r/virago | reddlx

Virago headlights not turning off + draining battery while running (FIX)

This connector was fused together, creating a short. This is to the ignition switch. I figure someone might have the same problem eventually.

The symptoms were:

Headlight would stay on in OFF position

and

Driving down road battery drained to 5v, and then sputtered and shut off like it was out of gas.

confirmed the short with multi meter. Now just gotta cut this guy out and wire up a new one or do a straight wire i guess.

u/Senior-Purchase-6961 — 2 days ago

▲ 5 r/virago

Exhaust cover sourcing

Hello!

1991 xv535 (uk based). This cover has come loose and it appears the are built in exhaust clamp/jubilee clips to hold in place against the exhaust itself.

But for the life of me I cant figure out what part it is!

I keep being suggested 2GV-14603-00-00 but the cover does not match to my eyes..

Help please!

Option B is to simply jubilee it back in place...

u/-usernamewitheld- — 2 days ago

▲ 3 r/virago+1 crossposts

Front and rear carburetor needle clip position – Virago 535

Hi everyone,

I have a 1999 Yamaha XV535 Virago and I'm trying to confirm the correct needle clip positions for the two carburetors.

I recently opened the carburetors because I found that the needle assembly was not properly secured. One of the springs/retaining parts was missing, and the needle was loose inside the slide. I fixed the assembly and installed everything correctly again.

The problem is that I don't know what the original clip positions were. When I reassembled them, I put both needle clips in the same position.

According to the service manual, my needles are:

Front cylinder: 5DZ13-2

Rear cylinder: 5DZ14-2

The manual seems to show the needle codes, but it isn't very clear about the individual clip position for each needle.

After putting both clips in the same position, the bike became much better at mid and high RPM. I can ride at around 140 km/h and it runs very well overall. However, at low RPM it now has a noticeable flat spot/hesitation when opening the throttle, and sometimes it gives a small jerk/bump when I decelerate and then open the throttle again, especially at low speed.

Before I fixed the loose needle assembly, I didn't notice this particular jerk/behavior, although the bike was definitely weaker and the carburetor was not working correctly.

I have already adjusted the pilot mixture and synchronized the carburetors, and the idle is now much better. The remaining issue is mainly the low-speed throttle response.

So my main question is:

What is the correct factory needle clip position for the 5DZ13-2 on the front cylinder and the 5DZ14-2 on the rear cylinder of a 1999 XV535?

I found some information saying 5DZ13 = position 3 and 5DZ14 = position 4, but I don't know if that applies to my 1999 model/year or only to certain markets/versions.

Does anyone have a 1998–1999 XV535, preferably the same market/version, and can confirm the original clip positions?

Thanks!

u/LFGrifo — 4 days ago

▲ 3 r/virago+1 crossposts

XV1100 cylinder liner/sleeve is loose – normal from the factory or a problem?

Hello,

I am rebuilding a Yamaha XV1100 Virago engine and have found something unusual with the cylinder liners. I would especially like to hear from people who have actually disassembled, rebored, resleeved, or rebuilt XV1000/XV1100 engines.

The engine has aluminum cylinders with cast-iron liners/sleeves.

After removing the cylinders from the crankcase, I found that the cast-iron liner was surprisingly loose in the aluminum cylinder. At room temperature, the liner can be removed by hand without using a press or heating the cylinder.

Initially, I assumed that the aluminum cylinder had expanded or become permanently distorted after many years of heat cycles.

However, I then bought another used XV1100 cylinder from a completely different engine, and found essentially the same condition: its liner is also loose enough to be removed by hand.

I showed the parts to an experienced engine machine shop. Their engineer suggested that it may actually have been designed this way from the factory, rather than both cylinders having developed the same problem.

Another engine machinist had the opposite opinion. He thought that the liner should have an interference fit with the aluminum cylinder, and that a loose liner could reduce heat transfer from the iron liner to the aluminum cylinder. He was concerned that oil could enter the gap and increase the thermal resistance, possibly causing the liner/piston to run hotter.

So I am trying to determine what the original Yamaha design was before modifying anything.

Has anyone here actually removed the liner from an XV1000 or XV1100 cylinder?

In particular, I would really appreciate information on the following:

Was the liner tight at room temperature, or could it be removed by hand?
Did you have to heat the aluminum cylinder to remove the liner?
If you have measured them, what were the liner outside diameter and the aluminum cylinder bore diameter?
Is there supposed to be an interference fit, zero-clearance fit, or a small clearance between the liner and cylinder?
Have you seen several XV1100 cylinders with loose liners like this?
Has anyone run an XV1100 for a long time with a liner that was loose at room temperature?
If you had this problem, did you repair it? If so, how — oversize liner, plating, thermal spray/metal spraying, retaining compound, or another method?

I am particularly interested in first-hand experience with XV1000/XV1100 engines, rather than general rules for automotive dry cylinder liners, because I now have two unrelated XV1100 cylinders showing the same condition.

I do not want to increase the liner OD or create an interference fit until I know whether Yamaha intentionally designed these cylinders with a very light fit.

Photos and measurements can be provided if useful.

Thank you very much for any first-hand information.

reddit.com

u/Barony-T — 9 days ago

▲ 13 r/virago+1 crossposts

Yamaha Virago 535 $2500

Yamaha Virago custom Bobber for sale in North Okangan Canada BC. PM for serious inquiries ONLY.

ABOUT: Pulls hard, easy to ride, lightweight, low seat and great for all rider types. Clean title and insured. In great shape and starts instantly. Runs beautifully and has a choke.

Only 23,600 km.

New front tire

New battery

Fresh carb rebuild

New fork seals

New stator, alternator and rectifier

New fuel pump

Brand new fuel filters

New grips

New bobber seat

New rear differential oil

Custom exhaust wrap

Custom rebar sissy bar

Custom LED tail and turn signals ran through the rear frame

A few things to note:

-The front brake lever is custom cut down about 1/4 and welded for ease and comfort. It could easily be replaced if desired.

-Could use a new bolt head on the exhaust pipe header.

-The bike has been kept covered and will be ridden until it sells.

u/Still-Obligation6648 — 10 days ago

▲ 12 r/virago

Selling ‘98 Virago 1100 for $1100

Only 9500 miles, nothing wrong with it. I’m losing my garage spot and I also need the money.

Have title and all. I may even include a couple like-new helmets….

It’s in central Massachusetts. Come get it!

u/CapGrundle — 13 days ago

▲ 7 r/virago+1 crossposts

I’m selling ‘98 Virago 1100 for $1100.

Only 9500 miles, nothing wrong with it. I’m losing my garage spot and I need the money too.

Have title and all. I may even include a couple like-new helmets….

It’s in central Massachusetts. Come get it!

u/CapGrundle — 14 days ago

▲ 1 r/virago

Rubber in my float bowl?

Hi guys,
I took off my carburetor because I'm experiencing a loss of power.
While removing the float bowl, I immediately noticed black rubber pieces originating from that PVC tube thing where the main jet is located. What is this, and how can I remove it? I couldn't find anything about it in the manual. Also, the main jet won't come out—it just spins in place...

u/Organic-Expression-8 — 14 days ago