u/Charming-Fall-2221

Its something Ive come across today, and something my colleague has come across several times before.

Fitted a new clutch and flywheel, timed up, in the dowels, friction plate is facing the correct way, yet it won't go into gear, have bled it through to have the same issue.

My colleague mentioned after putting in a 6th clutch ( being a valeo) it finally went into gear. We aren't fitting cheap parts, in this instance we've fitted a sachs clutch kit.

Anyone have any ideas why they do this?

May be slightly unrelated but I cant really find any other subreddits which could help

I may be moving from a light vehicle mechanic role to 2 stroke (chainsaws, strimmers, lawn mowers etc etc)

Im aware alot of my tools will be way bigger that what I need

This is rhe following list of tools I have come up with that I would think be what I need

3/8 sockets set shallow and deep

Spanners 8-19 ratchetting and non-ratchetting

Small pry bar

Screwdrivers (various types and sizes)

Spark plug sockets

3/8 extensions

Small compression tester

Pliers/ wire cutters/ mole grips

Small electrical tester

Multimeter

Anything else be advisable or is there anything in my list which isn't necessary?

I may be moving from a light vehicle mechanic role to 2 stroke (chainsaws, strimmers, lawn mowers etc etc)

Im aware alot of my tools will be way bigger that what I need

This is rhe following list of tools I have come up with that I would think be what I need

3/8 sockets set shallow and deep

Spanners 8-19 ratchetting and non-ratchetting

Small pry bar

Screwdrivers (various types and sizes)

Spark plug sockets

3/8 extensions

Small compression tester

Pliers/ wire cutters/ mole grips

Small electrical tester

Multimeter

Anything else be advisable or is there anything in my list which isn't necessary?

I have a 2007 Hyundai Getz 1.1 GSI, got it off of my aunt.

It has a VERY high biting point, to the point where by the time the clutch is anywhere near engaged, the pedal is practically at the top.

Spoken to my aunt and apparently it had a clutch not that long ago and that she took the car back to the garage for the same issue and was told theres nothing to worry about.

Important to know that system is hydraulic and not cable so adjusting the cable isnt a choice, and I cant see bleeding the system doing much to help.

Are they known for a relatively high biting point?

Im a mechanic so worst case scenario its a £40 clutch kit with no dual mass to worry about, and a couple house work on the weekend.

Just thought Id get a second opinion before sorting it.

TIA

Had a 2009 Astra K in today for a front coil spring, never hsd the pleasure of doing one before.

Tool a look at the plastic clips that hold the top mount to the chasis, and turns out they do just that, I hadn't realised, I thought they were spacers, was quite lucky my hand wasnt taken off by the spring 🤣

Anyway refitting the topmount back to the chasis, built everything back up, with the vehicle being completely on the ground those plastic clips still werent tight (a new pair of them) and were spinning around tbe top mount, no up or down place, no concerning noises when steering, took it for a road test and couldn't hesr any noises.

Is this something that's normal with these clips? Or something I need to rectify before returning to the customer?

Please remove if post is not allowed

I've misplaced my licence, unable to find it as of yet, currently still in the process of searching.

Had a brief look at the process of obtaining a new one, issue, I do not currently have any other forms of valid ID to prove my identity, and attempts to confirm my identity via bank details have failed.

I appreciate this might not be the best subreddit to ask the question on but please if any of you have had similar experiences and know any ways around it, the help is highly appreciated.

TIA👋

Im currently doing an apprenticeship for my level 2 light vehicle maintainance, currently unable to do my level 3 due to not passing maths and with the college not running a day release essensial skills Im unable to achieve the pass grade for my maths.

Im aware I would still receive traing through the RAF, however would I be able to join without the C in my maths with the level 2 light vehicle qualification, or would I have to gain my C in maths aswell ( and whilst I'm at it, my level 3 qualification), in order join as a mechanical technician?

TIA

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Im aware its not a motorcycle but its the closest page I could find that might have some insight.

At my workplace we've got a suzuki LT50 as a bit of an off and on project.

It came in as a non starter, refueled it, replaced the spark plug, made some minor wiring repairs, fitted a new carb.

Prior to fitting the new carb it was briefly running, we just couldn't get it to idle, we had some issues with fuel leaks however after replacing the damaged pipes we had no futher issues with fuel leaking.

Then it wouldn't start, found the old carb needed replacing, as stated we did that, managed to get it started briefly with the new carb, only for a brief couple of seconds though, found that it struggled to start when it was on the ground completely, so we jacked it up on the back axle, again it would run for a couple of seconds then shut off.

We have fuel flow (mixed with the correct amount of 2 stroke oil), we have spark, we have air, and we have compression.

In theory it should run, I dont want to go stripping it down futher into the internals, as im not entirely convinced there's any issues there, and I'd want to do my research into stripping it down first, if that's even necessary.

Any pointers or common faults that would be worth checking over again?

Thanks in advance