





Hey folks, I pulled my gauge cluster to fix the sticky needles, and when I put it back in the CEL no longer works. Everything else seems to be working well. Any ideas?
Hey everyone,
I have a 1996 Mercedes C280 W202 with the M104 inline-6 and automatic transmission. I’m trying to track down an intermittent drivability issue and wanted to see if anyone here has experienced something similar.
Current symptoms
Car sometimes stalls when coming to a stop (traffic lights, speed bumps, very low speed deceleration)
Idle is usually stable, but occasionally oscillates slightly
Engine feels noticeably weaker when the A/C is on
Under heavier acceleration the car sometimes feels “loaded” or restricted
Occasionally there is a “pop”/backfire sound under acceleration
Transmission shifts smoothly under light throttle, but under hard acceleration it holds gears to very high RPM
Sometimes I smell something slightly burnt after spirited driving
Important discovery
At first I thought the popping sound was coming from the exhaust.
Today I opened the hood with the engine running and revved it by hand. The popping/backfire sound actually seems to come from the intake side near the MAF/intake boot area. I also noticed the intake hose/boot rapidly expanding (“inflating”) during the pop.
This made me start suspecting:
vacuum leak
cracked intake boot
IAC/idle air control related issue
intake side issue rather than exhaust
I’m going to remove and inspect the intake boot/sanfona for cracks, especially underneath.
What has already been replaced/repaired
Spark plugs are new
Ignition coils are new
Spark plug wires and boots are now new
Valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals were replaced previously because oil was getting into the plug wells
Engine wiring harness was reportedly inspected/repaired
MAF sensor is new
Transmission fluid/filter service done
Catalytic converter/exhaust work recently done
Injectors cleaned previously
Additional info
I found some oil residue inside the spark plug boots before replacing them
Car runs relatively OK under gentle driving/light throttle
Problems become more noticeable under load/high RPM
White vapor from exhaust seems light/normal condensation, especially in cold weather (not blue smoke)
Questions
Has anyone experienced intake backfire/popping on an M104 caused by vacuum leaks or intake boot cracks?
Could the IAC valve cause these exact symptoms?
Any common hidden vacuum leak locations on the W202 M104?
Could this still realistically be crankshaft position sensor related, or does it sound more intake/vacuum related?
Is there anything else specific to the M104 I should inspect?
Thanks a lot — trying to keep this car original and eventually get it ready for classic/collector registration in Brazil.
A month ago bought this set of monoblock for $250 dlls
They just need some love
Eventually I want to put some 255/35 in the rear
Front I got 225/40
Hello everyone, I have a 1994 C200 D, and during the first few days of driving it, I noticed that the fuel gauge was acting up. Sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn’t, and if I tapped the dashboard a few times, it would “come back to life.”
About a week ago, my speedometer needle jumped out of place after I hit the dashboard trying to get the fuel gauge working again, which forced me to remove the instrument cluster. While I had it apart, I cleaned the whole cluster inside with isopropyl alcohol and moved the temperature, fuel, speedometer, and RPM needles.
After reinstalling it, all the gauges were completely out of calibration: with the engine cold, the temperature gauge was already showing close to 80°C, the fuel gauge became completely inoperative, the speedometer was reading incorrectly, and the RPMs were showing higher than they should.
After opening it again, I managed to get the speedometer and RPM gauge working almost correctly, but I still have no idea how much fuel is in the car, and the temperature gauge is always stuck near 80°C.
What can I do to fix my instrument cluster?
The new rims i got for my w211. I figured someone would enjoy a pic from the car they came off of
I want to replace the damaged ring rubber on both rear speakers, is there a way to remove them without taking off the rear deck? These are non-bose version.