I have an Ampeg Reverbrocket 212 that only occasionally has tube rattle. One thing I noticed is that when I play it a lot, the rattle seems to go away. When the amp has been sitting for a little while and I go back to it, the rattle comes back. Is it a temperature thing? A use thing? Any thoughts?
Hi, I'm looking to buy a Marshall SV20H for home/apartment gaming. Will the Rivera Rockcrusher attenuator be suitable for this purpose? I have 16 ohm can Marshall jvmc212. Will it allow me to crank the amp to maximum and lower the volume enough to not significantly degrade its sound or disturb the neighbors? Will the studio mode allow me to lower the volume to the level of a hairdryer or vacuum cleaner, around 80 dB?
To elaborate on yesterday's post here is the problem u am experiencing, the effects loop works with other pedals and thus exact setup worked on my ond amp (crate blue voodoo 60) this exact setup also seams to work with my bass amp (ampeg b3). Could this just the decimator and the peavey reacting to the patch cables in the effects loop or could it be something else?
These tubes are original from the late 50’s
Problem no sound out of the speaker out
Throughout all my tests I can’t find anything wrong with the board or connections
Line out works, all of the knobs work so I’ve ruled out the DSP
No resistors or diodes appear burned. All diodes and resistors I’ve tested are in spec. None of the fuses have popped
My guess is the power tube has failed. I’ve swapped the pre-amp tube with no luck. I don’t have a spare 6v6 to test. But the resistors between the tubes did get hot when powered on
Tubes glow “normally” hard to see the power tube with its coating. They are most likely the factory tubes. Any ideas?
Hello! I have this vacuum tube and I can't for the life of me find any information on it. Any help is much appreciated!
Metal monster......
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Thank you, everyone! Grateful to this very engaged and helpful subreddit!!
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I have a Motorola case that I’ve had some trouble dating. To me, it looks retro / mid-century. From what I’ve been able to glean online, the MOTOROLA verbiage is 1950s & has been used through the early 2000s. I haven’t been able to match the logo to an era - I haven’t seen anything online on it. I assume it was used to carry tubes and other technicians gear? Anyone on here use one to help verify info on it? Thanks, in advance.
***I’ve gotten some useful information. Thanks to all who replied! Hope the info helps others.***
Hello, everyone. Apologies if I am posting in the wrong subreddit - please let me know if there’s a better place.
I have a small box of a bunch of tubes, but can’t tell if they’re blown / burnt out. I don’t have a tester and with as many as I have, I’d probably need multiple tester - not in the cards for me.
Do the tubes in the image look unusable or are testers really the only way to truly tell. I have zero experience with amp/tubes.
Thanks in advance.
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Hey everyone, I’d love some real‑world input from people who’ve owned or played these amps.
I’m choosing between the Blackstar HT‑1R MKIII combo and the HT‑5R MKIII combo, and my use case is a bit specific:
🎸 My playing situation
- Apartment volume: 80–82 dB max
- I play mostly hard rock, classic metal, 80s leads, and expressive stuff (Gary Moore, Slash, etc.)
- I want a small tube combo as a “toy” — something fun, alive, and inspiring
- I don’t need versatility, just tube feel
- I’ll sometimes push the amp with an OD pedal
- I also use delay and sometimes a looper, so an FX loop might matter
🎯 What I’m trying to figure out
At 80–82 dB, which amp gives me:
- More tube feel (sag, bloom, squish, alive under the fingers)
- More sustain when pushed with an OD
- Better pushed‑clean feel
- Better tight metal rhythm when needed
- More fun as a small “fling” amp
🥊 My dilemma
- I love the size and weight of the HT‑1R MKIII — it’s the perfect tiny tube toy.
- But the HT‑5R MKIII has the FX loop, more headroom, and a bigger power tube (12BH7).
- At my volume limit, the HT‑1R might actually compress more and feel more “tube‑alive,”
while the HT‑5R might stay tighter and cleaner.
❓ So I’m asking you all:
At 80–82 dB, which amp actually FEELS more like a tube amp?
And which one fits my style better?
Brought her home from the flea market this past weekend!
Hi guys! So long story short I want to go Peavey Invective.MH -> Tone King Iron Man II Attenuator -> Quad Cortex -> Quad Cortex Speaker Cab Block -> Fender FR-12. Where my question really lies is between the Attenuator and the Quad Cortex. The attenuator has a “line out” on the back and an XLR DI out (but it looks like it applies cab simulation to the DI out). Can I use the line out and just put that into input 1/2 on the Quad Cortex?
I just wasn’t sure if line out is appropriate to be used as input to the QC or not. I kind of thought it would be fine but I don’t want to damage anything. I added a picture of the back panel of the attenuator, and some screenshots from the manual where it talks about the back panel (specifically line-out and XLR DI out). Thanks in advance!
Hello,
I've got a mid 70's Fender PA 100. The PA has two separate 8ohm speaker outs that have to be used. I've previously run into two separate 8ohm speaker cabs. However carrying around two cabs is a pain.
Does anyone here know of a good horizontal cab that has two speaker inputs in a single unit, a 4ohm 2x12 combo of some kind? Or is this something I'll have to get custom wired.
Thanks in advance!
Hey r/tubeamps,
First post here. I’m not really coming from the “I made a startup” side of this. I’m a tube amp builder / obsessive tube nerd. I’ve spent years building and experimenting with tube circuits, including more unusual high-voltage / big bottle projects around things like GMI-90, MC1/60, GU-81, 4Y100R...
At some point I got tired of the same problem over and over: datasheets in one place, plate curves somewhere else, SPICE models in random files, loadline calculators on old pages, forum wisdom everywhere, and a lot of tube amp “rules” repeated without always showing what is happening electrically.
So I started building the tool I wish I had.
It’s called Ampera:
https://amperatubes.com
The basic idea is: pick a tube >>>look at the datasheet / curves >>choose an operating point >> move the loadline >>check dissipation >compare another tube >> look at SPICE/Koren data >> understand what the circuit is actually doing.
It is not meant to tell anyone what “sounds best”. I’m actually trying to make it as anti-dogma as possible.
Not “NOS tube X is magic”. Not “modern tube Y is garbage”.Not “this topology is always better”.
More like:
what changed electrically? where is the operating point?what load does the tube really see?
is the tube inside its limits? is the next stage loading it? Is the bias sane?
is the hum from heaters, ripple, grounding, layout, or something else?
For normal tube amp work, I’m trying to make it useful around common tubes too:
12AX7 / ECC83, 12AT7, 12AU7, EF86, 6V6, 6L6, EL84, EL34, KT66, KT88, 5Y3, GZ34, 5U4, etc.
There are tube pages with specs, pinouts, datasheets, plate curves, operating presets, loadline tools, SPICE model data, comparisons and practical notes.
There is also a Learn section with interactive modules on:
Right now the site has 333 tubes, 211 SPICE models and 54 interactive guides.
It’s still in beta!!!!! and this is exactly the point where I’d rather have amp people tear it apart than let it become a nice-looking tool with bad assumptions.
I’d really appreciate feedback on:
This does not replace datasheets, measurements, a scope, a meter, or experience. It’s meant to be a learning/design aid between “I found this tube” and “I understand what I can build or debug around it.”
Thanks to anyone willing to take a look and give serious criticism. :)
Have a great Day..
Jean-Michel
So i made a tube preamp that can do different levels of coldcut overdrive, has a simple FMV tonestack with a... uhh... WTF switch that i initially made by mistake, but decided to make it a feature. No idea how it works, but it changes properties of "High" potentiometer.
At 70%+ Gain pot the palm mutes start to properly chug and the Pick Squeals almost play themselves (when i try to play normal notes).
But... My cheapo Ibanez has real buzzy pickups. So demo is delayed until i either do away with the buzz or get better pickups.