Anyone have any luck with a local or semi-local shop repairing larger stereos or AVRs?
I have a Denon AVR-X6500H AVR with a protect issue.
I checked the service menu, and the protection history shows a ":DC" error.
I texted support because you can't call anybody. They say I have to drive in to a service center and there are none close by. They will not ship them to me.
It looks like there's two versions which one was supposed to come with the Founders version of the truck?
I assume it's the: Cybertruck 20" Mantle Wheel Cover
The system was installed a year ago in May 2025 but it's had numerous issues with leaks in the cooling lines. After a year and nine separate visits I think this has been corrected.
There's a very strange issue that started a couple of months ago where I notice that no water was coming out the condensate line outside. This definitely had worked in the past.
I notified them three visits ago. Both of those previous visits they were looking at the system being able to cool properly. They were focused on that because each time the pressure in the lines was low so there was a leak somewhere. The first time they told me that since the pressure in the line set was wrong the evaporator coil had iced over and that's why there was no water coming out. This didn't make any sense to me and I told them that it wasn't just that there was little to no water but that there had been absolutely no water for months. I also told them that I'd actively seen water leaking out of the bottom of the cabinet into the emergency overflow pan and there's standing water in that pan. I even put a container under the condensate outlet on the side of the house and there was never any water in it.
After that they came again and they told me again they didn't see any issue with the condensate line and I wasn't seeing anything yet because there's a little lip on the internal pan before the condensate port. Again, this doesn't make any sense to me. On their most recent visit, I went up into the attic with them to see the internal condensate pan. They've manufactured it in such a way that the primary condensate port off the side of the pan is flush with the bottom of the pan. They wanted to tilt the cabinet to help it drain but again there had been zero water coming out.
I had them pour a bunch of water into the internal condensate pan and we saw it go out the primary condensate line through the P-trap which still had water in it for some reason, and out the condensate line.
After the original install where they had the primary and secondary condensate line swapped, They swapped him to the correct connections but didn't tell me. I'm wondering if they did fix something again and didn't tell me but for the life of me I can't think of what it was.
For the last couple of months the water had been making its way around the internal pan and out the sides of the cabinet. Luckily the overflow drain pan underneath the cabinet was big enough to catch it because the water was running along the bottom before it dripped down off of the cabinet. I'm just wondering how there was no water coming out because it was working before and we checked the condensate lines and they were clear and it's a relatively new install.
Is it possible they didn't put the sides of the cabinet back on correctly after a previous service attempt, causing some kind of pressure differential so that no water came out the drain lines. The fan is always on but it's on pretty low It just seems like some water should have made its way out if the water was ever making it into the drain pan inside the cabinet.
Since their last visit it has been actively draining out the condensate line. I'm just left wondering what the original cause was and if it'll happen again. Also, over a month ago now when I first told them about the condensate line not draining it's since acquired a musty odor whenever it's not actively cooling, the temperature on the line set and the evaporator coil drop, then there's a stinky musty smell. I'm assuming that's because for months the water wasn't making it into the internal condensate pan and was making its way around the pan internally inside the cabinet. I didn't see any mold inside but I'm not sure what's on the evaporator coil if anything.
I'm on a corner lot in Napa CA and there is a 8" sewer line that goes diagonally through the entire block. There is also a larger storm drain line that runs parallel to it.
In some places in the neighborhood they rerouted it and those properties now connect straight out to the main in street but this one's still active. I'm not sure what it would cost if we could even reroute it but the city said we would have to pay for everything and that it would be prohibitively expensive.
We have a garage on the property 20' feet by 20' feet. I built it in 2002 and it is where it is because of the situation with the utility easements. I had to get an easement with my neighbor and build the garage with the back on the property line between my house and the neighbor's house.
I want to keep usage of the garage. I wanted to extend it and do a ground level ADU but the storm drain is closest to the garage and cuts across the left corner (facing the garage door) of the foundation at almost a 45° angle.
Even if we could extend it or do a second story on the garage I believe it would no longer be a conversion and would be more difficult. I've seen some people say that even if they let us do the second story we would have cut out 4' feet from the back of it to meet the 4' foot set back requirements which would leave next to no space on the second floor and make the building look rather odd.
Just wondering if anyone has any experience trying to reroute a storm drain line. I can't imagine what that would cost even if they let us do it and it wouldn't get us a ton of extra room because the sewer line is about another 15' feet over running parallel. Supposedly they would want a 5' foot easement on either side of the sewer line.
They're saying because it's a Chandler panel it must be replaced and that's gonna be $5000 even though there's nothing wrong with it and they still wouldn't even if we replaced all the breakers.
The only official Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) recall for Challenger was in 1988. It applied to only about 9,000 specific 15-amp and 20-amp GFCI breakers manufactured over a two-month period. Challenger voluntarily recalled and replaced them, neutralizing the regulatory trigger for major lawsuits.
Eaton didn't ignore the issue. Because the original Challenger busbar design was excellent, Eaton simply manufactured proper, modern breakers for it. Eaton's Type BR breakers are completely safe, currently in production, and explicitly UL cross-listed to be installed safely in Challenger enclosures.
code-compliant fix to make a Challenger panel 100% safe is not a massive panel swap. It is simply throwing the old Challenger breakers in the trash and snapping in modern Eaton Type BR breakers a job that costs a few hundred dollars in parts.
I think it's kind of crazy, but the insurance companies are giving my mom who's in her '70s a difficult time renewing her insurance. The latest ask is that we provide the full make and model of the electrical service panel. It was installed around 1990 and the paper inside showing the make and model and diagram is missing.
The main breaker is 125 amp Challenger Type C 2125 so I think that likely means it's a Challenger panel. I have no clue how to tell them the model number if it even is a Challenger panel. As best I can tell they went out of business and we're bought by Siemens or somebody else.
There is a UL label at the back:
CLASS-CTL
EU 192020
There will be a meeting on May 21st. It begins at 4:30pm in the Napa Valley College Admin Bldg. If you want time to speak about concerns with the proposed NVTA mission, then you need to be there a little ahead of 4:30 to sign a card and hand it in before they go into closed mtg at 4:30. After that, no one can speak except those who were there early and signed a card. They don't ever publish how long the closed session will be, so we just wait until they open up for the public to join the mtg.
On Thursday, April 16th, the Napa Valley Tennis Association (NVTA) presented a Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) to the college's Board of Trustees to take over the college's courts. The District Facilities Committee is discussing this item today.
Historically, these courts have been a vital public asset, having lights and open every day, until 10:00 PM. The NVTA is claiming to the college board that this project will be in part funded by USTA Grants.
According to the official NVTA Presentation and Draft MOU submitted to the college, the NVTA’s terms include:
A few years ago, the NVTA executed a similar takeover of the courts at Vintage High School, severely restricting public access to just a few hours on Sunday afternoons. We are hoping the same thing won't happen to our community college courts.
The courts are still very usable and do need to be (properly) resurfaced at some point, but I don't think it's worth it to lose public access. There's been a lot of time, money and energy put into the courts from the college and locals.
I think it's kind of crazy, but the insurance companies are giving my mom who's in her '70s a difficult time renewing her insurance. The latest ask is that we provide the full make and model of the electrical service panel. It was installed around 1990 and the paper inside showing the make and model and diagram is missing.
The main breaker is 125 amp Challenger Type C 2125 so I think that likely means it's a Challenger panel. I have no clue how to tell them the model number if it even is a Challenger panel. As best I can tell they went out of business and we're bought by Siemens or somebody else.
There is a UL label at the back:
CLASS-CTL
EU 192020
I gotten a brand new unopened Tesla Universal EV Connector using Tesla store credit. I wanted to sell it but I wasn't sure if the warranty would be transferable to the person I sell it to.
