r/G37

Has someone attempted to take or replace their wood grain? I'm not a big fan of it. Any problems or issues with removing it?

I’m so incredibly happy to be able to own this car. Any suggestions on what i should do to it cosmetically?

would i need a tune to run these? there’s no info bout it under the post

Y pipe flange gave on my stock G. Hello Gross exhaust leak. Any recommendations retaining ~2.5” all the way back? I have set of test pipes laying on my living room floor since the flex pipes gave 2x while I was in PA. Shot motor mounts is the most likely culprit for that issue 🙃

I already charged the battery what do you guys think starter ???

Is there any way to fix? If not can anyone help find a replacement for the sports seats? I see a lot of cheap options for around $50 but only for base models

I do also have an exhaust leak btw
I’m also getting this codes aswell

P2098
Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean
Bank 2

P2096
Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 1

I hit a pretty big bump and afterward my steering started feeling heavier. It’s not extremely hard to steer and I still have power steering, but it’s heavier than it was before.
I noticed some fluid underneath the car around the driver side, so my first thought is that I may have a power steering fluid leak. However, the power steeringfluid level in the reservoir doesn’t seem to be dropping, and I’m not leaving obvious puddles where I park.
The steering was normal earlier in the day, then became heavier after the car had been running for a while.
Im trying to figure out what it may be now and if its expensive or not because i have a limited time in a garage on saturday.
2010 Infiniti G37 Coupe.

On August 13th, I was doing a spirited drive, like I usually do multiple times a week. On the way home afterward, I noticed that when coming to a stop, the car started to stumble. It only happened twice, and I also noticed a whirring noise coming from underneath the vehicle that wasn't there previously.

Ever since then, the car has had the same noise, but it only occurs when the transmission is in Drive or Reverse. After doing some research, I started to suspect the torque converter.

Six days later, I dropped the transmission pan to look for debris and found a lot of glitter, but no large chunks. The transmission still shifts and idles fine, with no slipping or anything else that seems abnormal. However, I have noticed that the transmission temperature easily climbs to 250°F when idling after a drive, so I'm thinking the transmission cooler may be clogged.

I've stopped driving the vehicle for now, and I'm trying to figure out what I should do next. Should I just replace the torque converter and take the chance, or should I replace the torque converter, valve body, and transmission all at the same time? I'm mainly trying to figure out what I can get away with repairing without having to replace everything if the transmission itself is still in good shape.

When I bought the car, it had 65,000 miles on it, and it currently has 95,000 miles. I've serviced the transmission twice during that time, but only performed drain-and-fills, using Matic S fluid.

Cars cold, hasnt been ran and as soon as i fill it up it starts leaking and this is all im seeing, im thinking thermostat housing?

It’s a 2013 g37x with long tube headers, 3in intakes, 1050cc injectors with a aem 340 pump on e85, full isr exhaust, catch cans, z1 carbon fenders, carbon steering wheel/ paddle shifters, q50 shift knob. The maintenance is front and rear diff fluid change, transmission flush, valve cover gasket/ spark plugs, metal heater hose upgrades, intake and throttle body gaskets, brake pads/ fluid, new battery. The cars been tuned by admin for over a year now and it’s perfect.

yesterday morning and this morning my car started up rough. stuttering and popping for about 5 seconds then car warms up perfectly fine and drives perfectly fine. no loss of power or anything besides that. this morning when i started it, a ses light popped up. i’ve been reading some of the other posts but the difference is my car is running perfect. replaced spark plugs less than 10k miles ago.

I bought these Spec Ds used off marketplace as my OEM lenses were destroyed by UV damage. I transferred every part off my OEMs which did work fine, the main beam will turn on fine then start blinking/flashing after 10-30s then shut off entirely. This is on both sides but there is no pattern. One side could stay on for a few minutes, or 15 seconds. If I flick them off then on they both turn back on as expected. Plugs are tight and clipped in, the battery terminal is tight and, same behavior when driving (car running) any ideas? Also you can hear an electric buzzing sound when the headlights are flashing with the volume up.