Hiya I’ve not had heat creep issues before until now.

I’ve got a TZ E3.0 2.0 hotend (printing PETG), which has done a fair few long prints (5-8hrs) without any issues and as u can see it is in an enclosure. The heat creep at its worse can range from +\- 15C. To a point that it cancelled the print as the temp got over 270. Once the heat creep starts, it doesn’t settle down, but gradually increases in temperature. Because I’m unfamiliar with this issue I don’t really know where to start. Is this a wiring fault? A cooling issue? I’m not sure

Not sure if this adds to any diagnosis, but once the print sent an error of over heating. I turned it off and on again and resumed the print. This stopped the heat creep for about 20 mins before starting again.

Thanks for any help or guidance!

Hello I have attempted printing a PTFE extruder mount to convert my ender 3 V2 to have a direct drive. However this is by far the longest and most technical print I have done so far, which has revealed a fair few problems.

Here is my print settings

Printer

Ender 3 V2
0.24mm Z offset + bed mapping
0.4 hardened steel nozzle
0.2 layer height

Mods include:
Marlin v2, TZ E3 2.0 hotend, Capricorn tube, CR touch and magnetic bed

Slicer: Orca

Filament:

Overture PETG (black) - 17% relative humidity before printing

Nozzle Temp: 255 (throughout print)
Bed Temp: 72

Print speeds: included in photo
Max volumetric speed: 18mm3/s

Retraction: 5mm
Retraction speed: 60mm/s
Deretraction speed 40mm/s

More available on request.

The first fault I noticed is that on the right side of my X-axis these holes have some weird extruding warps to them and I don’t really know how this has occurred. I did recently recalibrate my E-steps before this print and set it to less than it was previously, so I’m doubtful that it’s over extrusion?

My next issue being that I dried my PETG (overture-black) to 17% on my Sunlu S2. But after an hour of printing, (after the blue dashed line) I started getting considerably more bubbling and the odd crackle. I do print in my bedroom as I’ve got no other room and in the summer it gets quite humid, so I’m presuming that humidity got into the filament whilst it was printing? My simple question is how do I prevent this? Or am I assuming wrong? I’ve seen some people mount their dryer directly ontop of the printer like so, and drying it whilst it’s printing. But I am concerned that this would soften the filament before it’s fed into the extruder and its teeth will chew at the softened filament?

https://youtu.be/9BI02Tk6vcg?is=ssXMhLIenTwgm7zK

https://www.printables.com/model/1315791-sunlu-s2-filament-drier-mount

Mentioning that hour print line also brings my next question. How do I know that I’m printing at the right speed for my flow rate? Recently, I calibrated my flow rate and it got from 10 to 18mm3/s, but all my speeds are still set to the Ender 3 V2 defaults on Orca slicer. I am assuming I can print faster as I have got a higher flow rate? What test would I do to work this out?

Furthermore my supports were welded to the print lol. I’ve seen some people recommend changing the top Z distance to 0.26-0.30 which I’ll try on my next run as it’s currently 0.2.

Apologies for the rather long help request, but thank you to anyone who’s more knowledgeable than me lol.

I’ve seen a few of these large noctua fan mods for the PCU and mainboard. That are 80x80mm or 60x60mm compared to the stock 40x40mm. The Ender I got came from a dusty print farm that ran the poor fella for 2 years straight. That being said my fans are very worn out.

I was wondering if these larger fans are necessary or overkill? As I’ve got a two Sunon 40x40x20 24V (for the mainboard) and a 40x40x10 12V (for the PSU)?

Thanks for any help

Hello I’ve not used Gridfinity before, how would I create a grid within this tray with its awkward dimensions? Whilst being efficient and utilising them corners. Or is this more a bespoke job without Gridfinity?

Thanks for any help