As title implies. It's gonna be my first time doing anything like this and I'm planning to learn CAD to do it. Basically looking for any tips from people more experienced with 3D printing, and also, if anyone has ever done this, is there a good way to find a screw layout diagram online without taking my GPU apart before the mod is ready?
And by "mine" I specifically mean the old, aftermarket heat spreaders I got for them.
Years ago I bought this VLP DDR4 (very low profile) to fit in a very tight build. After switching my PC situation up a bit, these sticks have been sitting so I'm reusing them for an upgrade to my brother's PC. I figured, hey, might as well save a few hundred dollars and reuse what I have.
Being that they're so short, aftermarket coolers won't properly fit on them without being a bit loose and/or unlevel, so I used a table saw with an aluminum cutting blade to trim off a bit of the bottom.
Don't mind the unhinged, blurry shot of the thermal paste. I "had" to paste it because with chips on both sides of the PCB, the cooler was way too tight using pads on both sides and just slightly too loose with pads on neither. Had to do a bit of both using what I had on hand.
I'm hoping with some more thermal headroom that I'll be able to "push" these to the rated 3200, since I was never able to get them stable there before. Are there any good new tools for DDR4 overclocking on AM4 these days?
I'm planning to put a fan in the front of my 7020 case, but I need to cut these two nubs off so they don't interfere with the fan blades.
What's the best way to do this?
Using a dremel would take hours and I'd have to remove or seal up everything inside and the thickness and shape of the nubs prevents me from just hammering them flat.
The nubs are steel sheet metal, about .07" thick. They're about 1.1" in diameter at the base and kind of a cone/dome shape.
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Finished cleaning up and rewiring the front panel. "Eichen" will reset the pc and "ant. abst" will turn it on. Just plug and play into the motherboard. I reused the old cables behind the panel because they looked dirty. Gives some authenticity. Panel light has bin rewired to molex .. so technically not a power led but since molex will deliver power as soon as your pc is turned on it will function the same.. pretty much.
Also took apart my chiller to see if i could beef it up and i think i can. Though i got to widen it .. ill use some alu profiles for that.. to make room for a radiator upgrade. 1x240 and 1x280.. also found a peltier doing nothing so i micht start chilling actively.
Last pictures were to get myself excited and better visual of the idea. Maybe others will too.
So i have seen that scoops are hot now, I have ran my meshify C with 2x140mm intakes. Never needed active psu cable cooling. But with a scoop? Sure.
My friend printed an existing one and I did not consider the scoops height, so it did not fit. Luckily I do not use front IO: So..
Well I need to drill some fan holes, create a fan mount hole. Maybe cut away some material that blocks the fans. So I started that, then the next day.. If I found the space for that...
I can not link the image but 3x140mm fans fit in the front of this small case. Pretty sweet.
With that I would have to build my own scoop. Possibly a complete channel to feed the underside of the GPU from the bottom 140mm fan without overwhelming it.
Any ideas/views on this? None of this is necessary. Just fun projects. I run a solid sidepanel so looks are not to important.
I wanna mod my case with the Snowblind mod/transparent lcd panel. I cant really find a source on which panel type to use. TN is worse when looking from the side, I know that, but some people claim that u should still use it, because IPS is way less transparent then TN. Other people claim the exact opposite. Can someone pls clear this up for me? Idk what to believe anymore xD.
Thank you!
Honestly, the whole Stealth Kit situation is pretty frustrating. It’s not just the fact that it’s basically impossible to buy right now — a lot of people, myself included, couldn’t get one even though we met all the requirements.
I bought an O11 Vision Compact and a HydroShift II OLED, so I clearly met the requirements for the Stealth Kit, but I still missed out simply because there wasn’t enough stock. And considering I’ve spent €400+ on Lian Li products, it’s pretty disappointing to be left out because of a stock issue.
I really hope Lian Li finds a solution for people who qualified but couldn’t get one due to the limited stock. I really like their products, but honestly, this whole situation has left me pretty disappointed.
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Hi everyone,
The PCIe x16 retention clip/latch on my motherboard came off and unfortunately I lost it.
I have an ASUS Prime B450M-K II. The GPU slot now feels like it needs that clip to properly hold the graphics card in place, so I’d like to buy a replacement rather than risk using the motherboard without it.
The problem is that I have no idea what size/specification I need. I’ve found replacement PCIe x16 retention clips online, but they seem to come in different sizes and I don’t know how to determine which one is compatible with my motherboard.
Does anyone know:
\- What exact size/type of PCIe x16 retention clip the ASUS Prime B450M-K II uses?
\- Are these clips standardized enough that I can buy a generic replacement?
\- Is there a specific measurement I should take from the slot to find the correct one?
\- Does anyone know where I could buy a compatible replacement?
I can also provide photos of the PCIe slot/motherboard if that helps.
Thanks!
(Yall, the reason i did this like bc i couldn’t sell this pc, i wanted to sell the pc a while ago and even as parts but it didn’t work, and the stock case has shit airflow considering it survived a fire in 2022)
Specs:-
Cpu: Intel i5-10509
Gpu: RTX 3050 6gb
Ram: 12gb ddr4 ram (the second 8gb is broken so i used the oem 4gb)
Storage: 256gb Kingston A400 for system / 1TB WD Blue for storage / 500gb seagate hdd (sata to usb) for extra storage (planning on getting a kingston NV1 250gb)
Psu: dogshit
We’ve all seen the complaints about the heat produced by our PCshttps://i.redd.it/m5c0l37xpmjh1.jpg. I just upgraded mine and started noticing it more so I did something about it. I know there are some DIY solutions out there, but they don’t look good and don’t seem to function as well as they need to. I've been working on a solution that keeps the heat out and looks like it is supposed to be part of the PC. I’m calling it the HeatShift TEU (Thermal Extraction Unit), and I've finally reached the point where I'm curious whether this solves a problem for anyone besides me.
The problem was pretty simple: during longer gaming sessions, my PC was basically a space heater. My room would regularly climb 5–6°F, and I could feel hot exhaust blowing around my desk. So I started experimenting with ways to capture the PC's exhaust and send it outside through a window. The first prototype was hilariously crude, basically a homemade hood and dryer duct, but it proved the basic idea was possible. From there I've been designing and 3D printing progressively better and more functional versions.
This is now V4.
The TEU sits over the top/rear exhaust area of the PC and uses modular sections so it can be configured for cases with different numbers and locations of exhaust fans (even down the back/side panel). The capture system is sized to accommodate case fans up to 140 mm, rather than requiring separate 120 mm and 140 mm versions. The sections are magnetically sealed to minimize leakage, vibration, and make assembly easy and satisfying. The system feeds into a 4-inch duct connected to a variable-speed 205 CFM inline fan that exhausts through a window. I have also made a modular window kit system, much like the little walls for a window AC unit.
The install is the part I'm most happy with: because the pieces are magnetic, there are no screws, brackets, or tools. It snaps into place and comes apart the same way. You basically arrange the sections your case needs and let the magnets do the rest.
The goal was just to stop dumping heat into the room. It did that. But it also did something I didn't expect: it made the whole system run noticeably cooler.
Here's what I measured on my own build (RTX 3060, same game, same settings):
For full load benchmark tests:
So I'm currently seeing roughly a 7–10°C reduction in GPU temperature, around an 8–9°C reduction in CPU temperature, and the room is no longer steadily turning into a sauna while I play. These are just my own prototype test results, definitely not controlled laboratory testing, but they're encouraging enough that I want to keep developing it and collect more data.
The current V4 is also dramatically more functional and aesthetically pleasing than where this started. The modular extensions allow the capture area to be changed for different fan layouts, while interchangeable pieces, magnetic mounting, and removable components mean the entire system doesn't have to be designed around one specific PC. The inline fan is a little louder than the PC fans, but not bad at all. A less powerful fan would likely work as well as it would need to. A smoother 4in duct would also likely help noise, something I am looking into.
Where I want to take it next:
For now, I'm going to stop redesigning the core unit and put some real hours on V4 to find problems through normal use. If the design continues working well, I'd like to explore interchangeable outer panels/skins. The structural airflow system would stay the same, but the visible surfaces could potentially be swapped for different colors and themes; translucent RGB versions, industrial designs, automotive-inspired versions, seasonal designs, custom designs, etc.
I also want to continue experimenting with capturing more heat from around the GPU/PSU area, improving universal case compatibility, refining the window kit, and eventually figuring out what manufacturing something like this would actually cost. I'm not selling anything right now. This is still very much a working prototype built on my 3D printer.
I'm mainly trying to figure out:
Would you actually use something like this for your gaming PC? And if not, what would stop you?Size? Noise? Having a duct going to the window? Appearance? Price? Something I haven't thought of? I'm especially interested in hearing from people whose gaming PCs noticeably heat up their rooms.
If there's enough interest, I'd like to keep documenting the development and potentially see whether this could eventually become a real product. Please tell me what you think, what could be better, what you'd want to see from a product like this, what themes/designs would be interesting to you and any questions you have.
I've included pictures of the different prototypes because the evolution from the first ridiculous setup to V4 has been half the fun.
Thank you!
Custom case Gorilla Custom A4 h2o
I made this case to order, the customer,
external panels are removable on latches,
the design is done completely from scratch
I had to use zip ties
Don't worry, I'll change them as soon as possible.
Recently, I upgraded my daily PC—which I had been using with Windows 7 out of necessity rather than choice—to a full-tower setup with an i5-4440, 14GB of RAM, and a GTX 970.
Prior to this, I was using a ThinkCentre M90p SFF. It couldn't fit a proper GPU, and after moving three 2GB RAM sticks over to my new full-tower build (bringing it from 8GB to 14GB), the M90p is now left with only 2GB of RAM. The board still has an i7-870 in it.
I’d love to repurpose or do something creative with this M90p motherboard/system, but I can't think of any good ideas. What would you do with it?
(Note: I used Gemini to translate this post.)
Saw ppl stripping off the gpu shroud and 3d printing enclosures to fit noctua fans. Wanted to do that but for the meanwhile zipties do the job :P
Edit: Temps have dropped very nicely. I usually play cs and it gets to 90c pretty quickly. Now it only gets to 70c max.
Also plugged directly to motherboard as i dint wana bother finding adapter to plug into gpu. If anyone can find it pls do.. TY. GPU - Asus rx 6700xt dual oc I also had an issue where gpu would shutdown for no reason when playing games but now its never occured.
I will fully admit that this is most likely a solution without a problem. I never had temp issues, but I really wanted to do this mod. I love my N6, I finally have a compact mATX NAS enclosure with easily serviceable hot swap drives. I had a lot of fun with this build and IMHO this case is a huge quality of life improvement from my previous Fractal Node 804.
But one thing really bugged me; with the SFX PSU in the bottom compartment, I only had one 120mm exhaust fan to keep my drives cool. Not to mention the gaps between the drives are tight and the hole between the top and bottom compartments is huge. I just felt like a couple of pusher fans up front would really improve airflow.
My original solution was admittedly janky af, but it was functional. The only downside was that my motherboard was still powering the USB port even when the server was off. In addition, I really wanted to make use of the fan speed control switch on the front of the N6 because my NAS is virtualized and individual PWM passthrough I don't think is possible.
So I measured up the original front cover and the case, and came up with this beauty. It uses the original magnets and bottom notches, fits two 120 x 15 mm slim fans, and still sits flush with the front of the case. It's a very snug fit and the tolerances are tight, but it maintains a gap between the drive caddies and the fans to avoid vibration transfer. I'm by no means a great 3D modeler, but I had a lot of fun building this in Fusion. Only other thing I used was a PWM extension cable, and that was just to avoid having to open the back of the case if I needed to disconnect the fans.
It really should have come from the factory this way. Jonsbo, if you're listening... push the backplane back a little and give us full size 120mm fans up front on a quick disconnect. Or better yet, isolate the bottom chamber better and put two high static pressure fans directly behind the backplane. What a missed opportunity.
Obligatory .stl: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3176887-jonsbo-n6-front-fan-mount-for-hdd-compartment
We host AI models locally but never liked those cold industrial server racks. So we designed our own chassis, something we'd actually want sitting in the middle of the office.
It's CNC'd from an 5mm solid aluminum plate, milled inside and out. The triangular cutout pattern does double duty: it keeps the frame stiff without the weight, and the triangles map to the airflow path for the four GPUs, which stand vertically. 18 fans on one controller keep it cool at full load.
Each of the 4 GPUs reaches the board over its own PCIe 5.0 riser, custom-cut and sleeved to fit the chassis exactly.
Four cards pull close to 3,000W, so it runs two 2,000W supplies with native 12V-2x6 into one distribution board, off the rear, for headroom.
Underneath is an ASUS W790E-SAGE SE with a Xeon w5-3423 and 192GB of ECC. The whole thing is 15.5 inches square and about 66lb, anodized silver.
Design files are open source if anyone wants to build one, link in comments
B450m Steel Legend into an Aqua Uno case. Ryzen 7.
I tried everything already. Cleared cmos a few times, checked for extra or crooked standoffs,tried firing up with only 1 Ram stick.
Now I’ll add, I said it was my first time case swapping. For some reason I took off the heat sink. Thought I had some laying around but guess not. I’m buying some tomorrow but honest question, would not cleaning and adding new paste cause this? I know it’s not a good idea to do it but I was hoping to just see it boot up. But I never got signal to a monitor or option to BIOS. Just on then off.
I know it’s not a good idea but I’ve read on here about people not cleaning and adding more thermal paste . I figured if I did see some issues it would be When the computer started getting hot later.
Hi everybody, I'm on a project of mine.
Working on a full deshroud on my gigabyte 3080 Ti gaming OC (with everything custom, so new backplate of course !).
Those are PLA printed for now with my bambulab A1 for tests (hence the splitted parts), with integrated plenums (13mm) and for now 3D printed screws because I don't have the real ones right now, nor the threaded inserts right now. It does use the screw from the base design (for the backplate, PCB mounting and the shroud)
Note: the design is compatible with 3080, 3080 Ti, 3090, 3090 Ti, across the gaming OC, vision and eagle series, and both revs, for anyone wondering =)
Note II: those are pics of prototypes that are in various stages, so not all the pictures are replica of what's the actual design, though it's pretty close.
Would like if anyone would be interested, I could do some productions run if requested (the overall cost is pretty high due to the backplate). Cost would be around 150EUR (around 174USD, without taking into account time spent into that price).
To be extremely clear: I have nothing to sell you here or anywhere on that profile, I'm just wondering if people would be interested, especially given the price of the kit for a GPU series that's not the latest.
I'm open to any question or any supplementary infos that's requested, have a nice day y'all =)
Eines meiner lieblings Aufbauten. Hier wollte ich den Fokus ein wenig auf Licht und Schatten legen. Inspiriert durch die Shadow Serie von bequiet! Und es wurden eben Teile von der Pure , Dark und Shadow Serie verbaut.
I'm planning my first SFF build; I want something “backpack-friendly.” I'm thinking of using the Metalfish T40 case and modifying it to improve airflow. My idea is to install 3x40mm fans on the front, 3x40mm fans on the bottom (at a 10- to 15-degree angle to direct airflow toward the CPU and GPU), and a 120mm fan on top as an exhaust fan. Do you think this is a good idea? I’ve made some sketches based on this concept.
