u/8cuban

Related to my other post about a stuck seat lock preventing access to my dead battery, which isn’t getting much traction, is it possible to bump start it with a dead battery? I tried it in 1st and 2nd gear but all that happened was the rear wheel locked up.

Is there another way to get the seat off a 2025 Trident? The release cable seems to be jammed. The key is hard to turn and at full turn it won’t release the seat. I may have misrouted it when I installed a Quadlock power cable. The seat is a problem but it’s timely because my battery seems to be dead and bump steering hasn’t worked.

Help!

Am I the only one who finds the front forks very spongy and over reactive to braking? It may just be I only have about 2,000 miles on the bike so still getting used to it, but it feels like even slight braking causes the front to dive out of proportion to the amount of brake.

Is this normal for this kind of bike or am just not smooth enough with the brakes?

After 12 years away from riding I bought a new Trident660 last summer. I like the bike and really appreciate all the modern tech and safety features, especially as I’m basically back to being a beginner again. But my mind constantly comes back to the Sprint ST my riding buddy had when I lived in the UK back in the’00s. I don’t know what it is about it but I always coveted that bike and still think it looks fabulous. I got to ride it once and, coming from a Harley Sportster, the experience was like being hit by a bolt of lightning! To this day I still vividly remember turning left out of Loomie’s car park alongside my mate and falling in behind a lorry at the light. When it turned green we followed behind but, as we crawled up the hill, my mate pulled out to pass. I followed him and only rolled on about 1/4 throttle in 3rd gear to overtake. Jesus Christ, did that beauty take off! I were doing 30 mph up a hill when I started my overtake and by the time I got even with the front of the lorry I was shocked to find I was doing 90 and still accelerating!

Given that they’re now all over 20 years old, with technology and design of that era, am I stupid for thinking I still want one today?

Niche request here but does anyone have recommendations for a mechanic shop that can work on 1960s vintage Ford transmissions? Got a 1965 Mustang that is leaking from the front seal to the engine so it's a bit of a specialist job these days. Thanks!

(I debated the correct flair to choose, "recommendation" or "history". Both seemed to apply)

*rower

I’ve only ever seen Viking longboats represented as completely open, single deck ocean-going craft with no info on stowage space or shelter for the crew. How were food, water, and other supplies carried and how were the crew protected from the harsh elements when on long voyages in the North Sea? How long would they be at sea and What was life onboard actually like?

I find that many cars have unrealistically wide turning radii at slow speeds even at full lock unless I slow way down at which point the turn will often tighten up. This isn’t understeer. It feels like deliberate settings in the physics, as though the model makes turning radii speed dependent. This is especially evident in the downhill hairpins on Eiger Nordwand.

Am I the only one who notices this? If not, what might be causing it and is there anything I can do to make the steering radius at full lock tighter?

I'm pulling my hair out trying to get Chat (Dall-E, actually) to create a fairly simple image showing a dozen locations and labels on a map. Every time I direct it to make a specific edit (like replace a single location icon with a different icon) it makes some new random change somewhere else, like moving another icon away from the correct location, so I then have to go chase that new error. I've done over a dozen versions, each one with new random errors, when the first version only had 3 minor corrections to make.

Is there a trick to editing images or is this just a flaw in the app that means I should abandon it for images entirely?

I've been playing GT7, my first version, for a year and a half. Ive really enjoyed it and learned a ton about the craft. I just started ACC this week, too. That's turning out to be a blast and I really have GT7 and this community to thank for everything I learned from here. I don't think I'd enjoy ACC very much if I went into it as my first racing game with no background as it is so much more technically challenging.

I'd like to hear people's thoughts on iRacing compared to either GT7 or ACC. How do the physics and the experience compare to the other 2? Is it worth the subscription price?

So I'm having a couple of issues with my 1965 289 V8. For context the engine has an Edelbrock 600 4 bbl carb, cross plane intake manifold, twin exhaust with aftermarket headers, and soft cam. I've just replaced the head gasket.

First problem - she's just stubborn about starting and she'll often immediately die unless I goose the throttle quickly. It takes a lot of turning over before she'll catch even when she's just been running and is still at operating temp. It doesn't matter what starting technique I use - pumping the gas pedal once, twice, not at all, gas pedal half depressed when cranking, not depressed at all. None of that seems to make a difference.

Second problem- When I goose the throttle to keep her running after starting, that often inadvertently kicks down the auto choke and she'll surge/hunt the idle for a couple minutes until she starts warming up. She's always done that a bit but, the new problem is that recently it's gotten a lot worse, to the point that she will barely idle and is on the verge of quitting at the bottom of the surges.

My questions:

1. Since she's always been stubborn about starting and staying running, what can I do to solve that problem?

2. Could the new extreme surging be related to the new head gasket, like she's getting less air then before so the idle mixture is different?

Any ideas, anyone?

Mechanic may have overfilled the C4 transmission on my '65, which is causing it to leak out of the pan gasket. Is just pulling the drain plug the best way to take some out to get it down to the right level?

I was also thinking that, since you have to check it while it's hot and running, that it may be easier to just drain it completely and fill with the correct amount rather than try to drain some out and tinkering with it.

What’s your philosophy toward upgrading or modding cars? Do you try to retain some of the original character of the car or do you max upgrades for fun out to max out the capabilities?

I try to treat the categories somewhat realistically. For instance, for a road car competing in a clubman race I’ll add upgrades a hobbyist owner might reasonably to do a road car such as adding sport brakes, tires, and suspension, maybe a two-way LSD, exhaust and air intake or a turbo but that’s about it.

How much do you mod or upgrade cars after you buy them? Do they come stock with reasonable approximation of the actual performance of the real thing? If so, wouldn’t modding them a lot turn them into something entirely different and less realistic? Do you end up making your cars pretty similar with mods so there’s less discernible difference in the performance?

All of this is presuming you want to preserve some of the character that makes each car unique.

What product have people used to prevent scratches on a black tank from jacket zippers? I haven't found the right kind of thing on RevZilla and the Triumph accessories website is useless.