Image 1 — Building a 170cm Zangetsu (PETG) - Need Advice on Reinforcement and Assembly
Image 2 — Building a 170cm Zangetsu (PETG) - Need Advice on Reinforcement and Assembly

Building a 170cm Zangetsu (PETG) - Need Advice on Reinforcement and Assembly

Hey, so I’m currently printing Ichigo’s massive Zangetsu sword (170 cm long), and there’s a channel running through most of its length that’s designed to hold a metal C-channel (a metal profile). It’s supposed to act as an internal reinforcement so the sword doesn’t bend or break under its own weight, since I’m printing it in PETG and it’s going to be pretty heavy at this size.
The problem is that the sword is split into a lot of separate printed parts (24, I think), and I need to join everything together properly. Do you think I should use super glue for the joints, or would something stronger be better?
Also, what’s the best way to secure the metal C-channel itself? It runs through most of the sections, but there are a few pieces that don’t have a slot for it. How would you connect those parts?
I want the whole thing to be genuinely rigid and durable, not something that falls apart the first time I hold it.
One more issue I’ve run into: I’ve already printed three or four sections, but they were printed with only two walls, a brim, and supports. I generated the supports automatically in Creality Print, and because the sword sections are printed horizontally rather than vertically, the internal channel for the metal reinforcement requires support material.
The problem is that the supports are being generated inside the channel itself. From the sides, the channel is clear, but from the top, the support structures partially block it, making it impossible to slide the metal C-channel through afterward. Removing all of that support material from such a long, narrow channel seems extremely difficult.
Would it make more sense to print the sections vertically instead so the internal channel doesn’t need supports at all? I’m trying to figure out the best way to keep the channel completely clear while still getting reliable prints. I’m also concerned about print strength, since these sections are part of a 170 cm sword and I want the final assembly to be as rigid and durable as possible.

u/AdameQQQ_ — 1 day ago

Building a 170cm Zangetsu (PETG) - Need Advice on Reinforcement and Assembly

Hey, so I’m currently printing Ichigo’s massive Zangetsu sword (170 cm long), and there’s a channel running through most of its length that’s designed to hold a metal C-channel (a metal profile). It’s supposed to act as an internal reinforcement so the sword doesn’t bend or break under its own weight, since I’m printing it in PETG and it’s going to be pretty heavy at this size.
The problem is that the sword is split into a lot of separate printed parts (24, I think), and I need to join everything together properly. Do you think I should use super glue for the joints, or would something stronger be better?
Also, what’s the best way to secure the metal C-channel itself? It runs through most of the sections, but there are a few pieces that don’t have a slot for it. How would you connect those parts?
I want the whole thing to be genuinely rigid and durable, not something that falls apart the first time I hold it.
One more issue I’ve run into: I’ve already printed three or four sections, but they were printed with only two walls, a brim, and supports. I generated the supports automatically in Creality Print, and because the sword sections are printed horizontally rather than vertically, the internal channel for the metal reinforcement requires support material.
The problem is that the supports are being generated inside the channel itself. From the sides, the channel is clear, but from the top, the support structures partially block it, making it impossible to slide the metal C-channel through afterward. Removing all of that support material from such a long, narrow channel seems extremely difficult.
Would it make more sense to print the sections vertically instead so the internal channel doesn’t need supports at all? I’m trying to figure out the best way to keep the channel completely clear while still getting reliable prints. I’m also concerned about print strength, since these sections are part of a 170 cm sword and I want the final assembly to be as rigid and durable as possible.

u/AdameQQQ_ — 1 day ago

Building a 170cm Zangetsu (PETG) - Need Advice on Reinforcement and Assembly

Hey, so I’m currently printing Ichigo’s massive Zangetsu sword (170 cm long), and there’s a channel running through most of its length that’s designed to hold a metal C-channel (a metal profile). It’s supposed to act as an internal reinforcement so the sword doesn’t bend or break under its own weight, since I’m printing it in PETG and it’s going to be pretty heavy at this size.
The problem is that the sword is split into a lot of separate printed parts (24, I think), and I need to join everything together properly. Do you think I should use super glue for the joints, or would something stronger be better?
Also, what’s the best way to secure the metal C-channel itself? It runs through most of the sections, but there are a few pieces that don’t have a slot for it. How would you connect those parts?
I want the whole thing to be genuinely rigid and durable, not something that falls apart the first time I hold it.
One more issue I’ve run into: I’ve already printed three or four sections, but they were printed with only two walls, a brim, and supports. I generated the supports automatically in Creality Print, and because the sword sections are printed horizontally rather than vertically, the internal channel for the metal reinforcement requires support material.
The problem is that the supports are being generated inside the channel itself. From the sides, the channel is clear, but from the top, the support structures partially block it, making it impossible to slide the metal C-channel through afterward. Removing all of that support material from such a long, narrow channel seems extremely difficult.
Would it make more sense to print the sections vertically instead so the internal channel doesn’t need supports at all? I’m trying to figure out the best way to keep the channel completely clear while still getting reliable prints. I’m also concerned about print strength, since these sections are part of a 170 cm sword and I want the final assembly to be as rigid and durable as possible.

u/AdameQQQ_ — 1 day ago

Acer N50-610 suddenly won’t power on

Hi everyone,
I have an Acer N50-610 desktop with a GTX 1660 Super and an i5-10400F.
I was away in Sweden for about a month, and during that time the PC was completely unused. When I came back, it wouldn’t turn on at all.
There are no fans, no LEDs, no sounds.. absolutely nothing happens when I press the power button.
I’ve already checked the power cable and confirmed that the PSU is receiving power, so I’m trying to test whether the problem could be the case’s power button/front-panel connection.
I found this connector on the motherboard labeled W_PWR1. In the attached photo, I’ve marked two pins with a blue circle.
Can I safely briefly short these two pins with a screwdriver to simulate pressing the power button?
Also, I noticed that there appears to be one missing/empty pin immediately to the right of the two pins I marked. Is that supposed to be there, or could it indicate a problem?
I don’t want to randomly short the wrong pins and damage the motherboard, so I’d really appreciate it if someone familiar with this Acer motherboard could confirm the correct pins/pinout before I try anything.
Thanks!

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u/AdameQQQ_ — 3 days ago