a lower iq AI in any other game, you can go back decades, all the way back to pong and that will try harder to win against other AIs.

The AIs in Monopoly ds act more as a hivemind with their only goal being so that you lose, not so that any AI in particular wins.

tldr: i am bad at monopoly ds single player

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u/balls14234 — 3 days ago

Found a anniversary edition with a yellow board yesterday.

Came across this on a thrift store run and had to grab it. Never came across a yellow board before. I have the 1930's dark blue, the OG light blue, the UK red, and the modern black. So the yellow adds nicely to my collection.

Fun fact, when I buy these I enjoy repairing and kinda restoring them. I have so many sets that I have a drawer of extra parts that are labeled by the decades. This one had some damage to the box, 1 missing house, and several missing cards. Fortunately, this one was from the 60's and I had some extras from the same era that matched perfectly.

As for the corners of the box being ripped, I usually hot glue them and then put tape over it when it dries, so the box still slides on and off with ease. Just a friendly tip.

u/stevebo0124 — 3 days ago
▲ 7 r/monopoly+1 crossposts

Why I gladly pay $750 for ONE Brown or Light Blue property (even when it doesn't complete my set)

Most players think I’m crazy when I offer them $750 for a single Light Blue or Brown, or when I trade them a high-value Dark Blue or Green single just for a Brown or Light Blue card that doesn't even complete a monopoly for me.

They think they’re fleecing me because the trade doesn't even complete a set for me.

But they don't see the math. I am not buying a property; I am buying probability. By securing just one piece of these cheap sets early, I mathematically rig the rest of the game in my favor so I never have to make a risky set-for-set trade. Here is the exact logic and the numbers to back it up.

  1. The Math: Upgrading Your Odds

If you rely on the dice to hand you a full monopoly, you are going to lose. Look at the attached probability data for a standard 4-player game over 20 rounds:

The Brown Problem: The odds of you landing on both Browns (2 of 2) naturally are a dismal 4.5%.

The Light Blue Problem: The odds of you landing on all three Light Blues (3 of 3) are an abysmal 1.0%.

However, the odds of landing on a subset of these properties are drastically higher.

The odds of landing on 1 out of 2 Browns is 33.5%.

The odds of landing on 2 out of 3. Light Blues is 11.2%. (I just increased my odds of completing a color set, without trading a set for set, by 10x)

Odds of landing on 1/3 Light Blue is 33% - 40%

(Sometimes, I'll buy 2 light blues from players for $700 or $750 each on the very first turn for a 33% - 40% odds to compete the light blue set.)

By paying $750 cash for one of those properties right now, I don't have to rely on the impossible 1% to 4.5% odds.

I only need the dice to hit the remaining properties, which happens 11% (light blues) to 33% (browns) of the time. I am using my cash to bypass the worst probabilities in the game.

  1. Timing is Everything (The Psychology)

Why do I do this early, before I have the other properties? Because no competent player will ever sell you a property for cash if it completes your monopoly.

If I already have two Light Blues, nobody is giving me the third for $750. But if it's turn 5, and I have zero Light Blues or Browns, they will gladly take $750 for their single because they just see a massive cash injection. They don't realize they just handed me an 11% or 33% chance to complete the most dangerous early-game sets without needing another trade.

Also keep in mind, a competent player won't sell you a property for $750 if you can use it to swap trade with another player to complete each other's sets, so doing this early is key.

  1. Eliminating Board Risk (No Set-for-Set Trades)

This is the most important part of the strategy. If you wait until the mid-game to complete a monopoly, you are almost always forced into a swap trade (e.g., "I'll give you your last Orange if you give me my last Light Blue").

I can't risk it. Giving an opponent a completed set is how you lose the game. By artificially completing my Browns or Light Blues through early cash buys and upgraded dice odds, I get my monopoly without having to arm my opponents.

  1. Funding, Leverage, and Defense

Once I secure that early Brown or Light Blue, it opens up the rest of my game:

Funding: An early Brown set with cheap $50 houses carries very little risk, but it generates steady income. This funds my future property purchases or pays for another $750 Light Blue single later. It can also fund your houses on future sets if you want to make a set for set trade in the future.

Trade Leverage:

If I do need to make a swap trade later, I have cheap, developed properties backing me up. A player with a set that cost $200 to buy a house, they will not only lose money to my browns, but they will lose $100 per house they have to sell back to the bank.

The Ultimate Block (Bonus): If my early buy doesn't result in me completing the set, it still serves as a perfect defensive block. No one else can get those cheap early houses.

Offloading Liabilities: If I trade a single Green or Dark Blue to get my Brown/Light Blue, I am giving my opponent a massive liability. Even if they complete the Green set, they will never be able to afford the $200 houses to make it lethal.

TL;DR: Don't wait for a natural monopoly, and don't rely on dangerous set-for-set swap trades. Pay $750 early for a single Brown or Light Blue to upgrade your dice odds from 1% to 11% (or 4.5% to 33%). You rig the board, avoid giving your opponents sets, and secure early funding.

P.S: I've also created my own online monopoly game. There are NPCs you can play against that will attempt to make trades like the ones I described. Lmk if you are interested, and I'll link you my site

u/Q-top6 — 5 days ago

Had a visitor to the game lol

Forgot to post till now but our cat joined in last week as I wanted to play Monopoly for my birthday

And yes we did play around him rolling around the board hehe

u/Weekly-Astronaut-632 — 5 days ago

Does anybody have a copy of THIS VERSION of MONOPOLY Cheaters Edition that they’d be willing to sell?

Ever since I learned about this enigma’s existence, I’ve been incredibly curious about it. But unfortunately for me, i haven’t found any leads for where I could buy this from, since MCE on eBay only brings up the normal version, and online searching just leads me down a bizarre rabbit hole of foreign currencies and no shipping to the states.

Can someone be willing to sell this?

u/Ok-Pineapple6534 — 7 days ago

Does anyone else use free parking as a full round of safety except chance cards?

My family has always played with the house rule that if you land on free parking, you can go an entire round of the board (until you pass free parking again) free of charge. No need to move to jail, no need to pay taxes etc. Only thing you are not safe from is cards.

If a card makes you go to a property, we ofc count it as going the full round like normal, so with bad luck u could have free parking then a chance card tells you to move to a red space, u lose the benefits even if its technically just 2 spaces behind.

(We played this when I was younger probably so child me and my sis wouldnt be so upset, but it has stayed ever since, and YES, we DO mock eachother when we land on hotels and have free parking)

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u/Alibium01 — 7 days ago

Why did the Park Place and Chance squares switch places in the "America-Opoly 250" Edition?

In every monopoly edition/themed version I've seen, including the original, the layout of the board was always the same. However, in the America-Opoly 250 version, the "Chance" and "Park Place" squares switched places, so now "Park Place" and "Boardwalk" are seperated by 2 squares instead of 1. (see images above to compare the America 250 board version vs the original)

Does anyone know why this is? Was this the first monopoly edition to make this change, or has it been going on for a while with new released version? I haven't seen anyone else talk about it. Thank you!

u/Divergent31415 — 6 days ago
▲ 6 r/monopoly+4 crossposts

CoopBanking for Board Games - A free cooperative monopoly/board games currency helper and tracker, I would love your feedback on my first application.

Hi everyone!

I'm a solo developer from Latin America and after about 6 months of development I recently released CoopBanking, a Flutter app that acts as a digital bank for board games such as Monopoly and other games that use player-managed currency.

iOS: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/coopbanking/id6779397938

Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vordev.coopbanking

The idea:

Almost every Monopoly companion app I found had the same limitation: one player had to act as the banker and manually manage everyone else's money.

I wanted something different. Every player should own their own balance, send money directly to other players, and keep the game moving seamlessly without relying on a single person to do the entire job.

Features:

- Local Network (serverless) connectivity

- Player-to-Player money transfers

- Optional bankruptcy declarations

- Player management

- Transaction history

- End game winner calculation

- Profile customization

Pricing:

The app is completely free. I use unobtrusive banner ads during gameplay instead of interstitials or paywalls to help cover development costs and obviously because I think that intrusive ads during core gameplay would be very annoying for everyone playing.

I made this application for board game enthusiasts who would like to add an extra layer of fun to their game, I would love to have honest feedback about how the application functions in more real environments, because even though I have tried my app in real board games, I would like to know what people outside my close circle think about it.

NOTE: The application may not still be available in the EU in the App Store due to a pending digital services act approval.

u/InsuranceWestern8824 — 7 days ago
▲ 74 r/monopoly+1 crossposts

Franklin Mint Collector Set

Anyone looking for one to add to their collection. My grandparents had this, but I just don’t have room for it. Everything is still in original plastic or foam the token and accessory boxes do have slight damage.

u/thisnameisntmine12 — 12 days ago

Ok so is Monopoly “Brainrot Billionaire” made with AI or MOCKING AI usage???

I’m really unsure because Monopoly *has* done more satirical coverage(see: For Millenials or For Sore Losers), and the tagline saying it’s (un)intelligence make me question if it’s satirical or if it’s another Ms Monopoly Where it seems to be satire only to be legitimate.

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u/Ok-Pineapple6534 — 14 days ago