u/ChaosCalmed

My first "filofax" was a cheap one bought to "organise me" by my mum in my late teenage years. Usually birthday and Xmas presents are used to try and "improve me" by my mum. They usually get enthusiastic thank you's followed by an Xmas day of using it. Then into the junk drawer.

Much, much later as an adult I got a personal Metropol and a bullet journal from L1917 to organise myself.

Since then I've gone on to get 2 A5s, one mini and another personal sized. My zipped pocket was almost as big as my personal Metropol binder so I've never looked at pocket sized binders.

To my POV they're not that small and not big enough to be useful. A mini I can get into my rear, have 6 pocket or one front pocket with all the stuff I normally carry with me everywhere. A pocket would fill a coat pocket and weight it down too.

So for me I think A5 is static, desk use or carried in a work bag for intensive periods at work.

Personal is the sweet spot between useable (yes I can actually just about write on all pages of held in my other hand).

Mini is the compact binder when I'm trying to reduce bulk or weight in my work bag and only need planning light diary with a small amount of info. Kind of an in box with a basic schedule.

I use any one of those sizes as my needs apply, but I've never thought pocket fits into any of my use cases. It feels like it's no better than mini for writing in or content capacity. It's not as useable irl for me as personal.

So I was wondering how pocket works for you. Not looking for the content of it but the method of use.

By this I mean the technicalities of its use. How do you manage the rings and writing on the wrong side of them? How much useful information can you get on each page? Especially on you dated pages / diary. How do you carry it?

It's not really pocketable unless you have a coat with it's bigger pockets. A bag offers the same advantage to carry as for mini, personal and potentially even A5 sizes.

How do you manage to write on the wrong side of the rings? Can you really get enough content into its smaller rings? Are the rings not far off personal sized rings? Is the binder thickness noticeably less than say personal sized?

Basically I am hoping to find out how the pocket sized Filofax can be effectively used with all the planning capacity the might be needed for work and personal use? Explain and convince me that it's a useful size?

Background, I'm male, in my 50s, an office worker, I mostly use a Filofax to organise my working life as my private life isn't so busy (is manageable mostly without a planner). I'm a very sober in terms of use, tastes, etc. I'm very rules based and find routines/systems important. I do not time block only write meetings and deadlines in my diary section. Occasionally I'll use a daily plan page for busy periods / days to use a loose time blocking system. I'm opposed to most textures like croc, with only the rambled surface of Finsbury A5 the only texture I've lived with. 8 carry cards and notes in as compact a wallet a possible and downsized my phone to a pixel 9 so it's more pocketable.

This is a navigation and maps/gear question so I put it in general discussion flair.

I'm mostly a paper (or plastic or plastic over paper) mapping sort of person for hiking. However I've been using digital mapping on my phone alongside the paper map, in and off for a few years now. From Viewranger to Komoot until they went subscription only for the features that make them worth using. Both I think after a take over / sell out.

I trust traditional maps but see value in the modern, digital mapping. I've finally paid my £35.99 annual subscription on OS mapping app. I really only like OS mapping or perhaps Harvey's but they're not big in the digital offerings. Plus the OS app is cheaper with a decent offering for my digital needs.

So now it's device choice time. Are Android devices made with a GPS chip that is as good as dedicated GPS units from say Garmin? I know the GPSMAP 67 or other latest unit has a better aerial than in phones, but overall are Android phones, phablets or tablets with their GPS chips and aerial that much behind dedicated units?

I'm looking at a SIM free unit with a bigger screen than my pixel 9 but still portable. I am happy with my pixel 9 use inside the overboard phone case in bad weather. It's waterproof enough but outside of the case rain and water affects the touchscreen negatively too much. The only trouble is I like to see more of the map than my P9 can show me in 1 to 25k. Even 1 to 50k isn't much better on the phone.

So I'm thinking a 7 or 8 inch tablet or perhaps a larger screened phone like those Phablets. It'll not be used with a SIM only WiFi at home or hotspot, or perhaps tethered to my phone. I don't need it to be used as a phone neither. This is purely a digital mapping device using offline saved mapping in the OS app.

So any recommendations? Phones / phablets? Or a smaller tablet?

Thinking of a Samsung A series in the 7 something or 8.7 inch screen size (can't remember which it is). Or there are ruggedised tablets too but they tend to be older OS with less support and fewer updates. They often have double the battery capacity though.

It's not an either or situation here with traditional mapping and digital mapping. I'll be using both on a hike and for planning. I just want to have both systems of mapping with an effective and chat effective digital option.

I have the printed maps I need and the digital OS mapping app. It's the hardware now I need to get sorted.

Although I might need to get new copies of some printed maps because they are rather old now. Some date from before they offered the digital download for any paper map bought. I noticed the payer map and app map for the same area was slightly different. The newer digital one has more information added to it than the older paper version.

I went to a watersports shop that specialised on kayaking with paddleboarding too. Not a minor player but I'll not give the name on case they gave me the wrong information.

I got told that old BAs are still ok if the foam is in a good state. If it's got any sign the foam inside has started to degrade or the body stitching is failing then it's finished. If there are no signs of any issues then ok, even if it's old.

I always thought you had to look at those same things plus you really needed to do a float test. Or just replace after a certain number of years.

Then what about helmets. How long are they good? I always thought they had something like 5 years of regular use in them. In many PPE situations there's a fixed life from manufacturing date. This canoe shop assistant said there's no age limit. If it's still good in structure then it's useable. That to me doesn't make sense.

Whilst I'm certain if I got back into whitewater I'd get a new helmet as the tech (and look) has got a lot better. It's like MIPs in cycling helmets, if it's a safety feature then it's worth getting the updated tech. I am curious what the current thinking is.

BTW I think mine was just an AP2000 I think. It'll be too old for me to be happy using it. So I'll get one of the more modern looking ones if I get back into kayaking vs paddleboarding on lakes.

So does anyone know what the current advice is regarding replacement of equipment for kayaking. Especially the key safety equipment.

PS who decides on kit safety and useable age / replacement criteria? Is it covered by a standard, test or organisation's advice/rules?

I was just wondering whether canoe clubs also do paddleboarding.

I think I read something that the body for canoeing and kayaking, possibly in England, was kind of trying to be the body for paddleboarding too. I did read that it had its own UK body but just wondered what the situation was.

I'm thinking of getting back into kayaking but also paddleboarding instead. If I could do both in the same local club then it might help me to decide which suits me better these days.

My background was whitewater kayaking from about 13 to about 33yo. I padded from grade 5 down and enjoyed it. I only stopped due to a broken hand from a rockfall while climbing. You can't do whitewater very well when one hand is often too weak to keep hold of the paddle if it hits a rock or something. Took a few years to recover and then I'd lost a lot of my skills so dropped out. Then a family came along and activities like cycling or hiking took over.

Now I've got a son who's off with mates doing stupid things on enduro bikes, football or other hanging out with mates activities. Whilst he's an adrenaline junkie on a bike I can't get him into watersports. I talked him around Teesside course recently and got a "that's cool!" comment that became not interested when I asked if he wanted to try it. Plus a partner who is getting into her own things too.

So does anyone know if there are clubs around that you can do both kayaking and SUPing? I'm South Cumbria so it is a perfect location for doing both.

I like Jetstream ink and whilst I've never had their better pen bodies I still want to keep using them. From simple one colour to the jetstream 3 1.0. These look like disposable pens but you can replace the inner refills.

What refill do these Jetstream 1.0 pens take? Are there any other colours than red, black and blue? Can you mix point sizes for example 1.0 and perhaps a finer option within the same pen? Does the brand do other types of ink in a compatible refill body? For example can you make one refill a Gel?

Then if I replace the pen body with a better Jetstream model, are the refills the same across the refill range?

I understand there's multi pens with click and twist mechanisms, do these take the same refills?

I'm thinking of getting a better leg body but for now get a few refills to keep my cheaper Jetstream pens going for now.

Two last questions. Whilst I really like Jetstream ink (and signo ink in the 207 I think), are there any other brand's ink refills that also fit the Jetstream pens? If so what is it worth looking at? The answer to the last Q might be none if you rate the jetstream high enough, that's a fair comment too.

I think my variety of ADHD means if I don't see value in a body of work then I don't do it until I'm "in trouble". That's the situation with two tasks / projects I've got now. One is kicked into the long grass to be completed by the end of the year. The other is causing me issues right now.

The work needs to be "boxed off" as my boss said. Meanwhile because I don't think it's good enough, the next stage of presenting the finding to the actionee isn't being put in the calendar and this is stopping me close things all out.

So in my mind I have a cut and run feeling. I'll next move roles why 3 clearing my jobs up but I've got this feeling I'll encounter this issue more with this role so perhaps better to move into something more suited to me with my ADHD.

I'm just curious what others might have done in my situation, if anyone has been in it that is. This is my first big co job after a working life of many years in small to medium sized enterprises. I know big co is relatively easy to move around in, others do it a lot, but it's alien to me. Before I had to change companies to change roles. So any advice on how to do this or even if it's the right thing?

BTW I'm early to mid fifties and have low confidence in my abilities / low self opinion. This is due to many reasons but ADHD is highly likely a big part of this. I see poor performance in myself at work but I've learnt that my view of myself is highly negative when I've had feedback from others. If I can't trust my image of my performance / abilities, then it feels next to impossible to see how I can move on.

I'm an intelligent, educated person with many advantages over others in terms of ability. This sounds strange compared to the above points, but by this I mean that I remember a lot of details, and have a logical and immediate grasp of even difficult concepts. Difficult seems easy to me but simple is impossible at times!!! I also know that I can do more than what I'm doing. Also, my mindset and thought processes actually suit my area of work very well. I'm very much rules based so I see weaknesses in business processes and procedures. Great for an auditor. It's just the current work is an obsolete form of auditing so it's kind of pointless. Everyone with this type are just doing what they need to get it closed out and move on. Not to my mindset because it's not good enough. Hence a circular spiral into I don't know what.

If you've managed to read this far. Do you have any opinions or advice for me?

Let's start with the fact this isn't my bike but my teenage son's bike. He has known for weeks we're going there and using his bike but he never told me anything was wrong. I only found out when trial fitting it on a new bike carrier.

So the advice I need is about what is my best option to get this rideable?

I can only think of four options. Get a new wheel somehow and put the cassette and tyre on it. Get the wheel repaired at a good local shop Saturday morning if at all possible. Drive to fort William and find a good shop there to hopefully fix it. Or leave the bike and hire a bike there.

Any other ideas or solutions?

Other than leaving our son behind with grandparents as punishment! Or worse if I don't chill before he gets home. 🤬 Joking!

Hiring a bike suitable for his riding when there is not cheap so I'd prefer to get a fix done so he finally gets to ride his bike where it's meant to be ridden.

Longer term solution is getting him on a bike repair course and somehow getting him to actually check and fix or check and tell me of issues as soon as possible.

I got friction pens cheaply in a supermarket to try out years ago, maybe a decade ago now, and wasn't impressed so stopped using them.

A few years ago I bought some uni-ball erasable gel pens in 0.7mm. I think it's UF-222-07. Being a big fan of Jetstream pens I was hoping this pen to be better. It's worse!

Are there any erasable pens that leave a nice and dark line on paper?

I read that the ink technology is the cause of weak colour to the lines. Something to do with microcapsules that don't soak fast into the paper so the heat effect can remove the colour. Also, paper that's less absorbent such as perhaps Clairfontaine might be better to use with such pens / ink. However, I wonder whether there's a better brand / model of pen or ink that forms a better erasable line in real use. Also available easily in the UK where I'm from.

I hope there's something, but I suspect erasable ink just isn't for me due to how the ink needs to work. I simply prefer a decently dark line when writing or sketching (non-artistic just technical sketches, used to indicate something in my work notes).

Finally thinking of paying for a subscription to a mapping app for hiking, cycling (on and off-road), planning said activities and even road routes for getting somewhere by car perhaps bus/train. Also for simply checking out where a place is.

The last bit is probably going to be Google maps TBH but I miss the old paper road atlas. BTW does that make me old? I'm only in my early 50s but trained my navigation skills with a map and compass.

Ideally I think I would like good mapping for outdoors use. I'm used to Harvey's and OS.

I've tried the free versions of OS mapping, Komoot, and possibly a few others I've not remembered. Oh yes, used to have outdooractive before it changed it's name to that.

It's hard to judge what the subscription version of the apps will be like. So any advice on best mapping app for use on different devices from laptop to phone. Then possibly somehow get it to my Garmin Fenix 6 watch for bread trail mapping on that.

I've tried most of the free versions but free versions aren't great IMHO and I'm hoping one paid version is so much better.

Any recommendations?

Anyone tried one of these carriers? I need a carbon frame suitable roof carrier and these seem decent models.

The Yakima costs £77 less than the Thule when you factor in any extras you need to buy such as locks or fittings for my square roof bars.

I've read that with use the Thule catch where the two front wheel seems lock sometimes doesn't lock making the bike fall over. Also the Yakima has reports of a rivet coming loose at the same sort of location, but this doesn't cause a failure of the hold at all so the bike won't fall over / off. Just rattle until you get it replaced under warranty. Also, the locking ratchet knob mechanism has plastic internals that can wear.

By all accounts the Yakima is supposed to be better for longer wheelbase enduro bikes. I just wondered if anyone uses one or both of these models and can give me a clue on how they found it or both of them.

I have a proride 598 which is for other bikes that are not carbon. It's only my son who's awkward in getting a carbon framed bike. We're off to Nevis range with his bike and his mate too shortly. Both are going on the roof bars. We've not got the towbar fitted for this car yet so can't use the atera Strada towbar mounted rack just yet but TBH think we'll put his on top anyway as his bike could end up sticking too far out the side.

This is kind of a rant at myself, but only a light hearted rant. I'm not angry with myself because you've got to accept who you are and what you are like.

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However, I've got so much work to get through to try and complete a body of work that's been rescheduled (known as extended in most other places) twice already. Should have been a 2025 thing but then q1 and finally q2 at the end of this week. I'm in write up and last interviews with people to finalise the information in the report. It's a good thing my ADHD makes me work better when in panic mode due to deadlines and severe procrastination.

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So a work colleague organising an away day asked if anyone fancy giving a certain leisure activity a try on the away day. I've done the activity with colleagues on a social before and enjoyed it. So after replying "hell yeah!" in a more professional way of course (honest), I then went googling for my nearest club for that activity. Found one about 15 minutes drive or 30 minutes cycle away. So I've emailed them about how to give it a try and pretentiously join. Also asked about equipment needed should I decide to take it up.

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Then back to work! Only to see a BIOS update popup on my work laptop. So I clicked update! All while knowing I have a rush on with this work.

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So thank you for letting me get this off my chest. Needed someone or somewhere to get it out. My partner won't be home until after 6pm so I've got nobody to vent to. I am of course not angry at myself or going to get stressed over it. This is a vent so I can move on and get back to work once my work laptop sorts itself out. I will probably forget about this after I'm back working again.

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Thank you for this place to vent. I'm certain I'm not the only one here who can relate to this.

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Whether the procrastination over work right up to nearly the deadline date.

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Or the distraction to fall to when someone simply mentions something that grabs your attention and leads you off onto a tangent of research into that topic.

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Or the new hobby you've jumped into without any idea whether it'll stick, indeed the likelihood you'll get no further than enquiring about it or perhaps further along and buying the equipment needed without ending up using it.

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Or you just relate to the need to vent occasionally without any need for a reply or indeed anyone actually listening or reading the vent.

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Have a great day everyone and I hope you get done whatever you need to have done today. I think that's the best of their best wishes any ADHDer can give another ADHDer.

My local good bike shop gave me a few options but the only viable one isn't great.

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They said they'd drill out the inserts to allow them to drop into the frame. They say there's no way to stop the residue dropping in. Then they'll insert and glue in new ones. Once dry and secure I'll be able to use the bolts to hold the rack securely to the frame.

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The issue is the insert remains drop into the frame and often rattle. They said before drilling out they could pack the area with grease so once drilled through the inserts the grease might stop the rattle. This doesn't sound great.

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Any suggestions or better ideas?

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I think I might decide to replace the bike if there isn't something better without introducing a rattle.

Which mechanism do you prefer?

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I've not had a twist pen for decades since the 80s when I was given a digital clock pen that was a twist action. Does anyone remember them? Still available by any chance?

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So I'm looking for a multi pen with a pencil too. Ideal is black, blue, red and green with the plus one of a mechanical pencil. Ideally 0.7mm lead as I'm a snapper of 0.5mm lead way too easily! I've seen a few twist and clickie options but no idea which is best.

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Are the twist mechanisms more or less reliable than clickie ones?

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As an aside I'm looking for a multi pen with jetstream refills or capable of taking them, but that's a suggestion. I do like that hybrid ink, not a fan of gel pens at all. Sure they're nice, dark and opaque. It's just that with my writing style I'm a big smudger, more than any lefties even though I write in the right direction to avoid the smudges.

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I'm looking at a hybrid planner system. One where I use a personal with a monthly planner for forwards lookahead with a working week in my mini binder to effectively time block with meetings and in between them project tasks, lunch breaks and any travel time needed.

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I can only think that I'll have to create one with a dot grid refill, a ruler and a pencil or pen. Or I use a day on a page and ditch all pages I don't need or want.

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TBH my goal is to reduce my WOTP rolling 3 month in personal and a WOTP mini that's not really great neither.

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I'm hoping to reduce the pages in my personal by using a month on two pages diary to leave more capacity to make notes in it for projects to keep important details in one place.

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So far I've only seen the Filofax mini day on a page with appointments in cream for the mini refill.

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Then for the personal there's month on two pages or vertical monthly on a pull out. I think the two pages per month is better.

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I have 2 or 3 meetings at most on work days with the occasional fortnight with more per day. In personal size, the month on two pages is big enough I think.

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Not sure I like the dated day on one page mini diary refill though. I think a simpler version of the day planner for personal or A5 is kind of closer if only it could be found in mini size with some simplification.

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I hope that makes sense. Any ideas or suggestions?

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PS I have a brother laser printer MFC unit that can do duplex printing and I have A4 or A5 copier or printer paper and no trimmer so I'm not into the idea of creating my own template to print my own. The paper isn't great but it's the sizing up for the print, lining up for cutting and then printing is kind of putting me off. I've done a few of my own printables but they are never great. I simply cannot cut straight with scissors and don't want to buy the kit I need.

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Namely a good trimmer / guillotine and a better hole punch than I have already would be needed. Also, no idea where to get the decent paper from. Mind you I've not looked that hard. I prefer to buy refills supplied to me already printed, cut and punched for the binder size I need.

Our son has been cycling from under 4yo and has quite some skills on a bike. 2 years ago he got back into cycling after a long break from it using his mum's hardtail. Then we got a full suspension xc bike with 120mm travel. Within a year he was doing stuff that bottomed that out and it was being shaken to bits.

So we got a 3 or 4 k enduro bike secondhand for a bargain price of just over one grand. However it's a no big old bike in size large for a 13yo who's about 5ft11in tall. He finds it's too heavy to control and turn quickly. His older giant stance was fun with sharp turns possible but not this enduro.

Now the enduro is the last model version of a GT force carbon pro bike. 10t-52t cassette with GX eagle derailleur. High link suspension. 170mm front and 169mm rear IIRC.

By all specs it's a very good enduro bike with modern design but it's a big old lug for a lighter weight 13yo. The size large is the right size for him but I think it's designed for an adult his size with more weight and strength to fully control it. It's not flickable and at his weight and perhaps strength he's not able to make as right turns as on his old bike.. So it's not as much fun for him.

He's been trying his much older mates Nukeproof downhill in alloy and says it feels lighter and he has more fun on it. He wants to do a direct swap. For me I think he's swayed by the 200mm travel, fox40 and apparently the upgraded brakes. It's still a heavy bike but I guess it's shorter wheelbase and the weight of the steel coil spring in the rear suspension, not air, low down I guess that's why a heavier bike feels lighter.

So my query is what's to do for our son? My thinking is not to allow the swap as technically his bike is better and worth more. Also dropping down to a 7 speed from the 12 speed will make it less useable at trail centres like the lakes ones we go to every so often and even riding local trails.

I think it's best to sell his enduro that was only bought 1 month ago secondhand. Then buy another bike for him that is better suited. What would that be?

He rides local trails, built up by generations of kids with shovels, etc. Also trail centres like Grizedale, Whinlatter, Gisburn and the 7 Stanes. Plus occasionally his mate takes him to Farmer John's too. This summer we are looking to take him to either Nevis or Welsh bike park. So he needs and wants decent travel suspension, but I think he needs a lighter bike too. He needs something that's capable of tight turns by someone who's perhaps too light for most enduro bikes due to being young but very, very tall for his age. He's taller than kids 3 years older I think.

I've used Google AI and I get Whyte 140, or g170/g190, trek one but not the ex fuel or a Spesh Stumpjumper. Anyone know what is a high travel, full suspension enduro style bike that's light enough for a say 60kg rider to control and turn tightly on. I think weight and higher centre of gravity is the issue.

I have read that taking a few spacers out from under the stem to above can lower my son's upper body more over the bars which can help with control. Also, cutting down the 800mm bars to 760mm or so can help someone lighter. However I just don't think it'll work for him. I think when you're close to 6 foot tall you really need closer to 75-80kg body weight to be fully able to flick it around. Certainly a big old enduro rig like the GT Force Carbon Pro in size large. It's a quality bike I think just too much for him to ride as well as he has the ability to, if that makes sense. He's fairly fearless, very fit, good riding skills and he's fast on trails if he has the right bike.

Recently because his GT was out of action we used hire bikes at a 7 Stanes centre. We got him a trek ex fuel full suspension. He didn't think it was better than his bike at first but after the first hour of riding it he actually started to enjoy it. I think the way it felt lighter and more manoeuvrable for him made him realise that his GT rig was not right for him. He got to ride his mates Nukeproof downhill and convinced himself is a better bike for him.

So any advice at all?

TL:DR Version:

My employer has an ND employee group that has set up a webinar session on PDA for next week. I'm curious to know a bit more about the topic.

I'm curious as to what everyone is running on their Brompton. As an occasional Brompton commuter (mixed with a road bike as my route is ok with either) I'm thinking it would be interesting to compare with others who have a similar use as I do. Namely I don't ride it for leisure only utilitarian commute to work via train and Brompton. A short ride at that too.

I'm 196cm tall and 92kg so I've got the telescopic seatpost. The top section is raised but about 2 possibly 3 inches at most and the bottom section is fully extended. I have the M bars and a 10kg front bag. My tyres are one marathon and one marathon plus tyre. A bog standard M6R bike.

So a quick AI Google suggested 95-100 PSI front and 100-105psi rear tyre pressure. I've really not checked what I've run at before but this morning I'll use a digital pump or a hand pump with a gauge to actually try these pressures out.

I guess this thread would need to get a bit personal to add value because tyre pressure is heavily influenced by the weight of the rider and luggage. So I don't expect anyone to post any information that they are uncomfortable about giving out in such a public space. Keep to your own safety limits with information please. I'm open with this information but that's just me.

So if anyone wants to share their tyre and pressure choices with any relevant information they're happy to share (tyre choices, luggage, to etc.). Thank you.

We're off to a trail centre with a bike hire. My son's full suspension is out of action, broken derailleur and whilst it came today, I can't for the life of me get the old cable threaded through so with no time left we'll hire. It's a trek fuel ex.

Now what about me and his mum?

My son is only 13yo but he's tall and athletic so he leaves us for dust. Not least because he's technically better and fearless.

I'm a roadie who's getting slowly into mountain biking via hire bikes.. So far the big standard hardtail with 100mm travel. I wonder whether to treat myself to a film suspension or electric MTB, full suspension or hardtail eMTB? I'm still learning the off-road stuff and feel limited with the 100mm travel hardtails as they get pushed around too much by the terrain.. I've read that more travel helps with that somewhere. That only comes with electric and / or full suspension. I just think that the way I ride I'd look daft on a FS bike.

So £25 half day hardtail,£40 FS or £60 for eMTB FS.

I'll probably do a red or blue trail on one of the 7 Stanes. I've done red at Whinlatter and blues are easy there. What bike would you recommend for me to hire? My partner, son's mother, is slow but she's done MTB races in the past and had ridden MTBs but mostly commuting on the roads of late. We both hold our son up but hey we can't help that.

Basically, as per the questions in the title.

Further information was that I bought it as a cover, dividers, discs (swapped for the next size up FOC by the seller), paper and planner sections. All from the same Etsy maker.

The paper was actually pretty good to write on and was something like 100 to 120gsm. It all looked like it would work well for me but it failed on one very basic level. The tabs at the holes folded not bent when removed and replaced a few times. A couple of times of taking them out the tabs would start to snap off. That meant it was useless for me.

How do you people find your paper holds up to the key benefits of the system? Namely the fact you can remove the pages and replace them repeatedly.

I wonder whether it's the paper I had, was it too stiff and heavy? I had an Aroma notebook from years ago but it's thinner paper and while the tabs bent they didn't fold or snap off. The only problem was they aren't easy to get in the UK and the sizes are non standard paper sizes.

So what is a good UK supplier of paper and professional looking planning / diary sections? Should I reconsider using a discbound again with a different source for the infills?

Has anyone from the UK bought online from afth based in Harrogate? My usual, good, online retailers seem to have less range in pens I am looking at these days so considering elsewhere.

I've never heard of them before but they seem to have a good selection of Jetstream pens just as I'm thinking of getting a 4+1. I like the grip diameter of the Jetstream 3 but want a mech pencil too. So the 4+1 seems like a good idea.

Before I go to a new online retailer I admit I like to find out about their reputation. Please feel free to DM me to take it offline if appropriate. To keep this kind of neutral or positive. I don't think it's best for one negative experience to be public unless it's the norm. However I do want to know.

Thank you.

PS what 4+1 Jetstream do you guys rate most?

I'm thinking I prefer something with a functional grip like the Jetstream 3 I have with it's rubber grip area. The malt and wooden grip pens look nice but I'm thinking wood isn't as grippy as rubber. I think a good and grippy surface at the grip area means less grip pressure is needed = longer writing without getting tired hands.