









First time sewing a pair of jeans
I just finished sewing my first pair of selvedge denim jeans.
This was my first time sewing a pair of pants, and only my third sewing project overall since buying a Singer Heavy Duty 6335M denim version in February. I started sewing with the goal of eventually being able to make my own jeans, so this project was basically what I had been working toward from the beginning.
The main reason I wanted to make them was that my favorite fitting pair of pants is a pair of Ben Davis Trim Fits. I really like the fit, but I was not fully happy with the fabric quality, since they started pilling quite quickly after only a few wears. I wanted to make a denim version with a similar fit, but in a fabric that felt more substantial.
The other reason is that I am a big fan of frog mouth pockets, and I could not really find jeans that had them. So I added them myself.
The denim is 14 oz selvedge denim from Kuroki Mill in Japan. For the thread, I used Eduard Kupfer poly core wrapped in cotton thread , and for the needle, I used a 100/16 needle.
I sewed them on a Singer Heavy Duty home sewing machine. Overall, it was definitely doable, but there were quite a few moments where I had to turn the wheel by hand, especially over thicker areas and the flat felled seams.
I self-drafted the pattern by measuring and copying my Ben Davis Trim Fit pants onto craft paper. I did not make a test pair first, which I probably should have done. The upper block ended up with a bit more room than the Ben Davis pair, but overall I am quite happy with the fit. They are still very stiff, so I am curious to see how they break in.
The whole process, from drafting the pattern to finishing the sewing, took about two weeks.
I have not soaked or washed them yet. I plan to do that next, mainly to remove some of the chalk lines. Unfortunately, I think I should have left the inseam and outseam a bit longer, since I expect the denim to shrink a little. I do like a big cuff, but somehow I seem to have cut them slightly shorter than planned.
One thing I would do differently next time is the yoke. I forgot to properly account for seam allowance when cutting the back panel, so I had to make the yoke a bit bigger. Because of that, the back pockets sit a little lower than I would like. Next time, I would make the yoke shorter and place the pockets slightly higher.
I still need to add the rivets and buttons. Unfortunately, there is no store near me where I can easily buy them, and most online options have pretty expensive shipping, so I am still figuring out what to do there.
I might also add two extra belt loops to give them a bit more of a workwear look.
Overall, I am really happy with how they turned out for a first pair, and I learned a lot from the process. Happy to hear any thoughts, feedback, or tips for the next pair.