Hello everyone,
Today i got this issue with almost all of my videos i recorded on my walk and i can’t explain it, so i posted one of the videos. This one is the longest and worst of all of them. Others are equal or less loud and if i can post them in comments, i will.
Getting AI tools the right context from your own files still feels incredibly clunky. If an answer is buried inside local PDFs, markdown notes, or specs, manually digging through directories and copy-pasting paragraphs into the chat completely ruins the workflow.
I recently set up Linkly AI over MCP to handle this on my machine without forcing a full cloud migration.
Instead of dumping whole files into the context window, it indexes the folders and exposes them to the assistant as explicit tools. The model can search the map, inspect document outlines, and read precise text snippets on the fly only when needed. Files stay completely local, and the infrastructure runs flawlessly for my workspace.
I am running into a separate cross-platform headache, though. For those using local indexing or MCP tools, how do you handle real-time file-watching notifications (like inotify) over a network share like a local NAS via Samba or NFS? I want the indexer to catch edits across different machines instantly without relying on heavy network polling. Any specific mount configs you recommend?
Today I was setting up a new PC and all of my USB keyboards are far away. I have this numpad/arrow keys and a mouse, and I can use them to get into and edit BIOS settings, but for the first startup I had to press Y. I reprogrammed my DS Pico (which has a raspberry pi pico inside) to just press Y when plugged in and it worked! Then I flashed the normal firmware back. Open source rules!
Hey MacGyvers,
I present to you Jimmy the Frankenbook, my trusty MacBook Pro 8,1 (2011) running Debian Linux.
Recently, the internal speakers suffered from terminal foam rot—completely disintegrated around the edges, leaving me with nothing but ear-piercing high-pitched squeaks. Instead of ordering cheap, tinny OEM replacements, I decided to go full Cyberpunk and repurpose a cheap portable speaker I had lying around.
The Mod Breakdown:
The Battery Bypass (Continuous Power): I tore down the cheap speaker, ripped out the internal Lithium battery, and wired a USB power cable directly to the battery terminals on the board. Now it draws constant 5V power from the laptop. No more "battery low" warning beeps mid-movie, and zero risk of battery bloat.
The 3M Spacer: I mounted a Ugreen USB hub to the lid using 2mm thick heavy-duty 3M adhesive pads. The 2mm clearance is the magic touch—it lifts the hub just enough so I can plug in thick USB drives without them hitting the aluminum screen lid.
Quick Release Magnetic Mount: The speaker is held in place by a folding magnetic arm glued to the lid. When it's movie/music time, I just snap the speaker on. When I need to pack Jimmy into my bag, I pop the speaker off, fold the arm flat, and it's perfectly portable.
Flush Cable Styling: Used a 90-degree USB adapter on the side of the chassis to keep the cable running flush and tidy. Cable managed everything with some velcro ties because even MacGyvers have standards.
It sounds 10x louder and punchier than the original Apple speakers ever did. Plus, Jimmy now looks like a field terminal from a sci-fi movie.
Rate my redneck engineering :D
What you need is:
An old tablet that works and you don't usually use (prefferably Android with version 10);
An unused working USB cable with file transfer support;
A PC/Laptop with a free USB port (i think it works only on Windows);
A few braincells (jk, or not?).
Tutorial:
If you have any questions, ask me in comments!!!
So I came up with a solution. It's still very hot, but now it can dispose of that heat slightly.
Crippling my laptop on purpose ;)
Yes, I am aware that half-decent patch cables have boots.
I am also aware that you own at least 2 without them.
E-waste, free Samsung Tablet. not worth anything and didn't feel like spending any money to fix. But still perfectly useable.
This treadmill (walking pad) was overheating so much that it was warping the plastic above the motor, but that's nothing a couple 12v PC fans and a PWM controller can't handle! I scored an outline, and Dremel cut out holes for the fans above the motor and controller (The one on the left I overcut, hence the tape), and it doesn't have any problems anymore!
Disclaimer! These things can be super dangerous to open up and mess with so I don't recommend it
I needed a Ethernet cable. While looking for some Ethernet cable and realizing I have none, I found these old telephone wires which have 2 wires each. I've made a few Ethernet cables before and remembered that they use 8 wires. So I managed to cram all 4 telephone wires into the Ethernet end and was able to make this cable. I was glad to see that it worked, but on an internet speed test I only got high 90s of mbps. My internet should be 500mbps. Did I do something wrong? Can I make it get my full 500?
Gave my old fitness band a second life by mounting its charging dock next to my desk. Now it lives there as a tiny always-on desk clock. The Always-On Display is the cherry on top.
Macbook pro 2013 13" heatsink, thermal pad, exaggerated amounts of hot glue and a 5v blower fan, all strapped to the Leap S3 4K tv box by Strong. I don't know where I put my bag full of zipties, so this has to suffice. I hope my speedrun solder job won't fall apart.
I know doom isn't demanding, but it was the only GBA rom I had on hand, but I got it to run DS games smoothly.
I wanna replace one of my faulty fan which gives off irritating sounds, ig it's worn out bearings of the fan, I tried removing the heatsink but it's very tight in the cpu and gpu region, so plss help with this safely remove this
EDIT: i dont think i can replace the entire thermal module with the fans unit, is it possible to apply oil to the fan's bearing like that stuff?
Lap
Lenovo IdeaPad gaming 3 15ACH6
Attempting data recovery on an overheating SSD today, here’s my solution:
1 overheating SSD + 1 dollop of thermal paste + 1 laptop heatsynch + 2x 40mm chipset fans + several zip ties = Data recovered.
Hi, how are you?
I semi-successfully converted my AA Logitech G603 from taking 1 or 2 AA to work to a 1000mAh LiPo.
For this project I basically carved a cavity in the mouse, where the AAs used to be and crammed a LiPo battery, it's charging module and a step down converter that takes the 3.7V - 4.2V of the LiPo, down to 1.5V.
Parts used:
1000mAh LiPo (3700 mWh)
Charging module TP4057 USB Type C
Voltage converter: step-up-down XL6009 (I think this part is the problem, relates to my next question)
My mouse used to last 8 months using 2 AA batteries around 8000mWh? So, a single LiPo should be giving me 3-4 months of usage. However, I'm getting 1 week max.
I believe there is a problem of efficiency when stepping down ushing the previously mentioned XL6009 module, it even has an audible electronic hiss which is probably wasting even more energy.
Can anybody give me any suggestions on what to do to fix the self - discharging of the mouse over time? Or at least recommend a more efficient step down only module? I find it very weird that there is no "readymade" solution for stepping down a LiPos Voltage to 1.5V.
I'm attaching a picture with the solution, looks rough, I know. But it works just fine so, I'm happy with the results.
Thank you!