By far my favorite truck i own right now. Picked up this 2000 k3500 last January for 5k, and have put over 8k on it since. All my other rigs are squarebodies in and out of repairs/upgrades so this ol rig gets used alot. Roadtrips up into the hills and anywhere she fits 😂 doing the tranny fluid and oil this weekend before i help a buddy move a few rigs to the next town over. Other then the gas bill its hard to beat an obs
Gonna check it out today, 108k miles seems suspicious for an 80s truck anything I should look out for?
Temporary bypassed my ac compressor by putting a dummy pulley. My question is should I keep or remove the idle pulley? Many say to remove while others say not too since the dummy pulley acts like the compressor or in other words provides the right tension. Just wondering what you guys think about this?? Also this is a tbi 5.7 just in case that matters at all.
Got my OBS back and it needs a clutch now. I've never done a clutch kit but have a good 20 years of solid part swaps so far so assuming I can learn.
What is a solid kit? Also is there any useful resources like a good clear video? Or should I find help? Time isn't an issue.
I have a 93 K1500 350/5.7
Runs like a champ, except after it gets to temp (~160 engine ~180 Transmission) it runs low RPM on idle in Drive (100-300) and Tac bounces (will idle in park fine Tac around 500 RPM). Once warmed up it will sometimes die if at a light for too long. No problem doing 4 hours straight driving, doesn't overheat. After it stalls out, then the next 5-10 min of driving it doesn't want to accelerate well, putters.
I've been down the diagnostics rabbit hole, Fuel pump is new, plugs and wires are new, hoses are new. IAC is new. Engine is dirty/greasy AF so not been able to visually confirm head/intake gasket leaking. I do not have oil in coolant or coolant in oil. Radiator doesn't bubble. Went through a whole can of started fluid to find vacuum leaks around gaskets, but nothing. IAC valve seems to be next in line of suspension, but it's a new IAC.
At this junction, I wonder if all the o-rings and smaller gaskets in the TBI may be at fault, or if I need to consign myself to replacing the intake/head gasket. I hate to make more work for myself, but if I go the route of doing those gaskets, do I just need to plan on doing both and adjusting my valves etc as I'm already down in those guts, kinda like replacing a water pump whe you have to do the belt?
Looking for suggestions as I hate to just tear it down and throw parts at a problem I don't understand.
Just purchased an OBS SCSB chevy that will be getting an LM7 swap for a fun sporty weekend driver. Nothing crazy.
Seeing alot of the full packages in my area. Motor, 2wd trans, wiring harness for like 1k, but.... they are all higher mileage. Ranging 150k to 250k of unverified mileage.
What should be done to the motor for a "spruce" up to make it ready for the next 100k? Anything in particular suggested, especially, while the package is out of the vehicle?
Looked through a few posts but not sure i searched correctly for this specific question.
I think I did pretty good. Its a good 8-10 footer. Some scratches but no rust.
Recently encountered a no crank issue on my 91 GMC Suburban and couldn’t get it to start. When trying to turn the key over you could here one click, assuming a bad starter.
I purchased a replacement Duralast starter motor, installed, and ensured all cables (positive battery cable, ground cable, and small safety switch cables) weee connected to the starter motor solenoid terminals. Yet, nothing happens when I attempt to start the vehicle - we have power but no clicking or signs of an attempted start. Crawling under the vehicle while someone attempts to start it, I can hear a hum coming from the motor, so I assume that is getting power. However, motor gear is not spinning and engaging the flywheel.
Is it safe to assume that I managed to install a bad starter out of the box or are there other things worth checking?