Electrolux service tips down?
Hey guys,
I've paid for a subscription from this website. It's been down for a week? Anyone know what's going on?
Everytime I try it just says 'your connection is not private'
Hey guys,
I've paid for a subscription from this website. It's been down for a week? Anyone know what's going on?
Everytime I try it just says 'your connection is not private'
Hey guys,
Working on a Bosch condenser dryer that's got me a bit stumped.
It's being used at a hair salon. Model is WTG86403UC
Issue is, it will randomly pause during the cycle. Be it 10-15 seconds after staring or halfway through.
Customer has cleaned out the sump area, condenser, drain hose etc to no avail.
I have blown through the drain hose, flushed the sump, cleaned the condenser, removed the front cover and rear access panel to check for air blockages, tested the heater and thermostats, removed the pump to check the electrodes and pump itself. All looked good.
I called Bosch tech support, who advised I should replace the pump. I did. Customer called back with the same issue.
Any ideas as to what could be causing this?
Error code history showed E02 the first time I went, nothing since then.
Factory test cycle was performed after the pump replacement. It passed with no faults.
Hey guys,
Working for a customer on a Bosch WTG86403UC condenser dryer.
Customer complaint: Dryer stops after a short period.
I went and started the unit, it runs for about 10-15 seconds then stops. Sometimes, it will beep with ''clean condenser' light.
Sometimes, customer can run it for half a cycle and then it stops.
They have been pretty good of keeping the condenser and surrounding area clean. Also advised me they flushed the sump and pump hose.
I have checked the moisture sensors, which seem ok.
I tried removing the pump, no blockage. Blew through the drain hose, all clear. Cleaned out the sump area as well.
Removed the rear air duct cover, inspected the heater - ok. NTC- OK.
I then put the drain pump assembly back in, and tried running the customer service factory test program.
It immediately defaults to E14 error, which are the pump sensor bars.
I also checked error history, and found a E02 and E92 stored.
Any ideas what will get this thing working again? I haven't worked on these units much.
I assume a new pump assembly with new sensor bars should do it, but any guidance is appreciated.
Only reason I'm doubtful are the other two codes.
I also tried running the pump test, the pump runs. I tried the sensor test, it fails and goes straight to E14.
Thanks!
Hey guys,
So my 6mth ownership of my 2012 6mt is looking expensive. Just had the clutch pedal get stuck to the floor. Thought I had the infamous slave issue, but it turned out to be a burst clutch line.
I had a look underneath and the rear subframe looks like it was dipped in the Pacific ocean for 5 years. Crusty as heck.
I used a needle scaler to sand it all down with plans to treat it with rust converter and undercoat, however, the needle scaler made a TINY sized hole less than a penny in diameter in one place.
So, I'm looking into replacing the rear subframe.
Anyone got a potential parts list of what I may need to get this done? Rear subframe and mounting bolts obviously. Are there any brackets, bolts or bushings I should get at the same time?
There's a frame restoration shop near me that does work for decent pricing here in Northern ON.
Anyone got swift springs on a rwd sedan? How's the ride quality for daily driving/winter driving?
How are they on long trips?
My concern is ride quality over jarring bumps. Don't want ride quality that is bouncy/jumpy and causes discomfort.
I live in northern Ontario, so most of the roads around here suck ass.
Anyone familiar with these GE cafe fridges, CWE19SP4NW2.
Have an intermittent cooling issue in the refrigerator section and ice around the freezer door. Gasket looks good, but I replaced it anyways. No other faults there.
However, when I have the unit plugged in/running, after a few minutes of the freezer door being open, the unit defaults to defrost. Also, the evap fan randomly starts running while the freezer door is open/off. I hit the door switch, it stops. When I let go, after 10 seconds, evap fan starts running.
I put unit on cooling off mode, same thing. Door open, evap fan starts running. Changed the main control just for fun, same scenario.
I got unit into test mode, everything checks out fine.
Smarthq isn't available in Canada, so that's no help.
Is this normal operation for these units?
Hey guys,
What are you guys using for aftermarket options now that supco is gone? My supply of lupni1 and heating elements is running low.
I just had to replace a Maytag fan motor, $277CAD retail cost to the customer. Insane.
I have started giving the option of Amazon parts, offered with no warranty.
Any other brands? I'm in Canada so get my parts from reliable/amre and marcone.
Hey guys,
I purchased a 2012 Infiniti g37 6mt 6 months ago. The previous owner replaced the OEM alternator for a AC Delco branded replacement.
Intermittently, the car will idle surge with lights flickering. I measured voltage when it does this, and it fluctuates from 14~ to 8~10 volts constantly as the idle surges up and down. Revving/blipping the throttle resolves it till the next time it decides to do it.
I have narrowed it down to the alternator. Now, since the alternator looks relatively brand new, I'd like to just rebuild it myself if possible.
I am not knowledgeable as to what needs to be done, but I assume the voltage regulator or bridge rectifier could be the culprit.
Are these parts available and where from would I find them?
Hey guys,
I purchased a 2012 Infiniti g37 6mt 6 months ago. The previous owner replaced the OEM alternator for a AC Delco branded replacement.
Intermittently, the car will idle surge with lights flickering. I measured voltage when it does this, and it fluctuates from 14~ to 8~10 volts constantly as the idle surges up and down. Revving/blipping the throttle resolves it till the next time it decides to do it.
I have narrowed it down to the alternator. Now, since the alternator looks relatively brand new, I'd like to just rebuild it myself if possible.
I am not knowledgeable as to what needs to be done, but I assume the voltage regulator or bridge rectifier could be the culprit.
Are these parts available and where from would I find them?
My slave cylinder just let go. 2012 6mt sedan with 151k kms
What clutch kit would you choose for long term reliability? I'm not planning on doing an external slave.
Tried looking up HD CSCs but no one has stock and the duties to Canada will be insane!
Hey guys,
Joining the failed slave cylinder gang. Parked car in a parking lot and clutch got stuck to the floor. Noticed a large puddle of brake fluid 15 min after.
How difficult is this to diy on jackstands? Most complex job I've diy'd is Honda j35 timing belts, and a few gas tanks.
Would be my first time removing a transmission. I am also going to get some quotes here locally to see how much labor I'll be charged CAD$.
What other parts do I need to buy apart from a slave cylinder and new clutch?
Thanks!
Anyone ever had success or have a method to get these scratches out or reduced?
This is the look I'm going for with my 6mt sedan. Same colour.
What colour are these headlight housings if anyone can tell?
Black looks too tacky/dark imo, it seems these are like a dark grey or anthracite or something?
photos are from a member of a g37 forum
Any ideas?
Hey guys,
I am the owner/operator of an appliance repair company in Ontario. Only tech is me.
I just got my domestic appliance license issued by the tssa, which allows me to work on gas stoves and dryers.
I am registering my company with the tssa and see they require a pre-authorization inspection.
What is involved in this inspection? What tools will I require that they need to see? I will only be servicing these appliances (no installs, no pipe running etc).
How shall I prepare myself for this inspection?
Thanks!
Hey guys,
Working on a JCB840ST1SS stove. The original issue was - no air fry, no oven light working. Other bake/broil settings work, just no oven light or convection fan.
I inspected it, found the motherboard to be bad, replace it. Tested it for a few minutes with the oven light on, and on the air fry setting.
Convection fan and oven light, air fry setting were ok.
Customer called me back that evening saying they tried air fry setting, and it blew the board again. They heard a pop around the board area and the oven light, and air fry/conv fan don't work. Rest of the oven works fine.
What's going on? Anyone seen this issue pop up before? Obviously it has something to do with either the conv fan circuit, or oven light circuit I believe
Thanks!
Hey guys,
I am working on a customers fridge. Lg ldn20718sw.
The fan motor failed a few months ago, which we replaced with a new one.
Now, the fridge will randomly, intermittently show a 67 error fault on the right side display and unit won't run or cool. Customer unplugs and replugs after a minute, it's fine until the next time the error comes back.
Its intermittent so I'm having a hard time troubleshooting as every time I arrive, the units perfect.
No excess frost buildup, nothing in the way of the fan, fan is spinning and getting power when I go there. Connections are tight.
Any ideas?
EDIT: condenser fan is running, coils have a nice frost layer, condenser is not dirty. but compressor is severely overheated.
Weak overheating compressor maybe?
customer says the issue has started to get more frequent. From once every week, to 4 times a day now