r/techsupportmacgyver

First post: https://www.reddit.com/r/techsupportmacgyver/s/d5Q8STKJX8

Bat is from an earbuds charging case. Original mah: 100 Current mah: 230

MacMini 2018 fails to auto boot after power loss and power back on. If it does a controlled shutdown then a scheduled boot will boot it up on schedule. But if there is loss of power after the shutdown, the scheduled boot will not happen. I deleted the plist, reflashed the T2 firmware using DFU, reset the SMC, reset the PRAM, toggled settings, replaced the coin cell battery CR2032. Nothing worked.

So I ordered a little robot to remotely power on the Mac. I made a rig by using a piece of 2x4 and attached it to the MacMini with adhesive velcro. I wanted to still be able to access the internals so I made sure the rig was removable and did not conflict with sliding the internals out. I then used a thin piece of wood as an end cap to get the bot closer to the button. I placed a 3/8” silicone furniture bumper on the Mac power switch that fit it perfectly. The bot consistently presses the power button.

5 rubber bands, 3 mental breakdowns and a lot of tinkering later, I fixed my centering mechanism with a budget of $0. (I’m really proud of this btw)

Дело бы вечером делать было нечего, а ну ещё я хочу к ним добавить фонарик, а также вы тоже можете накинуть идеи

Also why is this HP case upside down? Why they be like that...

These were the last parts I had at my work and i needed to squeeze out one more desktop for someone.

This Wi-Fi dongle (Netgear A6100) was bought new 8 years ago for €40 and served almost every day. It was connected to the 5GHz network, going up to 180 Mbps, which is quite good for this 15-year-old PC.

Unfortunately 3 days ago, it seemed to have surrendered with successive heatwaves (the 5th since May) and transfer speed started to drop to almost zero while staying connected to the network (Windows was showing everything was okay with the signal to the router, but attempting to reach something resulted to '80s-like transfer speeds with a whopping 4 KB/s). Connecting to the 5GHz network became very random, accepting to connect whenever it want. Shit have a proper life atp.

Unplugging it and let it cooling down generally solves the issue for an hour or two, then you have to start over to cool it down.

But as I need that dongle to do its job, I opened it, tried to locate quickly where the heat comes from, grabbed two nails that were lying in a box, applied a drop of thermal paste and applied the nails on the two major heat sectors (one of the main Realtek chip (after cutting the small part of the USB port metal that was over the chip) and the other on the antenna that was also very hot).

Since I did that it haven't overheat yet, although I'll probably have to find a better solution (fix the nails better), and eventually replace it.

But at least it works now without interruption.

I bought a wii charging dock from Aliexpress and only the dock arrived. No battery packs and I was unable to find anyone selling the batteries separately. I decided to try make my own, it can definitely be refined but here's what I've done incase anyone is interested.

I printed out an image of the battery pack to scale so I could line up the holes. The holes fit perfectly ontop of the Nintendo logo and I also made a hole for the sync button. I then cut the heads off 4 nails, sanded them down and soldered wires to them.

I ran them through the cover and used a soldering iron to melt the nails into the cover and then used hot glue on the inside. On the remote, I had to remove some material to allow clearance for the charging contacts and wires. If you use thinner or shorter wires, you might not have to remove any material.

I connected the wires to the bottom terminals of the controller and I'm using 1.2v 4500mAh rechargeable batteries.

I've heard that alot of the battery packs available don't last very long. It's also annoying if it doesn't match your controller's color scheme.

This might be a good option in those cases.

I got this steel shelf and wanted to move my pc to it, I didn't have a monitor mount at the time and did this. Longer Wrenches may have been better choices but this worked ok. Then I got a monitor mount and wanted it clamped on the shelf, I got some leftover wood planks so the clamp has more stuff to hold onto. Sorry for the potato quality on the last pic, it was taken from a video I sent to a group chat.

I was reading that someone on here made ascript for this, but Im not very savvy and, they kept making mistakes and uploading new scripts, so I was like wait a minute what if I just "block it with my ad blocker??" I used uBlock Origin, (Add-on) I'm using Firefox, so open the transcript, right click on any of the timestamps, click "Block Element" a box appears. click "pick", click any timestamp, It will highlight in red. click "Create" Done.

The screenshot I added you can see there is none, look at the bottom right hand corner. I made sure to get the current date and time to prove this was not taken from before the UI change.

Still works. Battery replaced with the 2017-2018 chinese 18650 and the speakers are changed.

~1mo of battery life, and 5h of charging.(tested)

And yeah, they're sounds really good.

Is it horrible? Yeah. Weird? Absolutely. Works fine? Of course!

I was using a $2 chinese soldering iron, self-made rosin, and some weird tin that I got from the PSU PCB.

I got them from my father, and they was completely dead. So, I used some trash, aand that's it.

And about my desk, that was just my printer cartridge refilling.

At the start of this year, i posted here about a 3.5mm headphone dongle i made for my laptop. Reasons? Original port is damaged, laptop long after warranty, i lack the skills to replace the on-board port and i am too cheap to get it serviced.

The dongle has served me very well, but the cable slowly began to break due to getting bent too much. After about 7 months, i deemed it's time to make a rework. Cue this fucking thing. It has a coil sleeve to properly secure the cable now!

Hopefully this one lasts longer, but if not, the replacement only took about 30 minutes, so i'm not too worried about having to do this again in the future.

4 months ago when I changing my laptop heatsink and thermal paste. I over tighten the screws of heatsink very hard and a crack sound comes out.its been 4 months no issues and over heating and any suspicious behaviour. Does something cracked??

The first one was for an older secondary monitor that had a non removable VGA cable and because I wanted to have it plugged into gpu and only had a male display port to male VGA converter I made this female to female converter from leftover ethernet cable, cut off 0.75mm^(2) ferrule crimps to hold it in place and paper for isolation. Lasted half a year until I bought a proper converter.

The second one was to make lights work on an older Vespa scooter, because the spark plug wouldn't spark if the third wire was connected and it turned out the ignition switch was reassembled incorrectly.

Didn’t realize the oem io shield is part of the case before getting a new motherboard so I used pliers to peel it; gamers gotta game

Had to cut up my charging cable so it could fit into the weirdly placed charging port of my music box