r/shapeoko

I have a shapeoko pro XXL with the router and I got 3 problems I need help with. UPDATE: I'm using carbide create and motion. I do have vcarve pro too, but I refuse to believe this is a software issue.

PROBLEM 1:

I mostly use carbide3d's endmill starter bit pack, and every time I run a deep pocket or profile cut, especially on curves, I get horizontal lines on the edges that correspond to the depth pass I believe. I've been told it's chatter because I used downcut spiral bit and I should use a compression bit.

I've even tried upcut bits, last pass to clean up etc and still get that. Then I bit the bullet and bought an up/down compression bit, asked gemini to give me the recommended setup for dpp, feed rate etc. Lo and behold I got the same old results. In fact this time I even got screeching for the first time.

After decreasing dpp and bumping up feed rate (no screeching), I got a clean top (yay) but the horizontal lines still persist...

PROBLEM 2:

every time I cut of the tabs, I use a jigsaw first, then I clean up with a chisel. I end up with the tab's "end grain", so it's never clean.

Been trying this for a few months now, tried researching a bunch but still no success. People even say "it's because you're using a desktop hobby machine" as if it were just a $2.5k toy...

PROBLEM 3:

I designed for a 13" diameter circle (6.5 radius) and the end result was 12 15/16". Why? How? Don't need to lecture me about the tape measure tab/gap thing. It simply doesn't make sense.

Please help! I'm not giving up and yes I know about the "learning curve", but I'm patient vs trying to find out.

A few months back I posted here about the app + USB receiver I made that lets you jog your Shapeoko from your iPhone — the USB stick stays plugged into your computer, and the app works right away with Carbide Motion (no additional software or settings needed on the computer). This means that whenever you need to jog the machine, you just pull out your phone — the app instantly reconnects as soon as you open it.

Android was the most-requested feature after that post, and I'm happy to say it's now here — the app is free on both platforms, and the CNCjogger Stick is available for sale at https://cncjogger.com

The receiver shows up to your computer as a regular plug-and-play USB keyboard, so there's nothing to install. It's designed to work with Carbide Motion out of the box — arrow keys for X/Y, Page Up/Down for Z, all 4 speed settings — but it works with any CNC software that takes keyboard shortcuts (custom key mapping in the app if needed). Of course there are other ways to jog the machine, but the fancy wired pendants are expensive, and the cheap Bluetooth keypads are fine, but some people prefer not to have another piece of hardware in the shop that needs to be charged/synced/stored. You already have a battery-powered touchscreen controller in your pocket; this just lets you use it with the CNC. I'm personally not a fan of making everything into an app if there's no good reason, but for me, the convenience and simplicity is actually pretty nice for daily use.

Happy to answer questions, and thanks to everyone who asked for Android — the requests pushed this to the top of the list.

[This is fully compatible with Carbide Motion and Shapeoko, but is not made by or endorsed by the makers of those products.]

Shapeoko Pro xl, compact router from carbide. I wanted to see if anyone has had this issue and what remedies they used to remove a seized collet?

I'm looking to see if anybody is interested in Chicago area. Literally brand new in sealed box. Really bad timing. Comes with compact router. Fair offers welcome. Shipping back to Carbide is like $300-400 plus restocking so I'm down that regardless.

Trying to determine a fair listing price for my Pro XXL with table. Roughly 20 hours of use. Accidently went too deep when learning and tagged one of the T-Rails slightly but didnt go all the way through. Works as it should.

- Carbide Router

- Standard bit set.

- New Bit Runner (not pictured)

Edit: wood stock shown is being sold separately

I have a pro xl and I am new to this. I will attached screenshots. I have tried 7 or 8 times now to run a contour tool path. And every time I am going beyond the thickness of my piece further than just “stock bottom”. This last time I tried tabs (blue tape method the other times) and it cut the tabs and then it CUT the tabs. What I was cutting came loose obviously and all hell erupted.

When I zero, I use the paper under the bit method and I do this with the bit I am going to use in the router. (Ya know how when you go to run the job it prompts you for a tool change.)

Hopefully someone can help me make sense of what I am missing.

Edit: I’ve had a few people suggest to get calipers and measure the actual stock thickness. In the photos you can see the stock thickness is one that you can’t get with a tape. I would have had to of used calipers to get the value used. The stock was also plywood.