r/techsupport

Hi,

I've been trying to apply for a job and they need access to my camera and they need the assessment to be done through Chrome. For some reason my Chrome insists that besides my actual webcam, I have another device called "Twitch Virtual Cam". And I just cannot seem to get it to go away.

I uninstalled Twitch Studio completely (can't reinstall it now because it's been discontinued). I deleted everything I physically could that has the word "Twitch" in it using Everything Search App, I searched for "twitch virtual cam" on regedit and deleted the one result that came up and subsequent results led nowhere. I also checked device manager and even checked "show hidden devices" but there is absolutely nothing other than my actual webcam under "Imaging Devices". I have absolutely no clue why it's still showing up on Chrome (and also on Discord, for that matter)

Somehow, the "Twitch Virtual Cam" option disappeared from StreamLabs itself, but on Chrome (and less importantly but maybe it's relevant, discord as well) it is still listed as an option. I have absolutely no idea how to get rid of it and I need to to be able to apply for this job.

Any help would be really appreciated. Thanks in advance

Recently got full fibre installed. Speeds of 800 upload and 100 download on my phone.

Pc wifi antenna hits 200 max and 50 max (as are the rest of the upstairs devices), though we are on a 425 guarantee? My Ethernet however hits 36 upload and 30-80 download? Any idea how to fix?

I built a pc with parts straight from facebook my pc just ramdomly crashes and restarts then tries to repair but fails often i have to go into bios and i switch the boot order over and over again just so i can go back then it boots back into windows and im good for like 10-15 minutes then it crashes over again. I bought the motherboard off FB its a Z790m- Itx wifi board. The CPU is i5-13600k. The gpu is a Eagle Gigabyte 3070 8gb, my ram is ddr5 GSkill flare. those previous parts were all bought off FB marketplace except My PSU which is a thermaltake 850w.

i monitored the cpu and gpu usage and its at high rates but the temperature for both of them is around 40-50 for the cpu and 55 for the gpu. one of my usb ports doesnt work.

can someone please help me (is it a motherboard issue?) i dont wanna take it to a tech service cuz imma waste a bunch of money does anyone know if its motherboard or if its something else?

I have an HP All-in-One 22-df0xxx . More than half the RAM (8GB, 5.92GB available) is usable, there's 932 GB of storage, more than half of which is empty, and almost no games on it. By all accounts it should be running just fine, but God forbid the second I try to be on a discord call and a game at the same time, load speeds tank and my computer sounds like it's about to explode. Can anyone help me figure out how to fix this?

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My gaming laptop gives better FPS and smoother gameplay on battery, but as soon as I plug in the charger, I get frame drops and noticeable jitter/stuttering.

The battery cells had died earlier, but I’ve already had the battery replacement and all my power settings are already set to high performance

Any idea what could be causing this?

Hi, I’m trying to diagnose an intermittent hard-restart issue with my PC. I’m at the point where I think possibly either the PSU, CPU, or motherboard is the issue, but I’d much appreciate some other opinions before I start buying and testing new hardware.
My specs:
• Ryzen 9 7950X
• RTX 4090 24GB
• ASUS PRIME X670E-PRO WIFI
• ASUS ROG Strix 1000W Gold PSU
• 32GB (2x16GB) Corsair Vengeance RGB DDR5-6000
• Samsung 990 Pro SSD
• Corsair iCUE Link H150i LCD 360mm AIO
• Windows 11

The problem:
My PC will randomly hard-reset while gaming. It’s not normally a crash-to-desktop or BSOD. The display goes black and the whole PC restarts.
It originally happened occasionally in games like EAFC 26 and Battlefield 6, but has now also happened in heavily modded Skyrim and Spider-Man 2. BF6 is particularly reproducible and can crash the PC while loading into a game. Spider-Man 2 has sometimes crashed immediately on launch, although other times I can play for quite a while. The games never freeze or lag, the PC just straight crashes.
Windows generally only records Kernel-Power Event 41 + volmgr Event 161. There is no BSOD/dump, and Reliability Monitor generally only says Windows was not properly shut down.
Earlier in troubleshooting I discovered a large number of WHEA-Logger Event 19 errors. The ones I checked consistently reported:
Reported by component: Processor Core
Error Source: Corrected Machine Check
Error Type: Cache Hierarchy Error
Processor APIC ID: 0
One example had MCABank 13 and MciStat 0x9c2040000602010b.
However, I haven’t had another WHEA event for several days, despite the PC continuing to hard-reset while gaming. The recent crashes only produce Kernel-Power 41/volmgr 161.

Troubleshooting I’ve done:
Updated motherboard BIOS to latest version
Updated AMD chipset drivers
Loaded BIOS Optimized Defaults
Disabled DOCP and tested RAM at stock settings
MemTest86 overnight with DOCP actually enabled — passed
OCCT CPU test ~45 min — 0 errors, max CPU temp ~85°C
OCCT targeted Core 0 test — passed, no WHEA generated during test
OCCT GPU test — passed
OCCT combined Power test — passed
Tested with a completely different 2x16GB DDR5-6000 kit in A2/B2 at stock settings — PC still crashes
Cleaned NVIDIA drivers with DDU in Safe Mode and installed fresh Game Ready driver — still crashes
Reset NVIDIA settings to defaults
Reduced RTX 4090 power limit to 60% using MSI Afterburner — still crashes
Tried disabling Global C-State Control — didn’t fix it
Checked/reseated motherboard 24-pin, CPU EPS, GPU power and PSU-side modular connections
Temperatures appear normal

Another potentially important symptom:
It hasn’t happened for a while but on several occasions after shutting the PC down normally and returning later, pressing the case power button has done absolutely nothing. The motherboard RGB remains illuminated, so it has standby power, but the PC won’t start.
Switching the PSU off, waiting, switching it back on and then pressing the power button allows the PC to boot normally.
This makes me suspicious of the PSU or motherboard, although the repeated APIC ID 0 Cache Hierarchy WHEAs obviously make the CPU suspicious as well.
The system can also pass CPU/GPU/combined loads and then hard-reset almost immediately when launching a game, which is what’s confusing me.

My current thoughts:
I’m considering RMAing the ASUS ROG Strix 1000W PSU first because it’s still under its long warranty, but I don’t want to blindly replace components.
Given all of the above, would you suspect:
• PSU
• Ryzen 9 7950X
• Motherboard/VRM/power delivery
• RTX 4090
or something else?

Any help would be greatly appreciated 🙏🏻

I bought this Samsung Galaxy book 6 pro a few days ago. I don’t have a Microsoft account so I had to make one. I get to this screen to verify I’m human. I have to press and hold the button. No matter how long or short I hold the button it doesn’t process. I can’t switch a tab, or anything. This is literally one of the first screens to use the computer. Please help.

I opened a google drive link and then clicked open in google drive. It accidentally opened in my work google drive. I immediately clicked to remove it but is it permanently deleted ? Will nobody else see it ?

- some more info

I opened it a Google document in this Google drive.
I am logged into the main Google drive account because it has its own email so it’s shared but we all log in with the Google drives email.

I clicked remove immediately so will it be completely gone for everyone

First time i boot the pc after it stays shuf off for 20-30 minutes the gpu is used only 50% and if i restart, on the same game is used 80-90%, i reinstaled the drivers, windows, used ddu and nothing fixes it, it remains the bios which i think is the problem. The laptop was in service and the said that is not a hardware issue.I saw that the voltage on the gpu the first time booting its lower then after i restart.

I've just installed WD Blue SN5000 1TB as my 2nd drive in my laptop and I notice the drive temp 2 ("current temp of the NAND flash media", similar to the temp drive 1) is higher than the rest, always above 60°C idle and around 80°C while transferring files. It's even higher than the current CPU and GPU temp.

Should I do anything about this? or should I ignore it as the crystaldiskinfo shows the drive is only at 50°C?

For reference, the original drive (SK hynik) is always cool around 40°C - 50°C. The SN5000's temp 1 and temp 3 is a bit higher than the ogdrive but only around 60°C under load.

Had a pretty bad OneDrive issue yesterday. I have a project folder on my Windows 11 PC that was syncing through OneDrive. I first noticed one folder was missing, then realized quite a few files and subfolders had disappeared from the local copy.

The main project directory is still there, which is what confused me at first. It's just partially empty now.

I paused OneDrive as soon as I noticed and started checking the obvious places. Nothing in the OneDrive recycle bin or Windows Recycle Bin, and version history didn't get me anywhere either. I also checked another PC that had synced the project before and an older external backup, but neither had the missing stuff.

I haven't copied anything new onto that drive since then.

I opened an R development environment and a data recovery program just to see whether the missing files were still detectable and whether I could preview anything before actually recovering it. It started finding files, but I stopped there because I wasn't sure if repeatedly scanning the original drive was a smart idea at this point.

Should I stop touching the drive and make an image first, or is a direct scan reasonable if the drive itself seems healthy and the files were most likely deleted because of the sync issue?
I'm also wondering if there's some less obvious OneDrive recovery option I haven't checked yet before I treat this as a local recovery problem.

I have a Turtle Beach Stealth 700X Gen 3 headset and the mic works on my phone, but won't work on my computer. I run Windows 11 and I have everything I can find set to my mic but it just won't work. Neither Discord nor OBS will pick it up.

Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra refuses to charge even when plugged in

My phone of 2 years died while I was video calling today. It had about 2-3% battery left and was slowly charging, but still got drained because I wasn't using my fast charger. I left the phone to continue charging in this slow one for 2 hours, but when I tried turning it on, it only displayed a black lightning symbol in a white circle and showed 0% when I unplugged it.

I tried following these steps to plug the USB charging cable into my PC, but still the phone refuses to turn on.

Are there any new steps I can take to solve this issue?- I have not had any issues like this before, and the charging port was not humid or anything of that sort.

Great regards, Kataoaka.

Hey everyone,

I’m hitting a wall with a persistent CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT Blue Screen of Death that happens only when playing Forza Horizon 5 on my desktop. The game either crashes right at the end of the loading screen when entering the map or midway through loading the built-in benchmark mode.

System Specs:

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600G (Running stock, no XMP/OC possible in BIOS)
• Motherboard: Proprietary HP motherboard from a ProTower 285 G8 MT pre-built desktop
• BIOS: Fully updated to the latest version
• RAM: Checked via Windows Memory Diagnostic (Passed, 0 errors)
• Temperatures: Stable under 80°C in-game (Hits 95°C under synthetic stress, but completely fine during normal gaming).

Why this is confusing:
Other heavy multiplayer games like PUBG PC run perfectly smoothly with zero crashes.

Windows Event Viewer Logs Collected:

1. Critical Error: Kernel-Power (Event ID 41) – registers the hard freeze/manual reboot.
2. Error right before crash: Service Control Manager (Event ID 7000) - "The Sentry service failed to start due to the following error: The system cannot find the file specified."
3. Previous Error: DistributedCOM (Event ID 10010) tied to Windows.Gaming.GameBar.PresenceServer.Internal.PresenceWriter.

Everything I have already tried (None have completely fixed it):

• In-Game Settings: Turned Ray Tracing completely OFF, lowered environment geometry, capped frame rates, and switched the game from Fullscreen to Borderless Windowed mode (Borderless allowed the benchmark tool to load further, but it still crashes at the very end).
• Process Optimization: Set Forza 5 process priority to "High" in Task Manager (this made it load slightly longer before crashing). Force-disabled CPU hyper-threading by unchecking odd-numbered threads (CPU core affinity) to keep it on physical cores.
• Driver Clean Up: Did a completely clean GPU driver install using DDU in Safe Mode. Turned off Windows Fast Startup.
• Windows Features: Cleaned out the Windows Prefetch and Temp caches. Ran sc delete Sentry in admin CMD to completely delete the missing service causing the log errors. Attempted to strip Xbox packages via PowerShell and registry, but Windows locks down the component.
• Power Settings: Changed Windows maximum processor state from 100% down to 99%, and eventually to 95% to stop AMD Precision Boost voltage spikes.

It feels like Forza's heavy DX12 multi-threaded asset streaming is causing a massive power or timing desync that this locked HP motherboard VRM cannot handle when transitioning into the 3D world.

Before I go out and buy a new motherboard, standard case, and power supply to rescue my 5600G from this HP office frame, is there any obscure software, driver, or audio conflict I missed that specifically causes Forza 5 to throw Watchdog Timeouts on Ryzen APUs

Hello, I have a 5TB WD passport that won’t mount to my Mac.

Last night, I was putting footage onto the drive from multiple different SD cards. These all too about 20 minutes to put onto the drive. One of the cards said it was going to take an hour, and then eventually two hours. I stepped away from the computer for a minute to use the bathroom, but when I came back, it said the task couldn’t be completed because the hard drive was ejected. This means that somehow the hard drive ejected itself.

Now I can’t get it to mount back to my computer. When I have it plugged in, it appears in Disk Utility but it’s greyed out, and when I click on “mount”, it will say “Could not mount [name of hard drive]. (com.apple.DiskManagement.disenter error 0.).

Does anyone know how to fix this? Thanks.

My WD 5TB external HDD (WD50NDZW-11A8JS) is showing Caution in CrystalDiskInfo. I saw that this could indicate that the drive is failing but in rare cases there could be other trivial factors involved.

Here are some stats:

• C5 = 2
• 05 = 0
• C6 = 0
• C7 = 0
• C4 = 0
• Power-on hours = 216

The drive was bought in October 2021 but has only 216 power-on hours because I normally keep my external drives disconnected. I noticed this after transferring about 445 GB of data to it today. The transfer was a little slower than usual, but completed normally. I can open videos from the drive without any problems.

I've kept it running for several hours since then and C5 is still 2. Nothing else has changed. Unfortunately, this is currently the only copy of the data, so I don't want to run a full surface test until I can arrange a backup.

Could this just be a transient/isolated issue, or should I consider the drive unreliable already? Would you keep using it normally and monitor C5/05/C6, or replace it?

I'm asking because 5TB external drives are around ₹20,000 in India now, whereas I paid around ₹10,000 for this one at time of purchase, so I'd really rather not replace it unnecessarily.

PS: Sorry if this is a noob question. I don't have much money right now, so I'd prefer to buy a new one only if it's really necessary. Any advice would be appreciated.

I keep getting an error that says my usb is having a current overload. I have a usb port that is fucked but with pliers, I pulled the pins straight forward and haven’t had the problem in 1-2 years. I’m getting it again and unplugged everything and still getting it. I can only assume it’s that plug. I’ve messed with it and tried to do the same thing but no dice.

I opened my pc up to see if maybe I can unplug the usb but I’m not sure where the plug leads to or if it that can be done. I have a mpg z390m motherboard. I tried looking at maps but can’t figure out if or what plug would disconnect that usb from the power to avoid this happening.

Is anyone able to help me with this and tell me which plug or if it’s possible to do this?

I just booted up my first pc build, I have windows 11 installed and I installed all the necessary drivers for my motherboard (B650 AORUS ELITE AX) using a usb, but there’s still not even an option for wireless internet. I’ve been struggling with this for a week and I don’t know what to do.

I don’t know how to upload photos or I would, but please help I need this computer to work asap ❤️‍🩹

Apologies if this is not the correct sub for this question I will gladly go whereever you all point me if it is not.

To start I am pretty tech savy but when it comes to domains, hosting, email and the like it is a bit over my head. I am run an Unraid/plex server savy?

My family runs a small business and has been using godaddy for domain and email since way before I was involved. They have a website and 5 computers with like 7 email accounts. All computers running windows 11. Today we figure out the email was hacked and after going back an forth with the person on the phone they can not pinpoint what happened and even if it is our fault but it is going to cost us $250 per computer for them to fix it. I recognize this is not a huge number but in a small business every dollar counts.

It feels insane to me that we are paying when we have no idea if we caused the security breach or if it came on their end. They also are saying they can apparently see 3 computers are effected but they need to do all 5. 2 of which are at a totally different location.

Feel free to tell me I am wrong and talk me off the ledge but I am at the point of looking to move all our business to some other provider as this has left a bad taste in my mouth.

So I have a gaming laptop (MSI Bravo 15), which I had purchased just about 4 years ago. A year ago I noticed that a black line had appeared at the bottom of my screen. Slowly and steadily one line became two, two became 4, 4 became 8, and now it has transformed into a thick black band. Today, my screen also started glitching weirdly for some reason. I'll leave the footage link here.

https://ik.imagekit.io/wfuzlnexa/20260820_212734.mp4

Can someone please tell me what do I do? Should I go for a screen repair or should I just get a new one?