Finger strength and forearm strength

I recently talked to an online coach about some issues with finger strength i was experiencing. I was wondering what the difference in finger strength and forearm strength was as i understand our fingers don’t have muscles and the actual muscle that is doing the work is the forearm. however, by training our fingers what do we gain from that other than strengthening our pulleys.

and i also wanted to ask, if forearm strength is the dictator on how strong we can grip, why is it not the case for people with really strong forearms to not be able to hand onto a 5mm crimp?

i struggle a lot with slopers, so much so that any climb with slopers would be 1-2 grades lower than my usual grade i’d climb. and the coach mentioned that it is an issue with my forearm strength as i can’t generate the force required to be able to grip a sloper but my fingers can handle a small crimp

could someone please explain to me how our forearm and our finger links and what each does in our role of climbing?

thanks a lot :)

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u/-Sh0gun- — 11 days ago

How to grip properly?

I only recently got into climbing a few months ago and was full crimping everything and never knew there were even other ways of gripping. and now because of that i’m in a rehab phase for my fingers.

one issue i wanted to raise was. i cant physically not full crimp, and from what i found online its called hyperflexible dip joints, and i was wondering if anyone had any tips or tricks to fix this.

another question was on how to grip properly while doing rehab. every educational video ive found has told me to essentially build up weight with half crimps wether it be isometrics or crimp pulls. i wanted to ask where i should be putting the force from my fingers into?

i have attached a video below demonstrating what i mean as it might not make much sense.

am i pushing force into the tip of my fingertips and essentially curling my whole finger or am i pushing force into my pip joint and therefore leading to full crimping. and when i train my fingers like this. am i more thinking of trying to squeeze my hand shut or just move only my fingers?

https://youtube.com/shorts/JC17W9zfERE?si=Dc6g8GCgTcv7_-EB

u/-Sh0gun- — 11 days ago
▲ 7 r/iPhoneWale+1 crossposts

Iphone 17 now or wait till september drop?

So I got my iphone 14 back in december of whenever it came out ( sorry i dont rememeber when) but ive been using it the whole time and the battery has been dying so much to the point where if I have my data on, I will have to charge my phone 3-4 times while I'm out the house. The phone battery life is at 72%.

I am looking into buying phones now because just earlier today, I got a notification that my phone stopped charging because my phone obverheated. Mind you, this hapoened while my phone was charing in a air conditioned room. So ig its so bad that just charging my phone now overheats it.

I live in the UK but originally lived in UAE, and I found that IPhones in the UAE are much cheaper than in the UK. Currently if I wanted an iphone 17 in UAE it wld be 3399aed (699pounds) or in the uk it wld be 799pounds. So what ive confirmed is I want to buy one in the UAE.

I think im pretty deadset on buying the 17 as currently a 16 256gb would cost me 3799aed while a 17 256gb wld cost me 3399aed. and my other option is the 17 (3399aed) vs the 15 (2999aed) which is about a 80 pound difference/400aed difference for a difference in 2 generations. Seems like paying extra would be beneficial

My question is, should i wait for the september drop where the 18pro comes out? will that make the 17 base model cheaper? or do i just outright buy a 17 right now. I think i can hold out till the september drop but if its not gonna be much of a price difference i might just buy one now

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u/-Sh0gun- — 4 months ago