r/3dprint

Hey, so I’m currently printing Ichigo’s massive Zangetsu sword (170 cm long), and there’s a channel running through most of its length that’s designed to hold a metal C-channel (a metal profile). It’s supposed to act as an internal reinforcement so the sword doesn’t bend or break under its own weight, since I’m printing it in PETG and it’s going to be pretty heavy at this size.
The problem is that the sword is split into a lot of separate printed parts (24, I think), and I need to join everything together properly. Do you think I should use super glue for the joints, or would something stronger be better?
Also, what’s the best way to secure the metal C-channel itself? It runs through most of the sections, but there are a few pieces that don’t have a slot for it. How would you connect those parts?
I want the whole thing to be genuinely rigid and durable, not something that falls apart the first time I hold it.
One more issue I’ve run into: I’ve already printed three or four sections, but they were printed with only two walls, a brim, and supports. I generated the supports automatically in Creality Print, and because the sword sections are printed horizontally rather than vertically, the internal channel for the metal reinforcement requires support material.
The problem is that the supports are being generated inside the channel itself. From the sides, the channel is clear, but from the top, the support structures partially block it, making it impossible to slide the metal C-channel through afterward. Removing all of that support material from such a long, narrow channel seems extremely difficult.
Would it make more sense to print the sections vertically instead so the internal channel doesn’t need supports at all? I’m trying to figure out the best way to keep the channel completely clear while still getting reliable prints. I’m also concerned about print strength, since these sections are part of a 170 cm sword and I want the final assembly to be as rigid and durable as possible.

Printed this tea light LED candle lamp.
Great design and looks really cool at night. I made a custom stand for it so now we can use it as a night light.

I had a bezel designed up for my car, we did a prototype filament print and it went well. The designer unfortunately cannot facilitate a resin print, he recommended I reach out to see what’s available.

I’m happy to purchase UltraPrint-Tooling Resin PAU20, and whatever we don’t use on the project would be yours to keep.

The bezel is about 9 inches by 7 inches I believe. Attached are a few renders of the project. I have step and stl files.

Thanks!

https://imgur.com/a/Hl1PXuE

I want to print a Niko socket cover I found on printables (https://www.printables.com/model/675375-niko-coverplate-single-triple/files) but I can't figure out what's the best way to print this.

I tried putting the model with the front on the build plate (as you can see in the first picture) but then it needs a lot of support because of the pieces in between the holes sticking out.

Then I tried two different ways of putting the model on its side. The second one is how it comes when you download it. I just don't know if putting supports under everything that sticks out to connect it will work.

Thanks for helping out already! I really hope I can find the best solution, not only for now but also to learn from for the future :)

Printed by my friend seikinchan on instagram.

If you want the file, you can get it here: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/a-plague-tale-hugo-and-amicia-stl-3d-print-model

Check it out on maker’s world :)

[Gear Generator](https://makerworld.com/models/3143184?appSharePlatform=copy)

Process to create these.

1. Find STL file to 3-d print - of course sci-nerds have these available.
2. Modify file and print in PLA
3. Polish round surface for no texture
4. Drill holes for screws.
5. Add wood glue to hand print area and sprinkle with sand for texture.
6. 3-d print a dam to pour silicone around shape
7. Pour silicone.
8. Pour synrock into mold.

This climbed very nice so I also made 75% and 5O% sizes

Flairing this properly, it is a paid add-on I made.

It started because of the two chores I hated most before a big resin print: cutting a model down to something that fits the vat, and hollowing it without ending up with a wall that is not the thickness I asked for.

What it does that is resin-specific:

• Hollow takes a wall thickness in real millimetres and gives you that wall, even when the object still carries a scale factor. I measured 19.98 mm on a 20 mm request at four different object scales
• Drain holes either automatically through the lowest wall of every part, or you click exactly where each one goes, under an arm or behind a head, where the cleanup will not show
• Cutting into vat-sized blocks, or a freehand seam you draw yourself so it hides in a fold instead of running across a face
• Every cut face gets a keyed pin and a matching socket, one corner cut off so a part cannot be glued in rotated, plus an engraved 1A / 1B pair, so a 20-part model still assembles without a guessing game
• Mesh check before you export, then STL, OBJ or 3MF in millimetres

Straight answer on the weak spot: a very thin shell cut into large blocks can produce open fragments at thin points. The built-in check tells you which parts, and a thicker wall or a smaller block fixes it. I would rather say that here than have someone find it out at 2 a.m.

Blender 4.2 and newer.

3-minute demo: https://youtu.be/nQitmn3UYoY

Have a look if it is useful to you: https://superhivemarket.com/products/3d-slicer-suite-

Questions welcome, I wrote it.

https://cults3d.com/:4778082

wanted to see how far I could get without sculpting the character from scratch. I made the original reference image in ChatGPT, ran it through a 3D AI generator, then cleaned the mesh up in Blender. mostly fixed the non-manifold areas, thickened the fingers and thinner cloth parts, and adjusted the pose so it would actually print.

printed it on a Bambu Lab A1 mini with a 0.2 mm nozzle, 0.08 mm layers and marble PLA. removing the supports around the hands and clothing was a pain, and the surface still needs some cleanup, but I’m honestly surprised by how much detail survived at this size.

probably going to sand, prime and paint it next. pretty fun workflow for turning a random concept into something physical.

Please let me know if you have any ideas for improvement :)

https://makerworld.com/models/3166719?appSharePlatform=copy

This is version 2 of my 3d printable functional watch winder. I made version 1 a while ago after needing one, and not wanting to spent a ton of money on a fancy wooden one (I just needed a display case for my watch that would keep it wound). After having version 1 for a while, I realized some aspects needed to be improved, mainly the top lid with the glass pain as this was really tricky to glue on properly. But also, the speed controller would slide around sometimes making it inconvenient to turn on and off. So, over the past month i’ve redesigned and improved the watch winder making it basically flawless! It no longer has any issues with assembly, usability or functionality and I managed to keep that clean, stylish look of version 1. Overall, I am super happy with how Version 2 turned out, and it looks like I won’t be needing a version three:)

Hey, pretty new to printing, only been at it for a few weeks. I'm trying to print a crankshaft, and I just know that there's got to be a good way and a bad way to get this to print. How do I find the best orientation and settings for my Qidi Q2?

I could use trial and error, but with such a big print and needing somewhat close tolerances to function, I'm looking for advice from any of you who have more experience.

Any advice on figuring out settings for printing would be greatly greatly appreciated

https://z-himschoot.printify.me/

generated the concept and base 3D model with AI, then cleaned up the mesh in Blender and split it into separate parts for printing.

printed it on a Bambu Lab P1S with a 0.2 mm nozzle using mostly black, white, red and purple PLA Matte. after that I did some light sanding, assembled everything and added the smallest details with acrylic paint.

really happy with how the face, cards and tiny details came out.

https://cults3d.com/es/modelo-3d/arte/dupin-de-palworld-fan-art-3d-imprimible

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